DarkFire989

That tuck is WIDE![X(]

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

My picture host site must block international IP addresses...

Lars from Norway

Much possible. I quoted one of your posts and cut out the URL for the pic, and tried to open it in a new window. But i got a message that the connection to the server was broken due to using too long time loading it. Or something. I don't know how to translate that error message as i got it norwegian. Too bad! Guess it is a lot of nice pics here[]

racetruck

Have fun with the new rampage if you vent the gear cover the gears hold up good

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

Good information, thanks. I added the decals and happened to have a Chevy Bowtie from a 1/10 scale body that fit VERY nicely.

Here is a picture for Lars!

Lars from Norway

Ah,thanks! Nice of you Looks very nice!

traxxas_guru

nice man!
your tempting me to sell my baja and get one!

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

Well, let me put it through its paces first and get back to you on that. We already know the 5B/T platform is just plain badass. At best, this truck can be as good as the Baja platform, but with 4wd.

I am hopeful at this point. I am doing all of the prerun stuff tonight.

traxxas_guru

break it in and tell us how it does, videos would be awesome!

willclark77

My Feedback: (2)

Why couldn't you have done this three weeks ago before I spent all my rc funds on a t, two speed, tires, etc?!?!    I didn't consider the Rampage seriously because of the lack of info out there.  I can't wait to see how this thread/review unfolds and know you'll give some unbiased opinions.  It's been great so far. 

redfisher1974

5 stars for a good job so far.

mooman007uk

There's many threads on RRF about bracing the chassis. lots of different ideas from full cage to struts...the chassis flexes in the middle where the gear side cut out begins; if your just mildly running then no biggie but if you want to butcher your pig then it needs some added minerals
here's what i did for a brace

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks for the picture....

Well, the prerun checklist has expanded to a full blown tear down and rebuild. I saw that there was no threadlock on any metal to metal fasteners upon my initial inspection, so I figured it is probably fair to assume that a rebuild is in order before running. It is a good opportunity for me to get familiar with the truck and make sure it is as strong as possible for its first run.

Upon multiple suggestions, I drilled cooling holes in the center transmission gear cover. I am going to somehow adhere some fine wire mesh on the inside of the cover to help filter what goes in the cover while still letting the hot air out.



I do have my first problem. One of the countersunk fasteners on the bottom of the chassis was overtorqued from the factory; I could tell because the hex corners on the screw head were slightly flared. There was just too much load on it, and the screw stripped with relative ease as I tried to carefully back it out. I ended up having to drill the head off, and now I have to fish this broken fastener out somehow. I will be contacting Redcat for a replacement, but I am hoping to salvage this.



I am a little dissatisfied with the included hex wrenches. They are not up to the task of wrenching on a 1/5 scale. I tried to use them and just see if they were any good, and they aren't. Redcat Racing should either include decent tools like the HPI 5th scale kits or not pack tools at all. It reflects poorly on the kit when the tools are of poor quality when the tools are optional anyway.

The included fasteners appear to be pretty weak throughout. I noted how easily the overtorqued screw drilled out. It drilled more like aluminum than steel. I also noticed that some of the hex fastener hex corners flared as I simply removed the screws with good tools.

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

Ok, ok, the full prerun teardown and rebuild is done. besides a lack of threadlock on most of the metal to metal fasteners (specifically grub screws for differential outdrives and dogbones), I am happy to say that there were no more issues as I went through the truck and she is reassembled.

Here is the front differential. For comparison, I photographed it next to a 1/8 truggy differential. This is a big dude! The diff housings are plastic. The gears are non-helical cut. The pinion gear is hex cut on the end which is great; that gives the outdrive a large surface to distribute the load of the engine and drivetrain strain. There was no threadlock on the grubs.

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

Here is the front and rear CVD's. I did a few things to these. I locktited the grub screws holding the dogbones in (shown below). Also, these trucks don't have a captured CVD pin, so the CVD pin is subject to falling out on the track... I put a slice of heat shrink tubing on each CVD to encourage the dogbones to stay put. Cheap insurance. For comparison, that is a 1/8 scale buggy CVD at the top of this picture! BEEFY stuff, huh?

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

Here are the shocks. These don't have a progressive spring or 2-stage progressive setup like the 5Bs. They appear to be nice units. I didn't rebuild them. They aren't leaking. That is an 1/8 buggy rear shock for comparison.

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

I removed the stock questionable air filter. The stock air filter consists of an outer stage disc (dry) and an oiled inner stage disc. NOTE: the inner disc wasn't oiled from the factory. I replaced the airfilter with the HPI 5B setup. It bolts right up with only one easy modification necessary to fit. You can see where I moved the rollbar crossmember forward a bit to clear the HPI air filter. I don't think this will have any impact on the cage reliability, especially since it sits under a huge body.



I also added the 5T can to get a little more boost out of the engine. I WANTED to add the Redcat Racing tuned pipe that I got, BUT the pipe didn't come with the right size fasteners- they were too long! So, I will have to get the right size fasteners to mount that up.



I also bolted up a high torque metal gear JR650M servo for throttle/braking details and added a Spektrum 300 2.4GHz receiver. I only need the proper servo horn for the JR servo to finish the build. I did start the motor and it cranked right up and seemed to have a lot of power.

mooman007uk

at least they stopped using red lock tight..when I got my V1 there were random screws that had red loctite on them (some did but most had nothing)and i had to get the dremel out to a couple during my initial pre run strip down[X(]
you'll find 5B springs fit the shocks, the ramtech 20% stiffer springs work well...the truck is heavy so benefits from heavier springs an oil.
make sure you pull the gauze out the exhaust can and lose that long stinger while you're running the can as it kills rpm and power

Sherv

My Feedback: (1)

I have to say the Rampage looks much better than the last time I took a look at it when I was in the market for an MT. Maybe in the distant future I'll pick one up. Kudos for the great pictures, description, and details.

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

I have one more rounds of mods going in this week before I give it the field treatment:

[ul][*]Homemade braces to stiffen the shock towers. Based on my experience, I just don't think (this is opinion mind you, not fact) that there is enough bracing on the shock towers from the differential cases. The shock towers are tall, and although the diff cases look stout, I think there might be too much leverage on the diff case coming from the tower. Shock towers are subject to a lot of strain. I will post pics when I add the braces.
[*]I am going to get the Redcat tuned pipe on there after I get the correct hardware.
[*]I ordered few parts from rampagehopups.com (which shipped within 12 hours of my order, very nice):

Metal transmission gears. The stock plastic gears MAY hold up fine, but I build my trucks to take punishment before I put them through their paces.



Aluminum center transmission mount. The stock plastic transmission mount is underdesigned IMO (again, prerun opinion here, it MAY work fine). This stock plastic transmission mount is expected to a) provide a crucial anchor point for the engine mounting, set alignment for the clutchbell to the engine, and ensure proper alignment of the four transmission gears AND center differential WHILE sustaining the heat generated from the engine, clutch and drivetrain. In my humble opinion, the stock plastic piece is underdesigned based on it being a cornerstone of the truck.


[*]I am going to get the HPI 8,000RPM clutch springs to let the engine build up a little more steam before engaging the clutchbell.



[/ul]

noyb98098

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Dale - I wouldnt get that redcat pipe, mine broke after 2 tanks. I'd get this one http://www.largescalerc.com/CPITuned...atRampage.aspx and the redcat metal gears werent holding up for me either so I got these

Ebay item ID: 160497879890 . Rob use to make the 25-25 gears but stopped, I've been using them for almost 2 years now and they STILL show no wear, these gears are of the same quality. I've ran 7 tanks on them and they've yet to show any signs or wearing.

(Edited for link length) - Dale

Obeast44

I agree the Ramtech 25s are worth their weight in gold!

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

So you are telling me that the gears I ordered are no bueno then? Bummer....

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

I did question the strength of that pipe, it is a lightweight for sure. I will probably do an X-Can, I have had great luck with those! In the meantime, I will just run the 5T manifold since it is supposed to breathe ok.

mooman007uk

I've had the himoto 35/25 steel gears for 18mths and they still look new, in the first batch some unhardened ones got thru and wore out like they were made of chocolate[X(] it was a crap shoot i guess. Others found the gears bound up, one guy i know tried them in the plastic gear carrier and they were tight, he switched to an alloy plate and all was good...
one thing I've found is not to over tighten the layshaft nut, the alloy square the 2 gears sit on often runs out of centre a tad...I've had loads of them and not one was true, if you snug the nut up, even though the bearing might be smooth the gear will run slightly off and bind which will get real hot and wear out if you try running it...back the nut off 1/3 turn or so so the gear and square can wobble slightly on the shaft..mine will bind even now if the nut is too tight. make sure you use plently of loctite on the nyloc nut as well or it'll back off as it's not cinched down