Lado E-Door Actuators PROBLEMS
04-09-2013 | 09:10 AM
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From: SANTA ANA, CA
Lado E-Door Actuators PROBLEMS
I am not having very good success with the Lado E-Door Actuators installed in my AirWorld F-100. They work perfectly for one maybe two weekends of flying then the next time I'm set to fly the jet, at least one of the control boards is dead! This is now the fourth time I have had to replace a board, always a different gear and always after having worked perfectly the previous outing. Anybody else having a problem with these?
I'm sure Lado would repair or replace the boards if I sent them back, but this is where the whole USA/Europe service time & expense issue comes into effect. Cost and time to send them back and return would probably exceed the cost of ordering new, but I'm not about to order anymore till I understand the cause of these issues.
David S
I'm sure Lado would repair or replace the boards if I sent them back, but this is where the whole USA/Europe service time & expense issue comes into effect. Cost and time to send them back and return would probably exceed the cost of ordering new, but I'm not about to order anymore till I understand the cause of these issues.
David S
04-09-2013 | 09:40 AM
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RE: Lado E-Door Actuators PROBLEMS
I have just installed them on my f-86.. Have not flown it yet but they seem to work great. I have cycled them at least 25 plus times on the bench. I have a separate power supply on them. I am using a life 2c on them.. Did you have yours on a separate power supply?
04-09-2013 | 09:42 AM
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From: Norfolk , UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Lado E-Door Actuators PROBLEMS
David
I had some Lado retracts and they were very sensitive to too high voltage. Anything over 6 v would fry them after working for several cycles. I did it twice before they explained the problem. I had no instructions with them warning of the problem. Unregulated A123 will fry them. Not sure what you have as your power supply. I imagine the actuators use the same motors as the retracts. I gave up on them in the end because they kept failing and were too weak for my retracts legs.
John
I had some Lado retracts and they were very sensitive to too high voltage. Anything over 6 v would fry them after working for several cycles. I did it twice before they explained the problem. I had no instructions with them warning of the problem. Unregulated A123 will fry them. Not sure what you have as your power supply. I imagine the actuators use the same motors as the retracts. I gave up on them in the end because they kept failing and were too weak for my retracts legs.
John
04-09-2013 | 01:40 PM
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From: Grande Prairie,
AB, CANADA
RE: Lado E-Door Actuators PROBLEMS
ORIGINAL: Jgwright
David
I had some Lado retracts and they were very sensitive to too high voltage. Anything over 6 v would fry them after working for several cycles. I did it twice before they explained the problem. I had no instructions with them warning of the problem. Unregulated A123 will fry them. Not sure what you have as your power supply. I imagine the actuators use the same motors as the retracts. I gave up on them in the end because they kept failing and were too weak for my retracts legs.
John
David
I had some Lado retracts and they were very sensitive to too high voltage. Anything over 6 v would fry them after working for several cycles. I did it twice before they explained the problem. I had no instructions with them warning of the problem. Unregulated A123 will fry them. Not sure what you have as your power supply. I imagine the actuators use the same motors as the retracts. I gave up on them in the end because they kept failing and were too weak for my retracts legs.
John
04-09-2013 | 02:16 PM
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From: SANTA ANA, CA
RE: Lado E-Door Actuators PROBLEMS
ORIGINAL: Pepperpete
Yup that's the same thing when I had mine. You have to run them at 5v or 6v regulated as the absolute limit. Go any higher than that and ''ZAP'' you will fry the board.
ORIGINAL: Jgwright
David
I had some Lado retracts and they were very sensitive to too high voltage. Anything over 6 v would fry them after working for several cycles. I did it twice before they explained the problem. I had no instructions with them warning of the problem. Unregulated A123 will fry them. Not sure what you have as your power supply. I imagine the actuators use the same motors as the retracts. I gave up on them in the end because they kept failing and were too weak for my retracts legs.
John
David
I had some Lado retracts and they were very sensitive to too high voltage. Anything over 6 v would fry them after working for several cycles. I did it twice before they explained the problem. I had no instructions with them warning of the problem. Unregulated A123 will fry them. Not sure what you have as your power supply. I imagine the actuators use the same motors as the retracts. I gave up on them in the end because they kept failing and were too weak for my retracts legs.
John
David S
04-09-2013 | 04:21 PM
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RE: Lado E-Door Actuators PROBLEMS
I've wondered with the electric stuff to, what the draw and loads are in flight. We all know you can have gear and doors that work perfectly on the ground (with the air systems) but once in flight, doors will pull open, or not close properly in the first place etc all due to the load from the air pressure. I've seen this on many jets that everything was perfect on the ground but in flight didn't work well at all. Most notably was a couple of Skymaster Viperjets that the inner doors always worked on the ground but in the air were ALWAYS open.
Could it be that the loads and pressures in flight are causing a constant draw, or much higher draw during operation than they should be having and it's overloading the circuit?
I think the idea of electric is cool, but frankly, I've never had issues with air, so I'll stick with that for the time being still.
Could it be that the loads and pressures in flight are causing a constant draw, or much higher draw during operation than they should be having and it's overloading the circuit?
I think the idea of electric is cool, but frankly, I've never had issues with air, so I'll stick with that for the time being still.
04-09-2013 | 05:00 PM
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From: Southport, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Lado E-Door Actuators PROBLEMS
ORIGINAL: LGM Graphix
I've wondered with the electric stuff to, what the draw and loads are in flight. We all know you can have gear and doors that work perfectly on the ground (with the air systems) but once in flight, doors will pull open, or not close properly in the first place etc all due to the load from the air pressure. I've seen this on many jets that everything was perfect on the ground but in flight didn't work well at all. Most notably was a couple of Skymaster Viperjets that the inner doors always worked on the ground but in the air were ALWAYS open.
Could it be that the loads and pressures in flight are causing a constant draw, or much higher draw during operation than they should be having and it's overloading the circuit?
I think the idea of electric is cool, but frankly, I've never had issues with air, so I'll stick with that for the time being still.
I've wondered with the electric stuff to, what the draw and loads are in flight. We all know you can have gear and doors that work perfectly on the ground (with the air systems) but once in flight, doors will pull open, or not close properly in the first place etc all due to the load from the air pressure. I've seen this on many jets that everything was perfect on the ground but in flight didn't work well at all. Most notably was a couple of Skymaster Viperjets that the inner doors always worked on the ground but in the air were ALWAYS open.
Could it be that the loads and pressures in flight are causing a constant draw, or much higher draw during operation than they should be having and it's overloading the circuit?
I think the idea of electric is cool, but frankly, I've never had issues with air, so I'll stick with that for the time being still.
I've been flying an electric system on a fast sports model for over a year now and with dozens of flights have had zero issues so far. Also currently working on another more complex system and certainly on the ground the force from the door actuators is enough to break the horn off the door with minimal current draw. Even trying to hold back a retracting main gear with my hand current draw only goes up to 300mAh, far less than a digital control surface servo.
Hope that helps understanding.
Rob.
