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Ripmax Xcalibur Sports jet

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Ripmax Xcalibur Sports jet

Old 02-18-2019, 10:04 PM
  #2351  
Dave Wilshere
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Tone

The horns screw on with self tapping screws, there is a half moon plywood plate in all surfaces. The small looking PK screws are used to screw them on and are more than adequate proved by hundreds of flights. If you iron the film before installing you can see the ply outline
Old 02-18-2019, 11:49 PM
  #2352  
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Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere View Post
Tone

The horns screw on with self tapping screws, there is a half moon plywood plate in all surfaces. The small looking PK screws are used to screw them on and are more than adequate proved by hundreds of flights. If you iron the film before installing you can see the ply outline
Thanks for the update Dave. I see the half moon plate and that what I screwed into. I just assumed that half moon plate would be solid or that the control horns would be through bolted.
thanks,
Tone
Old 02-19-2019, 12:54 AM
  #2353  
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The inspectors here wont sign off on the jet here if I only screw them on from one side, that is for sure, even if I tell them it works fine everywhere else :-)

I also bought mine from Lindinger, and a friend also, and we are both missing our 3 mm control clevises. Are they included in your kit ?


Old 02-19-2019, 07:08 AM
  #2354  
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Got my Jet-A1 main retracts today from https://www.jautsch.de/ , so Now I can begin the install.
Im using the original ripmax nosegear. They will be installed in original CYS R2090 retract units :-)

They are 2mm too wide , so I had to dremel out the bays width. The nose gear also has a centering pin, that I had to make room for.
I have removed the original steering system, and have ordered a normal metal horn with 6mm hole in it to fin on the nose leg connecting pin.





















Old 02-19-2019, 08:13 AM
  #2355  
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Originally Posted by SJN View Post
The inspectors here wont sign off on the jet here if I only screw them on from one side, that is for sure, even if I tell them it works fine everywhere else :-)

I also bought mine from Lindinger, and a friend also, and we are both missing our 3 mm control clevises. Are they included in your kit ?


I am worried about the same thing. I thought the hardwood half moon block would at least be solid. I may make and add a backplate and through bolt mine anyway.

My kit did not come with the 3mm clevis either. I contacted Lindinger and they sent me some threaded 3mm rod and ball links.
thanks,
Tone

Last edited by Agrav8ed; 02-19-2019 at 08:48 AM. Reason: Spelling
Old 02-19-2019, 10:24 AM
  #2356  
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That was nice of them :-)
I just bought some at the local hobby shop.

Got my flap/airbrake done.
With the right tools on hand its easy

Man....these big images are annoying.....is there a way to get them to show as thumbnails like before ?





Old 02-20-2019, 01:43 PM
  #2357  
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Default Led's

Got called off today so I decided to add some super bright ledo's from Booma rc. The run off of straight lipo up to 3 cell. The are WAAAAAY brighter than I thought they would be.
Tone
Old 03-20-2019, 03:42 PM
  #2358  
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When we are mounting the turbine how high does it have to be to match the intake duct? Will all four blocks be enough? The manual states to mount it centerline of the intake duct but the duct is not round so I am a bit confused. Can anyone who has built one give me some advice? I am using a Swiwin 80.
thanks
Tone
Old 04-23-2019, 02:46 PM
  #2359  
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Hi All, I’m finally finishing up my Xcalibur, it’s one of the earlier kits, purchased about 4 years ago. Just a few questions .... Incase there has been any updates from the instruction manual:

Is CG still 160 mm back from the leading edge at the root of the wing panels ?
Control throw for elevator 20mm each way at tip ?
Any up or down thrust shins needed for the turbine mount (I will be using a JetCat P70) ?
Should I use any lubricant on the wheel brake pads ?

Thanks very much !

Bob

Old 04-23-2019, 09:10 PM
  #2360  
Dave Wilshere
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Bob

With 1/4 tank of fuel make the balance 170mm
20mm is ok for people who like powerful controls, you can go down to 18mm, though the elevator on an Xcalibur is not snappy sharp in control power. You need to fly it to set it how you like.
No additional shim should be needed with a big slugger of a turbine like the P-70. It’s only high efflux velocity units that sometime need a little more down thrust to remove the high speed exhaust gas from the tailplanes lower surface.

i would very lightly grease the wheel surface to reduce grabbing. The brakes are powerful.
Old 04-24-2019, 03:00 AM
  #2361  
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Hi Dave, Thank you very much for the response. I’m looking forward to getting it in the air in a week or two.

Bob
Old 06-12-2019, 12:01 PM
  #2362  
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Default Setup

Hi I guess somewhere in the thread must be some setup suggestions for a novice jet pilot ? I have read for hours but not found them yet ! can someone point me to a post which may verify what I need or is the manual setup sufficient to start ?
Many thanks,

Paul.
Old 06-12-2019, 09:10 PM
  #2363  
Dave Wilshere
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It’s so difficult to give figures not knowing a pilot, will you have someone you know test fly it? If they know you they can discuss your likes.
Xcalibur is sharper on elevator than aileron, so little more expo on elevator than aileron. Balance 170mm with a little fuel.
1mm down elevator with takeoff flap and 3mm with landing flap. As much Flap as you can get ( 80 degrees)

that will I’ll get you close
Old 06-12-2019, 10:13 PM
  #2364  
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Thanks Dave, a great help, appreciated.

Paul IOM.
Old 06-25-2019, 01:21 PM
  #2365  
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Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere View Post
Itís so difficult to give figures not knowing a pilot, will you have someone you know test fly it? If they know you they can discuss your likes.
Xcalibur is sharper on elevator than aileron, so little more expo on elevator than aileron. Balance 170mm with a little fuel.
1mm down elevator with takeoff flap and 3mm with landing flap. As much Flap as you can get ( 80 degrees)

that will Iíll get you close
Thanks Dave my model flew this evening with no drama a couple of clicks of right aileron trim were all that was required and the flap compensation was spot on.

Cheers.
Old 06-25-2019, 01:52 PM
  #2366  
Dave Wilshere
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Paul

Goodo :-)

Dave
Old 11-13-2019, 09:35 PM
  #2367  
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Here in the US we use Biobor EF anti-microbial additive to take care of just this sort of thing. My turbine colleagues highly recommend it. You probably already figured this out since I am responding to a late 2016 post. But I thought it might be worth the post. There is a product for Kerosene and one for diesel.

https://www.biobor.com/fuel-additive...uel-additives/

This stuff is extremely concentrated. A one pint U.S. bottle treats 640 US gallons.
Old 11-26-2019, 06:45 AM
  #2368  
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Default Air Retracts storage issues.

I have been unable to fly my jet for the past three months due to other matters, but this morning decided to prep it for flight again, it has only had one flight I should add. It was stored with the retracts up and some pressure in the system about 50 psi. The retracts would not come down either by manually pressing the buttons on the valve or from the Tx. After pressurising them back to 110psi they came down but worked intermittently for a while until they obviously freed off and now seem back to normal. Silly question time, is there a best way to preserve the system when not in use ? and is there anything to be used in terms of cylinder lubrication if they are laid up for some time? advice appreciated, thanks.
Paul.
Old 11-26-2019, 08:37 AM
  #2369  
Dave Wilshere
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Paul

Every flying session( first fill only), I put 2 drops (literally that) of Silicon buggy shock oil into the filler valve and then pressurise, this works through the system and reduces the moisture issue. Been doing this for 20 years and all my air retracts continue to hold air! Between 20 and 30WT

Dave

Last edited by Dave Wilshere; 11-26-2019 at 08:39 AM.
Old 11-26-2019, 08:40 AM
  #2370  
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Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere View Post
Paul

Every flying session( first fill only), I put 2 drops (literally that) of Silicon buggy shock oil into the filler valve and then pressurise, this works through the system and reduces the moisture issue. Been doing this for 20 years and all my air retracts continue to hold air! Between 20 and 30WT

Dave
Once again to the rescue thanks very much Dave appreciate the help !

Paul.
Old 12-06-2019, 11:05 PM
  #2371  
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Hi guys,

Need a bit of advice please.
Excalibur model.. KT 85g2
fuel line from CAT air trap to fuel pump issue maybe.
the fitting ID on the CAT is large.. ( like huge)
The fitting on the pump is only 2.5mm ID.
I will therefore need to reduce the fuel line.

I have read that very good article from a few years back on air traps and issues around possible cavitation.

my questions is..
Should the reducer be at the CAT end or the pump input end of the line.
my inclination would be to have it at the pump end ??

to make matters more confusing as I look at all the pictures on the forum I see reducers at both ends.

just dont want to build in a problem from the very start.

many thanks for any information.

Ray
NZ
Old 12-06-2019, 11:17 PM
  #2372  
Dave Wilshere
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In the case of your 100N turbine and a small model, either would be ok, but better practice is to step down near the pump.
Old 12-07-2019, 03:32 AM
  #2373  
Dansy
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Originally Posted by Sbach View Post
Hi guys,

Need a bit of advice please.
Excalibur model.. KT 85g2
fuel line from CAT air trap to fuel pump issue maybe.
the fitting ID on the CAT is large.. ( like huge)
The fitting on the pump is only 2.5mm ID.
I will therefore need to reduce the fuel line.

I have read that very good article from a few years back on air traps and issues around possible cavitation.

my questions is..
Should the reducer be at the CAT end or the pump input end of the line.
my inclination would be to have it at the pump end ??

to make matters more confusing as I look at all the pictures on the forum I see reducers at both ends.

just dont want to build in a problem from the very start.

many thanks for any information.

Ray
NZ
I never used reducer, I slip a 4mm tubing on the pump nipple cut that flush then slip the 6mm (it will be tight used some fine oil) then lock wire both and they will not come out....
Old 12-07-2019, 07:17 AM
  #2374  
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Originally Posted by Sbach View Post
Hi guys,

Need a bit of advice please.
Excalibur model.. KT 85g2
fuel line from CAT air trap to fuel pump issue maybe.
the fitting ID on the CAT is large.. ( like huge)
The fitting on the pump is only 2.5mm ID.
I will therefore need to reduce the fuel line.

I have read that very good article from a few years back on air traps and issues around possible cavitation.

my questions is..
Should the reducer be at the CAT end or the pump input end of the line.
my inclination would be to have it at the pump end ??

to make matters more confusing as I look at all the pictures on the forum I see reducers at both ends.

just dont want to build in a problem from the very start.

many thanks for any information.

Ray
NZ
here's mine almost 300 flts no issues

Old 12-07-2019, 09:35 AM
  #2375  
Sbach
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Thanks guys for the information.
some good ideas there..
Thats a neat idea Dansy using a sleeve.... never thought of that.. thanks.
The Festo reducer looks tidy as well.
Dave, thanks for info.. you have confirmed what I was thinking.
cheers

Ray

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