TheFgMan01

Im in the same boat actually, i hit a small tree messing around in the grass and two bolts are broken off and stuck inside my left alloy hub. i managed to get one bolt out but the other is in there good and now requires buying another set of Fg alloy upright [] i hope you can get those out. Are they long enough to grip with a small pair of needle nose plyers?

Dave ESPI

I'm getting a reverse threaded drill bit and it will pull the bolts out once I grind them smooth with the dremel tool.

EDIT: yeah fgman, it works great provided the bolt isn't bent internaly in the plastic bulkhead, but with the waythese bolts are sheared off, I think it will work just fine

TheFgMan01

i didnt even think about that. im going to steal your idea so i dont have to buy an upright lol

Dave ESPI

FGman, it DEFINATELY is the servo. I am having NO-LOAD responses where it just quits also after a few R/L R/L R/L R.......... then nothing and I can move the servo back center with my bare hands, but cant turn it LEFT past center. I'm thinking there is a missing tooth or something. I'm going to have to entirely strip down the radio tray to check the servo... ARGH ! [sm=punching.gif][sm=thumbs_down.gif]

I"M REPLACING THE SERVO. Perhaps a heavier duty metal gear one is on the market ?

I picked up the reverse thread taps at Home Depot for like 3.00 each. I got the BLACKAND DECKER Screw extractor Kit # 1 and # 2. the # 1 is the smaller and should work on the 5 mm bolts. I'll post a pic if it does

EDIT: OK, well I have to say the reverse tap of HARDENED steel screws or whatever thy are is not the way to go It works well of the HEX HEAD is gone, as there is still a bit of metal in teh head of teh bolts, but drilling a shaft is near impossible. took me 20 min, but I got 2 bolts out that way... YAY !
* except the 2 bolts are on 2 different bulkheads. BOOO [&o]

I ended up using a dremel cut off wheel and trimming a bit of the plastic around where the sheared off bolt was in the plastic, and then grabbing the screw with needle nose plyers and twisting it out.

YAY !
*Now I'm back off to Home depot to get the right kind of screws... BOOO [&o] stupid self tapping metal... raserfraken grumble grumble....

EDIT 2 :
OK, so I decided to switch the bolts out that hold the front bumper on with Hex Head cap screw since they take such a slamming and grind the heads off from the X heads so that you can't unscrew them once they are filed off, and replaced the lock washer with some wingnuts that fit up inside the front bulkhad so I can get at it easier in the future to do bumperswap outs, or to access the screws that are under the front end. I picked up #8 x 1 Ival Head Phillips screws at Home Depot in Stainless Steel and they are a good match. the thread is slightly more coarse, but holds tight inthe front for the 4 bulkhead screw pots.

TheFgMan01

on the servo part. i use the Hitech 5745 . i think those are the numbers lol but it is metal gears and it's pretty tuff... listen to this !I i was out at a contruction site basking the hell out of my H2. basically got it so muddy my air chuck would do the job. so i took it to the to car wash and took the shell off and power washed the hell out of it !! and the servo lasted somehow... but i did have to let the reciever dry out [:@] sealed reciever box my arse.

have you tried running 2 steering servos yet? i think i remember you saying you have the 805 hitec right? so try out that 5745, Very tuff and i still have the very first 5745 i bought in my Marder and it 3 years old

Dave ESPI

yeah I'm running a 805 it has 343oz of torque, so it really does crank over, but it for sure has issues. Maybe there is a dead spot ont he motor where the gear return point is broken.. I donno.... I'm tearing it down tonight. The good thing is that I leaned the motor out a bit and now teh high end on this F'er SCREAMSSSSS !

WAHHHHHHHHHHHHHBBBWWAHHHHHHHH !!!!!!! itz badddaassss !

* just have to get new tierods for it and I will replace the servo anyway, so next week I'll be back up and running... i teh mean time I'm driving my 'letrics and flying Planes. I'm jonesing over the TRIBUTE FX 3d from e-flite and am ordering one next week.

TheFgMan01

yeah i noticed you have alot of stuff down there in your sig air water and ground lol. yeah i hate waiting for parts i have to order a new 813 carb. i have a DDM prefilter and the FG filter i noticed had dirt on the inside of it [:'(] .. so i think i screwed my carb up.. so far i cleaned it twice. it'll crank and run good for 2 -3 passes and then low end starts bogging baaad again. sooo have to wait to order the carb and alloy hubs *again* and tear the diff apart.. do you ever have trouble with dirty carbs??? you think i should go back to using the stock carb with the choke and all.. this will be my third carb and i cant figure out why there going out on me.

Dave ESPI

I'm running stock carb, and have good prefilters on it. I have yet to tear it down and check the carb, but the internal airfilter is not dirty at all and when I had the rear end torn apart, I checked the inside of the case fromt eh airfilter and there was not any dirt on my fingers at all, so I'll assume it is really clean. That prefilter and added oil really traps a LOT of crap from getting in the carb.

I had to replace the gasket on my JETPRO pipe as it was leaking a bit of oil and air out from the exhaust port, but now it seems to have sealed up. I think the previous owner over cranked the gasket initialy and compressed it too much. I re-tightened it today and ran the motor for a few min.... gawd that thing is loud !

TheFgMan01

Dave hows the truck going?? did you get everything back together yet?
I drilled out the screw that broke off in my alloy uprights and just re-threaded the holes and used new allen screws. thats why i love alloy. cant do that with plastic

Dave ESPI

I got back from vacation Thursday, and ordered replacement servo and the linkages today actualy. I hate those little spacers that go in the linkage rails. what teh heck are they for ? couldn't they just make the shims in the machine process teh proper size ? I really don't think a 1/8th inch shim is going to affect the driveability and overall handling of the vehicle's performance win gold medals.... LOL But I ordered some anyhow as a few are missing from my front end, and it causes a bit of slop.

I think I'm going to buy another brand new truck to use as parts.... it seems way cheaper than replacing all the little stuff and things like wheels and bodies seperately.

TheFgMan01

use the brand new one and use the old on for parts... hey why not just give alloy a try. you can gring the broken schrews down flush and the just drill the out.. i tried my damnest to not buy uprights all over again. and the drilling work... see if it works for your plastic.. gind that sucker down flush and drill... should work great.

Dave ESPI

FGM, nah, too much work to swap all the upgraded parts over to a new truck. This one runs awesome as is, but just needs some stronger springs for teh rear end, and I have to figure out this steering issue.

Argh, well, ......... just ARGH and HARUMPH ! [:@][>:]

I took apart the servos and all the linkage from the radio tray, the post under the servo saver that threads up into the horn is bent, so that I figured was what was causing the binding issue.. nope.

SOOOOOO, I took the 805 out and tried it on another car by pluging it into the recierver, and had a fresh 6 cell pack on. It went vreet vreet, vreet vreet, derrrrrrr vreet. then nothing.

AH HA ! I said.... It has to be a servo issue.

SOOOOOO, I took the case apart and check all the gears...... no missing teeth, and it moves just fine. The seal is still on the case, so it can't be any water damages to the electronics for all I can tell.
I'm emailing Hitec. It has to be an electronic issue or something I'm not able to diagnose. In the mean time I'm buying another new one from a dealer. If THAT doesn't fix it, I really do not have anyidea what is the problem, and will just throw all the stuff in the garbage and get a higher quality ($ 100.00+) servo for the steering.

EDIT: I took apart the servo saver, and the bottom screw and post itself is bent. I'm replacing the entire assembly with the alloy one. I'm cycling my batteries through again to see if perhaps the low battery is getting a false peak in the charge, hence the servo power failures on the return leg of travel, but I higly doubt it since I tried it on a completely different car and power set up with 7.2 volt

Dave ESPI

I guess I need to clarify a bit about the word BASH for some people around here.

If you are from the UK, then using the phrase "Bashing around town" is perfectly acceptable.
Was is NOT acceptable is using the word "bash" to describe simply just driving your rc car or truck around and not actualy doing much potentialy harmfull activity or in either verbal lashing out sessions, or actual physical damages to a proper noun.

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/bash

bash(bsh)
v. bashed, bash·ing, bash·es
v.tr.
1. To strike with a heavy, crushing blow: The thug bashed the hood of the car with a sledgehammer.
2. To beat or assault severely: The police arrested the men who bashed an immigrant in the park.
3. Informal To criticize (another) harshly, accusatorially, and threateningly: "He bashed the . . . government unmercifully over the . . . spy affair" Lally Weymouth.

v.intr. Informal
To engage in harsh, accusatory, threatening criticism.
n.
1. Informal A heavy, crushing blow.
2. Slang A celebration; a party.



The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, Fourth Edition copyright ©2000 by Houghton Mifflin Company. Updated in 2003. Published by Houghton Mifflin Company. All rights reserved.

Aparently, A "basher" n. Person engaging in acts of destruction or defile of character is what some people seem to be hung up about as another forum member posted a thread about "bashing" his Baja. With all the Political 2 side coin flipping that people seem to be doing between FG and HPI as to the pissin' match over what is better, I made light of the actual root of the word and used it in it's connotation to actualy BASH the poster for "a crappy video" in which there was no actual broken parts or any sort of toomfoolery, horseplay, roughing of the car, or other sort of "not playing nicely with your toys".

The video in of itself was actualy just fine, and well done.

In light of said humerous jab, some people got all upset over the wrong things, and have yet to come to understand Sarcasm (please see Dictionary.com for this word also) as it is paramount to understanding the humor in said post I made that seemed to have ruffled feathers.

Here is an example of my "bashing" of my FGMT5 in pictoral form:
From playing hard with my toys and giving them a good round of abuse.....





Please make note of this piece only being 2 gallons of gasoline old, and a brand new part sitting next to it showing what 10 tanks of gas worth of "bashing" looks like in comparison.

kengentry5000

My Feedback: (2)

CNR makes an alloy gear protector. I have run mine for almost two years. It is getting a little thin.

TheFgMan01

Yeah I've bent those screws before in the servo saver. It's messes up the whole thing steering wise if its bad enough. Dave im getting a all Chrome 29cc motor with head kit carb and clutch. $234. that price dosent get any better ) also ordering the alloy engine mounts and taller 14t gear... hopefully she'll be bullet proof HOPEFULLY!!

Dave ESPI

Ken I got the "Nuts Racing" billet replacement aluminum machined cover for the dif drive gear from Python Motorsports. It is one plastic part that really does need to be upgraded and at 17.00 Well worth it. I have the aluminum servo-saver comming this week, and should be back up and running before the first of the month. Hopefully I'll be able to re-shoot my 4x8 sheet of plywood off the car hood jump I did before my truck slammed the light pole and do a heavy run session video and the FGMT some justice My front end is back on, and just need the tierods and servosaver now...... argh parts and wait time sux.

Dave ESPI

Well, Python Products came through again for me, and now I have a remote kill switch for my beast.

It was fairly easy to install without a huge need to strip down the truck. Biggest P.I.T.A. was loosening the bolts and getting the black lead off the contact and then back on it. I got lucky though using a flat blade screwdriver and it went on back without much fight [8D]. Pulled the sparkplug, and the screws for the top head cover, slid it back a bit and it became a cinch without having to remove the entire outer housing.

I Stripped the wires, wrapped the braids around it, added solder, electrical taped them, and then dremel a small notch in the case and ran the wire up and out into the reciever box. Wiretied them to the frame, and it plugged into my AUX slot on the DX3 reciever for the third channel.

Install and total time : 1.5 hour. Piece of cake! Scale of 1-10 for difficulty and "ARGHHHH !" factor, I give it a 3.















See, BAJA and FGMT stuff can live in harmony afterall

EDIT:

Wehalp, I couldn't figure out why this thing was just blinking at me no matter what I did, so I emailed.......

Hello, I have purchased one of your kill switches and installed it as per your instructions. I'm having trouble configuring it to my SPEKTRUM DX3 radio and the module is locked in Failsafe mode (blinking green light). Is there somethign I'm not set properly on the TX for aux channel 3 ( c) button??



Any guidance is appreciated thanks.



DaveEspi

REPLY:

Hi Dave,


I do not have a Spektrum myself but should be able to offer you a few tips.
Please check the following things:

Firstly, that it is plugged in right, if it is back the front all it will do is blink. The orange wire is the "Signal" wire, just like the white wire on Futaba style servo leads.
Secondly, the channel that the switch is on, needs to be setup on "Linear" mode.
Thirdly, depending on your radio setup, you may need to setup the correct failsafe function for CH3 (AUX) if your Spektrum is set to override it.
If you have any problems, please let me know and I will try and help as best I can

Kind Regards,
Angus P
Custom Baja Electrics


Well I R SMURT huurrrrr... Had it plugged in backwards. But is good to know about the linear setting, now I just have to figure out how to get the "c" button to do it..... Perhaps today when I have the truck actualy running it will do what is supposed to with no need for further adjustments.

TheFgMan01

I gotta get me one of those

Dave ESPI

Got my servo back fron HITEC. They repaired a damaged amplifier...... free, no charge

EDIT: In reply to FGman: I've had it for about 3 months, but have less than 10 hours use on it.

I bought a replacement one a few weeks ago, but is nice to have a back up, or if I decide to go dual steer servo set up.

TWIN 805 BB baby ! that will just be sick !

TheFgMan01

thats nice that they did that. How long have you had it for them to do that for you? if mine poops out i should send it in and see if they'll repair it for free

screamin chicken

I too just bought a FG Stadium it's awesome and I have that same fail safe love the 3 ch. cut off.I am wondering about Hi tech I see you had one go bad and the one in mine went out after 1 run, and in my Muggy I have a 2 week old 5955TQ and it went bad also, I may get away from Hi tech and go with the Airtronics.
Can you measure you tire I am wanting to get the MT tire for the back of my Stadium to try and get more traction I mean I can get it on the road and do burn outs all day and in the dirt you can imagine what happens.I just do not want to get the truck jacked up in the rear to much.hers is a pict.

Dave ESPI

SC, what radio are you using ? You may need to set the limits on the travel ratio for the servos. I set my right side end point at about 65 and the left at 80 in my SPEKTRUM DX3.

I still need to figure out why the failsafe isn't working on the "C" button. I'm sure it is a programing thing.

MT tires are 8.2 inches, and rims are 4.5 x 5 wide.

Dave ESPI

Wehalp, I have no idea what I did to get this to set itself, but I was fiddling with the DX3 TX, and set the AUX to somethign, and it worked. I now have a remote powered killswitch

Only thing I was also curious about is this capasitor that SPEKTRUM sells that can be used to power boost incase of a drain on the power flow from the battery can be used with a "Y" harness into the same slot( or another one) , or if that is asking toomuch.

If there is a remote START or STOP that is electric powered, that would be awesome to put on instead of the pull start......

Push Button Starting........ from the TX... THAT would be hella cool and MUSTHAVE [X(]

Dave ESPI

NIGHTIME:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=315y_x9GoVM

DAYTIME:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WDbCBL-4iE

and results of the slammo:



Luckily I have a homedepot in the same exact area, and picked up some threadded rod, replaced the tie-end with parts I have in stock here at home, and was back up and running for a few more runs later today (hence the night footage)

Sorry the camerawoman was new to this, and not very good at tracking motion at all times, I'll have better ones next weekend.

TheFgMan01

Dave i have to get up a pic of my speed gun with a new reading.. I dont know how but i swear this 29 seems faster than my 26 on top end.
Nice speed runs. she really gets up. also sounds great, i wish i could upload vids but my Cam isent compatable so im sol for now. But you sure love some night Vids dont you