Ripmax Xcalibur Sports jet
#1501
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
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Hi Izzy
Cool idea with the magnets.
I had managed to get the nut back in the top but still could not get at it wit the bolt.
Issue I had was that the screw that drives into the clamp that holds it (the clamp) to the wing root was physically extending into the bolts path so I could not get the bolt all the way in...ie bolt hit screw end. (which was protruding into the bolt cavity ).... nut was sitting losely on top of screw end just above where it should have been sitting.
Magnets to get it in there is a much better idea if the nut has come out...and you dont have the added bonus of the screw in the way..
nice one.
Cool idea with the magnets.
I had managed to get the nut back in the top but still could not get at it wit the bolt.
Issue I had was that the screw that drives into the clamp that holds it (the clamp) to the wing root was physically extending into the bolts path so I could not get the bolt all the way in...ie bolt hit screw end. (which was protruding into the bolt cavity ).... nut was sitting losely on top of screw end just above where it should have been sitting.
Magnets to get it in there is a much better idea if the nut has come out...and you dont have the added bonus of the screw in the way..
nice one.
Last edited by SR117; 08-30-2015 at 04:29 AM.
#1503
My Feedback: (53)
I did a bunch of measurements from the back end to make sure it was center.....for the 2 fillers I used 3mm bolts and blind nuts, so I can change them if ever require, also blind nuts for the engine all using light blue locktite.
#1505
Member
#1506
Member
For actual turbine mounting, I used M3 bolts into T-nuts. The T-Nuts are mounted under the engine mountings and needed 4mm clearance holes. To avoid any play in the 4mm hole vs. 3mm bolt I sleeved the hole with brass tube.
Cheers,
Lee.
Last edited by Fly Mower; 08-31-2015 at 01:14 AM.
#1507
Member
I have no idea how heavy the P-80 is but it will be interesting to see how much (if any) weight you need up front to balance at the CG?
#1509
Thread Starter
P-80 is 300g more, so even with everything forward I expect weight (or BIG batteries) to be needed.
Manual figure is safe, so you can go 170mm
Dave
Manual figure is safe, so you can go 170mm
Dave
#1510
My Feedback: (51)
P-80 center of mass is about 21cm behind the CG, while nose weight (if added inside nose cone) is about 80cm in front of the CG.
with that being said, when comparing to the lighter engines, additional 300g of P-80 should require an additional 75g of lead at the nose cone. not too bad considering i wanted to use the engine i had at home.
Ill build a;; the turbine gear on the nose trays above the front LG, so we'll see when i get to the CG stage...
Last edited by i3dm; 08-31-2015 at 01:41 PM.
#1511
Thread Starter
Maybe another 5mm, so 175mm, but you are already heavier than 'norm' so I would add weight first and see, then remove.
Yes, the moments do help, but most people end up with weight in the nose anyway, so its additional. If you have electric gear, that's probably heavier too, tail servo weight. It all affects things.
Dave
Yes, the moments do help, but most people end up with weight in the nose anyway, so its additional. If you have electric gear, that's probably heavier too, tail servo weight. It all affects things.
Dave
#1512
My Feedback: (51)
Maybe another 5mm, so 175mm, but you are already heavier than 'norm' so I would add weight first and see, then remove.
Yes, the moments do help, but most people end up with weight in the nose anyway, so its additional. If you have electric gear, that's probably heavier too, tail servo weight. It all affects things.
Dave
Yes, the moments do help, but most people end up with weight in the nose anyway, so its additional. If you have electric gear, that's probably heavier too, tail servo weight. It all affects things.
Dave
#1513
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Vlodrop, The Netherlands
Posts: 383
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I've been struggling with this for a while... it should be simple and I approached it the same way I see it in your pics. I ended up with something more elaborated which IMHO should not be the case. So... what is the trick? What is the distance from the servo shaft and the hole you picked? From the last picture you posted I guess you are able to get the 75 mm deflection stated in the manual... I couldn't. I have to change my setup as I discovered tonight it interferes with the wing tube but again, it was not supposed to get that far away from the original intention.
Thank you,
Giacomo
Thank you,
Giacomo
#1514
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Vlodrop, The Netherlands
Posts: 383
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I've been struggling with this for a while... it should be simple and I approached it the same way I see it in your pics. I ended up with something more elaborated which IMHO should not be the case. So... what is the trick? What is the distance from the servo shaft and the hole you picked? From the last picture you posted I guess you are able to get the 75 mm deflection stated in the manual... I couldn't. I have to change my setup as I discovered tonight it interferes with the wing tube but again, it was not supposed to get that far away from the original intention.
Thank you,
Giacomo
Thank you,
Giacomo
#1515
Thread Starter
What arm radius? 20mm is all that is needed. Set the flap channel 100-100% with the servo arm forward flap up and back flap down =. I have more that 75mm...which to me is a minimum!
#1517
My Feedback: (25)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cabot,
AR
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Thanks man!!!
My Jet is finally shipping! Will be here Wednesday... just in time for me to go out of town for two weeks
Couple more questions...
1) How are you securing the air tanks?
2) UAT? I have the BVM UAT, and in front of the nose gear well seems like the ideal place... just don't know what's holding it up there.
3) Im using Interco (SP?) wheels and brakes... do I grease the brakes? With what?
Thanks again!
My Jet is finally shipping! Will be here Wednesday... just in time for me to go out of town for two weeks
Couple more questions...
1) How are you securing the air tanks?
2) UAT? I have the BVM UAT, and in front of the nose gear well seems like the ideal place... just don't know what's holding it up there.
3) Im using Interco (SP?) wheels and brakes... do I grease the brakes? With what?
Thanks again!
#1518
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Geilo, NORWAY
Posts: 122
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I wanted too try some lights on my Exalibur, ordered the 4-channel controller, two "landing" lights and one red strobe from Unilight, wow, they are really really bright, tested today in sunny weather, and they are clearly visible at all times, i am only on 2S, would be even brighter at 3S.
The install and programming was very easy, i have a big light-package for my Nijhuis Vulcan, looking forward too install them.
Viggo
The install and programming was very easy, i have a big light-package for my Nijhuis Vulcan, looking forward too install them.
Viggo
#1519
Member
With a 20mm servo arm I needed approx 95 deg of rotation to get the required throws and I had to increase the ATV's up from 100. From memory I ended up at about 125-125 to get the necessary range.
#1520
Member
Assuming you go for the top of the fuel tank, the 'arrangements' range from just using velcro straps on the fuel tank to more elaborate mounting frameworks.
I decided to go elaborate....
2) UAT
Again from the 60 odd pages of this thread; over the nose wheel or recessed into the right-hand equipement tray (next to the nose wheel molding). Cable ties seem to be a common element in both locations. If you go on top on the nose wheel molding, I would fabricate and Hysol a couple of 'brackets' each side of the molding to secure (cable tie against).
3) Im using Interco (SP?) wheels and brakes... do I grease the brakes? With what?
I have no knowledge of those but on the standard Xcalibur units (which are just great by the way), I simply used a thin smear of Vaseline on the brake face (as advised by Dave), and it's working perfectly (slows quickly without locking).
Cheers,
Lee.
Last edited by Fly Mower; 09-05-2015 at 12:45 AM.
#1521
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Vlodrop, The Netherlands
Posts: 383
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That's one hell of an installation Fly Mower! Well done!
I'll try the flap linkage again today and let you know but I already went through all these steps the first time I tried it. I have the ATV set to 150% at both ends. I don't know I'm struggling with it.
Thank you,
Giacomo
I'll try the flap linkage again today and let you know but I already went through all these steps the first time I tried it. I have the ATV set to 150% at both ends. I don't know I'm struggling with it.
Thank you,
Giacomo
#1522
Member
At 150 end points how many degrees of rotation do you get from your servo?
#1523
Thread Starter
Went to test fly/set up a couple of models for a club member Musafa, seen smiling after I had finished tweaking the set up to suit him. This Xcalibur BA is powered by a Wren 100, JR DSX-12 radio. Other than removing 150g!! of nose weight it flew just like all of them.
#1524
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Vlodrop, The Netherlands
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DAVE: when you mention 75 mm as a minimum, what is your preferred landing setup then? 90 degress or a little less?
Thank you,
Giacomo