Rebel Hot by Comp Arf
#1127

My Feedback: (1)

I have one of the Xicoy controllers (LGC-12 or -13) in my JP equipped Rebel Hot. It occasionally decides I don't need brakes. I've learned when that happens I need to do a hard restart. I got in the habit of testing the brakes before each flight.
I'm using the Assan AG63 in other air planes with good success. The red box JP controller is bad either.
I'm using the Assan AG63 in other air planes with good success. The red box JP controller is bad either.
#1128

Thanks for the replies, I've decided to go with the LGC-15.
On a side note, the JP gear for the hot can fit a 55mm tire on the front wheel. I bought a JP 55mm tire on aliexpress, to help raise the front a bit. I'll use it together with some 5mm spacers between the retract and mounting frame. It will also give a smidge less rolling resistance when flying from a grass field.
On a side note, the JP gear for the hot can fit a 55mm tire on the front wheel. I bought a JP 55mm tire on aliexpress, to help raise the front a bit. I'll use it together with some 5mm spacers between the retract and mounting frame. It will also give a smidge less rolling resistance when flying from a grass field.
#1130

My Feedback: (1)

Did you check the wheels? I had an airplane with a Xicoy brake controller that kept doing a right hook when I applied the brakes. So, I put an AG63 gyro in it. The problem was not fixed. SO, I looked at the wheels and found the left axle slipped out a tiny amount and that made the brake weak on that side. Yup, I should have checked the easy stuff 1st.
#1132

My Feedback: (21)

Robert
#1133

I have one of the Xicoy controllers (LGC-12 or -13) in my JP equipped Rebel Hot. It occasionally decides I don't need brakes. I've learned when that happens I need to do a hard restart. I got in the habit of testing the brakes before each flight.
I'm using the Assan AG63 in other air planes with good success. The red box JP controller is bad either.
I'm using the Assan AG63 in other air planes with good success. The red box JP controller is bad either.
thanks,
Tone
The following users liked this post:
flaz (09-12-2022)
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chevronflyer (09-12-2022)
#1139
Member

Hello
Im building my rebel hot, and today i found a problem that will like to know how others solved.
In the flaps the pin of the providers Kwik-link are smaller than the holes on the horns so i have a nasty clearance that i want to remove. How others deal with that ones, for the rest i will use ball links but for flaps as holes are done i need something that goes inline with servo arm.
Only solution i imagine is to buy some kwilinks with 2mm pin like this ones https://mpjet.com/shop/gb/metal-clev...hread-al_right
Any other solution? or other 2mm pin kwilink source

Thanks
Im building my rebel hot, and today i found a problem that will like to know how others solved.
In the flaps the pin of the providers Kwik-link are smaller than the holes on the horns so i have a nasty clearance that i want to remove. How others deal with that ones, for the rest i will use ball links but for flaps as holes are done i need something that goes inline with servo arm.
Only solution i imagine is to buy some kwilinks with 2mm pin like this ones https://mpjet.com/shop/gb/metal-clev...hread-al_right
Any other solution? or other 2mm pin kwilink source

Thanks
#1140

My Feedback: (53)

Hello
Im building my rebel hot, and today i found a problem that will like to know how others solved.
In the flaps the pin of the providers Kwik-link are smaller than the holes on the horns so i have a nasty clearance that i want to remove. How others deal with that ones, for the rest i will use ball links but for flaps as holes are done i need something that goes inline with servo arm.
Only solution i imagine is to buy some kwilinks with 2mm pin like this ones https://mpjet.com/shop/gb/metal-clev...hread-al_right
Any other solution? or other 2mm pin kwilink source
Thanks
Im building my rebel hot, and today i found a problem that will like to know how others solved.
In the flaps the pin of the providers Kwik-link are smaller than the holes on the horns so i have a nasty clearance that i want to remove. How others deal with that ones, for the rest i will use ball links but for flaps as holes are done i need something that goes inline with servo arm.
Only solution i imagine is to buy some kwilinks with 2mm pin like this ones https://mpjet.com/shop/gb/metal-clev...hread-al_right
Any other solution? or other 2mm pin kwilink source
Thanks
‘’the other option would be to block the hole with Hysol and red rill the correct size….a little more work but not that hard to do….
#1141
Member

Looks like those mpjet is the easiest option, is not a comfortable position to redrill.... at least for me.
I think i will need to make the hole that is in the "back spar" just a bit bigger as this kwilink seems wider than the stock ones, at least on photos
#1142

My Feedback: (53)

Thanks, im in europe, not problem to buy those, did you remember if use the model i linked? 2mm pin seem enough
Looks like those mpjet is the easiest option, is not a comfortable position to redrill.... at least for me.
I think i will need to make the hole that is in the "back spar" just a bit bigger as this kwilink seems wider than the stock ones, at least on photos
Looks like those mpjet is the easiest option, is not a comfortable position to redrill.... at least for me.
I think i will need to make the hole that is in the "back spar" just a bit bigger as this kwilink seems wider than the stock ones, at least on photos
#1143

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks, im in europe, not problem to buy those, did you remember if use the model i linked? 2mm pin seem enough
Looks like those mpjet is the easiest option, is not a comfortable position to redrill.... at least for me.
I think i will need to make the hole that is in the "back spar" just a bit bigger as this kwilink seems wider than the stock ones, at least on photos
Looks like those mpjet is the easiest option, is not a comfortable position to redrill.... at least for me.
I think i will need to make the hole that is in the "back spar" just a bit bigger as this kwilink seems wider than the stock ones, at least on photos
#1144
Member

How much flap degree are you using?
#1145

This is pretty close, flaps, take off: 23-25 mm, landing: 60-68 mm,(you can go more but this works really well). 3-4mm of down elevator with full flaps. I had 1 hole too big from the factory, I put in a small slice of hollow carbon tube, filled it perfectly.
Last edited by markusvt; 09-18-2022 at 05:58 AM.
#1146
Member

Finally buy those mpjet with 2mm pin, is a tight fit, no clearance. Need to make a bit of space as are more bulky that original ones but no problem.
Thanks, i will use that flap amount for base test
Thanks, i will use that flap amount for base test
The following users liked this post:
paulhat (10-15-2022)