kiora

Hi all, what do I need to to buy to fit an adjustable diff to a marder. How do the drive cups come out of my original diff? I have the adjustable diff the ridge around it seems to large in diameter to fit. Any advice well appreciated.


thanks
col.

FGUK

It's never that easy is it..........

As someone who just had all the problems (prefer to think of them as challenges!) that you'll encounter...........

Here's how I did it........

Here the diff I bought, you'll hear conflicting prices quoted, I'm happy with mine and think it was worth the money (cost a lot!)



You'll notice the collar, and how it won't fit with the standard diff risers (side bits) because it would need a groove cut out of the chassis......

Don't cut your chassis up!!! [X(] There's an easy way..........

You'll also need..........



The 2 block bits that raise the whole diff assembly up, I'm hoping Steffen (Chevyman De) will be along shortly to correct my terminology!

I found this to be the best way around the problem, I've seen Carbon Fibre diff raisers but not sure how long they'd last, I've also seen that HobbyTek do steel ones which might be more suitable for Off Road use.

Last shot, show's why I needed to change my diff!



Any probs don't hesitate to ask............ If you trust me to answer correctly!?

ammdrew

part number 4478

FGUK

I'm glad someone's awake!

kiora

cool, thanks for the quick replys, I'll have to see what I can knock up tommorow at work.

Prepare for more questions

col.

chevyman_de

FGUK is correct, you have to lift the diffrerential like it's done in the onroad cars. There are basically four versions of the raiser blocks:
- The standard plastic one as used in the Leopard and the sportsline sedans. Avoid this, as there's no way to torque down the bolts of the lower a-arms correctly with them. The bolts will loosen or bend too easily. Even though it's inexpensive, it's the only version I would never use.
- The alloy version. Ok to buy. May be bent after a very hard impact, but "very" is the keyword here.
- The carbon version. Ok to buy, but rather expensive. For the weight conscious onroad driver and those who like the look of carbon.
- The steel version. Almost indestructible and my personal favorite. It ain't fancy, but it surely gets the job done.

When you lift the differential you'll need a 9 mm spacer between the rear axle brace (that piece of aluminum on top of the differential carriers) and the large engine mount. And a longer bolt of course.

The drive cups have a spline, so you can pull them out without any tools.
If you can't do so, you may have a rather old version, where the drive cups are secured to the bevel gears with two grub screws per gear inside the differential. Then, in case your new differential is complete with internals, you will have to get new drive cups. If you only got a housing upgrade you can fit the internals from an old version diff into the new one. The parts are interchangeable.

FGUK

I knew I'd forgotten something!!! The diff outputs! Thank you Steffen.

Now on to a touchy subject............

To grease or not to grease, I've tried before to get a definitive answer on this, as yet I haven't had one, so I squirted some grease in anyway!

Any answers???

chevyman_de

Yes, grease. As with real cars, even LSDs have to be lubricated. But you have to stay away from grease with teflon or molykote, as this will greatly reduce the limiting effect. And don't fill the complete housing with grease, as you could do with an open diff. Don't forget to grease the bearings from the output shafts as well.

FGUK

Here you go!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...935336325&rd=1

kiora

Cheers , I've already got my eye on them. Ive knocked up something at work to try out over the weekend.

col.