How much castor to add to Coolpower 15% for my OS two-strokers?
09-14-2021, 08:42 PM
#1
How much castor to add to Coolpower 15% for my OS two-strokers?
My local supplier has ran out of Omega 15% fuel which I normally use for all my OS two-stokers. I can only get Coolpower 15%, typically used for helis. However, I still have a few bottles of Klotz Benol lying in my workshop. Although they are about ten years old, they still smell and look perfect with no sedimentation. I guess they are still safe to use. The question is how much castor should I add to each bottle of Coolpower 15%? In any case, I would have to retune my engines and hope the idling will be still good. Thanks for all the inputs in advance!
09-15-2021, 02:19 AM
#2
The Cool Power is 17% oil content I believe, so adding at least 3% Benol would be good, however I would go up to about 22% total oil just because I don’t trust those heavy synthetic fuels (I have had problems with it in the past). Omega fuel is a 70/30 blend of synthetic/castor respectively. Adding 5oz of castor to 17% fuel gives a touch over 20% oil and 8oz gives you about 21.8% total oil. If you have a full gallon and you’re adding oil to it, you need another jug. I’ve done this task myself, and I’ve measured out half a gallon and added half the oil to each jug and shook it up. Now top up one jug full and burn the partial jug first. I use a scale to measure my oil - I measure the weight of 1oz of oil to verify the weight of the oil (I use a gram measurement as it’s more accurate) and split the oil volume between the two half full jugs. It sounds more complicated to explain it than it is to actually do it. This drops the nitro content down to about 14.1% for what it’s worth.
09-15-2021, 04:51 AM
#3
Sorry, I should have mentioned that it is the Coolpower MV 15% which contains 18% oil. Probably I should add at least 3 ounces just to make it a tad over 20% oil? For my Saito's, I am adding 2 ounces per gallon of Coolpower MV 4-stroke 15%.
Last edited by rajul; 09-16-2021 at 03:04 AM.
09-16-2021, 02:50 AM
#4
Because synthetic oil has such a tendency to promote rust and corrosion, I’d go as heavy on castor as your comfortable with. But that’s just me. Get your oil up to 20% or better and go fly. Just make sure you run your engine dry and after run lube it well.
I run 20% castor in my Enya 4-strokes which are very rust prone in the cambox and when I open my cam box, it’s literally full of oil. It just pours out. Not a speck of rust inside, and I run most of my engines on airboats over water. After 1 rusted piston ring (from sitting overnight), I stopped using synthetic oil in my airboat fuel.
I run 20% castor in my Enya 4-strokes which are very rust prone in the cambox and when I open my cam box, it’s literally full of oil. It just pours out. Not a speck of rust inside, and I run most of my engines on airboats over water. After 1 rusted piston ring (from sitting overnight), I stopped using synthetic oil in my airboat fuel.
09-16-2021, 03:14 AM
#5
Yup, I always use after run oil (air tool oil) after every flying session. I checked my old stock of Klotz Benol, about ten years old, and it seems like the color and smell are still normal and no sedimentation at all. They were stored in a cool place. Do you think its ok to use? I know that medical castor oil can go rancid but I suppose that the Klotz Benol has been chemically stabilized.
09-18-2021, 09:16 AM
#10
Cool Power 15% is quite popular here everyone seems to run it straight from the jug no additional oil and they seem to have no problem at all. The green jug to be clear which my understanding is pure synthetic is the one I am talking about. I run Wildcat pure synthetic no additional oil except those engines that are bushed then a couple of oz of caster just in case. The rep from Wildcat explained to me that 15% nitro and 18% synthetic is the same be it called 2 stroke, 4 stroke or heli fuel. The only specific 20/20 fuel was labeled YS fuel and it to was all synthetic. In my YS engines I stopped buying the more expensive YS fuel and have been running just 15% pure synthetic for years now with nary a problem. Like the guy from Wildcat said if its the same nitro content and oil type and content its the same fuel no mater what the label. The name is simply a marketing tool.
10-01-2021, 05:32 AM
#12
If it is a plain bearing engine you should add the castor as Q suggests and use the after-run oil. Simple air tool oil works great. For ball bearing engines they can run less total oil and for typical RC flying could go straight from jug but use the after-run oil liberally. If you are running them flat out add the castor it will help cool the engine slightly and prevent the nickel from peeling.
Best, DennisT
Best, DennisT
10-02-2021, 04:23 AM
#13
Castor oil won’t prevent OS’s liners from peeling. Many think it does, but it cannot prevent a mechanical manufacturing failure and design flaw. Sometimes it happens (the peeling) and sometimes it doesn’t.
10-05-2021, 04:56 AM
#14
Best, DennisT
The following users liked this post:
Propworn (10-25-2021)
10-05-2021, 02:58 PM
#15
Contrary to popular belief, the spent oil carries away very little heat. It doesn’t have the thermal capacity to do so in such minuscule quantities (micro droplets). Sorry to burst the bubble. You can control engine heat better via fuel mixture strength.
10-21-2021, 10:35 AM
#16
That minimum, for glow fourstrokes, is around 10~12%, a bit depending on engine size and Nitro content.
10-26-2021, 04:10 AM
#18
It is more peaceful here, becaus, basically, this place seems to be a little bit dead... Apparently people need the excitement of trolling... Personally I could totally do without that, but a bit more traffic would be seriously welcome.
11-02-2021, 02:55 PM
#19
It’s nice here. I’ve been here for a long long time.
