After-run oil question
 

I have been using Hobbico after-run oil religiously in my OS 46 for the past year and recently discovered, upon dis-assembly of the engine, that there is significant corrosion present. Am I doing something wrong? Is this particular oil not so great? Are there better after-run oils commercially available?

RE: After-run oil question
 

It is always best to run the engine dry at the end of your flying session. Just pull off or pinch the fuel line with it running and then keep starting it untill it will not fire any longer. This practice alone will help a great deal in reducing the corrosion / rust inside an engine. Then add your after run oil.

I have found that hobbico after run oil is nothing but marvels mystery oil and that stuff is not intended to be a rust/ corrosion inhibitor. My personal favorites are Air Tool oil (any brand) or Rislone engine treatment. Both can be found at any car parts store or even walmart. If you need an all synthetic after run oil if you are running a YS or other engine with silicone parts, the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (the stuff made in Germany, not the rest of the syntec line) found at AutoZone is an excellent choice as is Red Line Motor oil.

RE: After-run oil question
 

Dr. Nitro, I did a little digging to find out more about Castrol Syntec and found this at the Amsoil web site:
"Recently, Mobil accused Castrol of reformulating its synthetic by substituting other basestocks in place of its synthetic polyaphaolefins (PAO's). Castrol Syntec is a hydrocracked oil. That's right, Castrol has replaced the PAO synthetic base stock with hydroisomerized petroleum base stock"
If true, this doesn't sound like an oil I'd use in my YS.
Edited to add: A little more digging turned up the fact that the German made Syntec might be a different formula. The MSDS on Castrol Syntec 0W30 lables it a "synthetic hydrocarbon".

RE: After-run oil question
 

Tim,
The standard Castrol Syntec (not German Castrol) is primarily made up of what the lubricants industry refers to as Group III basestocks, Group III basestocks are hydrocracked from petroluem basestocks and are generally recognized as "synthetics" by the lubricant industry. Teh German Castrol Syntec, currently only available here in the US in 0W-30 weight, is an Ester basestock. These basestocks are a "Group V" basestock and are a step above the PAO's which are "Group IV". PAO's (Gp IV) and Esters (Gp V) are "synthetic".
Any Group IV or V type oil should be just fine in your YS engine. Redline motor oils are mostly Group V as well, Mobil 1 has traditionally been Gp IV and I have no idea what Amsoil is.

RE: After-run oil question
 

Well I'll be hydroisomerized. Seriously though Fuelman, thanks for the info. I'll go ahead and try the German Syntec in my YS.

RE: After-run oil question
 

I am new to the world of RC Airplanes. I have been using Omega 10% Caster/Synethitic Fuel and on the label it reads DO NOT USE AFTER RUN OILS! However, I have been told be friends that I should use AFTER RUN OIL. Which is right. I want to protect the engine from rust can corrosion.

Rick

RE: After-run oil question
 

If you are running a non pumped engine (not YS engines) then any air tool oil will do or Rislone engine treatment. Both can be found in Walmart and a whole quart is usually less than that little bottle of the hobbico stuff that Dr Nitro suggests is Marvels Mystery oil.
Make sure you run your engine dry at the end of the days flying or driving and squirt in a good amount and spin the engine over to distribute the lube. The products listed work very very well and have been proven over many years by many modelers.

RE: After-run oil question
 

As another precaution Rick, I hold the nose up and drain all the oil out of the muffler. This keeps the acids formed by combustion from running back through an open exhaust port or valve and into the engine. I don't know for sure how bad this is, but why take a chance?

RE: After-run oil question
 

As stated in the thread, make sure you run the engine dry. Morgan fuels allege that they have inhibitors in their fuels. My take is to run her dry and them pump some after run oil into the intake. Then turn over the engine with your starter to spread it all around.

I use Rislone and ATF 50/50 mix as an after run oil.

Cheers,

Chip

RE: After-run oil question
 

All of these built-in "corrosion inhibitors" are what keep the bearing shops in business.

Take the other guys advice. Run the engine dry, and then oil it up at the end of the day. Takes only a minute and saves expense and headaches later.

RE: After-run oil question
 

Marvel Mystery oil works just fine as does marvel airtool oil. I mix Mystery oil 50/50 with ATF. My bearings never rust. Of course you have to get the fuel residue out of the engine. That's what rusts everything. You can add oil to acid but now you have diluted acid.

RE: After-run oil question
 

Hello guys,

One quick question, can I use ATF? Is 20W50 auto engine oil also useable? I have a Caliber 30 Heli and I have installed a air filter on it. Its really hard to get to the Carbeurator in it without unmounting the engine. Is there any other way to get this stuff in the engine after using it? I dunno where to find Risoline in UAE.

Thanks in advance,

Falconeer.

RE: After-run oil question
 

You can use the ATF or 20W-50, no problem.

With the air filter installed, it would probably be easier to inject it via a syrange or something similar into the carb fuel inlet nipple. If you can not get to the carb fuel nipple easy, then add a "T" somewhere between the carb and fuel tank and just pinch off the tank side when you inject the oil into the line. Of course you must cap off the part of the "T" you inject oil into when trying to run the engine. You could also use it to refuel if you pinch off the carb side of the "T".

Keep in mind that you must have the carb throttle set to wide open or full throttle for the oil to get into the engine and then you can spin it over with a starter gently so you do not hydrolock it.

RE: After-run oil question
 

After an extended search for a suitable after-run oil for my YS, I finally found some Red Line 75W90. The Red Line web site states that this is an ester based oil, so it should be fine. There is a definite smell of molybdenum disulfide, so as a precaution I'm soaking a piece of silicone tubing to check for swelling. If the Red Line passes this test, I'll try it in the YS.

RE: After-run oil question
 

Thanks Fuelman. I will also use the ATF once in a while, I always keep both these in my car. The T idea is good. thanks again.

Falconeer.

RE: After-run oil question
 

Tim C,
The Red Line 75w90 is a gear oil designed for rear ends and some manual transmisions. The funny rotton egg type smell is the different sulphates and phosphates that are extreme pressure additives. How those will react to silicone I am not sure since their standard motor oil does not contain them. The different sulphates will attack yellow metals such as brass and bronze so keep an eye on your rod bushings.
I guess you could not find Red Line motor oil or German Castrol motor oil which would be a good after run.

RE: After-run oil question
 

No Fuelman, no luck on Red Line motor oil or German Syntec. I tried about 10 different auto parts and 2 speed shops. The Red Line web site said the danger to brass and bronze was minimal if I remember right from reading the tech sheet. I've added some brass screws to the test tube with the silicone tubing. I may just hold off until I can find the motor oil.

RE: After-run oil question
 

Jr: I don't think the problem is at all the type of after-run oil that is ran, but rather the method used in applying the oil at the end of a flying session. I have used the marvel mystery oil since 1984 and I have never had to deal with rust or corrosion. In fact, I am still flying three engines purchased in 1984.
I put my oil in an old style oil can which has fuel tubing attached to the spout at the end of the squeeze trigger pump. After disconecting fuel line and running engine until no more nitro or methane ignites, I attach the fuel line from the oil can to the fuel nipple of engine. I then squeeze trigger pump of oil can until the marvel mystery oil just enters the fuel nipple of engine. I then turn over engine of plane or heli with starter drawing the oil into the engine. I let the starter run until I see a very light smoke exit the muffler. This process ensures that the oil distributed through out the entire engine. Hope my two cents helps, good luck.

RE: After-run oil question
 

Thanks, RevGQ. This sounds like fine advice. I've always simply squirted a good shot of the after-run oil directly into the carb and cranked the engine w/ the starter motor for a couple seconds, after having run the engine dry of fuel. Your method seems more thorough....I'll give it a try.

RE: After-run oil question
 

Squirting the oil directly into the carb does a much better job. Going through the fuel nipple and needle valve puts very little into the engine. The biggest reason RevGQ doesn't have rust problems is he runs the engine dry. Another little item; There is NO methane in our fuel. Methane is a gas. As a matter of fact it's the main constituent of natural gas. Our fuel is METHANOL (the simplest alcohol) lubricant, and NITROMETHANE a complex nitroparafin.

Pulling the fuel line from a two cycle engine and letting run dry then trying to start it until it quits popping is the best way to make sure your bearings don't rust. A good shot of oil down the carb or into the cylinder guarantees they will last a long time.

RE: After-run oil question
 

I have an oil can with fuel tubbing attached at the nipple. I simply disconnect the fuel line at the filter running from tank to carb nipple, squeeze trigger until a bit of marvel mystery oil enters the carb, and turn the engine over with my starter until a lite smoke emerges from the exhaust.

RE: After-run oil question
 

marvel mystry oil IS THE BEST for after run oil

RE: After-run oil question
 

my uncle has been flying rc airplanes for 55 years and has been using it and he said that it works great it also what i use and i get great resaluts NO RUST !!!!!!!!

RE: After-run oil question
 

The problem with Marvel Mystry oil is in long term storage. Over time the volatiles evaporate a leave behind a hard red crud. I like the smell of Marvel Mystry oil, and sometime use it; however, for long term storage I like Rislone. A Risloned engine will be free and ready to run after 20 years in the shop drawer.

RE: After-run oil question
 

Which Rislone oil would you recommend? I just popped on to the Bar's/Rislone products website and there are a number of oils.