Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > RC Jets
Rebel Hot by Comp Arf >

Rebel Hot by Comp Arf

Notices
RC Jets Discuss RC jets in this forum plus rc turbines and ducted fan power systems

Rebel Hot by Comp Arf

Old 12-16-2021, 06:38 AM
  #951  
My Feedback: (12)
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Cumberland, MD
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by BarracudaHockey
Might be a PITA to pull one but plugging them in directly would eliminate the extension as the issue
Basically I have done that already by taking one of my extra HV737 servos and plugging it in directly and it doesn't jitter. My plan once I get the wire is to make up an extension with the same length as the ones I'm using now and seeing if the servo jitters plugged into it. If it doesn't then I'll know it is the extensions I have in there now and I'll tear the tail apart to get those installed. If they still jitter on the new wire I'm just going to replace the servos, at least in the tail. I have ordered 3 Savox SV1260MG high voltage servos just in case. lol

I may have some servos for sale later!
Old 12-16-2021, 06:44 AM
  #952  
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: northridge, CA
Posts: 771
Received 115 Likes on 93 Posts
Default

I think it is more likely he has a loose fitting servo connector than wire gauge. Building a new extension may fix that.
I'm going to try some mil-spec TEFZEL 22 gauge aircraft wire for servo extensions. It is rated for a continuous load of 6.36A. I monitor the current my Rebel Hot uses and the total load never exceeds 9 amps. So, 22 gauge is more than enough for this airplane. No single servo is continuously drawing more that 6 amp, actually continuous draw is less than 1 amp. Wire lengths are a max of 1.5 meter, so voltage drop isn't a concern.
Old 12-16-2021, 07:05 AM
  #953  
My Feedback: (12)
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Cumberland, MD
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jvaliensi
I think it is more likely he has a loose fitting servo connector than wire gauge. Building a new extension may fix that.
I'm going to try some mil-spec TEFZEL 22 gauge aircraft wire for servo extensions. It is rated for a continuous load of 6.36A. I monitor the current my Rebel Hot uses and the total load never exceeds 9 amps. So, 22 gauge is more than enough for this airplane. No single servo is continuously drawing more that 6 amp, actually continuous draw is less than 1 amp. Wire lengths are a max of 1.5 meter, so voltage drop isn't a concern.
I don't discount the idea that could be the case, but it's all three of the tail servos that are jittering, just not one. I have just started making my own extensions and I'm very picky about doing things and practiced on a lot of pins making crimps before making extension to put into the jet. I'm fairly certain they are good, but another test I will do is once I have the tail apart again I'll use those extensions and plug other servos I have into them and see how they react. I won't be able to do much of this until this weekend but will let everyone know what I find.
Old 12-16-2021, 09:02 AM
  #954  
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: northridge, CA
Posts: 771
Received 115 Likes on 93 Posts
Default

BTW- I'm using MKS 747 throughout my yellow Rebel Hot and PowerBox wire (not Maxi) and do not have any issues.
I did have a weird issue with Promodeler servos in another Jet. On those I used a common negative and positive lead at the wing connector. If I powered up the aileron servos and didn't connect the flap servos, then the flap servo would gitter like mad. I guess the white lead was acting like an antenna and sending a false signal to the servo.
My solution is to not use common connections and those servos anymore (but they do work perfectly).
Old 12-18-2021, 06:31 AM
  #955  
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 13,125
Received 739 Likes on 533 Posts
Default

Paul Baker finished his setting up today, movements and Powerbox iGyro 3Xtra dialled in, the perfect winter jet. Using my nose leg packer trick takeoff distance is reduced even with P-60 power





Old 12-18-2021, 09:33 AM
  #956  
My Feedback: (21)
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: , PA
Posts: 209
Received 15 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

Dave,

I did a search on this thread and did not see any details concerning your “ nose leg packer” trick. Can you share some detail on this improvement for grass OPPS. When I build take 2 I would be interested since I fly from both grass and blacktop.

Thanks,
Robert
Old 12-18-2021, 09:49 AM
  #957  
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Guayaquil, ECUADOR
Posts: 29
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by rc_heli_flier
I'm using a Spektrum ix20 transmitter with an AR9030T rx. I'm using two 2,000mah lipo packs running through an AR Smooth Flite 16 gyro system.
Hello, I ran in to the same issue with SF-16 when Gyro is active. It is not servos, but the SF-16. To solve this, I added a 4mm Electronic Double-sided tape on bottom, and Loop Velcro on top of the SF-16, Problem solved. It flies like a dream.
Good luck.

Last edited by jcpl; 12-18-2021 at 10:27 AM.
Old 12-18-2021, 10:08 AM
  #958  
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 13,125
Received 739 Likes on 533 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by LimitDwn
Dave,

I did a search on this thread and did not see any details concerning your “ nose leg packer” trick. Can you share some detail on this improvement for grass OPPS. When I build take 2 I would be interested since I fly from both grass and blacktop.

Thanks,
Robert
Robert. Not sure I listed it. I noticed way back when the first pictures of the Hot with JP gear were posted that it appear to sit slightly nose down. Since I know this increases the take off run I made up 1/4” ply packers when I built mine to go between the rails and nose retract rails. Right from the off my Hot took off nicely from grass and Asphalt. A friend built one and I forgot to mention the packer, but noticed his rotated with a sudden pitch change. I suggested he add them. He went 8mm (5/16”) since he had that plywood available. Rotation is now smooth, so I now make a point of telling all my customers to do it.

Dave
Old 12-18-2021, 10:32 AM
  #959  
My Feedback: (21)
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: , PA
Posts: 209
Received 15 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

Thanks for the info. As for the sudden pitch change mine did that during the first flights, I reduced this by increasing speed at take off when on blacktop, but could never get a smooth rotation on grass due field length and needed to force it up to clear trees. Will put it in the next build.


Thanks,
Robert
Old 12-18-2021, 10:40 AM
  #960  
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
 
Bob_B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Bluegrass State of Mind
Posts: 4,699
Received 85 Likes on 74 Posts
Default

Odd, Mine rotated smoothly for TO.

Last edited by Bob_B; 12-18-2021 at 10:43 AM.
Old 12-18-2021, 11:37 AM
  #961  
My Feedback: (11)
 
BarracudaHockey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 27,126
Received 369 Likes on 297 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Bob_B
Odd, Mine rotated smoothly for TO.
You have a 1000 foot paved runway that's smoother than my kitchen counter too
LOL just sayin
Old 12-18-2021, 12:11 PM
  #962  
ltc
My Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Mendon, MA
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 18 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
Robert. Not sure I listed it. I noticed way back when the first pictures of the Hot with JP gear were posted that it appear to sit slightly nose down. Since I know this increases the take off run I made up 1/4” ply packers when I built mine to go between the rails and nose retract rails. Right from the off my Hot took off nicely from grass and Asphalt. A friend built one and I forgot to mention the packer, but noticed his rotated with a sudden pitch change. I suggested he add them. He went 8mm (5/16”) since he had that plywood available. Rotation is now smooth, so I now make a point of telling all my customers to do it.

Dave
Dave
Are there any negative effects of this mod? Like an increased tendency to “Porpoise” on landings to to higher AoA?
Old 12-18-2021, 12:30 PM
  #963  
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 13,125
Received 739 Likes on 533 Posts
Default

Bob’s is light. Mine is something like 6.6kg dry with the P-60. If you have a high ground speed and hold in a little up during the run it should be a smooth rotation. I’ll try and get some video of mine…you will be surprised at how low my ground speed is.
No down side. With a small, relatively highly loaded model like the Hot, plus the main wheel axle to balance point distance keeps a load on the nose wheel even with the tank empty.

I need to check some Electron equipped versions to note how they sit. Maybe I’ll get the factory to include some packers…
Old 12-18-2021, 01:11 PM
  #964  
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 13,125
Received 739 Likes on 533 Posts
Default

Here is mine on the test flight take off roll. You can see it’s at least level.


Old 12-18-2021, 02:02 PM
  #965  
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: northridge, CA
Posts: 771
Received 115 Likes on 93 Posts
Default

My Electron equipped Hot nose sits higher than the JP gear version. The Electron front leg is longer than stock and I had to trim the opening in the fuselage about 10mm to get the wheel in.
Old 12-18-2021, 02:16 PM
  #966  
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 13,125
Received 739 Likes on 533 Posts
Default

Should be perfect then
Old 12-18-2021, 02:36 PM
  #967  
ltc
My Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Mendon, MA
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 18 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
Bob’s is light. Mine is something like 6.6kg dry with the P-60. If you have a high ground speed and hold in a little up during the run it should be a smooth rotation. I’ll try and get some video of mine…you will be surprised at how low my ground speed is.
No down side. With a small, relatively highly loaded model like the Hot, plus the main wheel axle to balance point distance keeps a load on the nose wheel even with the tank empty.

I need to check some Electron equipped versions to note how they sit. Maybe I’ll get the factory to include some packers…
Dave,
did you ever post a picture of your mod? I don’t recall coming across this before … I’d be curious to see it
Old 12-19-2021, 08:31 AM
  #968  
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 13,125
Received 739 Likes on 533 Posts
Default

I don’t think so. It’s pretty straightforward

Like this…



Old 12-19-2021, 09:36 AM
  #969  
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 529
Received 61 Likes on 51 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
I don’t think so. It’s pretty straightforward

Like this…


Dave, which paint do you use for the inside of the fuse? I like the textured look and the protection for the wood parts.
Thanks,
Tone
Old 12-19-2021, 10:23 AM
  #970  
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 13,125
Received 739 Likes on 533 Posts
Default

My std finish. All the wood is coated in thinned ZAP 40 finishing resin. Light sand. I use Rust-oleum Aged Iron (colour) textured spray paint. If you paint over glass/wood neat you need too much paint, so I lightly spray car grey primer from a rattle can to cover the light surface colour and then before the primer dries I spray light coats of the Rust-oleum textured paint. Total weight for painting nose to the tailpipe mounting former on this model 26g.
Old 12-19-2021, 10:25 AM
  #971  
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 13,125
Received 739 Likes on 533 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
So paint is dry, it’s added 26g ( less than an ounce) satin black in the tailpipe, grey in the turbine area and texture the front. Difficult to photo but you can see how thin the coat is. To the eye the coverage is pretty good







post when it was built…pre mud!
Old 12-19-2021, 06:49 PM
  #972  
ltc
My Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Mendon, MA
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 18 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
I don’t think so. It’s pretty straightforward

Like this…


Thank you Dave,
What type of nuts did you use? Are they MPJet mounting nuts or standard T type nuts?
I can’t quite tell from the 2nd picture.
Old 12-19-2021, 09:53 PM
  #973  
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 13,125
Received 739 Likes on 533 Posts
Default

Originally I used the supplied self tapper, but I drilled the holes in the packers too large and eventually the screws pulled loose. The Hex T nuts were Graupner parts I had in my workshop. I used those because they are a lot smaller in diameter than the traditional T spiked nut. I think I know who made them for Graupner, but you have to buy a minimum 1000pcs and I don’t see that kind of requirement.
Old 12-20-2021, 09:13 AM
  #974  
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
 
Bob_B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Bluegrass State of Mind
Posts: 4,699
Received 85 Likes on 74 Posts
Default

Dave, I've bought those nice Machined T-Nut from Vario in the past.

https://www.vario-helicopter.biz/us1...-3::31557.html

Last edited by Bob_B; 12-20-2021 at 09:17 AM.
Old 12-20-2021, 10:56 AM
  #975  
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 13,125
Received 739 Likes on 533 Posts
Default

Similar, mine are hex shaped. They are made in Germany

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.