SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
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RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
OK onto the fuselage build. Ihave tested all air cylinders out of the planeand they test OK
using "leak-tec"fluid. However, the front gear door ones do NOTreliably close the doors due '
to the angle they have when the doors are "open", there is just not enough angle there to reliably close
SO the fix could be one of the following:
1. Increase the angle by moving the bottom mount out towards the center of the fuse
2. Use larger dia cylinders to get more "pull"
3. Do #2 and 3 together
4. Use servos to acuate these
I'm mulling all of this over
using "leak-tec"fluid. However, the front gear door ones do NOTreliably close the doors due '
to the angle they have when the doors are "open", there is just not enough angle there to reliably close
SO the fix could be one of the following:
1. Increase the angle by moving the bottom mount out towards the center of the fuse
2. Use larger dia cylinders to get more "pull"
3. Do #2 and 3 together
4. Use servos to acuate these
I'm mulling all of this over
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RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
ORIGINAL: geh3
OK onto the fuselage build. Ihave tested all air cylinders out of the planeand they test OK
using "leak-tec"fluid. However, the front gear door ones do NOTreliably close the doors due '
to the angle they have when the doors are "open", there is just not enough angle there to reliably close
SO the fix could be one of the following:
1. Increase the angle by moving the bottom mount out towards the center of the fuse
2. Use larger dia cylinders to get more "pull"
3. Do #2 and 3 together
4. Use servos to acuate these
I'm mulling all of this over
OK onto the fuselage build. Ihave tested all air cylinders out of the planeand they test OK
using "leak-tec"fluid. However, the front gear door ones do NOTreliably close the doors due '
to the angle they have when the doors are "open", there is just not enough angle there to reliably close
SO the fix could be one of the following:
1. Increase the angle by moving the bottom mount out towards the center of the fuse
2. Use larger dia cylinders to get more "pull"
3. Do #2 and 3 together
4. Use servos to acuate these
I'm mulling all of this over
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RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
Iam going to use BVMcylinders for the front doors since one of the supplied ones
feels quite "rough"when it is moved by hand even after re-lubricating with BVM"o-ring"lube
and yes, moving it down a bit will eliminate the "over center"problem.
THANKS
feels quite "rough"when it is moved by hand even after re-lubricating with BVM"o-ring"lube
and yes, moving it down a bit will eliminate the "over center"problem.
THANKS
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RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
OK I am onto the checkout and installation of the speed board actuators while waiting for my BVM upgrade kit. Looking at my "speed boards"
install, there is no wood backers or reinforcements in between the hinges making the entire hinge line quite weak... I will have add these as well...
The first picture is from the online manual, the rest are my plane!!! A good thing here, they added ALUhinges instead of the pictures plastic ones!!
install, there is no wood backers or reinforcements in between the hinges making the entire hinge line quite weak... I will have add these as well...
The first picture is from the online manual, the rest are my plane!!! A good thing here, they added ALUhinges instead of the pictures plastic ones!!
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RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
ORIGINAL: geh3
OK I am onto the checkout and installation of the speed board actuators while waiting for my BVM upgrade kit. Looking at my "speed boards"
install, there is no wood backers or reinforcements in between the hinges making the entire hinge line quite weak... I will have add these as well...
The first picture is from the online manual, the rest are my plane!!! A good thing here, they added ALUhinges instead of the pictures plastic ones!!
OK I am onto the checkout and installation of the speed board actuators while waiting for my BVM upgrade kit. Looking at my "speed boards"
install, there is no wood backers or reinforcements in between the hinges making the entire hinge line quite weak... I will have add these as well...
The first picture is from the online manual, the rest are my plane!!! A good thing here, they added ALUhinges instead of the pictures plastic ones!!
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RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
OK I 'm onto the bypass/thrust tube install
once installed, the turbine lines up perfect with the thrust tube,
indicating that the rails,diameters of the lower bypass and Alu bellmouth
are right on!!!
once installed, the turbine lines up perfect with the thrust tube,
indicating that the rails,diameters of the lower bypass and Alu bellmouth
are right on!!!
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RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
This is what I had to do to get perfect bores in the lower bypass
and then into the turbine rails so the turbine is centered in all directions.
DREMEL came to the rescue + I had to shorten a #30 drill but it all worked perfect
just another trick to get a good build! This was all necessary because the width of the
opening in the fuse was way narrower than the width of the mount for this particular turbine!
and then into the turbine rails so the turbine is centered in all directions.
DREMEL came to the rescue + I had to shorten a #30 drill but it all worked perfect
just another trick to get a good build! This was all necessary because the width of the
opening in the fuse was way narrower than the width of the mount for this particular turbine!
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RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
Top bypass almost done, I need to fit the TAM smoke tubes in, that's all
I like the Wren approach to Kero start, their burner is easily replaceable just like a glow plug!
I have yet to have one of these fail! After all is finally fitted and checked, I will prime all of the wood surfaces with gray auto primer...
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RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
I'm using these MPX connectors for the 2 servos in each wing, these are quite nice as
they are easy to solder and have a good friction when assembled so NO worries about them coming loose!
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RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
I just recieved by BVM upgrade kit for my panther. There is an awsome amount of very well engineered
upgrades in this manual! There are some differences between the materials and fuse and the wings between the Cougar and Panther
These seem to be as follows:
1. Rudder servo install and the fuse differences where the rudder servo is..no big deal just slight differences in location and linkage
2. The Panther has wing flaps+ fuse flaps ( speed boards + speed brakes), the Cougar has flaperons +speed boards +speed brakes
andNO wing flaps)
3.The main fuel tank seems to be shaped differently.
SO now I will install what upgrades I have and slightly modify some to suit the components supplied with my Panther... The manual is well worth getting as it contains a lot of knowledge and useful stuff...
upgrades in this manual! There are some differences between the materials and fuse and the wings between the Cougar and Panther
These seem to be as follows:
1. Rudder servo install and the fuse differences where the rudder servo is..no big deal just slight differences in location and linkage
2. The Panther has wing flaps+ fuse flaps ( speed boards + speed brakes), the Cougar has flaperons +speed boards +speed brakes
andNO wing flaps)
3.The main fuel tank seems to be shaped differently.
SO now I will install what upgrades I have and slightly modify some to suit the components supplied with my Panther... The manual is well worth getting as it contains a lot of knowledge and useful stuff...
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RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
OK my tank install will be as follows:
1 Smaller tank installed on the bottom pushed back to
the the front of the front turbine former. This gets fuel closer to the CG
something Ialways try to do
2. Smoke pump will be mounted on the fuse bottom in front of the lower tank
3 Main tank on top of the bottom tank
4.Smoke tank again pushed back to the front turbine former
Iwill have to build some structure here to accomplish all of this
1 Smaller tank installed on the bottom pushed back to
the the front of the front turbine former. This gets fuel closer to the CG
something Ialways try to do
2. Smoke pump will be mounted on the fuse bottom in front of the lower tank
3 Main tank on top of the bottom tank
4.Smoke tank again pushed back to the front turbine former
Iwill have to build some structure here to accomplish all of this
#70
RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
I see you are using a large nalgene bottle for a tank. Not sure if you've used them much in the past or not, but I installed them in a jet a year ago and the caps leak over time. It's like a UAT cap that needs a bit of tightening as time goes on. The plastic cap deforms a bit when tightened. Over time, it takes a "set" and therefore is no longer "tight". Mine needed 1/2 turn to retighten. It's worse in warmer temps as the cap is softer. It seems to be more pronounced on the larger caps as they are less rigid than the little UAT caps. Unless u can easily access it (I could not) and continually keep it snug, it will leak in time, unless you make it non servicible and hysol the cap on or something similar. Just an FYI.
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RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
That is my intended smoke tank and yes I have also experienced that problem
I might use a round tank there since they draw better at lower volumes
THANKS
I might use a round tank there since they draw better at lower volumes
THANKS
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RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
I am installing the BVM main LG upgrade kit... adds incredible strength to the LG mounts...with dual CFplates
and hardwood angles also assembled the new front accessory tray.. wow it will hold all running gear..very nicely
and get the running gear way up front to achieve proper CG!
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RE: SKYMASTER F9F Build Thread
I installed 1 speed board servo+linkage. I had to mount the control horn at 5" from the inboard flap edge instead of 5.4" as the BVM manual states to get no binding at all + I installed the servo on an angle to get closer to perpendicular between the servo and the flap. It works perfect this way and I get good deflection with "0" binding... There must be some differences beteween the structure here for the Panther vs the Cougar!
There is no wood structure underneath the inner flap cover where the control horn goes so I added glue to the inside with a LOT of milled fiberglass mixed in + some external wood backers on either side of the horn!!!
I test all servo installs with a servo tester+ an in line current meter!