rjpmodel

My Feedback: (2)

Agrav8ed the Jeti REX12 A (assist) has gyro built in. The AR Smart Switch controls and balances the power from 2 batteries and displays mah used and voltage of both batteries. Mah used during current flight and total used since batteries charged.

rjpmodel

My Feedback: (2)

I am using 1/4” up aileron crow and I think i will increase it to 3/8” which I have used in other jets

rjpmodel

My Feedback: (2)

I am using 1.4” for take off flaps and 3.75” for full flaps

Desertlakesflying

My Feedback: (28)

I have my landing flaps as far as they will go, or the thing just keeps flying because it won't slow down.

Dave Wilshere

As always it depends on the turbine idle thrust, there is a huge variation.

terryscustom

Anyone have pics of how you are running wires from the tail to your RX around the thrust tube and turbine area (2M Rebel)?

Dave Wilshere

There are pictures above! But I run them either side ( not all one side) and they pass the tail pipe cone just under the turbine rails. Where I run down the rear fuselage I always run them at 5 & 7 O’clock as liquid fuel would be burning at the bottom or heat rising over the top is more likely to damage wires.

Dave

jvaliensi

My Feedback: (1)

I am picking up a Rebel 2m with the Infinity scheme. I have a P130-rx for it.
What torque should the servo be?

Desertlakesflying

My Feedback: (28)

I'm running mine on 277 oz-in servos with no problems with a K140 G2

Desertlakesflying

My Feedback: (28)

Not enough residual with a K-140 G2 to make a difference. It's just a slippery airframe. Using max travel in the flap sure makes a nice smooth slow landing.

Dave Wilshere

P-130RX test run yesterday

jvaliensi

My Feedback: (1)

Mine came yesterday. It is the original Infinity paint scheme. It is so big! 7ft long fuselage.
I got the ARF kit with the gear, pipe and tank installed. The landing gear is held in with wood screws. Will these be okay?

F1 Rocket

The screws will be perfectly OK. I prefer them to blind nuts. The screws will pull out of the word rather than having the entire gear plate pulled out of the wing. Much easier repair afterwards.

Desertlakesflying

My Feedback: (28)

I have over 250 flights on the wood screws that came with mine ordered the same way.

jvaliensi

My Feedback: (1)

I bought Promodeler 630oz servos for my Rebel. I'm sure they have way more power than needed. They are brushless so they are efficient.

https://www.promodeler.com/DS630BLHV

I got plastic servo arms, the maker claims they are good for servos up to 630oz.

https://www.promodeler.com/PDRS101

Plastic seems to work the best with the snap on clevis that come it the kit. Most aluminum arms are threaded for a ball link and this doesn't align well with the pre-installed horns on the control surfaces. I've been looking thru many build photos of the Rebel and UltraFlash and it appears this is what many folks do.

Dave Wilshere

As long as they are not brittle and the servo arm screw is properly tightened plastic arms are fine

Dave

Agrav8ed

I have a problem with my Carf Rebel with the tail and control surfaces jumping at certain rpm of the throttle. It happens on the ground and you can definitely feel it in the air. So much so that I stopped flying the jet for a while to try to sort it out.. I am at a funfly in Virginia right now and decided to give it another go. Same issues. The rudder, elevator and ailerons all jump around 5/8 to 3/4 throttle. I have sent the turbine back for balancing twice and have even swapped the turbine for a different one. No luck. It still jumps on the ground and in the air. If I turn the turbine off the issues goes away. Several of the pro pilots at the funfly noticed it in the air and came over to inspect it after I was able to get it back on the ground. They tested the turbine, the control surfaces and the mounting. All passed with flying colors. The verdict was the gyro is jumping from acoustic interference/ harmonic resonance/ high frequency acoustics from the Rebel fuselage as there are no supports in the fuse from the nose gear all the way until where the turbine is mounted. Any idea how the smoothflite 26 would be picking this up? Any ideas on how this issue can be resolved?
Thanks,
Tone

Dave Wilshere

It’s a problem for Smoothflite, but can you find some foam to cover the gyro unit with, like a foam microphone cover material. literally tape some over the unit a sheet of material like we wrapped MHz Rx’s in.

Dave

LA jetguy

Jim…. I got a Rebel classic (green scheme) as well.. I’m powering with X120. Using MKS 599SL for ailerons, elevators and rudder.. 9930 for flaps and 1220 for steering.. I got the ARF plus package as well..

David

jvaliensi

My Feedback: (1)

David - are you going to use a single battery and REX12 for the Rebel?

LA jetguy

Yes …. The X120 runs on 2 cell Lipo…. So one 4000 mah will give me 4 flights …. Powering everything ….

no need to carry extra lead on board … lighter is better

jvaliensi

My Feedback: (1)

I going to use a CB220 because I have an REX3 and REX3-900 (and I'm out of 10A switches and REX12's). But I'll use a single battery for everything. The CB gives me the same data as a MUI-30, so I loose that part too.

Desert Fox 1

Cheers!
Desert Fox 1

LA jetguy

Jim…. That would be a great setup .. just verify your REX3 is a REX3-A40 (20)…. The anodes at the end of the antennas help reception flying at our field (AKA The Jungle)

Agrav8ed

I was not a huge fan of how much flex there is on the upper deck of my Rebel. Because most of the fuse is a hollow tube and there is not a former from the turbine until the supports for the nose gear there is a fair amount of movement on the upper deck. I thought this could be contributing to some of my previous issues so I constructed a former out of 3mm plywood and hysoled it it. Everything is rock solid now. It really made the fuse feel more solid a d added a minimum of weight.. Not sure why the did not place a former there before to support the upper deck but I like mine.
Tone