CPI big bore pipe
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Has anyone tried this pipe? I will be putting one on my redcat rampage tt It's made for a baja but I spoke to people at CPI and they are interested in getting on to fit a rampage. I will post pics soon
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What engine are you going to run it on? I have both the standard and big bore pipe. I have not run the big bore pipe yet as I do not have any of my bigger displacement engines done yet but hope to shortly. Matter of fact I need to call Mike owner of CPI tomorrow as he is suppose to have something ready for me. I talked to some at the Baja Challenge at Diggers Dungeon last weekend that like the standard pipe even on bigger engines better.
Here is a link talking about the CPI pipe.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8989168/tm.htm
Here is a link talking about the CPI pipe.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8989168/tm.htm
#3
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I have a race ported 28.9cc I wanted more power and the ability to use a 5b dessert rat conversion body. Also loose a little weight.
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Being the CPI pipe is made of steel it is far from light. But as far as performance steel is the best materiel to make a pipe out of. This is only hear say as I have not run my big bore CPI pipe yet only my standard pipe on a stock engine and the standard pipe works great on the stock engine but those that have run both the big bore and standard pipe on larger displacement engine claim that the low and mid are better then the standard pipe but the top is not as good.
The only grips I have with the CPI pipe which are ones that others have is I have to weld the bottom mount back on and so far the pipe leaks after a few runs at the O-ring where the header and pipe go together. If you check the link I posted above you will see I am not the only one! I have some different types of o-rings to try and why I have to call Mike of CPI is when the O-ring went on mine the vibration wore the header down around.015 and the O-ring does nothing to seal now. I like the performance of the CPI but the bottom mount I will weld back on and make a brace for it and on my big bore will make a brace before I run it and then the leaking problem as it blows oil all over the back of the engine.
The only grips I have with the CPI pipe which are ones that others have is I have to weld the bottom mount back on and so far the pipe leaks after a few runs at the O-ring where the header and pipe go together. If you check the link I posted above you will see I am not the only one! I have some different types of o-rings to try and why I have to call Mike of CPI is when the O-ring went on mine the vibration wore the header down around.015 and the O-ring does nothing to seal now. I like the performance of the CPI but the bottom mount I will weld back on and make a brace for it and on my big bore will make a brace before I run it and then the leaking problem as it blows oil all over the back of the engine.
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this is that same problem I have had with my black one.
The O-ring leaks and the bottom bracket broke first time out.
Had that welded and seems to hold up just fine.
the o-ring problem I am still waiting for 46U to send me a couple of his try out ones
The O-ring leaks and the bottom bracket broke first time out.
Had that welded and seems to hold up just fine.
the o-ring problem I am still waiting for 46U to send me a couple of his try out ones

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I haven’t had any of the problems with my CPI pipe discussed. I am however no fool and decided to address the mounting brackets and o-ring seal. I did notice the brackets are only welded on one side so I completely welded the brackets to the pipe and so far so good. As for the o-ring issue I just installed DDM’S no leak coupler [link]http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.6447/.f[/link] and I haven’t had any leaking issues yet. It is a great pipe and these are small issue CPI should have no problem fixing.
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So that will work even with the big difference between the header dia and the pipe dia?
I know that CPI have 3 different ways they made there pipe My standard CPI was stamped out by some one else and Mike welds them together which is the version 2. The first version or proto type the 180 degree are made out of small sections of pipe which is there proto pipe. Scot and Troy of Large scale RC had this version at Diggers Dungeons race I attended. The the 3rd version is like my Big Bore CPI pipe and Mike at CPI stamps all his own parts now. Mike designed all of them. My standard pipe the bracket was welded on both sides. The weld did not break as the metal broke after the weld. So the weld was good but my big bore CPI is only on one side. I have a small mig welder and will work on both and reinforce them as well.
I know that CPI have 3 different ways they made there pipe My standard CPI was stamped out by some one else and Mike welds them together which is the version 2. The first version or proto type the 180 degree are made out of small sections of pipe which is there proto pipe. Scot and Troy of Large scale RC had this version at Diggers Dungeons race I attended. The the 3rd version is like my Big Bore CPI pipe and Mike at CPI stamps all his own parts now. Mike designed all of them. My standard pipe the bracket was welded on both sides. The weld did not break as the metal broke after the weld. So the weld was good but my big bore CPI is only on one side. I have a small mig welder and will work on both and reinforce them as well.
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Yep, it fits nice. You have to stretch it over the pipe and it fits snug on the header, I did use a zip tie and not the included hose clamp. I will take a pic and post it up later today.
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I fitted it over the pipe first and then slid it over the header. You do have to stretch it a bit to get it over the pipe but it shouldn’t be too difficult.
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I eventually got it on. After another hour and a half of pushing, pulling, grunting, swearing and bleeding I decided to try fitting it to the header first and it popped straight on.
One thing i had to do was spead the pipe at the bottom of the loop with a screwdriver to allow the coupler to fit between the pipes.
Thanks for the quick reply
One thing i had to do was spead the pipe at the bottom of the loop with a screwdriver to allow the coupler to fit between the pipes.
Thanks for the quick reply