Stobe777

My Feedback: (1)

Ok. Maybe I should do also a transport brace to the front end of the booms then.
TP.

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

I drilled two holes in my alum wing tube to match the rear holes in the booms, and used that rather than having another brace.
It is also useful for hanging it up for storage.

Stobe777

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, a good solution!
TP.

ModellbauUK

I keep the small spar inside the large one when it's strapped to the booms. Keeps it all together.

ModellbauUK

Tornado V3 has flown in the UK. North Weald Aerodrome. Flew on JetsMunt VT80. Awesome combination. I must say this turbine well out performed the turbine I have traditionally flown in the Tornado, Kingtech K80. Alot more quiet & throttle response was first rate. Tornado groved in the sky and shifted like a rocket, superb big loops. Inverted only about 1 degree of down needed. Slowed to a crawl on landing.

Model now ready for Jetpower.

2FAS

My Feedback: (5)

I'm glad to here the Jetsmunt VT80 performed well the in the Tornado because that is the turbine I puchased for my V3. I also have the Dreamworks retract combo and a new canopy from Ray. Now I just need my motivation back to finish it. Oh and landing very easy and slow gives me confidence for my first turbine project. I also want to thank all the folks on this forum threadfor your responses. I have learned so much reading this.

TUMBLER

My Feedback: (13)

Hey,

Would you mind snapping a couple pictures of your elevator linkage setup.

Thanks,

Brian

ModellbauUK

No problem Tumbler. I'm away until 3 Sept but will take pictures on my return

I applied the same principles to all the control surfaces by hysoling hardwood blocks to the servo covers and fixing the servos to these. I glued a bit of hardwood under the screw holes to provide a better anchor. Just run some thin cyano around the rim of the servo aperture to ensure there is sufficient glue in this area.

I used carbon push rods for the linkages. The key is to get everything the same on both sides so the servos do not work against each other at any point. Same servos both sides Hitec HS225MG

Yes 2FAS, great choice for Turbine and relatively local service support too. No need to return to Taiwan!!!

On the canopy a few tips which I'll post on the website on my return. The Norray canopy is a bit small for the wider V3 fuse but is worth persevering as it is a whole lot stronger than the supplied one, although the supplied one is fine you just have to be a bit careful when fitting not to split it.

This is how I did mine

Trim the canopy just over size and push into position. You need to pull it open quite a bit but it won't split. Soaking the canopy in hot water may help to slightly softened the plastic. Allow to cool before removing (I carefully blasted with a hot gun too with no detriment)Trim further if required. I found the canopy fits better if cut slightly over size. You can alway trim/ sand later

Cover the fuse around the canopy aperture with cling film. Rub a very small amount of oil (I used Teflon oil) over the film around the rim. Use very little and just enough to lay up a very small layer. It should not be appeared wet or soaked in oil. This will act to ease release later.

See next post

ModellbauUK

Build a frame around the rim with 1/8th hardwood strip including braces across the middle. Glue with slow/thick cyano. With the ends just cut at an angle to fit and sand the pieces to profile. The frame should now sit on the rim flush with the lip.

Now 2 choices. Either spray the inside of the canopy after masking the rim or leave clear. I used plasticote rattle can in gold. Very 007!!!

Glue 1/16th" ply on top of the frame again with slow/thick cyano. Tape into position with masking tape going all the way around the fuse to hold down into position. You can use weights if desired. Allow to cure for 24 hours.

If left clear you could glue the cockpit pan to the plywood testing the fit with canopy in position at this stage.

Now run some hysol all the way around the rim of the canopy, push into position squeezing out the excess. Masking tape again all the way around to hold down in position to fully cure for 24 hours. Lift off and hay presto a perfectly fitting canopy. Allow the hysol to fully harden before sanding off excess hysol. If there's gaps in the hysol you could add a bit more and push back into position.

The canopy can then be masked and painted, I used humbrol enamel. You could paint the underside of the frame and ply if you like again with enamel paint.

Ill post pictures when back from hols

Hope this helps

Ian

2FAS

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks ModellbauUK, your directions will be very helpful when I get to the canopy steps. I did notice the V3 fuse on the top seems wider than the canopy and tub.

TUMBLER

My Feedback: (13)

My issue was more about the fact the elevator pushrod does not line up with the elevator horn either up or down pr side to side. I also don't like how short the control horns are. In order to get the hole over the hinge line you need to tilt them towards the hinge line but then the back half of the horn comes out of the slot If you sink them down in farther, then they become really short. I ordered better quality carbon horns.

A couple other issues:

1. front wing bolt holes don't line up so new holes need to be drilled and then reinforced inside the fuse since there is no wood where the hole get drilled.
2. I was a little surprised and disappointed that there was no stopper assembly for the fuel tank. seems like something that should be standard.
3. the bottom of the wing is all red, but the servo mount/covers are white which looks awful.

ModellbauUK

Control horns are fine, I have mine recessed with 3 holes showing. Tilted forward to line up the control line and slotted square to the hinge line. Key the hinges before hysoling in

Re the holes yes they didn't line up on mine either but using a large coin washer spreads the loads onto the wood. Up to you if you re drill but really not needed. The bolts only hold the wing in position with the loads going through the spars

I agree re the fuel stopper, I'm including them in my kits from the UK

I agree on the servo covers. A mixed bag on this one, some match some don't. Yellow black kit open before leaving home had red covers. Sure henry can provide details of the covering used and I'll get some to put in the kits I sell.

Ian

Sparhawk

Two flights today... why only two? Asphalt runway, not a hard landing on the second but both mains pulled out of the wing. Why? Barely a blob of glue on the plates. Such crap. They may have changed the plates to crappy plywood, but no glue is pathetic. I'll fix it with real aircraft ply or hardwood, and I can guarantee that a proper amount of hysol will be used.

On a positive note, it's a fun jet to fly. My Rabbit is the perfect combo...

Dan

dgxco1

My Feedback: (11)

Henry.

When will the V3 Upgrade Kits Be Available? I really would like to turn up the power on my Rabbit 100 from the reserved power used on my V2.

TimWatson

At the BMFA Nationals in the UK at the weekend I saw a V3 Tornado being sold for £400. I dont think it was from Modelbau UK but not sure. This means that there might be another UK inporter ?

Jamie C

No Dennis it is not another importer and it was not being sold for 400 . . . . or sold at all! the reason i know this is because it was mine, i was helping out on a friends stand inbetween flying on the showline and i put it on there to generate some intrest in this new model to help Ian out, which it did!

TimWatson

I see and now I knowI am sure howeverit have a note on it with a price of £400 on a piece of card. Pehaps it was £480 and the 8 looked like a 0. Not sure, Either way it caused a bit of confusion as several people I spoke to thought there was another importer. Still we live and learn

TUMBLER

My Feedback: (13)

duplicate

TUMBLER

My Feedback: (13)

duplicate post

TUMBLER

My Feedback: (13)

It really bothered me that half the nose wheel stuck out the bottom. So with a little dremeling and about a half hour, I was able to carve out some of the nose gear mounting blocks and lower the retract so the wheel fully retracts. I am also making a mold for a new wheel well liner. I will make it out of fiberglass. If anyone needs one I can make one for you for say $20.

Brian

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

I Like it, the one in the kit is not deep enough for the wheel.
If you use a trailing link leg it will fully go i to the fuselage without and mods to the retract mounts.

TUMBLER

My Feedback: (13)

I am using a trailing link, but unfortunately the wheel is not offset enough to fully retract. Even with a couple washers under the front of the retract, it still sticks out.

ModellbauUK

Nice to see you went for the red white scheme that's still my favourite scheme although the yellow black scheme is pretty cool

ModellbauUK

Tumbler

Just a thought

You did thicken/strengthen the mounting blocks as removing wood will weaken this area.

TUMBLER

My Feedback: (13)

Yes I did, however I don't even know if its necessary though because I only took out a small portion of the mounting rails and they are very thick to begin with. If I come down on the nose hard enough to break the wood, I will probably have bigger issues. I agree, the red and white looks awesome!