Jeti-duplex-ds-16-2.4-ghz
#501

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I am not sure about that but Behotec is ProJet ECU which is also use by Wren if I am not mistaken. Ultimate-Jets had mentioned that they would look into it but not sure if they have yet or are just sticking with Xicoy. Anyway I am hopeful that it will be a reality in the near future.
If anyone sees something with Behotec and Jeti interface please post it here. Thanks
If anyone sees something with Behotec and Jeti interface please post it here. Thanks
Last edited by Puttputt maru; 02-24-2014 at 01:55 PM.
#502

Im flying the Projet ECU/Wren.. the problem is they have their own proprietary instrumentation system.. we are now offering all new wren turbines with the Gaspar ECU for obvious reasons..
for now, Im just using the Mui30 amp sensor for the fuel/battery monitoring.
If I ever crack the code, will let you all know..
for now, Im just using the Mui30 amp sensor for the fuel/battery monitoring.
If I ever crack the code, will let you all know..
Last edited by gooseF22; 02-24-2014 at 03:18 PM.
#503

Analog throttle knob:
two ways:
1. select the P8 or P7 knob from the throttle trim setting on the function menu.. and disable the digital trim from the throttle on the digital trim page..
2. PuttPutt Maru's mix - (Putputt please post your method..thx..)
PS.. in the upcoming firmware, there is the ability to select 100% for trim steps.... so we are getting a 2 click shutoff if you want to use it that way too..
I have the locking kill switch set up to 150% using the throttle kill function.. it kills my gassers too instantly... On an electric, it acts as a throttle lockout.. very handy (yes I know there is a throttle lock function)..
So what I get is a throttle lock or kill for every model to keep it consistent, and IF i want to then the P8 is available for fine adjustments to low end.. for instance if I want the prop turing at a low rpm on the electric..but the switchology is the same for gasser/electric/turbine..all... Hope that makes sense
two ways:
1. select the P8 or P7 knob from the throttle trim setting on the function menu.. and disable the digital trim from the throttle on the digital trim page..
2. PuttPutt Maru's mix - (Putputt please post your method..thx..)
PS.. in the upcoming firmware, there is the ability to select 100% for trim steps.... so we are getting a 2 click shutoff if you want to use it that way too..
I have the locking kill switch set up to 150% using the throttle kill function.. it kills my gassers too instantly... On an electric, it acts as a throttle lockout.. very handy (yes I know there is a throttle lock function)..
So what I get is a throttle lock or kill for every model to keep it consistent, and IF i want to then the P8 is available for fine adjustments to low end.. for instance if I want the prop turing at a low rpm on the electric..but the switchology is the same for gasser/electric/turbine..all... Hope that makes sense
#504

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2. PuttPutt Maru's mix - (Putputt please post your method..thx..)
Since the throttle limit option exist only with helicopters you have to do it in a round about way with airplanes
Create a mix from Throttle to Throttle with a curve preset "X<0" and with Master value at 10% for example(max. trim value).
Then assign a Switch to this mix that activates it proportionally - for example P8 and in that menu press the "Centr" button.
This mix will influence the lower part of the throttle path (no influence to maximum throttle).
Do not forget to uncheck the assymetrical throttle box
(I had a value of 51% when I took the pics to make sure no interaction existed, obviously a very high value)
I have the locking kill switch set up to 150% using the throttle kill function.. it kills my gassers too instantly... On an electric, it acts as a throttle lockout.. very handy (yes I know there is a throttle lock function)..
So what I get is a throttle lock or kill for every model to keep it consistent, and IF i want to then the P8 is available for fine adjustments to low end.. for instance if I want the prop turing at a low rpm on the electric..but the switchology is the same for gasser/electric/turbine..all... Hope that makes sense
So what I get is a throttle lock or kill for every model to keep it consistent, and IF i want to then the P8 is available for fine adjustments to low end.. for instance if I want the prop turing at a low rpm on the electric..but the switchology is the same for gasser/electric/turbine..all... Hope that makes sense
Last edited by Puttputt maru; 02-25-2014 at 05:53 AM.
#505

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I finally got around to playing with my CB200 but I am stuck. I followed all these steps and have the required updates for the firmware
But when I change the output mode to EX Bus, all I get is this screen

And I can never see the other choices mentioned here:
Am I missing something? Obviously but what?
Any help would be appreciated
Edit: After a few frustrating hours yesterday and a few more this morning I found the solution. I tried with one of the other Central Box that I have and it works. This Central Box is defective and will be sent back. Thanks again rcjets_63 your instructions are the best
I started with a transmitter in firmware rev 2.22, I updated the firmware in the Central Box (using the instructions in Section 6 of the CB manual) to firmware version 1.11, and had two R3/RSW receivers with firmware version 3.13.
This procedure will use two R3/RSW receivers. Other receivers (eg R5L) can be used but the output ports and firmware version required may be different. Also, the R3/RSW's will communicate to the CB using the EX Bus as this is a better communication method that PPM.
OK, here we go....
1) Configuration/Binding history
When using the EXT Bus configuration, the servo wires from the CB200 Sat1 and Sat2 ports are plugged into the EXT ports of each of the two R3/RSW receivers. If you have never previously bound the two R3/RSW receivers to your Tx, you will have to bind them with the bind plug in the receiver EXT port. This makes the procedure a bit more complicated and you need the spare battery (with the male JR connector).
2) Bind each R3/RSW to the receiver for the first time.
- In Advanced Properties -> Wireless Modes/Trainer, set the mode to Double Path
- Scroll down to "Alarm at:" and set the pulldown to Loss of any receiver.
- insert a bind plug into the EXT port of the first R3/RSW. Plug the lead from the spare battery into another port of this receiver (make sure you get the right polarity)
- Scroll up to Pair primary TX module. Press select. The transmitter will see the receiver and ask if you want to use it. Press yes.
- Unplug the battery and bind plug from the first R3/RSW and set the receiver aside. The transmitter will alarm "signal lost" when you remove power from the R3/RSW. The alarm will continue to go off - yes, it's annoying, deal with it.
- Insert the bind plug into the EXT port of the second R3/RSW and plug the battery into another port of this receiver.
- Scroll down to Pair secondary TX module. Press select. The transmitter will see the receiver and ask if you want to use it. Press yes.
- Unplug the battery and bind plug from the second R3/RSW.
3) Connect the CB, switch, R3/RSW's and battery as shown in Figure 12 in the CB200 manual. Make sure you get the polarity correct and plug everything into the correct ports.
- turn power onto the CB 200 using the magnetic (or other) switch. The transmitter will link up with the receivers and the "signal lost" alarm will mercifully stop.
- just for fun, plug a servo into one of the servo ports of the CB200 (such a throttle, which I have on port 1) and move the stick. You'll note that the servo doesn't move. This is because you haven't yet configured the R3/RSW's to output in EX Bus mode.
4) Use Device Explorer to Configure the two R3/RSW's and the Central Box
- In Model -> Device Explorer you should see "R3 EX" twice in the list. Scroll to the first one and select
- change the output mode to EX Bus. The Tx will ask if you want to apply changes, press yes.
This procedure will use two R3/RSW receivers. Other receivers (eg R5L) can be used but the output ports and firmware version required may be different. Also, the R3/RSW's will communicate to the CB using the EX Bus as this is a better communication method that PPM.
OK, here we go....
1) Configuration/Binding history
When using the EXT Bus configuration, the servo wires from the CB200 Sat1 and Sat2 ports are plugged into the EXT ports of each of the two R3/RSW receivers. If you have never previously bound the two R3/RSW receivers to your Tx, you will have to bind them with the bind plug in the receiver EXT port. This makes the procedure a bit more complicated and you need the spare battery (with the male JR connector).
2) Bind each R3/RSW to the receiver for the first time.
- In Advanced Properties -> Wireless Modes/Trainer, set the mode to Double Path
- Scroll down to "Alarm at:" and set the pulldown to Loss of any receiver.
- insert a bind plug into the EXT port of the first R3/RSW. Plug the lead from the spare battery into another port of this receiver (make sure you get the right polarity)
- Scroll up to Pair primary TX module. Press select. The transmitter will see the receiver and ask if you want to use it. Press yes.
- Unplug the battery and bind plug from the first R3/RSW and set the receiver aside. The transmitter will alarm "signal lost" when you remove power from the R3/RSW. The alarm will continue to go off - yes, it's annoying, deal with it.
- Insert the bind plug into the EXT port of the second R3/RSW and plug the battery into another port of this receiver.
- Scroll down to Pair secondary TX module. Press select. The transmitter will see the receiver and ask if you want to use it. Press yes.
- Unplug the battery and bind plug from the second R3/RSW.
3) Connect the CB, switch, R3/RSW's and battery as shown in Figure 12 in the CB200 manual. Make sure you get the polarity correct and plug everything into the correct ports.
- turn power onto the CB 200 using the magnetic (or other) switch. The transmitter will link up with the receivers and the "signal lost" alarm will mercifully stop.
- just for fun, plug a servo into one of the servo ports of the CB200 (such a throttle, which I have on port 1) and move the stick. You'll note that the servo doesn't move. This is because you haven't yet configured the R3/RSW's to output in EX Bus mode.
4) Use Device Explorer to Configure the two R3/RSW's and the Central Box
- In Model -> Device Explorer you should see "R3 EX" twice in the list. Scroll to the first one and select
- change the output mode to EX Bus. The Tx will ask if you want to apply changes, press yes.
And I can never see the other choices mentioned here:
set the output period as "Auto", scroll to Failsafe, select, and scroll to disable the fail-safe. Press ESC twice to take you back to the Device Explorer
Any help would be appreciated
Edit: After a few frustrating hours yesterday and a few more this morning I found the solution. I tried with one of the other Central Box that I have and it works. This Central Box is defective and will be sent back. Thanks again rcjets_63 your instructions are the best
Last edited by Puttputt maru; 03-02-2014 at 06:50 AM.
#507

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This is going to go down as a real mystery for me anyway. I decided to recheck the one that was not working plugging it on the same model that I had set up on the radio as the original CB200 that was not working.
The full programming was done with the second CB 200 that was working after I gave up on the first one, again on the same model program in the TX. What do you know it works now



So same Tx model programming just full set up done on the second CB200 and the first one that did not showed up on the screen now shows up fine. Search me



Last edited by Puttputt maru; 03-02-2014 at 11:29 AM.
#508

What is the Date time group on your file:
CBOX200.bin
Its in your device menu on your transmitter
it should be Oct29 2013, at 1814 hours
Thats for Transmitter version2.22
I don't have the CBOX 1.0 file because Im running beta 3.2, and require CBOX1.1
CBOX200.bin
Its in your device menu on your transmitter
it should be Oct29 2013, at 1814 hours
Thats for Transmitter version2.22
I don't have the CBOX 1.0 file because Im running beta 3.2, and require CBOX1.1
Last edited by gooseF22; 03-02-2014 at 10:53 AM.
#510


Hopefully this is on topic but does Jeti sell a mechanical switch for the Central Box 200 (that plugs in to the same socket as the magnetic switch)? If not, I assume that people are just switching the individual battery inputs?
#511

1. you can buy the JR power safe switch from Horizon hobby for the Powersafe receiver and it will work
2. You can make a switch that shorts the signal wire to the ground (outside ports)
3. (my pref).. take a short (3 inch extension and plug it in the switch port, and put a bind plug in it.. it will turn it off.. Pull the bind plug and it comes on.. simple and cheap.
#512

My Feedback: (7)

#513

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While on the switch subject: Three questions on different setups.
1) I would like to control my DA 170 ignition remotely, is the SP 06 my best bet or is there anything else?
2) On a large electric plane (2 X 5000mAh 6S) what can I use as a remote switch for the batteries? They will be connected through a Mezon 130 as the speed controller and a CB 200 with R3 switch will take care of the Rx on different batteries
3) Any way to have the Mezon turned on remotely?
(I can get any switches from Jeti as I fly both in Europe and Canada)
1) I would like to control my DA 170 ignition remotely, is the SP 06 my best bet or is there anything else?
2) On a large electric plane (2 X 5000mAh 6S) what can I use as a remote switch for the batteries? They will be connected through a Mezon 130 as the speed controller and a CB 200 with R3 switch will take care of the Rx on different batteries
3) Any way to have the Mezon turned on remotely?
(I can get any switches from Jeti as I fly both in Europe and Canada)
#514

My Feedback: (7)

For my gas engines, I personally use a Tech-Aero IBEC to both power and control the ignition. If you don't like the idea of drawing power for your ignition from your receiver there are a number of ignition kill switches to turn your ignition on/off using a receiver channel. Still, the SP06 look like it should work perfectly fine and is reasonabably priced.
#515


A quick mobile clip of the new Jeti playing with the new TJ20 for the first time today, awesome set up!
The pick up on the turbine is incredibly quick!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRrKH...ature=youtu.be
This is what I call Czech mates!
)
p.s. Even the EDT's cool!
Gary.
The pick up on the turbine is incredibly quick!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRrKH...ature=youtu.be
This is what I call Czech mates!

p.s. Even the EDT's cool!
Gary.
Last edited by madmodelman; 03-05-2014 at 02:17 PM.
#516
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I have installed a mvario in my P-47 to supply me with audible altitude readings via my DS-16 whilst flying sorties. This works admirably. Does anybody have any idea how to disable the vario acoustic rise and sink signalling noises.
John...........
John...........
#517

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Hi RCjets_63,
i noticed that you have the DC model that sits in a tray. Did you always fly with a radio mounted in a tray with a neck strap, or did you make the switch from a handheld radio? I'm interested to know just how different it is to use a radio tray versus using a handheld.
Anyone else with experience using both methods please feel free to chime in.
Thanks,
Andre.
i noticed that you have the DC model that sits in a tray. Did you always fly with a radio mounted in a tray with a neck strap, or did you make the switch from a handheld radio? I'm interested to know just how different it is to use a radio tray versus using a handheld.
Anyone else with experience using both methods please feel free to chime in.
Thanks,
Andre.
#518

A quick mobile clip of the new Jeti playing with the new TJ20 for the first time today, awesome set up!
The pick up on the turbine is incredibly quick!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRrKH...ature=youtu.be
This is what I call Czech mates!
)
p.s. Even the EDT's cool!
Gary.
The pick up on the turbine is incredibly quick!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRrKH...ature=youtu.be
This is what I call Czech mates!

p.s. Even the EDT's cool!
Gary.








#519
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Wow Ive got to admit this thread is getting "technically" overwhelming. Im trying to follow all of the information but shes a bit complicated. I just completed my order through dreamworks and hope I can figure this badboy out. Ive got three questions I hope that I can get answered in simple speak lol.
1) Can someone explain exactly how to auto trim an aircraft with the Jeti TX. Do you just level the plane to the proper orientation manually in the air, hit a switch and its leveled?
2) I ordered an R11 for my Jet. With all the redundant this and two receivers that talk...am I simply safe to install the R11 on its own and go fly??
3) Where the heck is the fuel monitor? espirit says late Feb but thats come and gone.
Thanks guys!
1) Can someone explain exactly how to auto trim an aircraft with the Jeti TX. Do you just level the plane to the proper orientation manually in the air, hit a switch and its leveled?
2) I ordered an R11 for my Jet. With all the redundant this and two receivers that talk...am I simply safe to install the R11 on its own and go fly??
3) Where the heck is the fuel monitor? espirit says late Feb but thats come and gone.
Thanks guys!
#520

My Feedback: (4)

Regards,
Jim
#521

My Feedback: (4)

Andre,
I started out many moons ago with a hand held radio but noticed that I tended to add a bit of elevator input when rolling hard to the left. I figured that a tray radio might solve this problem so I bought an mc-20 (tray style) and used it for years with much success right up to the point where a failed transmitter battery (my fault really) resulted in the end of my 11 year old Bandit. At that point the JR 12X was just being released so I bought one to make the move to 2.4GHz. Sure enough, I found my self-mixing of Ail->Ele was back. After a brief stint with the slightly thinner DX-18 (I needed more than 12 channels), I found the DC-16 and am extremely happy with it.
I still occasionally fly a buddy's plane with a hand held transmitter but generally will not do four point rolls (at low altitude) to the left. Personally, I find that I have a better "feel" of the sticks and this helps isolate left/right from up/down. Further to the better "feel" , after converting one of my planes to Jeti, I noticed that it had been previously trimmed (for my DX-18) with a bit of down and I simply hadn't noticed that, when thumb flying a hand held, I was actually always pulling back slightly on the elevator.
It it is a bit "different" to use a tray vs a hand held but I find that the tray lets my hands and arms relax and gives me a lighter touch on the sticks. The shoulder strap (as opposed to a neck strap) is a must. It is very comfortable, and doesn't pull down on your neck (like a neck strap does). The downside of a tray radio is that you strap it on so you can't just lay it down quickly, like you can with a hand-held, then pick it up again. I also found that it was tougher to accurately taxi while walking as the radio would bounce a bit off my belly :-). The solution to that problem (other than a diet) was to have my 3rd and 4th fingers rest more firmly on the front/side of the radio to stabilize my hand while walking.
Regards,
Jim
I started out many moons ago with a hand held radio but noticed that I tended to add a bit of elevator input when rolling hard to the left. I figured that a tray radio might solve this problem so I bought an mc-20 (tray style) and used it for years with much success right up to the point where a failed transmitter battery (my fault really) resulted in the end of my 11 year old Bandit. At that point the JR 12X was just being released so I bought one to make the move to 2.4GHz. Sure enough, I found my self-mixing of Ail->Ele was back. After a brief stint with the slightly thinner DX-18 (I needed more than 12 channels), I found the DC-16 and am extremely happy with it.
I still occasionally fly a buddy's plane with a hand held transmitter but generally will not do four point rolls (at low altitude) to the left. Personally, I find that I have a better "feel" of the sticks and this helps isolate left/right from up/down. Further to the better "feel" , after converting one of my planes to Jeti, I noticed that it had been previously trimmed (for my DX-18) with a bit of down and I simply hadn't noticed that, when thumb flying a hand held, I was actually always pulling back slightly on the elevator.
It it is a bit "different" to use a tray vs a hand held but I find that the tray lets my hands and arms relax and gives me a lighter touch on the sticks. The shoulder strap (as opposed to a neck strap) is a must. It is very comfortable, and doesn't pull down on your neck (like a neck strap does). The downside of a tray radio is that you strap it on so you can't just lay it down quickly, like you can with a hand-held, then pick it up again. I also found that it was tougher to accurately taxi while walking as the radio would bounce a bit off my belly :-). The solution to that problem (other than a diet) was to have my 3rd and 4th fingers rest more firmly on the front/side of the radio to stabilize my hand while walking.
Regards,
Jim
#522

My Feedback: (4)

Pepperpete,
1) Auto trim is really quite simple. You line up the out-of-trim plane to make a long straight pass. Switch on auto trim and fly the plane by holding the sticks where you have to in order to have it fly straight and level. Let's say the plane tended to nose down and roll left, you would have to hold a bit of right aileron and some up elevator. Auto trim would see these stick inputs and would slowly apply some up trim and some right trim. As these are applied by auto trim, you will be able to relax your inputs to the sticks. Switch off auto trim before you make a turn otherwise it will use those stick movements as inputs to trim. It may take a couple of passes to complete the the auto trimming.
2) Before you got your Jeti, you were likely using a radio setup with a single transmitter and you had a single receiver in your plane. Using a single receiver with a Jeti is safer than that because at least you have two transmitter modules. Go ahead and fly (single path mode) but a second receiver is a good idea.
3) No idea. I'm using MUI-30's wired into my fuel pump to monitor fuel use and pump status.
Regards,
Jim
1) Auto trim is really quite simple. You line up the out-of-trim plane to make a long straight pass. Switch on auto trim and fly the plane by holding the sticks where you have to in order to have it fly straight and level. Let's say the plane tended to nose down and roll left, you would have to hold a bit of right aileron and some up elevator. Auto trim would see these stick inputs and would slowly apply some up trim and some right trim. As these are applied by auto trim, you will be able to relax your inputs to the sticks. Switch off auto trim before you make a turn otherwise it will use those stick movements as inputs to trim. It may take a couple of passes to complete the the auto trimming.
2) Before you got your Jeti, you were likely using a radio setup with a single transmitter and you had a single receiver in your plane. Using a single receiver with a Jeti is safer than that because at least you have two transmitter modules. Go ahead and fly (single path mode) but a second receiver is a good idea.
3) No idea. I'm using MUI-30's wired into my fuel pump to monitor fuel use and pump status.
Regards,
Jim
#523
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I think that it is disabled in the Timers/Sensors -> Vario menu. Change the Mode to Off. Use Timers/Sensors -> Voice Output -> Sensors & Variables to have a voice output of the relative altitude and/or Times/Sensors -> Displayed Telemetry to show the relative altitude in the display.
Regards,
Jim
Regards,
Jim
Disable it, so simple.
I had succeeded in my own way. Seems there are many convoluted ways to achieve your aims on this system. I like it!
Regards
John......
#524

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Andre,
I started out many moons ago with a hand held radio but noticed that I tended to add a bit of elevator input when rolling hard to the left. I figured that a tray radio might solve this problem so I bought an mc-20 (tray style) and used it for years with much success right up to the point where a failed transmitter battery (my fault really) resulted in the end of my 11 year old Bandit. At that point the JR 12X was just being released so I bought one to make the move to 2.4GHz. Sure enough, I found my self-mixing of Ail->Ele was back. After a brief stint with the slightly thinner DX-18 (I needed more than 12 channels), I found the DC-16 and am extremely happy with it.
I still occasionally fly a buddy's plane with a hand held transmitter but generally will not do four point rolls (at low altitude) to the left. Personally, I find that I have a better "feel" of the sticks and this helps isolate left/right from up/down. Further to the better "feel" , after converting one of my planes to Jeti, I noticed that it had been previously trimmed (for my DX-18) with a bit of down and I simply hadn't noticed that, when thumb flying a hand held, I was actually always pulling back slightly on the elevator.
It it is a bit "different" to use a tray vs a hand held but I find that the tray lets my hands and arms relax and gives me a lighter touch on the sticks. The shoulder strap (as opposed to a neck strap) is a must. It is very comfortable, and doesn't pull down on your neck (like a neck strap does). The downside of a tray radio is that you strap it on so you can't just lay it down quickly, like you can with a hand-held, then pick it up again. I also found that it was tougher to accurately taxi while walking as the radio would bounce a bit off my belly :-). The solution to that problem (other than a diet) was to have my 3rd and 4th fingers rest more firmly on the front/side of the radio to stabilize my hand while walking.
Regards,
Jim
I started out many moons ago with a hand held radio but noticed that I tended to add a bit of elevator input when rolling hard to the left. I figured that a tray radio might solve this problem so I bought an mc-20 (tray style) and used it for years with much success right up to the point where a failed transmitter battery (my fault really) resulted in the end of my 11 year old Bandit. At that point the JR 12X was just being released so I bought one to make the move to 2.4GHz. Sure enough, I found my self-mixing of Ail->Ele was back. After a brief stint with the slightly thinner DX-18 (I needed more than 12 channels), I found the DC-16 and am extremely happy with it.
I still occasionally fly a buddy's plane with a hand held transmitter but generally will not do four point rolls (at low altitude) to the left. Personally, I find that I have a better "feel" of the sticks and this helps isolate left/right from up/down. Further to the better "feel" , after converting one of my planes to Jeti, I noticed that it had been previously trimmed (for my DX-18) with a bit of down and I simply hadn't noticed that, when thumb flying a hand held, I was actually always pulling back slightly on the elevator.
It it is a bit "different" to use a tray vs a hand held but I find that the tray lets my hands and arms relax and gives me a lighter touch on the sticks. The shoulder strap (as opposed to a neck strap) is a must. It is very comfortable, and doesn't pull down on your neck (like a neck strap does). The downside of a tray radio is that you strap it on so you can't just lay it down quickly, like you can with a hand-held, then pick it up again. I also found that it was tougher to accurately taxi while walking as the radio would bounce a bit off my belly :-). The solution to that problem (other than a diet) was to have my 3rd and 4th fingers rest more firmly on the front/side of the radio to stabilize my hand while walking.
Regards,
Jim
Jim,
Excellent information. Thank you for the detailed response. I'm contemplating getting the Jeti DS-16 as my radio of choice to get back into the hobby and was comparing prices between it and the DC-16 and wanted to know the differences in "feel" between the two. I've never flown with a tray style radio before as I've always had a 'feeling' that my hand eye coordination would be impacted and the 'sticks' would feel awkward if I tried to fly using a tray.
All in all, they both seem to be awesome radios.
Thanks again for the information.
Regards,
Andre.