Rebel Hot by Comp Arf
12-20-2021, 11:13 AM
#976
My Feedback: (1)
I use nuts and washers with a through bolt attachment of the gear.
Tee-nuts are another acceptable solution for plywood. Smaller nuts will have too high of a bearing load on the plywood and cause the wood to crush (making it weaker). You don't want your fasteners breaking the top layers of the plywood.
Tee-nuts are another acceptable solution for plywood. Smaller nuts will have too high of a bearing load on the plywood and cause the wood to crush (making it weaker). You don't want your fasteners breaking the top layers of the plywood.
12-20-2021, 02:26 PM
#977
My std finish. All the wood is coated in thinned ZAP 40 finishing resin. Light sand. I use Rust-oleum Aged Iron (colour) textured spray paint. If you paint over glass/wood neat you need too much paint, so I lightly spray car grey primer from a rattle can to cover the light surface colour and then before the primer dries I spray light coats of the Rust-oleum textured paint. Total weight for painting nose to the tailpipe mounting former on this model 26g.
Tone
Last edited by Agrav8ed; 12-20-2021 at 07:34 PM.
12-20-2021, 03:43 PM
#978
Zap finishing resin is the bare minimum, I’m still amazed by people who just assemble with the wood as it comes. It’s a sponge to oil and fuel and looks a mess.
The following users liked this post:
Viper1GJ (12-20-2021)
12-20-2021, 07:17 PM
#979
Canopy rod disappearing act
I'm finally sitting down to build mine. But I can't find the darned canopy latch rod anywhere in the box (I know I saw it the first time I opened it a month ago and yes I turned the box upside down/inside out and made a mess of styrofoam bits all over my place and still nothing).
Any idea on the exact diameter of it? Maybe 2mm or so? And wasn't there some sort of collet or knurled tip on the nose end?
Any idea on the exact diameter of it? Maybe 2mm or so? And wasn't there some sort of collet or knurled tip on the nose end?
12-20-2021, 10:06 PM
#980
2mm welding rod with a 2mm id ball link ball on the end (Solder or CA) to give you something to pull.
it comes installed on the Hot, since the canopy is on the fuselage
it comes installed on the Hot, since the canopy is on the fuselage
12-20-2021, 10:31 PM
#981
Noted, thanks. Could've sworn i put it back on when i last stored it but alas it's nowhere to be found
12-21-2021, 05:51 AM
#983
I'm finally sitting down to build mine. But I can't find the darned canopy latch rod anywhere in the box (I know I saw it the first time I opened it a month ago and yes I turned the box upside down/inside out and made a mess of styrofoam bits all over my place and still nothing).
Any idea on the exact diameter of it? Maybe 2mm or so? And wasn't there some sort of collet or knurled tip on the nose end?
Any idea on the exact diameter of it? Maybe 2mm or so? And wasn't there some sort of collet or knurled tip on the nose end?
12-21-2021, 05:56 AM
#984
12-26-2021, 10:38 AM
#986
I must have a picture of everything BUT that for my review. If I get a chance to pull the fuse out of the bag I'll get a pic of that unless someone beats me to it.
Speaking of bags, the Revoc wing and fuse set is the best money besides fuel I've spent on this thing.
Speaking of bags, the Revoc wing and fuse set is the best money besides fuel I've spent on this thing.
The following 2 users liked this post by BarracudaHockey:
Bob_B (12-26-2021),
retiringforgood (12-26-2021)
12-26-2021, 12:08 PM
#987
Also for those running promodeler servos what are people putting in the stabs? My DS150s fall through the pocket and I cant get my DS160s to fit even after nearly a solid hour of VERY carefully shaving away the pocket 1mm at a time and retesting the fit. It's been an exercise in tediousness.
12-26-2021, 12:50 PM
#989
I was considering doing something like that but figured trying to squeeze the 160 might be more secure. But I think I've already wasted enough time widening the hole that I'll just do the filler instead. I'm assuming a 1\8 plywood piece glued behind the pocket will suffice.
12-26-2021, 04:24 PM
#990
12-26-2021, 04:30 PM
#991
Here are some shots of how I did mine. I'm using jp gear with the longer nose strut so I didn't need to add any spacers to have the benefit of better take roll. I did have to cut the opening in the fuse a little longer to get the nose wheel to fit when cycling the gear.
12-28-2021, 12:33 PM
#993
Is there any trick to removing the fuel stopper on the factory OEM tank? Is it threaded or something? I took out the middle allen screw as far as I could and the tried twisting and pulling the stopper but it wouldn't budge and don't want to go too crazy with it lest I break it.
Just wanted to safety wire, add a felt clunk, and change the tubing to Viton
Just wanted to safety wire, add a felt clunk, and change the tubing to Viton
12-28-2021, 01:19 PM
#995
Leave it loose 24 hours and it will relax and expand. The screw only needs to be loose around 1/8” under the screw head. It should just pull forward, its a std Dubro type bung set up.
12-28-2021, 01:58 PM
#996
zip tied the hoses.
Is it really compatible with a dubro? Seems a tad bigger. The LHS seems to have them in stock at least.
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retiringforgood (12-28-2021)
12-30-2021, 01:21 PM
#998
So I'm almost out of hardware bags, but have these 2 left over. What's the brass bushing thing for? I see no mention of this in the manual. I have an ARF+ is it safe to assume these are just extras they throw in the box anyways? I'm assuming the fuselage bag is for the fuel tank mount.
