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Rebel Hot by Comp Arf

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Rebel Hot by Comp Arf

Old 01-09-2022, 08:49 AM
  #1026  
Dansy
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Originally Posted by retiringforgood
Alright I was going to reply individually to everyone but here's videos in glorious 4k 60FPS to appease the skeptics. For what it's worth I accidentally pressurized the bejesus out of the whole system when I fueled it until the pump stalled because I forgot to unplug the vent. Pump can pressurize to 20psi and I didn't hear any fizzing or see any leaks anywhere so I think it's very safe to say after that accidental stress test that the plumbing is sound, leak-wise at least.

Filling: https://youtu.be/L-nfJcQayek

Emptying: https://youtu.be/pGfCi1xHZKo

On the emptying one I start off slow to what I estimate is a consumption equivalent to full throttle, then gradually increase. At the 30s mark, it's not until what I estimate to be 3x the consumption of the turbine pump at full chooch that you see a tiny amount of fizzing bubbles. At full chooch its easily about 6 to 8x the rate of the turbine's pump and the bubbles appear to be due to cavitation at the tank inlet itself as the hose shows no bubbles. At the end you see that even in this completely unrealistic scenario the inner wick isn't even exposed to air at all, and these UATs are known to work fine with 50% air or more.

I'm planning eventually on actually bench testing it with the engine itself and simulating a long nose dive to see how long it takes for it to flame out with the main tanks clunk exposed. As it stands right now I don't see why it shouldn't work normally.



Let's not be drastic here. I won't. I am capable of learning from my mistakes. Should it work flawlessly, and I don't see why it wouldn't so far, what are you going to learn from that then? Furthermore, at least I'm getting CNC machined parts and industrial grade connectors. Overkill? Perhaps, but I'd say that's far more for my money than paying $50 for a glorified $2 nalgene bottle with a $2 lawnmower filter with some holes poked through it. Those gave me far more flameouts.
Not being drastic…..you can do as you wish….I guess you know better then the designer(lots of beginner do)….fine by me…
Old 01-09-2022, 10:19 AM
  #1027  
jvaliensi
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I've used the same Digitech trap with good success. For what's it worth.
Old 01-10-2022, 02:20 AM
  #1028  
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Starting my HOT build and looking at your photos i saw a lot of you use Rex10/12 receivers.

What do you usually put between receiver and 2 receiver batteries ? Just connecting them in parallel does not particularly appeal to me so looking for good ideas.
Considering alternative PB pioneer or CB210/2xRsat but would like to keep it as simple.
Old 01-10-2022, 03:35 AM
  #1029  
ltc
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Originally Posted by jstras
Starting my HOT build and looking at your photos i saw a lot of you use Rex10/12 receivers.

What do you usually put between receiver and 2 receiver batteries ? Just connecting them in parallel does not particularly appeal to me so looking for good ideas.
Considering alternative PB pioneer or CB210/2xRsat but would like to keep it as simple.
This is a simple no on/off switch option
https://boomarc.com/en/dualbat-2-x-1...lating-circuit

If you want on/off capability, have you looked at the Jeti DSM-10 dual electronic switch?
https://www.jetimodel.com/katalog/ds...itch-mixer.htm
DSM10 EN.pdf

Last edited by ltc; 01-10-2022 at 03:37 AM.
Old 01-10-2022, 03:39 AM
  #1030  
Bob_B
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I am using a Rex12 driving a cortex pro.
For power I have single lipo for the radio plugged into external power connector of the Rx. If you feel you need two batteries you can use a DSM 10. There is not a lot of room inside for devices like a CB or such nor the need IMHO.
Old 01-10-2022, 03:59 AM
  #1031  
Dansy
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Originally Posted by jstras
Starting my HOT build and looking at your photos i saw a lot of you use Rex10/12 receivers.

What do you usually put between receiver and 2 receiver batteries ? Just connecting them in parallel does not particularly appeal to me so looking for good ideas.
Considering alternative PB pioneer or CB210/2xRsat but would like to keep it as simple.
Don’t connect them in parallel, that would be like having one battery….., Jeti has many switches that can be used for this purpose…and that way you protect both batteries…
Old 01-10-2022, 04:49 AM
  #1032  
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Powerbox Sensor switch is the device. V3 version now.
Old 01-10-2022, 10:20 AM
  #1033  
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Yep, DSM10 will be more than sufficient, thank you Bob!
Wasnt even looking at DSM/DPS sorry...
Old 01-12-2022, 05:08 PM
  #1034  
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As a quick update out of an abundance of caution I burned about 3 liters of fun juice further bench testing the fuel system. From full power/idle and then simulating prolonged inverted/knife edge/ dives etc, sloshing the plane around as much as I could muster with the engine screaming inches from my face at full bore, and long story short after a minor modification (added an extra ball valve on the fill line to prevent more syphoning and get 99.9% of all air out after filling) I think it's definitely airworthy.

Also impressed with how unlike my MAP UATs these seem to fizzle out instead of just straight up dying with no warning. When trying to induce a flameout I could sustain full throttle just fine in a level attitude with just barely any fuel touching the bottom of the wick (so about 3/4 of the UAT full of air), then the RPM would slowly drop. Plenty of warning time.

Anywho, just gotta set up the radio stuff and hopefully maiden it next week weather permitting.
Old 01-13-2022, 12:06 AM
  #1035  
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Although it’s good to test a fuel system, don’t convince yourself what you have is better. Unless it’s moving in flight your test shows nothing. Also your reference to the MAP almost certainly was not on the same turbine size and possibly was in flight. My only experience of this was a Joker with 100N turbine that was flown until the tank was completely empty…He forgot to refill the tank and took off, we were amazed the MAP hopper tank was completely empty! Didn’t make sense to anyone who whiteness it, but this shows you the difference in flight with G force active. The turbine also rolled down slowly no sudden stop.
Old 01-13-2022, 05:38 AM
  #1036  
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Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
Although it’s good to test a fuel system, don’t convince yourself what you have is better. Unless it’s moving in flight your test shows nothing. Also your reference to the MAP almost certainly was not on the same turbine size and possibly was in flight. My only experience of this was a Joker with 100N turbine that was flown until the tank was completely empty…He forgot to refill the tank and took off, we were amazed the MAP hopper tank was completely empty! Didn’t make sense to anyone who whiteness it, but this shows you the difference in flight with G force active. The turbine also rolled down slowly no sudden stop.
Fair enough. It must have been a larger map than mine which was a 2oz feeding an x45.
Old 01-13-2022, 07:06 AM
  #1037  
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Yes, 4oz Std.
if it was a while ago the pickups are larger now and replaceable
Old 01-29-2022, 10:48 AM
  #1038  
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Default Pin removal

Did a little mod today to make it easier to pull the canopy hatch pin by hand…





Last edited by Airforce7; 01-29-2022 at 10:50 AM. Reason: Text edit
Old 01-29-2022, 11:44 AM
  #1039  
jvaliensi
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A nose ring for your rebel, how very 21st century of you.
Seriously, the pin is a bugger to pull out, I have to use pliers.
Old 01-29-2022, 12:03 PM
  #1040  
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That would drive my OCD nuts every time I looked at it. I dont have any problems with the pin
Old 01-29-2022, 12:28 PM
  #1041  
Bob_B
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Dont push the pin all the way in, pretty simple.
Old 01-29-2022, 01:54 PM
  #1042  
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Polish the wire with a scouring pad, It slides in and out easily. Use a CSK bit on the nose to provide clearance around the ball
Old 01-30-2022, 09:32 AM
  #1043  
LimitDwn
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Airforce7 I’m not into rings but if this is what it takes to get your pin out so be it, if it is hard to move I think this is a good thing and I will explain. This last summer I lost a Hot due to what I believe was a pin that backed out to allow air under the hatch. Let me expand the flight, I was flying this hot on its second summer of flying and as you get better with an airframe and understand how it performs and what the anticipated results of your control inputs are you know what to expect. So last summer I have gotten very good at doing outside knife edge circles and as we know this puts huge stress on an airframe with negative G’s causing flexing against normal flight conditions. Now for the fight shortly after take off I attempted a knife edge circle and about half way though the airframe started to drift away even though I continued to push down elevator, as it drifted away I bailed due to how fare it was away. Not thinking anything about it other than maybe I did not push enough. This is when I believe the pin moved or dislodged. On the very next pass I attempted a four point roll at about 20 feet, which I have completed many times. At full speed I rolled knife edge first position of the four point roll and held for a few seconds then started to roll to inverted as soon as the hot started to roll inverted and negative “G” are placed on the airframe it went in like a vacuum sucked it to the ground, and need let to say I said goodby to my Hot.

So if the pin is hard to more its a good thing. As for my next Hot the pin goes and a bolt gets added.

Just my two cents on the pin conversation.

Robert
Old 01-30-2022, 10:25 AM
  #1044  
Dave Wilshere
 
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I don’t see that as the reason. Sorry
Old 01-30-2022, 10:44 AM
  #1045  
LimitDwn
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Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
I don’t see that as the reason. Sorry
Yes that’s your thought but you weren’t there to see how fast it went in along with the reaction of other pilots who were watching.

As for another thought on this pin issue during other fights at landing the pin was found out about half of the engagement distance during very easy flying. Not sure how much the pin engages you hatch but on mine at best about 1/4”. This pin movement has not just happened on my Hot, it has happened to anther Hot that flys at are club to where he places a piece of tape across the pin.

Robert
Old 01-30-2022, 11:49 AM
  #1046  
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Ive had the pin slide out so i put a small kink in the rod
Old 01-30-2022, 04:11 PM
  #1047  
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Appreciate all the comments on my mod! I think there's some good input here I may consider doing in the future, but let’s see how the ring works out this year. My rod easily slips right out from the nose if it’s inserted without the canopy on. With the canopy installed, there is pretty good engagement and a fair amount of friction with the rod. The ring is small in diameter and hardly noticeable IMO. I wanted to get it on there so that I don’t constantly need to carry a pair of pliers especially if I need to get the canopy off quickly around the flight line. Here are a few shots of my Hot after four more awesome flights yesterday…













Old 03-21-2022, 07:15 AM
  #1048  
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Dave Wilshere at the Buckminster JMA event over the weekend

Alistair Powers












Old 03-21-2022, 07:18 AM
  #1049  
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And a few more

Alistair Powers















Old 03-21-2022, 08:15 AM
  #1050  
jvaliensi
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My Rebel Hot has a X45 in it. It flies nice but is not fast. My friend put a Jet Munts 70 in his and it is considerably faster than mine. But to him, it is under powered. He is putting a 100 in it now. Yikes!
I put a K70 in mine yellow one. I like the way his flies with the 70.

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