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Pilot-RC Gulfstream G650 Build Thread

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Pilot-RC Gulfstream G650 Build Thread

Old 04-14-2016, 04:11 PM
  #1  
aehaas
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Default Pilot-RC Gulfstream G650 Build Thread

I obtained the new Pilot-RC G650 as an ARF kit that should contain all parts except the receiver, batteries and turbine engines with associated electronics. The single shipping box came air DHL and was a wooden box about 8 or 9 feet long. It was fairly damaged looking from the outside but everything inside was in perfect condition, no scratches or digs that I could find. Unpacking was uneventful.

It seems as though everything is included. The hardware, servos, connecting rods with ball ends are included. There are 2 fuel cells as well as fuel air traps for each of the engines. There is ample fuel line and air line. A bunch of air line connectors of various types are included as well as 4 air reservoir bottles. The controllers for the lighting, air system, brakes, battery management and landing gear is in the box. Hefty landing gear with dual wheels for the mains and the nose gear is supplemented by dual air brakes on each of the main landing gear wheels (4 brakes total).

Air cylinders are already mounted to the installed active gear doors and also the air brakes on the top of the wings. Air lines and servo lead extensions are pre installed in the wings as well the length of the fuselage. It seems to have a few pounds of weight in the nose so that minimal changes should be required when it comes time to balance the model.

The model is basically of a balsa constructed framework then covered with sheet balsa. This is then covered with Oratex, a woven iron-on covering I believe. It is then painted over with a nice smooth paint so no weave is seen. The gold and blue trim paint is already done for you. Access to the fuselage is as good as it gets via multiple hatches on the bottom that are nicely fit so that they are not easily seen.
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Old 04-14-2016, 05:09 PM
  #2  
erh7771
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Where can one purchase this model ?

thx in advance
Old 04-14-2016, 05:34 PM
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myersflyers
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http://www.pilot-rc.com/Dealers.aspx
Old 04-15-2016, 10:24 AM
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We all want to see the nose section. ;-)
Old 04-15-2016, 11:13 AM
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aehaas
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You can get more information and pictures and a video here:

http://www.pilot-rc.com/ProductShow.aspx?id=127


I will get more pictures up when I get things going shortly. I am thinking it will take me a month or so to get it all together.

aehaas
Old 04-15-2016, 11:53 AM
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aehaas
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Here are some canopy pictures. The actual unit is balsa wood with the outside being a thin shaped plastic. There is room inside for pilots if you wish. The thin plastic actually drapes over the outside of the fuselage for a really good seal. The fit is good but the color is off slightly. Maybe I can paint it over for a better match if it bothers me. For now, I am not worried.

The main cabin windows are a cut out of silver plastic, slightly recessed. I prefer this to clear. It is realistic and you do not have to see inside that is just full of "stuff".
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Old 04-15-2016, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by FalconWings View Post
We all want to see the nose section. ;-)
Agreed. The sexiest thing about the Gulfstream aircraft (not the recently acquired Astras, yuk) is the forward third of the aircraft ( the long wings are awesome too but easy to duplicate). I have NO idea why you'd put a hatch there to mess up the outline.....
Old 04-16-2016, 04:14 AM
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aehaas
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Originally Posted by sideshow View Post
Agreed. The sexiest thing about the Gulfstream aircraft (not the recently acquired Astras, yuk) is the forward third of the aircraft ( the long wings are awesome too but easy to duplicate). I have NO idea why you'd put a hatch there to mess up the outline.....
The front will be the easiest place to put things you need to access like the receiver on-off switch, battery charging points, air fill points and gauges, controller board for my iGyro, fuel cell filling points, stopcocks, et cetera. I am not sure where I will put everything just now but the front seems like the best place to put a lot of these things.

aehaas
Old 04-16-2016, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by aehaas View Post
The front will be the easiest place to put things you need to access like the receiver on-off switch, battery charging points, air fill points and gauges, controller board for my iGyro, fuel cell filling points, stopcocks, et cetera. I am not sure where I will put everything just now but the front seems like the best place to put a lot of these things.

aehaas
I'd put it anywhere else to avoid having that horrible cockpit hatch. I'd glue that thing and seal the edges, and figure out where to place the equipment.
Old 04-16-2016, 05:42 AM
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BTW the lower hatch seems ideal for installing equipment.
Old 04-16-2016, 08:40 AM
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Looks like the nose wheel is on backwards. The landing lights are going to face backwards.
Old 04-16-2016, 03:10 PM
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aehaas
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"I'd put it anywhere else to avoid having that horrible cockpit hatch. I'd glue that thing and seal the edges, and figure out where to place the equipment."

I suppose it is possible, I could access everything through the side stairwell
door. But it would be real tight. Maybe I'll see how it all can fit when I get there.

aehaas
Old 04-16-2016, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Shinwalk View Post
Looks like the nose wheel is on backwards. The landing lights are going to face backwards.
I just today put it on the servo, pointed the other way, and will add the lights tomorrow. It is now correct. It was just spun around without any orientation at the time of the photo.

Last edited by aehaas; 04-16-2016 at 05:48 PM. Reason: added content
Old 04-16-2016, 05:54 PM
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aehaas
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Assembly: Elevators:
Assemble the servo to the cover plate using the wooden blocks and metal servo arm. Rough sand or drill small shallow holes in the bottom of the wooden blocks to increase the surface area of contact. Use a fillet of glue on the mating edges of the blocks to further reinforce adherence to the servo cover plate.




Shave the block where it touches the hinge point inside for a better fit. Pre drill the 4 servo recess corner holes on the horizontal stab, tap and add a drop of thin CA glue to strengthen the holes.

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Old 04-16-2016, 06:01 PM
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The elevator servo horns need to be shortened, then sand them ALL so that the glue sticks to the inserted portion.
Remove the Oratex from the area where the servo horn plate is to be glued down at the base of the horns.
Mount the servo to the servo hatch door then mount the door to the opening. Install the connecting rod. This will allow for the proper orientation of the location for the elevator horns. They should be perpendicular to the hinge line. There are two parallel horns that go through and are aligned by the slotted skirt. Make lines using a marker to locate the slot lines then cut them out with a Dremel tool. Use properly applied epoxy to glue in the horns and the alignment plate.




Use the connecting rods supplied, note the adjustment tools are provided. They will be adjusted later.
Similarly install the other servos. Note that there is a single longer connecting rod. This is for the rudder.
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Old 04-17-2016, 01:36 PM
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aehaas
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Wing servos:


The flaps are just like the elevators. The rear most portion of the aileron servos must be up against the servo hatch door and you may have to sand down the most back end so that it does not hit the top of the wing when inserted into the aileron recess. Be careful. Space is limited.
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Old 04-17-2016, 01:42 PM
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aehaas
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Landing gear, main:
You may need to first turn the cylinder around 180 degrees in order for the side nipple to be pointed towards the ground in the installed position. It hits the inside of the wheel well and kinks if it is pointed in the direction of the upper surface of the wing. Loosen the two cylinder screws, turn the cylinder around and screw in:
This is bad:



This is correct:



Temporarily place the main gear into the recess of the wing. There are hole marks already there but they may be off a little so first line up the gear to fit the opening with some space on all sides. Mark the hole locations with the gear in the retracted position. Pull the pre installed tubing out and cap the ends so wood chips do not get in. Drill the mounting holes, tap for the screws then reinforce the holes with thin CA glue.


Attach the air lines to the cylinder but not the brakes, just have plenty of line pulled out for hooking it up later. Now put the gear in and bolt it in place. Make sure all of the lines have some back and forth movement. Test the lines for operation to make sure there are no kinks then give the screws the final tightening, test the lines again. The gear should move with minimal air line pressure. Run the air lines to the dorsal wing air brakes. Test function.
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:28 PM
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aehaas
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To mount the outer gear doors to the main gear the wings need to be mounted to the fuselage. With the model inverted retract the gear door mounting screws from the gear until the outer doors just touch when aligned properly. Make sure there is clearance all the way around. You may need to sand down all sides for a relaxed fit. Make sure the part that touches the wing with the gear down for landing is clear of the fixed door next to it.


Put a drop of paint on the dear door mounting screw heads then put the gear door in place with the gear retracted. The paint will show you the location to drill the holes for mounting. Drill the holes then bevel the outside so the screws are recessed. Gently move gear up and down to make sure there is clearance in all locations.



The gear door needs to be sitting off of the main strut. You cannot just tighten the screws down. Use thick felt or some spacers to hold the door away from the strut. Again, make certain the top of the gear door does not hit the wing when the gear is down for landing. Now you can run the brake line between the strut and the gear door. This way it is mostly hidden.
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Old 04-20-2016, 04:00 PM
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aehaas
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Nose Gear:
Mount the servo inverted under the steering servo tray. Use the rubber cushions on the servo but not the metal inserts. The mounting screws will not go through these. Use washers. Flatten one edge to have a better fit up against the servo, it may otherwise be too tight.

Mount the plastic servo arm then the smallest, thin connecting rod to the strut steering arm and then the servo arm. One end is on the bottom the other end on the top so that the rod is mounted level when completed. Attach air line to the cylinder.

The metal washer shims on the fuselage mounting recess may need to be trimmed to the opening. Use a drum sander on your Dremel. Place the mechanism into the recess then locate the holes, they should match up pretty well to the starter holes already in place. Drill, tap then strengthen the holes with thin CA glue.

Mount the nose gear to the fuselage. Connect air lines to the gear doors. Test the nose gear function and the gear doors.

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Old 04-20-2016, 04:50 PM
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aehaas
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Notes of interest: Most things line up very well during construction. I am happy with the toughness of the covering, I've bumped things around and there is very little evidence of dings. Parts provided seem to be of high quality. I'll be doing the lighting next, the provided LEDs are good sized and very bright.

aehaas
Old 04-24-2016, 01:07 PM
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Lighting:
Test all the LEDs by plugging them into the light controller. Put a 7.4 volt LiPo on the power supply connector. Test the controller as well to make sure all the lights work and all the functions of the controller work.


Nose gear lights. For the nose gear lights you need SHORT screws. Test that they only go into the nose headlights a small distance where you see threads. Bring the leads down the side and use tie straps but make sure they do not hit the rear hatch when the gear goes up and down.
Wing lights. The servo leads wires are already right at the location of the lights. Very carefully cut out the Oratex to expose the connector. Pull it out then shape the hole to fit the lights, red on left wing, green on right wing. Test the lights after connecting and be sure to tie the connectors together with a good string. Use only the Pilot light controller to test any light. Install the upper rudder tail light where the lead is sticking out. This is the single, smallest diameter light.


The largest diameter white lights are for the bottom of the fuselage. You can see the indented Oratex for the cut out locations. Install into the tubes already in place. Use the wooden washers to center the lights into the tubes. All of the lights are now installed.

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Old 04-24-2016, 01:12 PM
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aehaas
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Wing Tips:
You may need to widen the holes in the wing tips to allow the allen screw to go through smoothly. Tape the wing tip to the wing then drill into the wing just enough to locate the holes already there but covered with Oratex. Remove the wing tip and cut the holes fully to allow for the screws to pass through into the blind nut inside. It is down the hole a little ways. If you cannot easily screw in the bolt then you may need to tap the nut removing the glue or whatever clogged it during construction. If you loosen the blind nut too much then push it further in to get rid of it. Epoxy into the hole to make it solid. When dry drill and tap the entire hole. Strengthen with thin CA. Now you can install the winglets.

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Old 05-03-2016, 03:57 PM
  #23  
aehaas
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Make 2 pair of air banks using the supplied wood. The tabs on the rear should be glued lightly to allow for removal in case the cans need to be replaced by backing them out to the rear of the installation.

Install fuel cells onto their cradles and secure with Velcro. Install the air banks just behind the forward battery compartment. Make sure they are against the sides so that they do not interfere with the fuel cell cap.

Run your air lines. Some may use a dual supply while others may choose a single larger supply. The pressure guage(s) and filler port(s) are in the foreward canopy compartment area, the lines going to the rear go to the various controllers.

Run air lines from the nose gear and nose gear doors at this time. These run back to the controllers in the main compartment midship.

Install the battery platforms between the air cans and the nose gear former. Install Velcro straps to hold the batteries.

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Old 05-11-2016, 03:05 PM
  #24  
aehaas
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You can also use the cabin door area for electronics. I added a BVM air filler, the switch for the AR12120 Spectrum receiver and the air fill pressure gauge to this area. The fuel fill lines are going to come out of the most rear hatch to fill the fuel cells,

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Old 05-15-2016, 09:56 AM
  #25  
aehaas
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Install your electronics. You may want to use optional items as the Jetronics proportional brake system and the iGyro SRS gyro. Also shown are ONE Clik multi servo line connectors and multi airline connectors as sold by Dreamworksrc.

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