pwterry

casipak,
The metal rods balance the blades, from tip to root, and from leading edge to trailing edge. On such short and narrow blades, this balancing is probably not absolutely necessary. But, not being sure why the blades are balanced such, I am not the one to say that it isn't required.

You need to Track the blades if you're seeing two blades. Tracking adjusts the pitch of the individual blades so that each produces the same amount of lift. Mark one blade near the tip with a marker or fingernail polish, now you can tell which blade is low / high. Adjust the control links to the blades until you see only one blade (or as close has possible). Note: If you get a wobble and/or vibration after tracking the blades, the blades are not balanced.

I do not know what causes the yo-yo effect. It may have something to do with ground effect because mine doesn't do it above 4 feet of altitude.

casipak

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks, 'll try that.
I think the yo-yo was greatly increased because the blades aren't tracked.

NitroEnthusiast

The new version of ESKY honeybee2 is now available on eBay and the new name ESKY CP2. I think the new version is better and improved than the old one.

ThatGuy8402

6 channel controller simulator problem update:

http://www.heli-fever.com/product_in...roducts_id=198
Part no. SK067 - Simulator cable

Bought this cable, my 6 channel controller now works with PPJoy and FMS on windows XP - No modification necessary. It has some sort of built in converter, it claims.

raz54

Does anyone here have the hb version 2 if so is it better than version 1 and is it worth the money?

kobus_uk

Hi all

I'm new to the RC community and only bought my Esky Honeybee CP2 two weeks ago. Everything was perfect except that the battery only held through the maiden flight and wouldn't charge after that. Bought a new Li-PO and it's holding out. I have practiced on FMS simulator but I feel that nothing comes even close to the real thing. Although it gave me some Good insight into the maneuverability and controlling of my heli. After a couple of hours on the sim I took on the real thing. I was amazed at this little machine totally in my control but soon realized that patience is a virtue. Evidently I lost my main rotor blades in an unfortunate accident. Almost in tears as I knew the accident could've been prevented. Which leads me to a great tip for beginners. Create an imaginary circle in which you will learn to hover. If for one moment you leave that circle, set down and reposition. Believe me it pays of. It's has only been about 15 10min flights and I'm already feeling much more confident in hovering my little beast. I took it outside today and was surprised on the affect a small amount of wind have on a stable hover. It changes everything. The Honey Bee is definitely a wonderful way to enter the RC universe.

Well as this is a ESky Honey bee Problem forum. This is my problem. I will try to illustrate the problem on someone else's picture that I saved from this very forum. They were not available to ask permission and hope that they will not sue me for it or something like that. Just feel that it would be impossible for my to explain my problem without an image.

Surely hope someone out there will understand what I'm trying to say: Here goes nothing.....



The swash-plate has a pin (#1) that seems to keep it from moving all around. It slides in a groove (#2) when you move the aileron forward and backwards. When I opened my package I didn't realize this until further inspection but this pin was not inside the groove. It was outside moving up and down the right outside edge. I carefully moved the servos down and slipped the pin into place. I was pleased with myself that I noticed this and was eager to fly thinking it might be more stable now. To my surprise it did not have any lift at all. At full throttle it sat dead on the ground. Before putting this pin back where it belonged I could easily lift of at half throttle with the trim also set in the middle. It just seemed to drift left a lot (which I thought was normal because of the tail rotor). It seems that the helicopter was set up at the factory with the pin (#1) out of place because it takes of easily when not in the groove (#2). There is a small pin that holds the fuselage in place that goes through a hole (#3) and because of the swash-plate not being in place as it should be the rod connected to the servo (#5) is rubbing against it causing the servo not to return to it's !QUOT!neutral!QUOT! position. That was definitely a mouthful but I've learned from reading the forums that here's some really experienced RC pilots and builders in here. What can I do to fix this?

I wish this was the end of my problems. Well another thing I noticed and I know that this will affect the performance of my heli is that the cable tie (#4) rubs against the main gear and I'm sure that it must put strain on it to some degree even though it still flies. I've learned from the forums that it's all about fine tuning. Would just like to achieve that. A fine tuned flying machine.

Also not visible on the picture I noticed that my 4-in-1 box is slightly skew to the left but I don't know if this will have any effect on the helicopter.

You must be getting really irritated by all my problems but my last problem and definitely not least is that my tail motor revs sometimes instead of keeping a steady speed, jerking the tail from side to side. I noticed this happens mainly when I adjust the aileron to the right for take-off. I also feel the need to keep the right analog stick ( aileron) to the right during hover because if left in neutral the helicopter dives to the left. I believe that this might be because of the pin (#1) out of place as mentioned earlier.

Well that is all for now and I'll be really glad to get all this sorted out to be able to get back to training. I feel that if I keep training on a defective Heli that I might have problems when it's all finely tuned. Better to get it sorted out quickly.

I am looking forward to your replies and will be glad to help any beginners with my experience gained. Feel free to e-mail me with questions or anything regarding Electric RC helis. Would love to see your maiden flight videos or anything similar. My e-mail address I don't usually give out freely but I feel in the RC Universe we are all brothers.... (and sisters I should add)

My email address is [email protected]

Thanks

Kobus_uk

carlosk

MY HB CP2 has different setup. NOR position: Ail, Thr, REV position: ELE, RUD. The helicopter moves in the correct directions according to this setup.

kobus_uk

I have the new Honey Bee.It only arrived in London a couple of weeks ago. I have never flown electric helicopters before but I am already able to hover quite stable. It is indeed a wonderful little machine. I must be hondest that this was only after doing lots and lots and lots of research on the forums and internet, but that is deffinately the best way to learn. Through others' opinions and tips. If it was able to fly perfectly from the beginning it wouldn't have felt like such an amazing achievemet and I wouldn't have been as hooked as I am now!

wheeld

Easy fix. probably same problem as mine factory error 2 washers reversed on each side next to outter bearing for main blades. causes cyclic to stick and no lift off or sudden lift off. small washer should be next to bearing larger on to outside easily seen by looking next to hub of main blades two washers visible smaller one should be on inside. I think all are put in wrong at factory blade copters also.

wheeld

check for 2 washers reversed at factory on each side next to outter bearing. I thing all are reversed at factory. smaller washer should be next to the bearing not the larger one. easy to see if you look. I changed mine this morning on my ;new HB and 100 percent improvment I mean from impossible to control to very good. there are links with pictures on several sites

electron

My Feedback: (1)

Maybe someone on here can help.... First let give a Little history on this project.

I have had an E-sky for a about a year but the 4in1 stopped working only after about an hour of flight. You would give it slight throttle and it would just give full to the tail motor. I have read that this is pretty common and it's the ESC for the tail motor which means the whole 4in1 is fired. Needless to say, to make a long story short I threw it to the side for the last year because of that. Well until I got the itch here lately to try it again so I purchased a GWS 300 3in1 and separate blue bird receiver so I could use my 9C with it. Well I have it all back together now and have started trying to hover again. And I have to say I am doing pretty good, maybe it was that flight simulator time I have put in here lately. Anyway the help I am needing is which way is the right way for the tail to move with your stick movement. I have it set up where if I give the rudder stick right the tail moves left and the nose moves right. Is that right? I new to heli flying so if this is wrong I would rather reverse the servo and learn the other way before I get to used to it. BTW I have it set the same way as the simulator does it and I am used to planes which that is the way they work as well.....

madmark

just wondering i can't adjust the 4-1 mixer on the 2005 honeybee 4 channel FP ,anyone out there got any ideas on where to set the gain and ses. trims the tail seems to spin left or either right.

helmutk

Well you can set the rudder up any way you want and are comfortable with. But yes, typically, right rudder pivots the heli nose to the right and the tail to the left from a rear point of view.

tkopper

hi does anybody know if there are upgraded parts for the esky honeybee mark 2, if so please contact me at [email protected], thanks

zwilldog

i need help i unplugged all of my servo plugs on my receiver and dont remember what goes where can someone look at thier heli and tell me which plugs go where please thank you

zwilldog

i need help i unplugged all of my servo plugs on my receiver and dont remember what goes where can someone look at thier heli and tell me which plugs go where please thank you

USHobbySupply

stock radio?

If so, then
Ch1 = one of the aileron servos
ch2 = front elevator servo
ch 3 = speed controller
ch 4 = gyro
ch 5 = gyro remote gain (if so equiped, stock gyro does not have this i believe)
ch 6 = other aileron servo

If aileron is backwards, switch 1and6

Smoky@2018

Anyone know why on my metal rotorhead the circular part that sits inside the swash plate seems to come back out with ease? I've spoken to the chap at buzzflyer where I bought it and he's said that's what they were like basically bit of a manufacturer fault. Try glueing it he said? How am I suppose to glue it when it turns constantly. Basically when you toggle the servo arms it's gonna come undone mid flight although it's nowhere near ready to take off in fact it's not turning properly where it's not secure.