FG MT tips I found helpful!
I have owned my FG MT for a little under 2 months and 10+ tanks of fuel. Here is what I have learned using the truck and search the internet including this site. Maybe all this info will help others. or maybe everyone else knows but me.
Removing the rear sway bar is a great benifit off road with no noticable problem with it missing on road. Dump out the stock shock oil, go with 40-45 in frt and 50-70 in rear, higher the number thicker the oil and better for landing larger jumps. Twin 805BB steering servos really help in tight spots crawling over rough terrain. Rich fuel mixture is not cheap insurance for a 2 stroke, just costs more in spark plugs and agrivation. The lay shaft gear will break a tooth if you don't let off the gas during a jump. If you add an addional tail pipe on the stock exhaust (ie duals) there is noticable gains. The FG Tuned pipe gives you a VERY nice smooth power band, good top end increase and great lower and also what I like, is quieter for the neighbors. Now I need better brakes. Drill 2 1/8 holes on the inside of each rim to allow the tire to breath and handle the bumps better. Replace the cheap on/off switch with a good quality sealled switch. Sand binds up the yellow engine cut off switch, so no amount of pulling the pull start will fix :D Gotta pop it back out. Frt tires are marked with M for medium rubber compond, rears are marked H for hard, get it right. If I tie strap the left and right side of the engine tight to the rear diff carrier housing I no longer break Lay gears. Frt uprights/knuckles are plastic with a steel inner collar, but with the factory washers between the control arms and uprights the factory bolts are not long enough to reach the steel inner collar. Frt steering tie rods are mounted below the upright arm from factory, and if mounted on top of the upright arm now run parrallel with the control arms and frt bump steer is virtually elliminated. I did notice a good difference when I switched from champion to NGK spark plugs. Thats all I can remember now, hope this helps. sry bout the spiling misteaks ehh. PBJT |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
Medium tires belong on the rear.. you'll find yourself spinning for days with H on the rear
Good lookin out on the tips though. i will try the tirrod trick with moving it to the top |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
nice list
although I noticed that with the rear sway gone the truck requires more throttle control when powering out of corners, before it would drift out under throttle, now it spins heaps easier |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
Thanks for more tips on my tips, anyone else have some more thoughts, or even so of there own tips??
PBJT |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
The kill switch sticking problem is easy to fix. Put a small machine screw into the plastic button of the switch. When the button is stuck 'in' you can pull it back out easily with the screw head.
Drill a hole in the plastic button of the switch slightly smaller than an small machine screw. Screw the machine screw in enough to hold but not too deep and you're done. |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
Thanks for the tips, one question "I did notice a good difference when I switched from champion to NGK spark plugs. "
when you switched from the champion to the NGK was the champion old and replaced with a new NGK or did you do a comparasion with both new? |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
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replace the stock diff cover with a SS diff cover....or silicone in front and behind the stock cover
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RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
PAPE, good question...yes the champion plug was old and did fowl, and the NGK plug was new and just put in..So maybe the Champion was getting poor and I was just use to it.
Also good idea about the silicone-kinda ugly but the idea would work. PBJT |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
Probably a stupid question, but what is the reason for the silicone around the diff housing?
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RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
^ to try and keep the rocks from denting the hell out of the diff case :) I cut a huge square hole in the bottom of my chassis just under the diff and it works great for exiting the rocks. and no dented diff case at all! and it's been ran in gravel and contruction sites
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RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
ORIGINAL: TheFgMan01 ^ to try and keep the rocks from denting the hell out of the diff case :) I cut a huge square hole in the bottom of my chassis just under the diff and it works great for exiting the rocks. and no dented diff case at all! and it's been ran in gravel and contruction sites |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
"If I tie strap the left and right side of the engine tight to the rear diff carrier housing I no longer break Lay gears."
This sounds great, would anyone have pictures of or more info about this? "Frt uprights/knuckles are plastic with a steel inner collar, but with the factory washers between the control arms and uprights the factory bolts are not long enough to reach the steel inner collar." Is this solved by removing the washers? or only by replacing with longer screws? Thought I'd bring this thread back because it has some great tips! |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
"If I tie strap the left and right side of the engine tight to the rear diff carrier housing I no longer break Lay gears."
Why not just get alloy motor mounts?:D |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
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RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
yes that's the small one and get the large one too;)
http://www.fgsupply.com/product.cgi?...product=103792 |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
Was hoping you wouldnt say that :)
Are there any other mandatory mods for "bashing"? So far my marder beetle has: FG tuned pipe monster body and wheels alloy gear carrier with plastic spur (will change to steer if it strips easily) steel pinion 3700mah receiver battery LED voltage meter failsafe high torque Hitec metal geared throttle/brake servo dual quarter scale steering servos getting front cable brakes and alloy engine mounts thinking about alloy upper rear arms Anything else easily broken? I drive it offroad mostly, climbing and a few jumps Thanks :) |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
I don't see a killer bee 3rd channel kill switch on your list[X(]I had to go with both mounts for my DDM torque pipe,a real stump puller,since I put that pipe on the plastic mounts ain't cuttin' it:DGot any pics of your ride??;)
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RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
I've always wanted a kill switch but never thought there was a suitable one available, is the killer be the best one for us?
Do you know which I need? from a little reading it would appear there are many [X(] Will get some pics asap :) |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
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RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
I haven't decided between the spektrum DX3whatever or the Airtronix MX3something, but I will be switching to digital asap, currently on twitchy 27 mega olds ;)
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RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
For me stay away from the speky's,the airtronics isn't bad,I prefer and run the futaba 3PM-X,best system for the $$$$ IMO:D
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RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
The Futaba is nearly 3 times as much as the Airtronics, and their receivers twice as much, what do you get for the extra cash?
Other than the FU**taba label :) I just need a radio that will operate the kill switch and front cable disk brakes on my FG and the reverse on my Revo, everything else is 2 channel (for now) Thats the thing with the killerbee, I dont mind not having the kill switch on channel 3 (can just turn the TX off if I need to), im thinking I will need channel 3 for the disk brakes? Can disk brakes (and the standard rear brake) be operated with a two channel radio? (if the third is taken by the kill switch) Thanks buddy [sm=thumbs_up.gif] |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
theres a reason that the futaba label has the higher price tag itscalled higher quality electronics... from what i hear the spectrum last about a year max...
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RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
Can disk brakes (and the standard rear brake) be operated with a two channel radio? (if the third is taken by the kill switch) Yes you can I'm doing it now;) |
RE: FG MT tips I found helpful!
ORIGINAL: KamikazeParanoia Thats the thing with the killerbee, I dont mind not having the kill switch on channel 3 (can just turn the TX off if I need to), im thinking I will need channel 3 for the disk brakes? Can disk brakes (and the standard rear brake) be operated with a two channel radio? (if the third is taken by the kill switch) |
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