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Jeti-duplex-ds-16-2.4-ghz

Old 04-09-2014, 07:47 PM
  #701  
Pepperpete
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Hey guys can someone help me with something. I've been able to mix pretty much anything I want without difficulty but I can't figure out how to make the center knob (or any switch) emulate my throttles *trim* for my turbine. Sorry if this seems basic. I really wish they didn't limit the trim step to 10 percent for the throttle. Why not let us decide how much percent we want?

And the second question...I was able to make my P7 knob work for my gyro sensitivity using the "tune" section in the gyro menu. Is there any way at all I can display my gain amount on the main telemetry screen instead of having to go into the gyro menu each time to see what I'm at?

Long story short I want the P7 knob to adjust my gyro (it does) and display that percentage on the main screen and I want to use the P6 knob for my throttle trim instead of the trim buttons. Thanks for the help!
Old 04-09-2014, 08:07 PM
  #702  
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Originally Posted by gooseF22
guys, here is another setup modification to chew on..

We all like the CB200.. its a cool setup.. It gives you a real time usage of your receiver batts, servo isolation, redundant source.. all good stuff.

Here is an idea if you are using an R14/18.

Install two MUI30's in between your batteries and your switch.. They will then stay powered at a low state while your batts are plugged in, and reset when you unplug your batts to charge them.. I am going to install them just prior to my wolverine switch in my Kingcat.. then it goes to twin inputs into the R14.. Since Im switching it to A123's, I will know exactly what I use..

Also, if you happen to use lion or lipos and a regulator, this setup will give you Actual battery voltage..

I know there are other good ways, but I really like the idea of knowing exactly how much juice is in my batts, and how much it expended, especially if using A123's, because the only reliable reading with them is MAH used..

If you use an R14or 18, you can also add a 3rd receiver in clone mode if you desire.. just assign the morse code to an unused letter, and associate a file with it, such as "second PPM weak"

Also during setup, it will show you real time current, so you can instantly see if a servo is binding.. just like the CB

Again, its an idea if you already have a standard receiver.. It would also work actually in any model as long as you disconnect the battery when you break for the day, so it won't run it down.. we install the MUI30 with bullet plugs at each end for our fuel pumps, so we can remove them if needed

On my electrics, I wired up an Mui 50 or 75 with plugs at each end, so I could use them for setups, and if desired leave them in.. Its already saved me a couple packs, with the over current alarm..

goose..
Goose,

is there a way to have the Central Box reset its internal min/max values automatically each time I plug in my batteries? I know that the MUI sensors can be configured that way via "trigger values", but this option seems completely missing in the CB menu?! Problem is that my mAh counter keeps adding until I reset all min/max values manually. I know that I can configure a switch to reset all values, but if I forget to flip that switch before the first flight after having charged the batteries, the counter & alarm isn't worth anything.

Thomas

Last edited by bluelevel; 04-09-2014 at 08:10 PM.
Old 04-10-2014, 04:53 AM
  #703  
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Originally Posted by bluelevel
Goose,

is there a way to have the Central Box reset its internal min/max values automatically each time I plug in my batteries? I know that the MUI sensors can be configured that way via "trigger values", but this option seems completely missing in the CB menu?! Problem is that my mAh counter keeps adding until I reset all min/max values manually. I know that I can configure a switch to reset all values, but if I forget to flip that switch before the first flight after having charged the batteries, the counter & alarm isn't worth anything.

Thomas
Thomas, Yes and no..

No there is no automatic reset function in the Cbox.

However, you can build a logical switch that would automatically reset it.. read the logical switch section in the manual. You could configure something like "brakes full" AND "throttle full" - (engine start)
or stack a logic series, such as 2 logic switches 1. Brakes full AND Throttle Full, and 2nd one (Logic 1, AND Gear Down), something like that..
Pick some switch combination you use every time.. when it happens a menu will pop up and ask you if you want to reset.. just pick some logic that you will only use on the ground.

When we get tx3.0, you will be able to configure another sensor to the logic to reset it.. something like when the MUI30 sees <1 amp, or when it sees 0MaH, then ask me to reset the CBox.. so hang in there .. won't be long..
Old 04-10-2014, 04:57 AM
  #704  
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Originally Posted by gooseF22
<snip>
It would also work actually in any model as long as you disconnect the battery when you break for the day, so it won't run it down.. we install the MUI30 with bullet plugs at each end for our fuel pumps, so we can remove them if needed
<snip>
goose..
I was also concerned about running my batteries down if I forgot to disconnect the receiver packs from my CB200 so I ran a little experiment using my battery charger to see just how much current was being drawn. Not the most accurate way to figure this out but should be a decent ballpark type of number. Basically what I did was fully charge both A123 packs in my plane and I left them connected to the CB200 for 4 days. I then recharged the batteries and recorded how many milli-amps each pack took. After 96 hours, 18 milliamps was needed to be fully recharge each pack. If I did the match correctly, that indicates the CB200 consumed about 375 microamps per hour. At that rate it would take nearly a year to fully drain a pair of 2500ma packs. I'm going to repeat the test using a longer time frame but it looks like it isn't a big deal if you forget to disconnect your batteries unless you're putting the model in long term storage. It certainly doesn't look like there will be any problems with a model that is being flown on a regular basis.
Old 04-10-2014, 05:02 AM
  #705  
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Goose,

I was asking for the reset function to have a reliable "mAH used" counter to set an alarm when my receiver batteries need to be recharged. As you previously stated, this is more reliable than just relying to the voltage drop. To achieve this I only need to reset the counter before the first flight of th day, because I usually charge my receiver batteries before every trip to the field. I cannot imagine any possible way to configure a logical switch to detect this :-)

Thomas
Old 04-10-2014, 05:06 AM
  #706  
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Originally Posted by Pepperpete
Hey guys can someone help me with something. I've been able to mix pretty much anything I want without difficulty but I can't figure out how to make the center knob (or any switch) emulate my throttles *trim* for my turbine. Sorry if this seems basic. I really wish they didn't limit the trim step to 10 percent for the throttle. Why not let us decide how much percent we want?

And the second question...I was able to make my P7 knob work for my gyro sensitivity using the "tune" section in the gyro menu. Is there any way at all I can display my gain amount on the main telemetry screen instead of having to go into the gyro menu each time to see what I'm at?

Long story short I want the P7 knob to adjust my gyro (it does) and display that percentage on the main screen and I want to use the P6 knob for my throttle trim instead of the trim buttons. Thanks for the help!
throttle: go into function menu and select the knob as a TRIM function for the Throttle and set it to some value like 25%.. Then the knob will move the trim value of the throttle up and down.. caution though, it moves it up and down through its full range.. you can play with the numbers in servo output to get it the way you want, for example if you have a gasser you want to have an adjustable trim via knob..

dont mess with trying to set a knob in the digital trim menu.. its designed to be a step function.. trim the throttle Function in the function menu.. I think that trim section needs a little improvement to allow proportional trim.. thats on my list to ask for..

If you want a true knob throttle trim now, say p8, and you want to only allow it to trim in the lower 50%, then a free mix is needed..
Throttle to throttle, P8 knob to activate, proportional, and set up a 3point curve at say 30%, then zero out the upper IN /Out value, so it looks flat for the last 50% of throttle travel. select Master link negative and single direction. then it will only mix in the lower 50%.. It takes some messing around with it.

In tx3.0, the trim function will be able to go to 100%

as far as displaying gain, I could not find a way to display it other than using the servo output screen, which is really what should be used.. thats what is really going to the gyro..

Last edited by gooseF22; 04-10-2014 at 05:44 AM.
Old 04-10-2014, 05:27 AM
  #707  
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How can you get the transmitter to display each receiver pack as opposed to receiver voltage on the telemetry display? I went to Displayed Telemetry and added U Accu 1 [V] and this adds CBOX200-1:U Accu 1 to the display but it only show a "-". At first I thought that the dual receiver voltage display was showing each receiver packs voltage but it is apparently showing the voltage seen by each R3, receiver as when I disconnect a pack, the display doesn't change..


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Old 04-10-2014, 05:54 AM
  #708  
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Originally Posted by wfield0455
How can you get the transmitter to display each receiver pack as opposed to receiver voltage on the telemetry display? I went to Displayed Telemetry and added U Accu 1 [V] and this adds CBOX200-1:U Accu 1 to the display but it only show a "-". At first I thought that the dual receiver voltage display was showing each receiver packs voltage but it is apparently showing the voltage seen by each R3, receiver as when I disconnect a pack, the display doesn't change..


the Rx does display receiver voltage..
I went into the Uaccu1 [v] and it shows battery value on mine.. it shows 0 when batt isn't plugged in, so recommend you delete the telemetry points and add it back.. It might have been dormant from your setup..
Old 04-10-2014, 05:56 AM
  #709  
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guys, I gotta actually go to work this week, so won't be on as much.. cheers..
Old 04-10-2014, 06:55 AM
  #710  
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Originally Posted by wfield0455
I was also concerned about running my batteries down if I forgot to disconnect the receiver packs from my CB200 so I ran a little experiment using my battery charger to see just how much current was being drawn. Not the most accurate way to figure this out but should be a decent ballpark type of number. Basically what I did was fully charge both A123 packs in my plane and I left them connected to the CB200 for 4 days. I then recharged the batteries and recorded how many milli-amps each pack took. After 96 hours, 18 milliamps was needed to be fully recharge each pack. If I did the match correctly, that indicates the CB200 consumed about 375 microamps per hour. At that rate it would take nearly a year to fully drain a pair of 2500ma packs. I'm going to repeat the test using a longer time frame but it looks like it isn't a big deal if you forget to disconnect your batteries unless you're putting the model in long term storage. It certainly doesn't look like there will be any problems with a model that is being flown on a regular basis.
Good info

from the manual:
[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD="bgcolor: rgb(100.000000%, 100.000000%, 100.000000%), colspan: 2"] [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD] [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD] [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD] [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD] [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD] [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] Consumption in the off state with magnetic switch


[/TD]
[TD] 120uA


[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] Consumption on the off state with the RC switch


[/TD]
[TD] 140 uA


[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD] [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD] [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD] [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD] [/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]


the A123's will self discharge right after charging.. use a lipo to measure it if you like... It would take a year to run them down. If you use a switch instead of the mag/wireless switches, its probably more in the 80micro amp range.. thats pretty common..
Old 04-10-2014, 10:56 AM
  #711  
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A couple of folks asked me about the setup for an MUI-30 being used as a fuel flow sensor and flameout detector. Here is detailed procedure for installation & setup:

1) Install the MUI-30 yellow amperage leads on the positive lead for the fuel pump. In the case of JetCat, that is the sky blue colored wire. Attaching the MUI-30 using bullet connectors is my prefered method as I can quickly remove the sensor when returning the turbine/fuel pump for service. Simply cut the fuel pump positive wire at a convenient point (such as a bend), solder a female bullet connector on the wire to the ECU connector and male bullet connector on the wire to the fuel pump. Solder a male bullet connector on the MUI-30 wire labeled + and a female on the wire labeled -.
2) Connect the black/red voltage leads to the ECU battery. In my Rafale, I'm using a LiPo battery for the ECU that comes with a 6 inch lead with a Deans connector. The battery is located in the nose so I had to make a 14 gauge cable extension with a Deans male on one end (to plug into the battery) and a Multiplex connector on the other end to plug into the ECU. Since the MUI-30 is located only a few inches away from the ECU, I also soldered a wire pair with a JR male lead to the Multiplex connector and simply crimped a JR female connector onto the MUI-30 voltage leads. Since I've got connectors on both the MUI-30's current and voltage leads, I can remove the sensor easily.
3) Sensor setup: Using the manual for the MUI-30 as a guide, access the sensor settings using the Jetibox application. Set the values as follows:

Start trigger: 0.5A
Auto erase: Enabled

4) Radio setup: In Displayed Telemetry, add Voltage (telem) and add Capacity (telem) to get ECU voltage and pump capacity (it will be displayed as MUI-30 Voltage and MUI-30 Capacity). If you are interested, you can also add Current (telem) which tells you the amperage being used by the fuel pump. By moving each item of data up/down in the list, you can adjust where the data appears on the screen.
5) Alarm setup: Create an alarm for Current < 0.1 amps and have it play a wave file (mine says "Flameout Flameout Flameout"). Also, create an alarm for low voltage on the ECU pack saying "ECU Battery Low Voltage". My alarm is set at 7.1 V since I'm using 2S LiPo pack and a kerostart turbine which has a high amperage draw at startup. If the pack is getting a bit low, the alarm will trigger on startup. Set an alarm on Capacity to play a wave file (mine says "Bingo Fuel"). You will have to experiment to figure out what value to use. My Reaction has a 3.8 Litre tank (125 oz) and alarms at 390mah while my Rafale has 5.75 Litres (188 oz) and alarms at 550 mah. Use your throttle trim switch to activate the alarms. (I used a two position switch which functions as throttle trim/kill). DO NOT SET THE ALARMS TO REPEAT; it will be very distracting to have your radio repeat "Flameout Flameout Flameout Flameout Flameout Flameout Flameout Flameout Flameout....." while you are trying to shoot a deadstick landing.
6) Functionality: When you are ready to startup, flip the throttle trim switch to activate the alarms. You will immediately get a "Flameout flameout flameout" since the engine has not yet started and current to the fuel pump is less than 0.1A. However, this alarm will stop when the fuel pump starts. The capacity from the last run will also be displayed for several seconds until the data is reset (by auto erase) when the pump amperage exceeds 0.5A (the start trigger setting).

I hope this helps :-)

Regards,

Jim

Last edited by rcjets_63; 04-21-2014 at 09:59 PM.
Old 04-10-2014, 01:58 PM
  #712  
Pepperpete
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Originally Posted by gooseF22
throttle: go into function menu and select the knob as a TRIM function for the Throttle and set it to some value like 25%.. Then the knob will move the trim value of the throttle up and down.. caution though, it moves it up and down through its full range.. you can play with the numbers in servo output to get it the way you want, for example if you have a gasser you want to have an adjustable trim via knob..

dont mess with trying to set a knob in the digital trim menu.. its designed to be a step function.. trim the throttle Function in the function menu.. I think that trim section needs a little improvement to allow proportional trim.. thats on my list to ask for..

If you want a true knob throttle trim now, say p8, and you want to only allow it to trim in the lower 50%, then a free mix is needed..
Throttle to throttle, P8 knob to activate, proportional, and set up a 3point curve at say 30%, then zero out the upper IN /Out value, so it looks flat for the last 50% of throttle travel. select Master link negative and single direction. then it will only mix in the lower 50%.. It takes some messing around with it.

In tx3.0, the trim function will be able to go to 100%

as far as displaying gain, I could not find a way to display it other than using the servo output screen, which is really what should be used.. thats what is really going to the gyro..
Thanks Goose. VERY happy to hear we can just change the throttle trim to 100 percent in the future. Seems silly it wasn't there in the first place. Should solve the problem.
Old 04-10-2014, 02:45 PM
  #713  
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Originally Posted by rcjets_63
A couple of folks asked me about the setup for an MUI-30 being used as a fuel flow sensor and flameout detector. Here is detailed procedure for installation & setup:

1) Install the MUI-30 on the positive lead for the fuel pump. In the case of JetCat, that is the sky blue colored wire. Attaching the MUI-30 using bullet connectors is my prefered method as I can quickly remove the sensor when returning the turbine/fuel pump for service. Simply cut the fuel pump positive wire at a convenient point (such as a bend), solder a female bullet connector on the wire to the ECU connector and male bullet connector on the wire to the fuel pump. Solder a male bullet connector on the MUI-30 wire labeled + and a female on the wire labeled -.
2) Connect the voltage leads to the ECU battery. In my Rafale, I'm using a LiPo battery for the ECU that comes with a 6 inch lead with a Deans connector. The battery is located in the nose so I had to make a 14 gauge cable extension with a Deans male on one end (to plug into the battery) and a Multiplex connector on the other end to plug into the ECU. Since the MUI-30 is located only a few inches away from the ECU, I also soldered a wire pair with a JR male lead to the Multiplex connector and simply crimped a JR female connector onto the MUI-30 voltage leads. Since I've got connectors on both the MUI-30's current and voltage leads, I can remove the sensor easily.
3) Sensor setup: Using the manual for the MUI-30 as a guide, access the sensor settings using the Jetibox application. Set the values as follows:

Start trigger: 0.5A
Auto erase: Enabled

4) Radio setup: In Displayed Telemetry, add Voltage (telem) and add Capacity (telem) to get ECU voltage and pump capacity (it will be displayed as MUI-30 Voltage and MUI-30 Capacity). If you are interested, you can also add Current (telem) which tells you the amperage being used by the fuel pump. By moving each item of data up/down in the list, you can adjust where the data appears on the screen.
5) Alarm setup: Create an alarm for Current < 0.1 amps and have it play a wave file (mine says "Flameout Flameout Flameout"). Also, create an alarm for low voltage on the ECU pack saying "ECU Battery Low Voltage". My alarm is set at 7.1 V since I'm using 2S LiPo pack and a kerostart turbine which has a high amperage draw at startup. If the pack is getting a bit low, the alarm will trigger on startup. Set an alarm on Capacity to play a wave file (mine says "Bingo Fuel"). You will have to experiment to figure out what value to use. My Reaction has a 3.8 Litre tank (125 oz) and alarms at 390mah while my Rafale has 5.75 Litres (188 oz) and alarms at 550 mah. Use your throttle trim switch to activate the alarms. (I used a two position switch which functions as throttle trim/kill). DO NOT SET THE ALARMS TO REPEAT; it will be very distracting to have your radio repeat "Flameout Flameout Flameout Flameout Flameout Flameout Flameout Flameout Flameout....." while you are trying to shoot a deadstick landing.
6) Functionality: When you are ready to startup, flip the throttle trim switch to activate the alarms. You will immediately get a "Flameout flameout flameout" since the engine has not yet started and current to the fuel pump is less than 0.1A. However, this alarm will stop when the fuel pump starts. The capacity from the last run will also be displayed for several seconds until the data is reset (by auto erase) when the pump amperage exceeds 0.5A (the start trigger setting).

I hope this helps :-)

Regards,

Jim
Thanks Jim this helps a lot.

As always your the Man!

Stan
Old 04-10-2014, 05:07 PM
  #714  
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Originally Posted by gooseF22
the Rx does display receiver voltage..
I went into the Uaccu1 [v] and it shows battery value on mine.. it shows 0 when batt isn't plugged in, so recommend you delete the telemetry points and add it back.. It might have been dormant from your setup..
Since the Uaccu1 [V] worked for you I decided to fiddle with this a bit more. I tried deleting it and adding it back and anything else I could think of with out any success. If always displayed "-".
I then decided to keep scrolling farther down the display of available telemetry items and after temperature and RPM there was second set of U Accu1 [V], U Accu2 [V], U Accu1 [I], U Accu 2 [I] entries so I selected these and added them to the telemetry display. Now I get valid readings for each of the batteries.. For some reason these are in my list of available telemetry items twice and ONLY the second entry actually works. This sounds like a bug which I suspect was triggered when I was rebinding to other receivers as part of the glitching servo issue I was having recently. I think I may have reversed which of the two R3 eceivers was primary and which was secondary as the central box used to show up under the second R3 in device explorer and now it is under the first R3 in the list. I suspect that when they got rearranged, it created new additions to the telemetry display list and the old ones didn't get removed but no longer work.
Old 04-11-2014, 09:31 AM
  #715  
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try to refresh the sensors using auto refresh.. I saw that before
Old 04-11-2014, 09:39 AM
  #716  
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Originally Posted by bluelevel
Goose,

I was asking for the reset function to have a reliable "mAH used" counter to set an alarm when my receiver batteries need to be recharged. As you previously stated, this is more reliable than just relying to the voltage drop. To achieve this I only need to reset the counter before the first flight of th day, because I usually charge my receiver batteries before every trip to the field. I cannot imagine any possible way to configure a logical switch to detect this :-)

Thomas
Yep, thats what I do too... so I put it on my volume switch..

I reset it after each charge and let it count..


IF you really wanted to, you could use this methodology on the turbine battery, but would have to account for starter and cool down mah used.. But what I do is use a big enough turbine battery that it will cover all my flights until I have to charge receiver batts..

I have one Mui50 with plugs on both ends, which I will temporarily install on the battery for my turbines to see actual battery usage per start/cool.. the only variable then becomes the fuel pump runtime, the start and cool down should remain constant per flight..

Thusly the Mui30 fuel gage that Jim has shown the setup on.. It works extremely well, and is very consistent.. when I was out in phd last week, we flew 3 flights.. all three flights were within a short time of each other, and the MaH readings were all very close..

If you want to know how much exactly you have in MAH, however, fly a flight, then keep it running until you see a bubble come to the air trap.. then shut down.. make a note.. thats your brick wall..

the cool part is there is no more guessing.. we have the tools now to know whats going on in our jets

Last edited by gooseF22; 04-11-2014 at 09:45 AM.
Old 04-11-2014, 09:51 AM
  #717  
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Another cool thing:

when you set up a jet try this:

1. with a CBox, use one battery and monitor the CB amperage.. it will help you see if anything binds..

2. with a standard receiver, make up a Mui30 with a couple plugs on each end, and plug it into your battery line, either permanently or temporarily, and set up the amperage and voltage of the battery on your transmitter...

As you set up the model and bang the controls around, you will be able to see the amperage and voltage sag.. but you can also look a the log.. If your system can handle the current on 1 battery, then 2 will give you 100% redundancy.. good to go..

very cool takes the doubt away..

I caught a gear servo that was binding just a tad, and had a failing gear train.. as well as a bad battery, it had been like that for a couple yrs..
so I figure I got a free transmitter now with the savings I had on not losing those planes..

Last edited by gooseF22; 04-11-2014 at 09:54 AM.
Old 04-11-2014, 10:33 AM
  #718  
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Originally Posted by wfield0455
Since the Uaccu1 [V] worked for you I decided to fiddle with this a bit more. I tried deleting it and adding it back and anything else I could think of with out any success. If always displayed "-".
I then decided to keep scrolling farther down the display of available telemetry items and after temperature and RPM there was second set of U Accu1 [V], U Accu2 [V], U Accu1 [I], U Accu 2 [I] entries so I selected these and added them to the telemetry display. Now I get valid readings for each of the batteries.. For some reason these are in my list of available telemetry items twice and ONLY the second entry actually works. This sounds like a bug which I suspect was triggered when I was rebinding to other receivers as part of the glitching servo issue I was having recently. I think I may have reversed which of the two R3 eceivers was primary and which was secondary as the central box used to show up under the second R3 in device explorer and now it is under the first R3 in the list. I suspect that when they got rearranged, it created new additions to the telemetry display list and the old ones didn't get removed but no longer work.
Originally Posted by gooseF22
try to refresh the sensors using auto refresh.. I saw that before

Exactly what happened to me and refreshing on Goose advice solved it.
Old 04-11-2014, 10:55 AM
  #719  
gooseF22
 
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Here is Putts post from another forum to make an analog throttle trim.. works..

"Create a mix from Throttle to Throttle with a curve preset "X<0" and with Master value at 10% for example(max. trim value). Then assign a Switch to this mix that activates it proportionally - for example P8 and in that menu press the "Centr" button.

This mix will influence the lower part of the throttle path (no influence to maximum throttle).

I will add to not forget to uncheck the assymetrical throttle box.

An example of the curve"

Old 04-11-2014, 11:03 AM
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Puttputt maru
 
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A visual
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Old 04-11-2014, 11:18 AM
  #721  
wfield0455
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Originally Posted by gooseF22
try to refresh the sensors using auto refresh.. I saw that before
Ok, I wasn't quite sure what you were saying here so I went and poked around a bit further but still couldn't find any way to reset the senor list under Displayed Telemetry.
Then I noticed Sensors and Logging and there was the AUTO button.. Worked like a charm and now the Displayed Telemetry list is accurate and everything is working as
expected.

While helping a friend set up a new airplane yesterday I ran across something that I thought would be a nice addition to the DS16 software. When setting up a throttle curve under
Function Curves -> Throttle, it would be nice if RPM telemetry, if available, were displayed while you're tweaking the throttle curves. My friend is using a Spektrum DX18 with his new airplane and the DX18 displayed the engine RPM under Throttle Curve. It was very helpful to be able to see the engine RPM while tweaking the curves for things like high idle, etc.
Old 04-11-2014, 11:30 AM
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Puttputt maru
 
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I have used it with helicopters and the Mezon and I don't see why it could not be used with airplanes and RPM sensors.

All you need to do is set up your telemetry to have the RPM read out to you the actual RPM value. I use my iphone earphone to better hear it over the noise. Works like a charm when setting up everything on the bench (could be used at the field too)
Old 04-12-2014, 11:37 AM
  #723  
REDBULL FRANCE
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Hello,

I bought one for my CB200 RC Switch is when I made ​​the pairing is ok, the record says that green LED confirms operation.
The LED on my RC Switch is Red is normal?
Old 04-12-2014, 01:59 PM
  #724  
LA jetguy
 
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Redbull... you must have a RCSW... they have a small "RED" LED indicating on position.... its normal..
Old 04-12-2014, 02:03 PM
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REDBULL FRANCE
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ok thank you,
The manual is not very clear:




Switching is indicated by a green LED that is visible through the
opening on the side of the RC Switch.
Setting the polarity of the switch is specific for each JETI model
product, in the chart below there is a list of several supported
devices and their RC Switch settings for DC and DS transmitters

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