C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
12-28-2019, 01:26 PM
#6328
Thread Starter
Yes, it’s the go to servo. Every Flash and UF I have built is fully kitted out with 8411’s. Run a Powerbox Sensor switch and you are set.
Use JR super servo arms on everything except rudder where I would run a 25mm Dubro HD arm.
Use JR super servo arms on everything except rudder where I would run a 25mm Dubro HD arm.
12-28-2019, 10:07 PM
#6331
Thread Starter
I don’t think it’s the same servo, it’s a Chinese servo given the designation 8411. The 8411HV they did looked the same as the Std voltage servo with a red and gold label on an all plastic 19mm wide case.
12-29-2019, 09:54 AM
#6332
Thread Starter
Little Stevie test flew his UF re engined with a P-130Rx JetCat. Lighter and more power than the old 120 he had, he said it felt great. For me the perfect UF power plant.
12-29-2019, 08:40 PM
#6334
So hey all, I’m thinking about redoing my UF equipment install after looking at all you guys’ fine work and painting the inside of the fuselage. The burning questions are:
1. What paint are you guys using?
2. Is it really just that simple, just tape off the work area and point and shoot? Like how much prep work or none? Spray with primer first? I really want to do this but need a ton of hand holding before I do this and royally screw it up! I’ll be sure to post before and after photos.
thank you!
1. What paint are you guys using?
2. Is it really just that simple, just tape off the work area and point and shoot? Like how much prep work or none? Spray with primer first? I really want to do this but need a ton of hand holding before I do this and royally screw it up! I’ll be sure to post before and after photos.
thank you!
12-29-2019, 10:18 PM
#6335
Thread Starter
If it’s a flown model you will need to wash out the surface to get rid of the oil residual that will be all over the inside, I would use a stiff brush and washing up liquid in a warm water solution.
Use a BVM type scuff board to flat any lumps and bumps, the ply nose wood needs coating with ZAP40 finishing resin 2 coats thinned 50% with alcohol sand between and after.
Shoot a light coat of grey primer-mainly to get into the corners and hard to reach areas a textured paint won’t settle in. You need to build up light costs as it takes a few seconds for the ‘grit’ to settle through the lacquer.
This is Rustoleum Aged Iron spray.
Use a BVM type scuff board to flat any lumps and bumps, the ply nose wood needs coating with ZAP40 finishing resin 2 coats thinned 50% with alcohol sand between and after.
Shoot a light coat of grey primer-mainly to get into the corners and hard to reach areas a textured paint won’t settle in. You need to build up light costs as it takes a few seconds for the ‘grit’ to settle through the lacquer.
This is Rustoleum Aged Iron spray.
12-30-2019, 09:14 AM
#6337
Wow Dave, again your the man!!! Quick response! Your expertise and build experience are invaluable to the Flash community. Keep up the good work. So now I'm thinking, great, that sounds like a lot of heavy lifting for me just being bored and wanting to do something in the garage. My next Flash build I will start out with painting the inside, I've got one in the box it came in, and never opened it cause it was free shipping last year. My wife says, "why not practice on that one!" Hmmmm, good idea?
12-30-2019, 09:26 AM
#6338
Thread Starter
Was making my wife breakfast when I opened RCU and saw your request, just happened to have that photo on the iPad and it’s a process I’ve developed over many years. My Instruction manual original Classic Flash wasn’t painted and every time I look inside I think what a mess!
Its worth the effort, but mask everything as the paint particles will carry!
Its worth the effort, but mask everything as the paint particles will carry!
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helifox (07-07-2020)
12-31-2019, 03:48 AM
#6340
I'm thinking standard 8411s on ailerons, elevators, and the higher torque comp versions on flaps and rudder:
https://www.deeforce.net/product-pag...le-competition
12-31-2019, 10:20 AM
#6341
Thread Starter
They are showing a version of the plastic cased servo. I would use that everywhere, it’s what my Classic and UF have on all surfaces and you can see the flaps hold the position just fine from the pictures
12-31-2019, 11:30 AM
#6343
Thread Starter
Does not need one, all the ones you see flying in the UK are Gyro free, but like every model it makes it even soother. I’d say the UF would be better than your T-one in wind.
12-31-2019, 05:21 PM
#6347
Thread Starter
12-31-2019, 05:22 PM
#6348
Thread Starter