Building questions.
#1
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Building questions.
I have started to build (from scratch) a glider and now I'm stuck at the fuse.....How do I build the fuse please? (best method, material, design, etc).
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RE: Building questions.
What do the plans say and what design is it? Otherwise the answer is "with wood and some glue" and "carefully and straight".
If these are your own plans then search the 'net for other plans and study the materials and method used on those.
If these are your own plans then search the 'net for other plans and study the materials and method used on those.
#3
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RE: Building questions.
Plans in magazine is where I learned. xerox enlarge and study. some hobby shops recycle old magazines if you cant find a new sailplane plan. Do a google search " building sailplane" 'fuse' r/c."
#4
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RE: Building questions.
If you are going to make a molded fuse I have no idea, but for a lite ply and balsa?
Get some medium to heavy weight fiberglass in the 2.5 - 6 oz/ yard flavors. Check Charles River site for a nice way to prepare the glass for install by using wax paper and 3M 77 adhisive.
Use slow curing epoxy or finish coat epoxy. You may want to thin the slow-cure if it's the way you go. Use denatured alchohol for that.
Lay the glass down the inside of the fuse, all the way from the nose to at least the LE, maybe even to the TE, and it can extend up the side walls an inch or so too, just so it doesn't get in your way for installing rails, etc. Try to lay it in so the individual fibers run 45 degrees to the bottom and sides, not square with them. I do this when attaching the glass to the wax paper w/ the 3M 77 so it's already at the bias before I cut it. You may need a couple pieces as you probably have bulkheads to mold the glass around.
I like to put in some extra triangle stock in the inside fuse corners, so the glass goes across the bottom and up a more gradual 45 degree angle when it hits the side or bulkheads. Glass doesn't like it when you try to jamb it into a 90 degree corner.
A disposable brush can be handy for getting glue into the corners but mainly I use a piece of credit card type plastic to squeege it onto and through the glass. Helps to gently pull up the excess glue w/ a paper towel or two, if the stuff hasn't started to set up before you get to it. Wear rubber gloves when you do this so you can hold it down & in place, when you are doing that bit.
Gluck,
Get some medium to heavy weight fiberglass in the 2.5 - 6 oz/ yard flavors. Check Charles River site for a nice way to prepare the glass for install by using wax paper and 3M 77 adhisive.
Use slow curing epoxy or finish coat epoxy. You may want to thin the slow-cure if it's the way you go. Use denatured alchohol for that.
Lay the glass down the inside of the fuse, all the way from the nose to at least the LE, maybe even to the TE, and it can extend up the side walls an inch or so too, just so it doesn't get in your way for installing rails, etc. Try to lay it in so the individual fibers run 45 degrees to the bottom and sides, not square with them. I do this when attaching the glass to the wax paper w/ the 3M 77 so it's already at the bias before I cut it. You may need a couple pieces as you probably have bulkheads to mold the glass around.
I like to put in some extra triangle stock in the inside fuse corners, so the glass goes across the bottom and up a more gradual 45 degree angle when it hits the side or bulkheads. Glass doesn't like it when you try to jamb it into a 90 degree corner.
A disposable brush can be handy for getting glue into the corners but mainly I use a piece of credit card type plastic to squeege it onto and through the glass. Helps to gently pull up the excess glue w/ a paper towel or two, if the stuff hasn't started to set up before you get to it. Wear rubber gloves when you do this so you can hold it down & in place, when you are doing that bit.
Gluck,
#5
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RE: Building questions.
My suggestion is if you have never built before, get yourself a gentle lady kit and put it together. It will teach you more than you can imagine. Building from scratch is fun and cool, but if you have never built, building from scratch can be a huge pain. If you put a kit or two together and learn the basics, it will help a lot.
I have a friend that keeps making the same mistakes because he refuses to build a kit. You gotta learn somewhere. Kits will teach you a lot. Then you can scratch all you want.
I have a friend that keeps making the same mistakes because he refuses to build a kit. You gotta learn somewhere. Kits will teach you a lot. Then you can scratch all you want.
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RE: Building questions.
It flys pretty well with a broom stick for a fuse and some tape but its rediculouse. I will get some carbon fiber tube and balsa and will do the best aaaI can. Thanks for the ideas. I will look into the older mags for plans.
#7
RE: Building questions.
True, broomsticks aren't very pretty. I do think the magazines are your best source of design ideas if ou're looking to make it look better. As for performance, I noticed that the NATS winner in open soaring last year was Tom Kiessling and his Mantis -- a broomstick fuselage plane of his own design...
. . . so don't feel too bad about the look of your broomstick.
. . . so don't feel too bad about the look of your broomstick.
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RE: Building questions.
As a matter of interest, the very basic parameters of that design appear to me to owe quite a bit to Czepa's A2 design "Toothpick" from the early 1950's.
Ahhh, another oldie and goodie [8D][8D][8D][8D]
Ahhh, another oldie and goodie [8D][8D][8D][8D]
#11
RE: Building questions.
I used to work with Tom and he does acknowledge the influence of designs and designers now long gone... as well as the use of current airfoils, planforms, etc. The wing pylon in particular is an important functional design aspect that he revived from the model aviation history books. (It's where the ballast goes beside presenting the obvious lateral resistance and suspending the weight lower with respect to the wing... why wouldn't you have one?)
The Mantis is a great functional design, but then, too, I can tell you its designer fying a Gentle Lady could outperform nearly any of US flying a Mantis. (He was kind enough to demonstrate that for me first hand.)
The Mantis is a great functional design, but then, too, I can tell you its designer fying a Gentle Lady could outperform nearly any of US flying a Mantis. (He was kind enough to demonstrate that for me first hand.)