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Loctite & Instruction Manual question

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Loctite & Instruction Manual question

Old 10-29-2005, 12:21 AM
  #1  
Lowenzahn
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Default Loctite & Instruction Manual question

Quick and easy question. I've worked with other model glues but never loctite. You just spread it all over the bolt or screw you want to glue and then put the pieces together? Is this union permanent? The first step in building my helicopter is to loctite the clutch to the engine, so thats why I'm asking!
Thanks!
Old 10-29-2005, 04:52 AM
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Charlie
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Default RE: Loctite

Is this union permanent?
There are lots of different kinds of loctite so make sure you use the right kind. If you use the wrong kind it will be permanent and you don't want that. You want to use the blue loctite.
Old 10-29-2005, 05:00 AM
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Default RE: Loctite

Lowen,
Don't know if you have easy access to auto parts stores in Algeria but I would guess yes.
The other poster was right.
There are many different types of Loctite.
And yes, there is some that makes it very difficult to get apart.
If you already have the Loctite and it came with your kit you should be good to go.
If not then go to the auto parts store and read the back of a Loctite package. It tells all about the various kinds or do a Google search.
I bet you can find their website.
Also, make sure what you are going to Loctite is clean and free of oil.
I used laquer thinner or some other oil free solvent.
Good luck!
JLK
Old 10-29-2005, 05:40 AM
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ngbninja
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Default RE: Loctite

make sure everything is correct before u apply the loctite because its a ***** to unscrew sometimes.!!
Old 10-29-2005, 06:19 AM
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Lowenzahn
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Default RE: Loctite

Lol I'm not from algeria, but thanks! Germany
Old 10-29-2005, 08:48 AM
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Default RE: Loctite

Use blue locktite.

Clean all threads with alcohol. Many bolts are shipped with a petroleum based protectant on them, you really want to get this off.

Put a DAB of locktite on the bolt and thread it in. Allow all locktite 24 hours to cure properly.

Use only for metal to metal NEVER metal to plastic, nylon or Karbonite such as servo horn screws when the gears are anything but metal. Locktite needs metal to cure and will attack the plastic and weaken it. Most metal to plastic is fine as is but if your concerned and small dab of medium ca.

Make sure not to get locktite into bearings.

Blue locktite is non permanant.

What helicopter are you building? If its a Raptor check out http://www.raptortechnique.com

Andy
Old 10-29-2005, 10:10 AM
  #7  
Lowenzahn
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Default RE: Loctite

Hey thanks for the replies guys but I have another problem that came up. I'm building a Hawk Pro, which is the first helicopter I've ever built and the instructions are confusing the heck outta me. I'm not dumb, but the instructions seem to assume I know a lot about what is going on. I'm stationed in Germany and dont know anyone at the moment that has done this before. The problem I'm encountering now is in Step 3. If you go to step 3 and look at the picture to where "throttle servo" is pointing, you see the plastic piece on top of the servo...I dont have that piece anywhere. All the ones I have are round. I checked every single package both from the radio and in the kit and found nothing like it. Also if you look at the same picture where your supposed to screw in the collective and throttle servos, there is nothing to screw the screws in. I figured easy enough, there must be some nuts in this kit, but all the nuts in the kit have an equal amount of screws to go with them so that I'm assuming are for another part. Do I need to order some nuts now?
Other than that everything has been going ok, other than I still have to loctite the engine parts like the manual says, I seem to have overlooked getting a crankshaft nut wrench...
The manual is online here: http://www.centuryheli.com/support/m...n1000c_web.pdf

Thanks ahead of time!

Dan
Old 10-29-2005, 11:31 AM
  #8  
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Default RE: Loctite

First, nix the red locktite idea, you will need a crow bar to get the damn thing off if it breaks.

2nd, for the love of god DO NOT USE that piston lock tool they show. Use a tooth brush, pull the carb and rotate the crank till you see the hole, put the tooth brush handle (best to use the wifes) in there to jam the crank while you tighten the prop nut.

According the the parts break down there should be some metric self threading screws to mount the servos. You can use a round arm on the throttle but most servos have a hard ware package with different arms that you can use.
Old 10-29-2005, 11:49 AM
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Lowenzahn
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

Maybe I'm not getting it how to mount the servos, because the problem that I'm having is that the cutout for the servo screws is a sideways U shape, so there is nothing to thread the screw into, or even to make my own hole. I'll not use the piston lock tool, and make sure to use the blue loctite. Is it supposed to be jelly-like and only 1/3 of the bottle full? Its not what I expected thats for sure. Theres also different arms for the servo but none like in the picture. Most are + shaped and one is even adjustable. Once I figure out the servo mounting thing I'll be truckin along again. Thanks for the help!

Dan
Old 10-29-2005, 01:11 PM
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

The correct locktite should be much like the consistency of skim milk, a little thicker than water but not much.

As for the servo arms, the one they show is made by taking the cross and cutting off the 3 arms that you don't use. Don't cut any till your ready for final control rod adjustment.

As for mounting the servos, there should be some plastic pieces about 10 mm long x 1 or 2 mm wide with two holes in them. They make the backing for the self tapping screws to screw into. One would go on each side of the servo and the holes in the plastic should line up over the holes in the servo. If you need a picture let me know but after you sort the parts out they should be obvious. I've never built a Century heli so I'm flying blind here.
Old 10-29-2005, 01:41 PM
  #11  
Lowenzahn
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

It worked but I had to drill the holes a bit larger for the screw to be able to pass through. As far as the loctite goes, can I thin that stuff out with some water because its so thick?
Thanks!

Dan
Old 10-29-2005, 06:06 PM
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Lowenzahn
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

Hmm, and with the Gyro, I have the PG2000 from century and the directions say "slide it in place". Thats rather vague. The Gyro came with a 1 square inch piece of double sided foam tape, is that what I should use to secure it?
Old 10-30-2005, 12:26 AM
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

Yes the gyro gets secured with double side tape. Clean both surfaces with alcohol and let it dry before affixing anything.
Old 10-30-2005, 03:24 PM
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Lowenzahn
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

Thanks for the help barracuda, its going along nicely. I made it to step 6 and I have to call it a night. Hopefully I'll have it finished by the end of the week! Setup is going to take me at least as long as building it though...

Dan
Old 10-30-2005, 03:37 PM
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

Glad its working out for you, let us know how its going.
Old 10-30-2005, 03:39 PM
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

Hah, building is the easy part..

It's setup and fine tuning that takes months.
Old 10-30-2005, 03:53 PM
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question


ORIGINAL: credence


It's setup and fine tuning that takes months.
It only takes months if you live in Canada and your flying season is your 3 day long summer!
Old 10-31-2005, 03:59 AM
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

I have another question! In the fuel part assembly it says that you need to use a zip tie, wich is no problem. The question that arises is how do you fill the tank with fuel if its zip tied? Do I need to keep a bunch on hand or does it slide off easily?

The only thing I'm hating so far about this helicopter is the manual. Its super vague and has errors in it. For mounting the rear servo it tells you to use a 25mm screw which is obviously way to short. After messing with it for a while I finally went to the same screw just 30mm long.
But when the word battery is spelled bettery in large font on the 3rd page, what can ya expect? Hah! I'll keep you posted on the progress!

Oh, also a quick fuel question. Can I mix 30% fuel by myself by mixing 2 stroke engine oil with unleaded 3 to 7? Is that how it works? I have a place to buy it if I need to but this seems like it would be just as easy if thats how it works. Thanks!

Dan
Old 10-31-2005, 08:48 AM
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

As for the fuel lines, slide the fuel line on to the nipple of the tank or stopper and use a small zip tie over that to ensure that the line doesnt slip off the nipple, not to close off the fuel line. Between the tank and the engine you will need to cut that line and put in a inline fuel filter. On the engine side zip tie it, on the tank side leave it be. Thats where you will pull the line off to pump fuel into the tank. There's some metal spring clips you can get that slip over the line and do the same thing, IMO they are the way to go as you can loosen them with your fingers to replace the fuel lines or do maintence at the field without cutting and replacing zippy ties.

As for the fuel they are refering to the nitro methane content. You don't need 30 percent, 15 or 20 is fine. They also arent talking gasoline but model fuel which is alcohol, lubricant (synthetic is prefered or castor) and nitro. When you ask for 15 or 20 you are referring to the nitro percentage. The higher nitro the more expensive. No gasoline in model engines.
Old 10-31-2005, 10:01 AM
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Lowenzahn
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

Yeah, I figured it wasnt regular gasoline. Luckily I have a fuel supplier near me. Also I dont believe my kit came with a fuel filter, should I put that on the top of my list of things to get?
Thanks so much for the help cuda, I would'nt be able to complete this without your help!

Dan
Old 10-31-2005, 10:51 AM
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question


ORIGINAL: Lowenzahn

Yeah, I figured it wasnt regular gasoline. Luckily I have a fuel supplier near me. Also I dont believe my kit came with a fuel filter, should I put that on the top of my list of things to get?
Thanks so much for the help cuda, I would'nt be able to complete this without your help!

Dan
Yes get a fuel filter.

You would so be able to finish it. It would just look kinda funny with the tail rotor mounted on the nose.
Old 11-01-2005, 03:56 AM
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Lowenzahn
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

Another quick question! As I'm nearing the completion of my model I realized that I never had to use any JB Weld which is in the required stuff column on the first few pages. Do I need to use that for something? The manual doesent make any more references to it other than that first one.
I think I used the wrong screw lengths for a few parts because I'm coming up short, and I lost one of my 3mm locknuts (dropped it on the floor and it vanished!) so I ordered the Hawk Pro replacement screw kit I'll double check everything once it is done and see if I can change some screws around.

Is there a good site that gives instructions on how to actually start your helicopter? My starter kit might have instructions but I'm not 100% (left it at home). I'm TDY and staying in a hotel at the moment so its pretty funny with my helicopter in there. It takes up half my room hehe. The maid is probably thinking ***?
Peace!

Dan
Old 11-01-2005, 08:00 AM
  #23  
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

TDY ah I remember those days. Anchorage was awesome, I really need to get back to the Sour Dough Mining Company some day.

JB Weld is for putting things back together after your first crash!

Seriously the only two places I use jbw is to install a new clutch liner and pressure nipples on mufflers. If your kit came with the clutch liner pre-installed (most do) then its likely you won't need it till you burn a clutch. Also I unscrew the pressure nipple from the mufler and put a dab of JBW on the thread and reinstall it.
Old 11-01-2005, 09:53 AM
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Lowenzahn
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

Nipple! I put a bit of blue loctite on that like the manual prescribed. Should I pull it back off and use the JB weld?
Old 11-01-2005, 10:06 AM
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Default RE: Loctite & Instruction Manual question

Yea, locktite will liquify and be useless under muffler heat. Don't bother with it on the muffler bolts either.

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