New to the 1/5 scale RC world
#51
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Hellya.. Thanks for the info..I do buy from tower with most of the Nitro world stuff..Looks good for the fire hammer parts..I do have the alum rear diff shell..just came in mail..but after seeing the ss one thats even better...So I will get the ss one as well..Think I will just get the dog bones from tower for my useage..I just run in a open 400 yard area.. mowed grass aera.....Thank you for your help
and other people on this..I just want to get the drive train beefed up..gear plate, engine mounts ..Only reason I asked about alloy on the rear diff was the stock plates.. the bearing fall out..loose fit..no need to spin a bearing...Many thanks again..Roger
and other people on this..I just want to get the drive train beefed up..gear plate, engine mounts ..Only reason I asked about alloy on the rear diff was the stock plates.. the bearing fall out..loose fit..no need to spin a bearing...Many thanks again..Roger
#52
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The best place to get the alloy motor mounts is from Aussie the prices are in Aus dollar .......shipping is alot less here than from Germany...cost me $15 shipping from Aussie Cost $50 from germany
Large
http://powerslideracing.com.au/index...oducts_id=1027
Small
http://powerslideracing.com.au/index...oducts_id=1028
Large
http://powerslideracing.com.au/index...oducts_id=1027
Small
http://powerslideracing.com.au/index...oducts_id=1028
#53
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Hellya..Thanks for your reply...I just checked out powerslider..They said there not shipping to where I live..So guess That leaves FG to get parts from....I really do apperacate ever bodys help with my project getting this fire hammer done the way it should be..Thanks again..Roger
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I've ordered from them ....they will ship parts, not vehicles to the U.S.A. ....contact them by email [email protected]
FG motor mounts will not work on the firehammer....unles you change more parts to fg parts
FG motor mounts will not work on the firehammer....unles you change more parts to fg parts
#55
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Hellya: thanks for your reply..I e-mailed powerslider..I guess I did not see international customers thing on website...So resent another e-mail to them..
Yeah ...I already placed a order with RC-Nut for the fg mounts...I will call them by phone in morning too cancel the Fg Mounts..at Rc-Nut..Thanks for getting me strighted out on this..
Cuz I sure have no idea what too order for this firehammer..Thanks again..Roger
Yeah ...I already placed a order with RC-Nut for the fg mounts...I will call them by phone in morning too cancel the Fg Mounts..at Rc-Nut..Thanks for getting me strighted out on this..
Cuz I sure have no idea what too order for this firehammer..Thanks again..Roger
#56
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By the way, I saw you ordered a spur and pinion. The pinion gear diameter is different for Smartech/Firehammer compared to FG, the spurs are the same diameter. If you ordered the FG sized pinion gear you should either have the order changed or return the pinion for the Smartech/Firehammer sized pinion. If you use the FG pinion then you will need to change out *at least* the gear plate that holds the clutch bell and layshaft (which dictate the gear diameter). There would be no advantage to run the FG-sized gear setup unless you were to try and go to a two-speed gear setup. Two-speed is only available for FG and is pretty expensive ($200+) but can provide a big boost to top speed.
On the 6V battery questions you asked, your 6V sub-C pack should work well. I haven't heard anything in three years on the forum from someone saying 7.2 - 8.4 volts drives the servo much better than 6V. It is best if you have a Y-harness on your steering servo so it can get its power directly from the battery instead of from the receiver. Most receivers regulate the output voltage down to 4.8V. Your Spektrum receiver may not regulate voltage down to 4.8V but you might want to ask on the forum - many forum members run Spektrum radios.
For the engine mounts you may be fine with the stock setup. I run an FG alloy small mount and stock plastic large mount. I crank down the alloy mount tight with threadlock and just snug on the plastic mount. This setup has held my rear gear mesh great (and I bash pretty hard). I used to have all kinds of hassle when both mounts were plastic. Since your stock small engine mount is alloy just crank this one down good with threadlock and you might be just fine. You can spend your money on other cool hopups instead of engine mounts.
On the 6V battery questions you asked, your 6V sub-C pack should work well. I haven't heard anything in three years on the forum from someone saying 7.2 - 8.4 volts drives the servo much better than 6V. It is best if you have a Y-harness on your steering servo so it can get its power directly from the battery instead of from the receiver. Most receivers regulate the output voltage down to 4.8V. Your Spektrum receiver may not regulate voltage down to 4.8V but you might want to ask on the forum - many forum members run Spektrum radios.
For the engine mounts you may be fine with the stock setup. I run an FG alloy small mount and stock plastic large mount. I crank down the alloy mount tight with threadlock and just snug on the plastic mount. This setup has held my rear gear mesh great (and I bash pretty hard). I used to have all kinds of hassle when both mounts were plastic. Since your stock small engine mount is alloy just crank this one down good with threadlock and you might be just fine. You can spend your money on other cool hopups instead of engine mounts.
#57
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Thread Starter

Kengen: Thanks for your reply..As to the pinion and spur gear..there steel from large scale .com for the firehammer..also have the alloy gear plate ordered..
Every thing that has been ordered for my firehammer my son's took care of that...seeing how I am on a low budget for expence's..They figured this will make me happy and give me some thing too do..
Maybe I will get hooked on this gas stuff and sell off my nitro stuff..Ouch big bucks invested there..Thanks for the heads up on the Y harness..never dawned on me about that..for the steering..I am not sure what the servo is for the steering at this point..But if not happy with it I will replace it with a rhino...Well this week maybe all the items will be here for the great rebuild of the firehammer..I am a believer in quality and workmanship..I run my toyz hard and want too hold up...Understand basic up keep and cleaning,replace as needed...But in this case it is needed cuz of orig owner ran it in the ground..
many thanks to all you good people who replied to the post..Too many too list..ButI am greatful to you all with your input...You have been there done that..I am just starting in the 1/5 scale..
Roger
Every thing that has been ordered for my firehammer my son's took care of that...seeing how I am on a low budget for expence's..They figured this will make me happy and give me some thing too do..
Maybe I will get hooked on this gas stuff and sell off my nitro stuff..Ouch big bucks invested there..Thanks for the heads up on the Y harness..never dawned on me about that..for the steering..I am not sure what the servo is for the steering at this point..But if not happy with it I will replace it with a rhino...Well this week maybe all the items will be here for the great rebuild of the firehammer..I am a believer in quality and workmanship..I run my toyz hard and want too hold up...Understand basic up keep and cleaning,replace as needed...But in this case it is needed cuz of orig owner ran it in the ground..
many thanks to all you good people who replied to the post..Too many too list..ButI am greatful to you all with your input...You have been there done that..I am just starting in the 1/5 scale..
Roger
#58
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alloy gear plate from FG wont work in the FH.. only place I have seen for the gear plate in alloy was here...
http://www.danielspitstop.com.au/men...s.aspx?MID=295
Check out this video of a FH
http://s248.photobucket.com/albums/g...ent=Vid004.flv
I ordered mine from there when it was in stock



heres a shot of the aluminum diff cover and the SS steel diff cover....you can stand on the SS cover and not crush it...try that with the aluminum one
Steel left ........alu right.....not bad for $22.99 http://www.pythonmotorsports.com/fg/...opupparts.html
http://www.danielspitstop.com.au/men...s.aspx?MID=295
Check out this video of a FH

I ordered mine from there when it was in stock



heres a shot of the aluminum diff cover and the SS steel diff cover....you can stand on the SS cover and not crush it...try that with the aluminum one
Steel left ........alu right.....not bad for $22.99 http://www.pythonmotorsports.com/fg/...opupparts.html

#60
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Hellya: many thanks for the headsup on this...Wow your unit looks awsome....some day hope mine will look like that....Holy crap batman that ss diff cup is out of this world..
Gota have that for sure...I guessI will have to get a hold of you before I make any more stupid mistakes..not knowing what too do...I am very glad there are people like you in this forum..
I am trying to cancel the order with RC Nut...Many thanks to you again...Roger
Gota have that for sure...I guessI will have to get a hold of you before I make any more stupid mistakes..not knowing what too do...I am very glad there are people like you in this forum..
I am trying to cancel the order with RC Nut...Many thanks to you again...Roger
#61
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ORIGINAL: kengentry5000
Hey hellya, what's the advantage of an alloy gear plate?
...other than it looking super sweet
Hey hellya, what's the advantage of an alloy gear plate?
...other than it looking super sweet

None that I know of

your welcome Roger....dont want someone to order stuff he cant use......that sucks
#62
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Hellya...Took me 15 minutes to get thru the pictures..Some nice mods done...I sent danial's pit stop a e-mail on the gear plate..there going to get back to me.when there in stock...
I just want to have things so there is not much flex for the drive train..smoother running...nice Video ...I will keep you informed on this as I go along and you can correct me...Thanks
Roger
I just want to have things so there is not much flex for the drive train..smoother running...nice Video ...I will keep you informed on this as I go along and you can correct me...Thanks
Roger
#63
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Ok... Some of you all know what I have too work with ..FireHammer,,But you have not seen mine..So I will try too post some pictures...Not top shelf stuff,but a place too start..In fact it will never see a shelf..plan on running this hard...Roger
#65
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Lars:..it looks ok..but lots of small stuff..body broken,wheel bearings rough.couple don't even move...screws missin or broken off..The rear diff outer shall was smashed,,couple of chips on the gears
I don't even know if the engine runs or not..said it did...said only 1 too 2 tanks of fuel on this engine...said engine new with hopped up parts..can see alloy on the engine,head,fan cover,DDM torque pipe..
Like mentioned bearings are coming this week along with diff shell,kill switch,drive cups ,K&N style air filter,outerware covers...pinion & spur,Trying to get gear plate and engine mounts yet...
If engine turns out too be bad I will scrap it get a zenona 26CC...Oh forgot need to replace dog bones..I just want a soild drive train..and I can up grade from there...As pointed out too me.. use stock arms
they break quite often..good to have a weak point on the truck...But I will keep every one posted to progress...and hope to get maybe a video taken(never done that)think my camera will do that,..Hmmmm
have too check that out...Roger
Edit: for spelling
I don't even know if the engine runs or not..said it did...said only 1 too 2 tanks of fuel on this engine...said engine new with hopped up parts..can see alloy on the engine,head,fan cover,DDM torque pipe..
Like mentioned bearings are coming this week along with diff shell,kill switch,drive cups ,K&N style air filter,outerware covers...pinion & spur,Trying to get gear plate and engine mounts yet...
If engine turns out too be bad I will scrap it get a zenona 26CC...Oh forgot need to replace dog bones..I just want a soild drive train..and I can up grade from there...As pointed out too me.. use stock arms
they break quite often..good to have a weak point on the truck...But I will keep every one posted to progress...and hope to get maybe a video taken(never done that)think my camera will do that,..Hmmmm
have too check that out...Roger
Edit: for spelling
#66

Yep,i know.When i bought my FG Marder it looked good on the pics,but its totally impossible to see on a pic if all the little moving parts are worn out or not.Now i have changed all parts on it,making it a nice and firm car.Fill up with some gas and try fire the engine!You've got nothing to loose as KISS sings

#67
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Thread Starter

Whaoooooo... miss's just can in with a arm full of small boxs..she said santa has arrived...How says there's not christmas in July...I will be checking those out in a little bit to be sure there right..
May be got to do some building tonight....Yeah after seeing foxy's vid ...I am pumped up about this gas stuff...I know I am just like a little kid...But I never had a real gas truck before...
Many thanks to you all..Roger
May be got to do some building tonight....Yeah after seeing foxy's vid ...I am pumped up about this gas stuff...I know I am just like a little kid...But I never had a real gas truck before...
Many thanks to you all..Roger
#68
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OK...dumb question..on the wheel bearings..I got 1 set out and 1 new set in ok..how much play should there be ..when to going to tighten the block for the wheel hub to bearing?
I have it set for a peace of paper...slight movement...I don't think you would want it tight next to the bearing case...I was so tight trying to get off.. I had to pry it way from the old bearing..
Thanks ..Roger
I have it set for a peace of paper...slight movement...I don't think you would want it tight next to the bearing case...I was so tight trying to get off.. I had to pry it way from the old bearing..
Thanks ..Roger
#69

Are you talking about tighting the wheelsquares to the axles,and the play in the axles?On my FG i have tightened it holding the end of the axle into the bearing on the inside facing the chassis while tightening the wheelsquares on the outside,maybe 1/10 mm of play.
#70
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Lars: Yes that is what I am talking about..I am not to goo at guessing the parts of this firehammer..I will have to down load a manual...That is about what I have for adjustment..Thanks,,
Done all wheel bearing last nite..replaced worn eyes on the control arms...ready to do the rear diff...
Hellya: I got a hold of mike at powersliders in Aussie..He is going too hook me up with the engine mounts...Thank Your there..Still trying to get info from Danial's pit stop on the
gear plate..The item is backordered at the monent..I did e-mail them....
Many Thanks too allyou guys put there in the forum who are helping me....Still waiting for a few items yet....
Roger
Done all wheel bearing last nite..replaced worn eyes on the control arms...ready to do the rear diff...
Hellya: I got a hold of mike at powersliders in Aussie..He is going too hook me up with the engine mounts...Thank Your there..Still trying to get info from Danial's pit stop on the
gear plate..The item is backordered at the monent..I did e-mail them....
Many Thanks too allyou guys put there in the forum who are helping me....Still waiting for a few items yet....
Roger
#71
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Thread Starter

OK..Have a question in the electronic's :It was suggested I use a Y harness for the steering servo..My battery power will be 6 volt 30000mah 2/3 style pac..
I have a Spectrum DX3 radio system..I use for my nitro truck...So I can also use it for the firehammer..Built in fail safe..But I am going to install a kill switch also..
Could some one give me some ideas here.. Hope too hav running this week end..Thank you Roger
I have a Spectrum DX3 radio system..I use for my nitro truck...So I can also use it for the firehammer..Built in fail safe..But I am going to install a kill switch also..
Could some one give me some ideas here.. Hope too hav running this week end..Thank you Roger
#72
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2/3A style packs are a bit underpowered for our applications. Of course it also depends how 'juicy' your servos are (how much current they require). You should be ok, and in my opinion, a Y-harness is not necessary. Why aren't you using a SubC pack, just out of curiosity? Is it cos you have the 2/3A from your nitros? If so, then you can use it, but I would recommend getting a SubC pack soon. It won't do the battery any good, and your electronics maybe starved for current, especially when braking hard and steering hard at the same time.
#73
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Foxt: I use this battery also in my nitro truck..But think it is intended for the 1/5 scale baja...Looks like too me a sub C pac..See picture ..
I can zip this battery too the support bracket behind the front tower...The servo's are Futruba ,I am use to Hi-tec..But will consider using a Rhino for the steering..Thank You..All replies welcome..Roger
I can zip this battery too the support bracket behind the front tower...The servo's are Futruba ,I am use to Hi-tec..But will consider using a Rhino for the steering..Thank You..All replies welcome..Roger
#74
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Yeh, that's a subC pack. Sorry, now I understand... When you wrote 2/3 style pack, I assumed you meant it had 2/3A cells, which are the little stubby ones we use for nitro receiver packs. Sorry, my mistake. I should have thought about it better. lol. Spent too many years running nitro, and certain terms just stick, you know. [&:]
It's a good pack that one, no need for a Y-harness in my opinion.
It's a good pack that one, no need for a Y-harness in my opinion.
#75
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Foxy: No mistake..I guess I should have explained my self better on the product....Too me it is a 2/3 style..2 on top 3 on bottom...But as you mentioned in the nirto world it is those AA Batterys..
I am having a problem with the correct names of this 1/5 scale things..But I will get it all sorted out...Just bear with me ..as I am learning this new world of fun..
Thanks for you reply...Roger
I am having a problem with the correct names of this 1/5 scale things..But I will get it all sorted out...Just bear with me ..as I am learning this new world of fun..
Thanks for you reply...Roger