rc_heli_flier

My Feedback: (12)

Basically I have done that already by taking one of my extra HV737 servos and plugging it in directly and it doesn't jitter. My plan once I get the wire is to make up an extension with the same length as the ones I'm using now and seeing if the servo jitters plugged into it. If it doesn't then I'll know it is the extensions I have in there now and I'll tear the tail apart to get those installed. If they still jitter on the new wire I'm just going to replace the servos, at least in the tail. I have ordered 3 Savox SV1260MG high voltage servos just in case. lol

I may have some servos for sale later!

jvaliensi

My Feedback: (1)

I think it is more likely he has a loose fitting servo connector than wire gauge. Building a new extension may fix that.
I'm going to try some mil-spec TEFZEL 22 gauge aircraft wire for servo extensions. It is rated for a continuous load of 6.36A. I monitor the current my Rebel Hot uses and the total load never exceeds 9 amps. So, 22 gauge is more than enough for this airplane. No single servo is continuously drawing more that 6 amp, actually continuous draw is less than 1 amp. Wire lengths are a max of 1.5 meter, so voltage drop isn't a concern.

rc_heli_flier

My Feedback: (12)

I don't discount the idea that could be the case, but it's all three of the tail servos that are jittering, just not one. I have just started making my own extensions and I'm very picky about doing things and practiced on a lot of pins making crimps before making extension to put into the jet. I'm fairly certain they are good, but another test I will do is once I have the tail apart again I'll use those extensions and plug other servos I have into them and see how they react. I won't be able to do much of this until this weekend but will let everyone know what I find.

jvaliensi

My Feedback: (1)

BTW- I'm using MKS 747 throughout my yellow Rebel Hot and PowerBox wire (not Maxi) and do not have any issues.
I did have a weird issue with Promodeler servos in another Jet. On those I used a common negative and positive lead at the wing connector. If I powered up the aileron servos and didn't connect the flap servos, then the flap servo would gitter like mad. I guess the white lead was acting like an antenna and sending a false signal to the servo.
My solution is to not use common connections and those servos anymore (but they do work perfectly).

Dave Wilshere

Paul Baker finished his setting up today, movements and Powerbox iGyro 3Xtra dialled in, the perfect winter jet. Using my nose leg packer trick takeoff distance is reduced even with P-60 power

LimitDwn

My Feedback: (21)

Dave,

I did a search on this thread and did not see any details concerning your “ nose leg packer” trick. Can you share some detail on this improvement for grass OPPS. When I build take 2 I would be interested since I fly from both grass and blacktop.

Thanks,
Robert

jcpl

Hello, I ran in to the same issue with SF-16 when Gyro is active. It is not servos, but the SF-16. To solve this, I added a 4mm Electronic Double-sided tape on bottom, and Loop Velcro on top of the SF-16, Problem solved. It flies like a dream.
Good luck.

Dave Wilshere

Robert. Not sure I listed it. I noticed way back when the first pictures of the Hot with JP gear were posted that it appear to sit slightly nose down. Since I know this increases the take off run I made up 1/4” ply packers when I built mine to go between the rails and nose retract rails. Right from the off my Hot took off nicely from grass and Asphalt. A friend built one and I forgot to mention the packer, but noticed his rotated with a sudden pitch change. I suggested he add them. He went 8mm (5/16”) since he had that plywood available. Rotation is now smooth, so I now make a point of telling all my customers to do it.

Dave

LimitDwn

My Feedback: (21)

Thanks for the info. As for the sudden pitch change mine did that during the first flights, I reduced this by increasing speed at take off when on blacktop, but could never get a smooth rotation on grass due field length and needed to force it up to clear trees. Will put it in the next build.


Thanks,
Robert

Bob_B

My Feedback: (11)

Odd, Mine rotated smoothly for TO.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

You have a 1000 foot paved runway that's smoother than my kitchen counter too
LOL just sayin

ltc

My Feedback: (3)

Dave
Are there any negative effects of this mod? Like an increased tendency to “Porpoise” on landings to to higher AoA?

Dave Wilshere

Bob’s is light. Mine is something like 6.6kg dry with the P-60. If you have a high ground speed and hold in a little up during the run it should be a smooth rotation. I’ll try and get some video of mine…you will be surprised at how low my ground speed is.
No down side. With a small, relatively highly loaded model like the Hot, plus the main wheel axle to balance point distance keeps a load on the nose wheel even with the tank empty.

I need to check some Electron equipped versions to note how they sit. Maybe I’ll get the factory to include some packers…

Dave Wilshere

Here is mine on the test flight take off roll. You can see it’s at least level.

jvaliensi

My Feedback: (1)

My Electron equipped Hot nose sits higher than the JP gear version. The Electron front leg is longer than stock and I had to trim the opening in the fuselage about 10mm to get the wheel in.

Dave Wilshere

Should be perfect then

ltc

My Feedback: (3)

Dave,
did you ever post a picture of your mod? I don’t recall coming across this before … I’d be curious to see it

Dave Wilshere

I don’t think so. It’s pretty straightforward

Like this…

Agrav8ed

Dave, which paint do you use for the inside of the fuse? I like the textured look and the protection for the wood parts.
Thanks,
Tone

Dave Wilshere

My std finish. All the wood is coated in thinned ZAP 40 finishing resin. Light sand. I use Rust-oleum Aged Iron (colour) textured spray paint. If you paint over glass/wood neat you need too much paint, so I lightly spray car grey primer from a rattle can to cover the light surface colour and then before the primer dries I spray light coats of the Rust-oleum textured paint. Total weight for painting nose to the tailpipe mounting former on this model 26g.

Dave Wilshere

post when it was built…pre mud!

ltc

My Feedback: (3)

Thank you Dave,
What type of nuts did you use? Are they MPJet mounting nuts or standard T type nuts?
I can’t quite tell from the 2nd picture.

Dave Wilshere

Originally I used the supplied self tapper, but I drilled the holes in the packers too large and eventually the screws pulled loose. The Hex T nuts were Graupner parts I had in my workshop. I used those because they are a lot smaller in diameter than the traditional T spiked nut. I think I know who made them for Graupner, but you have to buy a minimum 1000pcs and I don’t see that kind of requirement.

Bob_B

My Feedback: (11)

Dave, I've bought those nice Machined T-Nut from Vario in the past.

https://www.vario-helicopter.biz/us1...-3::31557.html

Dave Wilshere

Similar, mine are hex shaped. They are made in Germany