Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I can't see how a Dynatron could have trouble turning over an .80. I run my Sullivan Dynatron with a 275 amp garden tractor battery, $20.78 at NAPA, it turns my older high compression Saito 150 and Laser 180 V-twin over like they were 25's. The battery will start engines, supply glow power and run my ACE Super Smart Charger for entire weekend. I have thought about running a cord from my cigarette lighter socket to charge the batt. on trips but have found not it unnecessary.

japan3d

It seems like all you guys are running YS 80's.
I have one installed in a Freya and when I go to lean out the engine the plug gets burnt out. If run rich to keep the plug for more then one flight its has no power. Whats a good needle position for the hover and hi speed needles? Engine currently has about 20 minutes running time.

Guess I should have waited for the hobby shop to recieve the OS .91. They sent them to the states first.

Lift

My Feedback: (1)

Ya'll skipped right over RickC's suggestion. I can't believe I actually read through 50 posts about what starter and haven't said anything yet.

I am using a Torquemaster 180 with twin 7.2v 1500mah RC car battery packs. It starts my YS .61, buddies OS .91 & YS .80 without even thinking of bogging. Heck, it even turned over Moki 1.80 planker no problem. And those guys are high compression!

I think Hobbico is the manuf but I could be wrong. All I know is it is the Torquemaster 180. I have over 2yrs on mine and no issues so far.

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

My YS80 after only a handfull of successfull starts has started to rust !! I first saw the rust deposited on a brand new glow plug, the plug was full of it ! i opened the head, ... more rust .. I flushed the engine with after run oil, and the oil came out brown and rusty, instead of clear and pink like before i put it in the engine. I have stored, maintained, ran the engine correctly, I have over a dozen glow engines of all shapes and sizes, i also fly gasoline engines and turbines .. I know what im doing here, and i know the rust is not something i did to the engine.... The thing has been a real b&%$ to start from the first place .. I am finding out how I can return this piece of sh#% and I will stick with OS like i should have ...


Wojtek

Lift

My Feedback: (1)

wiwanczyk,
Easy fella! You got one of if not the best engines out. Let me ask you this:
1) Do you drain ALL the fuel from your tanks after flying?
2) Do you burn the remaining fuel from you motor after flying?
3) Do you store your heli in a humid atmospher like the garage or non air condition room?


I know you said you have plenty of glow experience but I just wanted to return to the basics first. I have never had rust problems on any of my glow motors. I NEVER leave my models in any place that is not air conditioned! I live down 45 mins from the Gulf Coast and our humidity level is always 95% or greater. I see alot of pics online of guys hanging their models up in the garage. BAD IDEA!!!!

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

- always drain the tank
- heli stays in my office at a temp of 77 or lower
- always use after run oil
- i cant burn excess fuel out of it because it does not want to start ...

I feel like im out of options or solutions but to return the engine... I have an os 60 that has been in the grage all summer (hot and humid) just laying there, and not a spot of rust, and still like new ...



Wojtek

Lift

My Feedback: (1)

If you haven't been able to get the engine to start then you probably got fuel sitting inside the motor attracting moisture. That's fine if it doesn't sit to long AND in dry air. But, if you have fuel in the motor and it's been sitting for awhile then even AC can't help you.

My experience has been that if work or other obligations keep me away from the airfield for an extended period of time then I pull the glow plug and work some afterrun in there and spin the motor over with starter. And, if it sits longer than a month I pull then engine fill it with afterun and put it in a Zip lock baggie.

May seem like alot of trouble but after ruining a couple of OS motors I learned my lesson.

Now that I am flying at least 3 times a week all's good!!

Dazzler

My Feedback: (6)

wiwanczyk, what kind of fuel are you using, I use to get rust when I used Red max fuel, I'm using wildcat Helimix fuel, with no rust problems, and it runs great.

japan3d, my needle for hover is 1 and 1/4 turn out from fully closed, high end is 3/4 turn out from fully closed. Havent had to change a plug in quite awhile.

I purchased the Dynatron today ffrom my LHS, hopefully I am through buying starters for the year, hopefully for a long time to come. Daz...

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

im using Cool Power 15% ...



Wojtek

Furyflyer2

My Feedback: (117)

The cool power I believe only has 15% oil and it very thin, it may be attracting moister. I have the same engine and it sits in my basement and their is no rust and I don't run the engine dry ether.

Dazzler

My Feedback: (6)

wiwanczyk, you said you cant burn excess fuel out of the tank because of the starting issue, I use an HPI fuel clamp, it goes on your fuel carb line, and when your ready to cut engine off you just press the clamp together, it stays clamped until you release it with the release tab, you dont have to hold the clamp until the fuel runs out, and no fuel is fed into the carb, and the engine shuts off, no fuel in carb. Daz...

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

cool power is actually one of the better fuels out there .. I also use after run oil every time .. My OS and Saito engines sure don't seem to have a problem ...

im just really grustrated here and hope YS comes through on this one with their warranty service ..

Wojtek

Furyflyer2

My Feedback: (117)

I'm using WildCat , I have no rust , I use in all my engines YS 80 ,YS 91FS , YS120 FS and OS's.

Dazzler

My Feedback: (6)

Here is alink to the fuel stopper. Daz...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXAYR4&P=7

manilaheli

Back to the original question, even a plain jane starter built for 60 size helis will crank a monster engine as long as you connect it to 2 R/C car packs that allow the battery to dump the amps faster than any lead acid or gell cell ever can. Even my really old sullivan hi-tork (non dynatron) can turn a 80 or 90 as long as your battery is fully charged. If not, the r/c car packs will do the trick.

Right now, I'm using a Thunder Tiger hi torque airplane starter, just because it was easier to mount r/c car packs to it compared to the sullivan starters. Plus, everybody on the field uses my starter since it's now cordless and it lasts a whole week on a single charge.

As for the YS80, I still prefer it to the OS91, no lean-out all throughout the flight even with low fuel, smooth, consistent and requires less needle adjustments as is usually needed with OS depending on the weather. Once OS gets a better carburator on it, I would've been willing to try it, but the YS91 is just around the corner so... duhhh.

I've had 20 gallons through my setup with NO rust, and I only changed the plug ONCE after the 12th gallon. I always use Magna (a.k.a. CP30%) on it and it gets really soaked with oil after a good thrashing around in the sky.

BTW, I am also using the stock throttle barrel as I haven't experienced the alleged "burp" some have mentioned when transitioning inverted as I prefer to keep the GV-1 off to save fuel when doing 3D.

japan3d

My old trusty sullivan hi tork turns over my YS 80 and a BGX-1 using a small car battery.

Dazzler

My Feedback: (6)

The dynatron I bought today turned over the YS80 with no problem, and I'm using my std. 12 volt field battery. I think this is the ticket, I dont like carrying a motorcycle battery to the field. Daz...

Ergo60

My Feedback: (1)

I am running Wildcat 30% and I have NEVER ran the engine dry after flying. Lately I have been only flying twice a week, and none of my engine have show signs of any rust. They are stored outside in my pole barn, not heated or climate controled in any way. The only thing I do is drain the tanks. The only time I use any kind of after run oil is before the winter, and then I run the engine dry and load it up with the oil for long term (4-5 months) storage.

Dazzler

My Feedback: (6)

I recieved my new replacement Magnum starter today back from Global hobby. I notice they changed the rubber piece to a red cone instead of the white one I originnally had, I wonder if this means its an updated model. The red starter cone now looks like it will be a perfect fit for my starter shaft too.

I now have the dynatron for the YS80 which is great, I plan on using this magnum starter for everything else but the YS 80. Daz...

Furyflyer2

My Feedback: (117)

I'm still waiting for mine to come back.

Dazzler

My Feedback: (6)

furyflyer, you should be getting yours back soon. Most of the time I waited was shipping time, as it took 4 days to go from ohio to Cally, and then back, and they shipped it back UPS ground, which is 4 days. Daz...

AndreyK

i've been using Sullivan starter for about 6 months with no problems at all.

Cougar-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

duelist
Yeppers , thats a great started. always faithful! (24v)
~S~
Jeff

electron

My Feedback: (1)

I bought one but I paid 39.99 not 30.00 either way this is the best starter I have ever seen for the size and bang for the buck this thing rocks. I started my magnum (no pun intended) 1.80 with no problem. I just can't belive how powerfull this little starter is.

KC36330

digging up a bit of an old thread there but while your on it again, I've got a Dynatron that is 8+ yrs old and it'll crank my 3.0 ci gassers with authority, if you fuel lock a 40 sized engine it'll break the con rod on 24 volts.

kc