Bob_B

My Feedback: (11)

Dave Wilshere

kekelala

Merry Christmas, guys

Does anyone have any comment on the factory's recommended CG? Is it too nose-heavy?

Happy holidays!

Regards, kekelala

Dave Wilshere

175mm is a little nose heavy if you do it tank empty. The balance moves with fuel. If you want to balance it tank near empty and hopper full I would go 180-185mm
Are you using a gyro? I have played with mine and I got to the point it was too tail heavy in the last minute of flight. I have not measured it since as balance is pilot dependant.

Dave

kekelala

Thanks, Dave.

That is informative. I don't think I will be using a gyro and I will start with 180mm. I'm still in the midst of building... waiting for parts here and there...

Just fried one of the main retracts... JP is sending me a replacement actuator.

Kind regards,
kekelala

kevin

My Feedback: (2)

Decided to design a removable front battery tray (its not completely done yet). Not much room on the fuse tray for batts but I also dont like the idea of having to take the nosecone off to get to the batts...so we will see if it stays depending on final CG...

kekelala

kevin

My Feedback: (2)

Nice. Are you holding your nosecone on with the stock screws?

kekelala

one of the 3 tapping screws for the nose cone

ltc

My Feedback: (3)

What type lights did you install on the mains? They look good in that picture.

jcterrettaz

My Feedback: (1)

Kekelala I like the taping screw
I made my tray almost the same . With the battery so far ahead : you are not to nose heavy?

kevin

My Feedback: (2)

Do those screws go into the carbon rods of the nosecone?

Dave Wilshere

When I first built mine I left the batteries in the nose cone and decided once the balance was sorted I'd sort how I was going to charge it. I continue to take the cone off with the std two M3 cap heads and a wiha 2.5mm ball driver extended with a section of exhaust silicon! It takes 20 seconds to take the nose off.

I have no cradle and I'm just about right with two small Rx batteries and a 2700 2s ECU pack.

Dave

jcterrettaz

My Feedback: (1)

Not fly mine yet still winter here.. but with the long ball driver its true the nose removal is not that difficult ...
I try to keep everything simple

kekelala

Yes, Kevin. They all go thru the rods to hold the nose in place.

kekelala

Hi Itc, they are Unilights "Jet-medium Set" https://www.unilight.at/shop/en/sets...chtungsset.php

kekelala

Hi jcterrettaz, it's perfect @ 175mm as per factory's standard. But Dave mentioned 180-185mm and I am going to maiden at 180mm. I think my nose is light because each GreatCells Li-Ion weighs only 107g @ 3000mah, and Turnigy LiFe for turbine is only 1500mah. I can still shift the batteries aft to "lighten" the nose.

ltc

My Feedback: (3)

kekelala

Don't mention. The wingtips are too slim for the lights unless I mount them on the bottom of the wings. But I think it is nothing wrong for a sport jet to have the navigational lights on the fuselage itself.

Meanwhile we are trying to get a "Dangerous Goods" account approval from DHL to ship worldwide, you may PM your address to get the batteries delivered to you from Singapore.

ltc

My Feedback: (3)

kekelala

The weight of full tank of diesel premixed with DTE-Lite oil.


Removable depron foam (held by a screw from the outside fuselage) used as a cover to "guide" the air into the turbine suction at the rear. No complicated ducting works here and lightweight.


The depron foam also serves as a cover to hide the wiring and tubing mess from the outside.


White paint jobs on the cabin interior. Black paint over all control surface horns too.


Concealed the factory's white epoxy.


Slightly tinted canopy with a gradient of black/dark blue mix.


Thinking of putting a Batman inside at the end of the build but I want to keep the plane as light as possible at the mean time, prior to maiden.


Drilled tiny holes for navigational light wires to go thru.


Unilight's navigational light.


Here's the light installed.


Heat shield - thin copper adhesive tapes along with a 1.5mm foam tape beneath them, sandwiching the servo wires of the tail of the inner fuselage.


Trying out and see how the equipment tray would look like in the middle of the cabin.


Epoxied 2 carbon pins to the panel as secured with some balsa woods.


Here's how it look like from the top.


Holes for the pin insertion were marked and hand tapped.


Epoxied a small, thick plywood for the tray to sit and tray to be secured by a tapping screw.


CA-coated and finally painted white.


Equipment installed.


There it goes. Removable for maintenance with a screw.


Nose gear and its door held by hinges.


Door closed. Tension is from a spring hidden inside.


Made an aluminum frame on the main legs for landing lights.


Landing lights installed. Removable. Serviceable.


When the legs are closed, the light is still functional while flying. Downside is that it would cause some aerodynamic drags here.

kekelala

Hi Itc, as shown in the above pictures. Yes, they are near the inlets of the air intakes.

kevin

My Feedback: (2)

I made intake diverters a while back also. Mine are made from sheet styrene...

kekelala

kevin

My Feedback: (2)

"Hi Kevin. I admire your work which is clean and neat. I almost gotten the Swiss scheme but I thought no, I’ve already got a Red/White scheme plane".....

Thanks. I had to custom order the swiss scheme because it looked so good on my spark, and i didnt really like the other schemes too much. Glad I did. It looks better in person and was only 100 bucks extra.

The battery tray is done just needs a bit of velcro for the batts...