Buggy set up?
10-28-2003, 03:42 PM
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RE: Buggy set up?
good questions....as far as camber i am not sure but caster is around 4 degrees not sure there alo.....the front wheel on my leopard race looks like this \ / so i beleive there is about 2 degree on each side?
for shock oil i read that you need at least 1000 weight like the same they use in buggys diffs....and you go higher for more dampening......
perhaps someone with more experience than me will answer all of your questions as i am on testing grounds still......
for shock oil i read that you need at least 1000 weight like the same they use in buggys diffs....and you go higher for more dampening......
perhaps someone with more experience than me will answer all of your questions as i am on testing grounds still......
10-29-2003, 07:22 AM
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RE: Buggy set up?
Maybe I can help:
There is a big difference in set-up if the Buggy is used for driving On- or Offroad.
On road: For onroad it is neccessary that you lower the car as much as possible( 10/12mm)
You need strong springs with heavy weight oil, the thickness of the oil depends on what sort of pistons you are using (the alloy pistons have more holes than the original plastic ones) and wich springs you are using. A thicker spring needs thicker oil.
If you use the original red shockabsorbers you could use thick oil at the back(3000) and thinner oil at the front(2000).
At the back 2 degrees toe in and about 1 degree camber,this means that if you look from the back of the car the wheels are standing like this /^\
At the front you need 0 degrees camber and about 2 degrees toe-out and , this means that if you look from the back of the car the wheels ar standing like this \^/
for onroad the best tires are the Wide M1 tires at the rear and the normal M1 tires at the front.
The use of an anti roll bar on the rear will make the car more direct, but the thicker the roll bar the more wheel spin you'll get (out of corners). If you'll place an anti roll bar at the front you'll get more grip at the rear.
Off road: For off road it is also neccessary to lower the car as much as possible but this depends on the track: how bumpy,large jumps?
Because every time the bottom of the car touches the track it will slow the car down and this is something we don't want.
A small help is to put a small piece of fuel hose around the piston rod of the schock absorbers to prevent the car from hitting the track.
You'll need to give the car as much suspension travel as possible, the weight of the oil is 1000 at the back and 500 at the front.
We use the progressive springs from Krikke racing Parts Off-Road (www.krikke.net) krp 157 2,0 at the back and krp 159 2,2 at front.
This works much better then the original FG ones. The set-up at the back is the same as the onroad setup but at the front about 4 degrees toe out and 2 degrees camber.
The caster as much as possible to make the car "easy going" because the car intends to overstear standard.
A set-up is a personal thing, you can use this standard set-up and work from here, make your own adjustments to get the set-up that suits you.
Ron
There is a big difference in set-up if the Buggy is used for driving On- or Offroad.
On road: For onroad it is neccessary that you lower the car as much as possible( 10/12mm)
You need strong springs with heavy weight oil, the thickness of the oil depends on what sort of pistons you are using (the alloy pistons have more holes than the original plastic ones) and wich springs you are using. A thicker spring needs thicker oil.
If you use the original red shockabsorbers you could use thick oil at the back(3000) and thinner oil at the front(2000).
At the back 2 degrees toe in and about 1 degree camber,this means that if you look from the back of the car the wheels are standing like this /^\
At the front you need 0 degrees camber and about 2 degrees toe-out and , this means that if you look from the back of the car the wheels ar standing like this \^/
for onroad the best tires are the Wide M1 tires at the rear and the normal M1 tires at the front.
The use of an anti roll bar on the rear will make the car more direct, but the thicker the roll bar the more wheel spin you'll get (out of corners). If you'll place an anti roll bar at the front you'll get more grip at the rear.
Off road: For off road it is also neccessary to lower the car as much as possible but this depends on the track: how bumpy,large jumps?
Because every time the bottom of the car touches the track it will slow the car down and this is something we don't want.
A small help is to put a small piece of fuel hose around the piston rod of the schock absorbers to prevent the car from hitting the track.
You'll need to give the car as much suspension travel as possible, the weight of the oil is 1000 at the back and 500 at the front.
We use the progressive springs from Krikke racing Parts Off-Road (www.krikke.net) krp 157 2,0 at the back and krp 159 2,2 at front.
This works much better then the original FG ones. The set-up at the back is the same as the onroad setup but at the front about 4 degrees toe out and 2 degrees camber.
The caster as much as possible to make the car "easy going" because the car intends to overstear standard.
A set-up is a personal thing, you can use this standard set-up and work from here, make your own adjustments to get the set-up that suits you.
Ron
10-30-2003, 01:49 AM
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RE: Buggy set up?
Ron,
Thanks for the input.
I am new to the 1/6 scale & appreciate all the input I can get.
The toe out at the front has me baffled.
Paul.
Thanks for the input.
I am new to the 1/6 scale & appreciate all the input I can get.
The toe out at the front has me baffled.
Paul.
