evan-RCU

I agree Dave. I only fly helos at my club field, or did until this weekend when they closed it because of a methane leak (it's built on a county land fill). The Trex is so easy to use, I charge it after I fly and do a top off before I leave for the field, I walk to the flight area with the Trex and my transmitter in one hand, clip up take off the blade holder, plug in the battery and fly. So simple so easy, great if I'm ouot running errands and just want a quick flight. FYI I have the timer set to 5 minutes from when I turn on the transmitter so I am doing around 4 minute flights of soft 3D.

What's not good is if I'm going to the field for the day. I can fly for the 5 minutes but then have to charge so I have to fly something in the mean while, nitro helo or an airplane, so I end up taking all the flight box stuff with me... If I had a handfull of batteries that would be different but I get bored flying only one thing anyway.

I find that the Trex takes up a lot of space, doing pumps, or doing left to right/ right to left long rolls it picks up speed pretty fast, it' actually amazing how fast it can go and how stable it is.

You say it's not twitchy but I find that if I get nervous and my thimbs are shaking you can hear it in the rudder!!! Maybe not twitchy but very sensitive.... not a bad thing.

I still can't get over the pirouette rate I have with the Trex....

credence

My Feedback: (2)

This is where a lot of people who fly a micro like the t-rex after previously flying a larger bird run into problems I think. A t-rex 450 that's setup correctly is not a twitchy machine by any stretch of the imagination. They fly easily as stable as most .30 sized machines in a hover. The difference is in the extreme and instant response the cyclic and collective have on the model compared to a bigger machine. They are very sensitive and very aggressive if not toned down, which, if you're used to flying relatively sluggish (in comparison) models like larger nitro or electric birds, the smaller models definitely DO feel "twitchy".

In other words, it's not the model, it's the pilot!! Aggressive micros like the T-rex really do help you become a better pilot by forcing you to be lighter on the sticks. Makes you better at both planes and helis in my experience. Thanks to heli flying I almost never use expo on any models I fly with the exception of a Giles G-202 I flew for awhile which had a roll rate so fast it was ridiculous..

chazdraves

^--- Here's to that! I picked up my first plane ever a few weeks ago (Airfoilz Yak 54) and I was practicing hovers by my third day flying it. I'd never flown a plane before (save simulator), but the experience from my REX transfered very well.

- Chaz

evan-RCU

I agree, I tried a helo for the first time on a bet, bought a used one and was doing 3D the first week end.

No simulators back then though... or at least I didn't have one....

calvino

Wow, lots of stuff to read. I have a semi large backyard with lots of trees on the outside edges and in a corner[>:[] I am lucky that there is a large field not to far from my house that I could fly at. I think the only people I would annoy would be a few ground squirrels, gophers... Also, are most nitro's ARF or are there some (not so pricy) RTF's out there???? I want to save some money for upgrades, purchasing a nitro MT... I know that LIPO's are just down right expensive (if you go the elec. route). I am not so much into "3d stunts" as I am into a platfrom that could have a cammera on board (mayne with experence), use in silly home movies... That was my thought. i was considering the Blade CP Pro or the Axe CP but am a little woried that the small size, weight... may make it very wind sensitive With a nitro, when you throttle down the engine, does the main blades stop or are they still spinning, and how does one cut out a nitro engine with out killing himself (when mom tells ya it is time for dinner and you still have a tank of fuel...)??? Some good questions to ponder and reply to, thanks for all the posts (just have to find the time to read through them all) mini t

badazzbusa

My Feedback: (1)

A nitro has a clutch in it, the blades won't be engaged until you give it some throttle. You can land and put the throttle back to idle and stop the blades while it is running. You have to put the palm of your hand on the button on top the blades or it will take forever. They have a engine cut off switch or some people just use the trim to close off the throttle.

calvino

yeah, I think remote shut down is a good option if the heli is bursting into flames... With your average heli (nitro) eingine, how long can I expect it to last with all the proper steps taken (after run, proper tuning)??? i think I need to invent a remote blade spin stopper

chazdraves

You should expect it to last a very long time if you take good care of it, I wouldn't be worried about that.

If you intend to mount a camera to it, I think a Blade would be an awful idea. I apologize for coming off harshly, but they're all so unstable that you'd throw up watching the footage. A nitro would be well suited, but the vibration is definitely a factor that you wouldn't have if you mounted it to a large electric. I'm hooked on electrics, so I'll be the first to point out my horrible bias.

Either way, just make sure you get something you'll have fun with.

- Chaz

calvino

yeah, u have a point. I think it is all personal opinion. i am so fed up with my stupid blade and 3 min flights this is why I am asking what is better. What elec's do you fly???

chazdraves

I personally have a TREX450SE. I have, however, spent a good deal of time flying (aggressively flying) a TREX 600, TREX 450SA, MX400, Shogun, Blade CPP, and the little Blade CX/CX2 (in addition to many nitros and gassers). Out of any of them, I'd take a 600. However, you may want to check the thread "Hurricane 550". It looks like it could be quite the heli, and it'd be a great platform for a camera. Li-Po's are expensive, and there are no two ways about it, but you have to look at it as fuel up front. If you average it out over 200 charges, it's comparable to nitro costs (some would go so far as to say cheaper, but I'm not starting that fight).

Merely my $.02,
- Chaz

calvino

yeah, I could see how where you purchase a lipo, use a lipo... would affect the outcome of the cost war. I know that LIPO's are not so great on the number of charging and draining cycles are that they can take (prety low, $$$$$$$$ for a new one) I think it is better to have a nitro and an elec. so if you only have time for an elec flight then go that way, it you have the time to do the nitro do the nitro... Just my pointless idea.

chazdraves

Fair enough. As I understand, a number of new Li-Po's are coming with 300-cycle/3-year warranties or similar. And, for something like my REX 450, they can be had for as reasonably as $48. I run 2 chargers (CellPro 4S) and 5 batteries. The 5 batteries is only a coincidence as I really just need 3, but those numbers allow me to keep my chopper up with very little down time. I know that's always been a strong argument for the nitro/fuel guys. I just don't care for the mess, noise, and kit that goes along with nitro.

But! I'm going to step back now and dismount my little soap box. I said earlier that you should get something you enjoy. That is key. I am personally very certain of my preference, but I'm no more right than anyone who prefers nitro. Take some time to become familiar with the models and their pricing. Read the reviews here at RCU as well as some of the build threads around the boards. Also, be certain to see what's most supported at your local fields and hobby shops.

Just my opinion,
- Chaz

credence

My Feedback: (2)

Just about any LIPO will be good up to 500 cycles and still retain 80% capacity. The catch is, you only get that 500 cycles when used at reasonable discharge rates (i.e 1C or less). If you ever look at lithium specs and tests, it's always done with a 1C rate or less, this is why all the LIPO MFG's can claim 500 cycles, because at 1C, the batteries last a very long time.

We really abuse our batteries, and even the best lipo from the best manufacturer, if constantly discharged at 15 or 20C rates, will only see 100 cycles, 150 - 200 if you're lucky and really treat the packs well.

AeroDave

years. its gonna last years. You will be really really tired of it long before it wears out. You can ruin it in a day. But with a little care, and I mean a little, it will last longer than you want it to.

chazdraves

Emphasis on *very* little. A buddy of mine had a plane engine stowed in his garage for over 10 years. He was about 11 when he first flew it and decided to leave it be. He never used after-run, he never cleaned it out, and he never took any care to cover it up in his garage, but 10 years later, all it took to start was a little bit of steel wool and a new glow plug.

Dan: 150-200 cycles even with a balancer? I guess one of these times I should keep track.

- Chaz

calvino

I know that with my CX I would not push the battery at all as I did not want to spend like $25 for a new LIPO. With all batteries (especally in heli's) you can't really determine the discharge rates because the instant that you lower power to the thing, it will loose altitude... With the proper procedures I can see how the engine could last for a while.

tadawson

Most nitros (the good ones, anyway . . . ) are BIY - Build It Yourself, and although there are some ARFs, pretty much any smart pilot will totally strip and rebuild an ARF anyway (helis at least) since they usually do a half-assed job of assembly anyhow . . . .

- Tim

calvino

Yeah, plus with the knowledge of how it is built, if you get into a large crash you would have a knowledge of how to get the thing back together again. I am interested if this is a good deal at a Hobby People in Camarillo, $430 for a Raptor 30 V2 with pre installed PRO-39H engine. That also includes the fuel tank and exhaust. Is this worth talking to my dad about purchasing or am I better off purchasing a frame new with no motor??? Just currious since alot of you are older than me and have lots more experence with flying these heli's. Also, is flying a CP heli similar to flying a fixed pitch heli or is there a significant difference in climbing rates, speed... because with my heli I would have to take off with about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and hover at around 1/3 throttle. Just currous, thanks for all the posting, Mini T

evan-RCU

Not bad,,, but a OS 50 hyper is $200 and a Knight 50 is $260. This would be a better all around helo. You do have to buy a muffler and blades seperately but it still would be better though a bit more money....

calvino

Yeah, I am kindof a cheap guy so that is why I was interested in the heli with the installed motor.... Also, are the Carbon blades wortht he money

Rafael23cc

My Feedback: (6)

From your screen name I can deduct that you are an RC Car convert to the dark side.

Seriously tho, cheap and helicopters do not mix. A cheap heli or cheap parts are dangerous. If a part fails in flight, not only it trashes your helicopter, but it could injure you or somebody else. Specially if you are talking about non micro helicopters.

As far as carbon blades being worth it? If your skills are up to par, yes. If your skills are not, then save to buy fuel.

Rafael

calvino

yeah, I am a cheap guy and the only reason why my name is MINI T is because I was getting frustrated with all the names I wanted comming up used[:@] Should change my name to undecided RC

chazdraves

I would have to second what Rafael has said. You can get away with "cheap" in planes and cars, but helicopters won't allow it. If you're looking to save a few bucks, you might be well served looking through the RCU classifieds. It honestly isn't worth getting into helicopters if you can't afford to do it right - and that is not a put-down, it's just kind of an unfortunate reality.

The Raptor 30 is a great bird (as I read), but you'd be better off getting the body separately and installing an OS .37. However, if you can spare the few extra dollars, you would get a longer use out of the Knight 50 Evan mentioned.

Just my $.02,
- Chaz

badazzbusa

My Feedback: (1)

http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=133480COM

That would be a better deal than with the TT engine.

They also have 2 packages with the TT engine. One for $380 and the other for $420.

credence

My Feedback: (2)

Chaz, depends on how hard you push your packs. Like I said, they're rated at 500+ cycles with 80% retention at low discharge rates from most manufacturers, even the cheapo ones.

If you took the same battery from the same manufacturer that was rated for 20C, and one you discharged at a 20C rate on a constant basis, and the other you discharge at 10C on a constant basis, the one discharged at 10C will probably last close to twice as long. Most 3 cell packs don't go terribly out of balance to begin with, so balancing them only has a marginal effect, it does help prevent mishaps from overcharge though.

Heat is the best measure of how hard your pushing your packs in my experience. If your batteries are only warm after a full flight then you can look to get many cycles out of them. If your packs are relatively hot (over 120F) then your cycle life starts to drop off at a rather alarming rate. My general rule for almost any model I fly is keep the voltage high and the amperage low! Keeps the batteries happy .