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Rebel Hot by Comp Arf

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Rebel Hot by Comp Arf

Old 12-20-2021, 11:13 AM
  #976  
jvaliensi
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I use nuts and washers with a through bolt attachment of the gear.
Tee-nuts are another acceptable solution for plywood. Smaller nuts will have too high of a bearing load on the plywood and cause the wood to crush (making it weaker). You don't want your fasteners breaking the top layers of the plywood.
Old 12-20-2021, 02:26 PM
  #977  
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Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
My std finish. All the wood is coated in thinned ZAP 40 finishing resin. Light sand. I use Rust-oleum Aged Iron (colour) textured spray paint. If you paint over glass/wood neat you need too much paint, so I lightly spray car grey primer from a rattle can to cover the light surface colour and then before the primer dries I spray light coats of the Rust-oleum textured paint. Total weight for painting nose to the tailpipe mounting former on this model 26g.
Thanks for the info. Think I may give it a shot. I have used the Zap finishing resin in the past to coat wood parts but I like the painted appearance much better.
Tone

Last edited by Agrav8ed; 12-20-2021 at 07:34 PM.
Old 12-20-2021, 03:43 PM
  #978  
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Zap finishing resin is the bare minimum, I’m still amazed by people who just assemble with the wood as it comes. It’s a sponge to oil and fuel and looks a mess.
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Old 12-20-2021, 07:17 PM
  #979  
retiringforgood
 
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Default Canopy rod disappearing act

I'm finally sitting down to build mine. But I can't find the darned canopy latch rod anywhere in the box (I know I saw it the first time I opened it a month ago and yes I turned the box upside down/inside out and made a mess of styrofoam bits all over my place and still nothing).

Any idea on the exact diameter of it? Maybe 2mm or so? And wasn't there some sort of collet or knurled tip on the nose end?
Old 12-20-2021, 10:06 PM
  #980  
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2mm welding rod with a 2mm id ball link ball on the end (Solder or CA) to give you something to pull.
it comes installed on the Hot, since the canopy is on the fuselage

Old 12-20-2021, 10:31 PM
  #981  
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Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
2mm welding rod with a 2mm id ball link ball on the end (Solder or CA) to give you something to pull.
it comes installed on the Hot, since the canopy is on the fuselage
Noted, thanks. Could've sworn i put it back on when i last stored it but alas it's nowhere to be found
Old 12-21-2021, 05:14 AM
  #982  
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My pin was in the bag with the plywood parts for the tank mount. I thought I lost mine too
Old 12-21-2021, 05:51 AM
  #983  
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Originally Posted by retiringforgood
I'm finally sitting down to build mine. But I can't find the darned canopy latch rod anywhere in the box (I know I saw it the first time I opened it a month ago and yes I turned the box upside down/inside out and made a mess of styrofoam bits all over my place and still nothing).

Any idea on the exact diameter of it? Maybe 2mm or so? And wasn't there some sort of collet or knurled tip on the nose end?
Rebel Hot by Comp Arf

Old 12-21-2021, 05:56 AM
  #984  
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Originally Posted by jvaliensi
My pin was in the bag with the plywood parts for the tank mount. I thought I lost mine too
Nope not there. I did take it out at some point


Originally Posted by BarracudaHockey
Thanks. Tried the search function at first but nothing showed up
Old 12-26-2021, 10:11 AM
  #985  
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Any kind soul that could provide pictures of how the nose gear servo linkage should look? Searched the thread didn't see a relevant post.
Old 12-26-2021, 10:38 AM
  #986  
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I must have a picture of everything BUT that for my review. If I get a chance to pull the fuse out of the bag I'll get a pic of that unless someone beats me to it.

Speaking of bags, the Revoc wing and fuse set is the best money besides fuel I've spent on this thing.
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Old 12-26-2021, 12:08 PM
  #987  
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Also for those running promodeler servos what are people putting in the stabs? My DS150s fall through the pocket and I cant get my DS160s to fit even after nearly a solid hour of VERY carefully shaving away the pocket 1mm at a time and retesting the fit. It's been an exercise in tediousness.
Old 12-26-2021, 12:11 PM
  #988  
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The 150s fit with a filler block on one end.
Old 12-26-2021, 12:50 PM
  #989  
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Originally Posted by Bob_B
The 150s fit with a filler block on one end.
I was considering doing something like that but figured trying to squeeze the 160 might be more secure. But I think I've already wasted enough time widening the hole that I'll just do the filler instead. I'm assuming a 1\8 plywood piece glued behind the pocket will suffice.
Old 12-26-2021, 04:24 PM
  #990  
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Originally Posted by retiringforgood
Any kind soul that could provide pictures of how the nose gear servo linkage should look? Searched the thread didn't see a relevant post.
Here are some shots of how I did mine. I'm using jp gear with the longer nose strut so I didn't need to add any spacers to have the benefit of better take roll. I did have to cut the opening in the fuse a little longer to get the nose wheel to fit when cycling the gear.








Old 12-26-2021, 04:30 PM
  #991  
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Originally Posted by Airforce7
Here are some shots of how I did mine. I'm using jp gear with the longer nose strut so I didn't need to add any spacers to have the benefit of better take roll. I did have to cut the opening in the fuse a little longer to get the nose wheel to fit when cycling the gear.







Much obliged. Now I gotta contend with squeezing the DS160 servo in there, looks like im getting myself into even more servo pocket filing
Old 12-27-2021, 01:24 AM
  #992  
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With the std leg it’s normal to have to notch the mounting plate to clear the steering arm ball link. Just in the corner
Old 12-28-2021, 12:33 PM
  #993  
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Is there any trick to removing the fuel stopper on the factory OEM tank? Is it threaded or something? I took out the middle allen screw as far as I could and the tried twisting and pulling the stopper but it wouldn't budge and don't want to go too crazy with it lest I break it.

Just wanted to safety wire, add a felt clunk, and change the tubing to Viton
Old 12-28-2021, 12:42 PM
  #994  
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It's most likely dry, wet it and should come out, this is assuming it is the rubber bung style.
Old 12-28-2021, 01:19 PM
  #995  
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Leave it loose 24 hours and it will relax and expand. The screw only needs to be loose around 1/8” under the screw head. It should just pull forward, its a std Dubro type bung set up.
Old 12-28-2021, 01:58 PM
  #996  
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Originally Posted by Bob_B
It's most likely dry, wet it and should come out, this is assuming it is the rubber bung style.
Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
Leave it loose 24 hours and it will relax and expand. The screw only needs to be loose around 1/8 under the screw head. It should just pull forward, its a std Dubro type bung set up.
Well I managed to coax it out with some pliers. There's some small tears in the rubber. No idea if that was my fault or already there but now I'm hesitant to use it as is.. Its very much dry indeed. I was impressed they're at least using real tygon, but they only
zip tied the hoses.

Is it really compatible with a dubro? Seems a tad bigger. The LHS seems to have them in stock at least.


Old 12-28-2021, 02:16 PM
  #997  
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It was a Dubro bung, you do need to replace it.
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Old 12-30-2021, 01:21 PM
  #998  
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So I'm almost out of hardware bags, but have these 2 left over. What's the brass bushing thing for? I see no mention of this in the manual. I have an ARF+ is it safe to assume these are just extras they throw in the box anyways? I'm assuming the fuselage bag is for the fuel tank mount.



Old 12-30-2021, 01:40 PM
  #999  
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The brass piece is for the nose gear.
Old 12-30-2021, 01:58 PM
  #1000  
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As Bob says spare nose pin and bush. Put it in your Tx case.
Same on the Joker…I’ve never used the spare for that either!

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