**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
09-11-2002, 02:19 PM
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Re: Antirotation Guide
Originally posted by Phoenix-IT
You might try finding a Dremmel bit just slightly larger than the arm coming off the swashplate. Use that to open up the slot in the guide and it should only take you a couple of minutes... hehe the knife would take a while I imagine.
I'm waiting to hear how this thing flies... I've heard lots about the manufacturer but have only known one person who has flown one... so it will be interesting to hear another opinion.
Phoenix
You might try finding a Dremmel bit just slightly larger than the arm coming off the swashplate. Use that to open up the slot in the guide and it should only take you a couple of minutes... hehe the knife would take a while I imagine.
I'm waiting to hear how this thing flies... I've heard lots about the manufacturer but have only known one person who has flown one... so it will be interesting to hear another opinion.
Phoenix
09-12-2002, 04:20 PM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
Keep us posted please, I am very interested in the quality and seeing the flying characteristics of this heli. I saw it a while back at a heli show, it was quite impressive looking design. Pretty much already upgraded.
09-12-2002, 04:32 PM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
I have hand numerous people stop by and check it out, all could not believe the quality of the parts, everything fits perfect. I have all the main mechanics done i'm just awaiting the gyro and receiver etc. to come then it's ready to fly. So far I have about 2 hours in the heli.
09-13-2002, 07:09 PM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
I've got 85% of the heli built all that is left is to hook up servos ,linkages and mount canopy etc. Should have it flying next week. Right now it weights about 6lbs with no canopy or rec and no battery.
09-16-2002, 02:03 AM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
Originally posted by Furyflyer2
Here is a pic of the installed swash plate and wash out. The ball link are tight and need to be sized.
2nd problem , the anti-rotation pin on the swash plate that slides up and down the anti-rotation bracket is VERY TIGHT. I will have to use and knife to open up the slot to allow the swash plate to move freely up and down.
Here is a pic of the installed swash plate and wash out. The ball link are tight and need to be sized.
2nd problem , the anti-rotation pin on the swash plate that slides up and down the anti-rotation bracket is VERY TIGHT. I will have to use and knife to open up the slot to allow the swash plate to move freely up and down.
Here's another close up shot.
09-18-2002, 01:45 AM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
Here is a pic of the completed clutch and bearing assembly. Everything fix perfect and operated smoothly. The only thing I did not like was it only uses one set screw to hold the start shaft adapter on.
09-18-2002, 01:48 AM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
Here is the whole thing assembled in the frames. You have to pull out the main needled in order to slide the engine between the frames.
Time 10 min
Time 10 min
09-18-2002, 01:50 AM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
You must install the fan shroud before the engine can be installed between the frames. The hole were very tight , had to use a pointy screw in order to attach the fan shroud.
09-18-2002, 01:51 AM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
Another pic. The gear mesh was easy to setup I just slide a piece of paper through the gear. the gear runs very true and seams to have no high spots.
09-18-2002, 01:55 AM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
Here is the completed rotor head with links. Nothing out of the ordinary , the head is silky smooth no slop.
I did find one problem,the hub rocks back and forth pivoting on the Jesus bolt. This is due to the fact that their is no slot on ether side to allow for it to camp the shaft. If you tighten the blot enough you can almost eliminate it , It's not a major problem but it should be re-machined.
I did find one problem,the hub rocks back and forth pivoting on the Jesus bolt. This is due to the fact that their is no slot on ether side to allow for it to camp the shaft. If you tighten the blot enough you can almost eliminate it , It's not a major problem but it should be re-machined.
09-18-2002, 02:08 AM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
The engine and servo installed with just the gyro ,battery and receiver to go. The muffler is a HHI KS&J knock off.
What you see in the pic plus the assembled tail boom and tail assembly is(typo) 6lbs. This model should come in about 6 lbs flying weight.
What you see in the pic plus the assembled tail boom and tail assembly is(typo) 6lbs. This model should come in about 6 lbs flying weight.
09-18-2002, 11:54 AM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
Ewww.... I was starting to wonder if I might be interested in one... but I personally don't like that CCPM setup. The way the elevator servo is mounted inside like that, my logo 10 was the same way.... a real pain in the arse to change/adjust....
I (personally) don't want any CCPM setup that's not on bell cranks, like the Caliber 30 or Logo 20. Servos-to-the-swash have allot of interaction that needs to be dialed out in the radio... took allot of mixing to get my Venture to fall knife-edge without twisting on the way down, and I never could get a perfectly clean vertical climbout.
Ah... My first 2 were CCPM and it took until I bought my 3rd one to finally try mechanical mixing... wish I had bought it 1st.
Let us know how long all the trimming and mixing takes to get clean flying.
I (personally) don't want any CCPM setup that's not on bell cranks, like the Caliber 30 or Logo 20. Servos-to-the-swash have allot of interaction that needs to be dialed out in the radio... took allot of mixing to get my Venture to fall knife-edge without twisting on the way down, and I never could get a perfectly clean vertical climbout.
Ah... My first 2 were CCPM and it took until I bought my 3rd one to finally try mechanical mixing... wish I had bought it 1st.
Let us know how long all the trimming and mixing takes to get clean flying.
09-18-2002, 12:09 PM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
Originally posted by Phoenix-IT
Ewww.... I was starting to wonder if I might be interested in one... but I personally don't like that CCPM setup. The way the elevator servo is mounted inside like that, my logo 10 was the same way.... a real pain in the arse to change/adjust....
I (personally) don't want any CCPM setup that's not on bell cranks, like the Caliber 30 or Logo 20. Servos-to-the-swash have allot of interaction that needs to be dialed out in the radio... took allot of mixing to get my Venture to fall knife-edge without twisting on the way down, and I never could get a perfectly clean vertical climbout.
Ah... My first 2 were CCPM and it took until I bought my 3rd one to finally try mechanical mixing... wish I had bought it 1st.
Let us know how long all the trimming and mixing takes to get clean flying.
Ewww.... I was starting to wonder if I might be interested in one... but I personally don't like that CCPM setup. The way the elevator servo is mounted inside like that, my logo 10 was the same way.... a real pain in the arse to change/adjust....
I (personally) don't want any CCPM setup that's not on bell cranks, like the Caliber 30 or Logo 20. Servos-to-the-swash have allot of interaction that needs to be dialed out in the radio... took allot of mixing to get my Venture to fall knife-edge without twisting on the way down, and I never could get a perfectly clean vertical climbout.
Ah... My first 2 were CCPM and it took until I bought my 3rd one to finally try mechanical mixing... wish I had bought it 1st.
Let us know how long all the trimming and mixing takes to get clean flying.
Having owned the Caliber,Fury,and having flown the Venture. I found this set-up super easy. I can't see any interaction when I move the collective, will see how it is when I fly it. Their should be no difference in interaction with bell cranks verse without, if anything their could be more interaction if the geometry is not correct ie Fury.The direct servo only requires a longer servo arm. I personally prefer this set-up over bell cranks it has so much less slop. Yes it is a pain you do have to remove one side of the frame to remove the servo's but it would take 5 min tops to do that. My friend Logo 10 works perfect with the direct CCPM , the only problem was that he had to drill the holes for servo perfectly in order to eliminate any interaction.
09-18-2002, 12:33 PM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
The interaction I am referring to comes from the push rod not staying vertical throughout the range of the servo's movement... The bell cranks have allot less of this off-center movement. I noticed it, and thought it might just be me until I read the exact same thing in an issue of Rotory.
Eh... I like mechanical mixing anyway.... build it... couple of clicks of trim and everything is perfect.
Do they make Quick's with mechanical mixing?
Eh... I like mechanical mixing anyway.... build it... couple of clicks of trim and everything is perfect.
Do they make Quick's with mechanical mixing?
09-18-2002, 01:21 PM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
Originally posted by Phoenix-IT
The interaction I am referring to comes from the push rod not staying vertical throughout the range of the servo's movement... The bell cranks have allot less of this off-center movement. I noticed it, and thought it might just be me until I read the exact same thing in an issue of Rotory.
Eh... I like mechanical mixing anyway.... build it... couple of clicks of trim and everything is perfect.
Do they make Quick's with mechanical mixing?
The interaction I am referring to comes from the push rod not staying vertical throughout the range of the servo's movement... The bell cranks have allot less of this off-center movement. I noticed it, and thought it might just be me until I read the exact same thing in an issue of Rotory.
Eh... I like mechanical mixing anyway.... build it... couple of clicks of trim and everything is perfect.
Do they make Quick's with mechanical mixing?
Just a little stab at Mike Moss's article in Rotory (I do'nt have the article in front of me but I remember the just of it) he said that no competition pilots would use CCPM (do to all the interaction), boy was he wrong.
"am referring to comes from the push rod not staying vertical throughout the range of the servo's movement.."
This is a non-linear movement. since all the servo's are direct the movement is all the same , the bell crank system may have two bell cranks moving the same but one will be moving in a different arc. Like on the fury ,the elevator crank introduces interaction. Regardless of the use of bell cranks or not no servo is linear , you can cheat that but using expo to get as close to linear as possible. Quick does not have a mechanical mixing like most everything else their are pros and cons.
09-18-2002, 01:35 PM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
Yep, I know everything has pro's and con's... I'm not saying CCPM is bad or that the Quick is not good because it has CCPM.
I'm saying that I prefer mechanical.... easier to trim.
I know competition pilots use CCPM... but don't the pattern guys prefer mechanical for the cleaner tracking in flight?
PSST: I was so impressed with Kirk's review of the Hawk Sport that I decided to try one..... don't tell him though... if he knows he actually influenced a purchase decision he may get a big head.
I want to see if all the bad things I hear about Century is just a bunch of hype. I checked the prices on parts and Century is just as inexpensive to repair as Hirobo. Only difference being that I'll have to order replacement parts.... not a big deal if you order the crash kits 3 at a time though.
I'm saying that I prefer mechanical.... easier to trim.
I know competition pilots use CCPM... but don't the pattern guys prefer mechanical for the cleaner tracking in flight?
PSST: I was so impressed with Kirk's review of the Hawk Sport that I decided to try one..... don't tell him though... if he knows he actually influenced a purchase decision he may get a big head.
I want to see if all the bad things I hear about Century is just a bunch of hype. I checked the prices on parts and Century is just as inexpensive to repair as Hirobo. Only difference being that I'll have to order replacement parts.... not a big deal if you order the crash kits 3 at a time though.
09-18-2002, 01:42 PM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
Originally posted by Phoenix-IT
I'm saying that I prefer mechanical.... easier to trim.
I'm saying that I prefer mechanical.... easier to trim.
09-19-2002, 11:44 PM
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Re: Questions?
Originally posted by syclic
So has it flown yet?
What is its weight ready to fly without fuel?
What was the cost with muffler and blades?
How long did it take to build?
So has it flown yet?
What is its weight ready to fly without fuel?
What was the cost with muffler and blades?
How long did it take to build?
The muffler is about 70.00 and the blades are 60.00.
09-20-2002, 12:58 AM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
Have the instructions been changed to include info. about correctly setting the Phase angle?
Your links look to be pretty short on the CCPM servos, what distance does the manual reccomend?
Are all the thrust bearings in the rotorhead still the same size? The one I helped build about a year ago had both the inner & outter ID's the same. A phone call to the mfgr. confirmed that they were intended that way. they seemed to work but were/are not the norm with the inner one usually having a larger ID.
As part of your review might I suggest that you order three mainshafts and three tail rotor shafts about two months after you rec'd the kit. After you rec. the parts compare the lengths and hole position dimensions to the shafts that you rec's in the kit. The person that I helped, ordered replacement parts that had the holes in slightly different positions which caused changes to the gyro and pitch settings in the head. just wondering if that was still an issue.
Vince D
Your links look to be pretty short on the CCPM servos, what distance does the manual reccomend?
Are all the thrust bearings in the rotorhead still the same size? The one I helped build about a year ago had both the inner & outter ID's the same. A phone call to the mfgr. confirmed that they were intended that way. they seemed to work but were/are not the norm with the inner one usually having a larger ID.
As part of your review might I suggest that you order three mainshafts and three tail rotor shafts about two months after you rec'd the kit. After you rec. the parts compare the lengths and hole position dimensions to the shafts that you rec's in the kit. The person that I helped, ordered replacement parts that had the holes in slightly different positions which caused changes to the gyro and pitch settings in the head. just wondering if that was still an issue.
Vince D
09-20-2002, 01:17 AM
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**Quick Worldwide-Quick Learner REVIEW**
Q-Have the instructions been changed to include info. about correctly setting the Phase angle?
A-Phasing ? I don't think phasing can occur with the use of the anti rotation bracket.The arms shown are to short I will be replacing them with longer ones to allow the rod to be 90 deg of the servo arm.
Q-Are all the thrust bearings in the rotor-head still the same size?
A-Their are no thrust bearings in the learner kit.
A-Phasing ? I don't think phasing can occur with the use of the anti rotation bracket.The arms shown are to short I will be replacing them with longer ones to allow the rod to be 90 deg of the servo arm.
Q-Are all the thrust bearings in the rotor-head still the same size?
A-Their are no thrust bearings in the learner kit.