CARF REBEL 2m
03-01-2023, 05:22 AM
#601
For your first jet, I suggest getting a trainer and get linked up with an experienced jet guy. You can always use the trainer later for a backup or a warming up at the beginning of a new season or training a son or even a grandson! I always suggest, before buying a jet, spending a season as a jet guy's spotter/assistant. It could save you a lot of money and make the transition to jets a lot easier and less costly. Jets are not for everyone. You may find some time with a jet guy could save you a lot of time and money! At the very least, spending time with the jet guys will help you identify a good first jet, sort out the systems involved with your first build and show you the safety related issues you may end up dealing with when starting, operating and landing, etc..
The orange color always shows up well. But no matter what color you get, if the sun is from the wrong direction, you will be flying a shadow. You need to be ready for that and get used to it! However, on a Rebel I would get a custom paint scheme on the wing's bottom (e.g. broad contrasting stripes or maybe a starburst/checkered pattern on the bottom of the wing, etc.) CARF did good job on my starburst with checker. But ultimately, I just fly the shape of the plane most of the time.
As far as speed, the K142 in an Ultraflash (UF) is a good combination. I had that and it was a speed demon. But it was a lousy choice for my first sport jet. If you do get an UF, get with someone who has a lot of experience with a UF to train you! The UF will snap quickly (mine did 15 times, No B.S., before I learned how to avoid that.) and they are a real bugger to get slowed down enough to land cost effectively. I went through a lot of nose gear pins and wingtip paint. These are just the prices you pay for teaching yourself how to fly a UF for a first jet, ... if you are lucky! Once you get some experienced help with it, then they are a great plane. But they will get away from the operator quickly if the operator is not experienced. If set up perfectly, the UF is a great flyer too. But they do NOT like much rudder when flying slow. Also, about 4mm of crow helps with slow flying on flaps. The UF has a faulty elevator hinge design, for high speeds! I replaced my UF's stab twice, and still the last one failed causing the one side's elevator to flutter and come apart resulting in the end of the UF. After 50 or so flights on the UF, you have to keep an eye on the elevator hinge after every flight and keep a couple spare stabs on hand because of the delays in getting a new one. However, you can get new ones and they the paint and pattern does match well! Once the elevator flutters, that is the end of the airframe!
In my opinion, when comparing the Rebel to the UF, the Rebel is not built strong enough for constant high-speed flight. With my K142, I fly my Rebel at 1/3rd - 1/2 throttle most of the time. I could easily get 10 minutes or more on the OEM fuel tank. The Rebel would probably do just as well with a 120 or 130. That would help it slow down better for landing, etc.. But it still lands great with the 142. Just have to idle it a lot sooner for landing and set the CG slightly nose heavy to avoid floating, etc. But the Rebel is a great flyer and with a 140, she will go straight up until you pull the throttle back. On a flat pass, it is not anywhere near as fast as the UF even with the same turbine as the UF. Lastly, the Rebel's airframe is not built anywhere close to being as sturdy as the UF. But, the Rebel was not built for speed either.
The orange color always shows up well. But no matter what color you get, if the sun is from the wrong direction, you will be flying a shadow. You need to be ready for that and get used to it! However, on a Rebel I would get a custom paint scheme on the wing's bottom (e.g. broad contrasting stripes or maybe a starburst/checkered pattern on the bottom of the wing, etc.) CARF did good job on my starburst with checker. But ultimately, I just fly the shape of the plane most of the time.
As far as speed, the K142 in an Ultraflash (UF) is a good combination. I had that and it was a speed demon. But it was a lousy choice for my first sport jet. If you do get an UF, get with someone who has a lot of experience with a UF to train you! The UF will snap quickly (mine did 15 times, No B.S., before I learned how to avoid that.) and they are a real bugger to get slowed down enough to land cost effectively. I went through a lot of nose gear pins and wingtip paint. These are just the prices you pay for teaching yourself how to fly a UF for a first jet, ... if you are lucky! Once you get some experienced help with it, then they are a great plane. But they will get away from the operator quickly if the operator is not experienced. If set up perfectly, the UF is a great flyer too. But they do NOT like much rudder when flying slow. Also, about 4mm of crow helps with slow flying on flaps. The UF has a faulty elevator hinge design, for high speeds! I replaced my UF's stab twice, and still the last one failed causing the one side's elevator to flutter and come apart resulting in the end of the UF. After 50 or so flights on the UF, you have to keep an eye on the elevator hinge after every flight and keep a couple spare stabs on hand because of the delays in getting a new one. However, you can get new ones and they the paint and pattern does match well! Once the elevator flutters, that is the end of the airframe!
In my opinion, when comparing the Rebel to the UF, the Rebel is not built strong enough for constant high-speed flight. With my K142, I fly my Rebel at 1/3rd - 1/2 throttle most of the time. I could easily get 10 minutes or more on the OEM fuel tank. The Rebel would probably do just as well with a 120 or 130. That would help it slow down better for landing, etc.. But it still lands great with the 142. Just have to idle it a lot sooner for landing and set the CG slightly nose heavy to avoid floating, etc. But the Rebel is a great flyer and with a 140, she will go straight up until you pull the throttle back. On a flat pass, it is not anywhere near as fast as the UF even with the same turbine as the UF. Lastly, the Rebel's airframe is not built anywhere close to being as sturdy as the UF. But, the Rebel was not built for speed either.
Last edited by Len Todd; 03-01-2023 at 05:26 AM.
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Canadian Man (03-01-2023),
Skunkwrks (03-01-2023)
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rc4flying (03-01-2023)
03-01-2023, 06:35 AM
#603
Thanks guys for the replies! I was hesitant to ask that question, but now I'm glad I did because it was all very insightful.
Before I ask any other questions, I'm going to carefully read this thread from the beginning and take notes.
Rich
Before I ask any other questions, I'm going to carefully read this thread from the beginning and take notes.
Rich
03-01-2023, 11:15 AM
#604
I have flown many turbine jets over the years, ranging in size from K30 to K160. I have never found color to be the primary attribute that determines how easy it is to determine orientation in flight. For me it's always been shape way more than color, even on overcast days. For me, color is most helpful on landing when the jet is relatively close in and dips below a distant tree line making it harder to see. I decided to go with the Red Launch scheme on my Rebel, have not flown it yet, will report out on it as soon as I do
. -Tom
. -Tom
03-01-2023, 05:29 PM
#605
My Feedback: (28)
I'm ready to pull the trigger on the Rebel 2m for a first turbine, but having a hard time deciding on a color and scheme to inquire about. Watching videos, the green seems to be the most visible, but it's just not grabbing me. I think the Infinity orange looks the best, but I'm hoping it has good visibility. Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated!
There may be more important questions in the future, but for now I'm stuck.
There may be more important questions in the future, but for now I'm stuck.
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bodywerks (03-06-2023)
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03-02-2023, 06:32 AM
#608
My Feedback: (13)
I've just finished putting my Rebel together and have an issue. When installing the elevators, they slide on very easily. They aren't loose in any way and fit onto the jet nicely. However, putting the wings on damn near takes every once of muscle I have. The right side is worse than the left but they are both extremely tight. They initially slide onto the wing tube very easily but as the tube gets deeper into the wing, there is a lot of resistance. On the same note, as bad as it is putting the wings on, getting them off is damn near impossible. So that I don't damage the paint, I have to use a plastic pry bar just to initially get them away from the root of the fuselage. Is there any way or technique to make them fit more easily?
Lamont
Lamont
03-02-2023, 06:37 AM
#609
My Feedback: (1)
I've just finished putting my Rebel together and have an issue. When installing the elevators, they slide on very easily. They aren't loose in any way and fit onto the jet nicely. However, putting the wings on damn near takes every once of muscle I have. The right side is worse than the left but they are both extremely tight. They initially slide onto the wing tube very easily but as the tube gets deeper into the wing, there is a lot of resistance. On the same note, as bad as it is putting the wings on, getting them off is damn near impossible. So that I don't damage the paint, I have to use a plastic pry bar just to initially get them away from the root of the fuselage. Is there any way or technique to make them fit more easily?
Lamont
Lamont
Also make sure when you're sanding to sand the entire area. Do not concentrate on one point or it'll be uneven.
Scott
03-03-2023, 10:20 AM
#614
I've just finished putting my Rebel together and have an issue. When installing the elevators, they slide on very easily. They aren't loose in any way and fit onto the jet nicely. However, putting the wings on damn near takes every once of muscle I have. The right side is worse than the left but they are both extremely tight. They initially slide onto the wing tube very easily but as the tube gets deeper into the wing, there is a lot of resistance. On the same note, as bad as it is putting the wings on, getting them off is damn near impossible. So that I don't damage the paint, I have to use a plastic pry bar just to initially get them away from the root of the fuselage. Is there any way or technique to make them fit more easily?
Lamont
Lamont
Tone
03-04-2023, 07:33 AM
#617
[QUOTE=GREMOS;12764156]gedachten voor een rooktank, tijdens het gebruik van cmjet's 4 lt kero tank??? heeft enyone mount iets?? [/CITAAT]
CARF Rebel 2m Pagina 2 ModelbouwForum.nl
CARF Rebel 2m Pagina 2 ModelbouwForum.nl
Last edited by grolleman; 03-04-2023 at 08:31 AM. Reason: wrong info
03-04-2023, 07:33 AM
#618
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grolleman (03-04-2023)
03-07-2023, 02:50 PM
#621
I did not have wing tube problems with the Rebel. Mine had a perfect fit!
But I have had wing tube fit problems with other planes. I use a 1/4" rod with a 2" slit in the end and sandpaper in the slit. Using a drill motor, I work the sandpaper in and out of the wing. Usually, it only takes a couple passes to knock out the glue or wood that is casing the interference with the wing tube. I did have one set of wings that I had to sand on the wing tube also. But that wing tube came with an oversized OD. I typically hate to sand on the wing tube because they are so thin. But this one was thick, so it got sanded too.
Also, sometimes some silicone spray on the wing tube helps a lot. If I sand on the tube, I use very fine sandpaper (i.e. 400 wet) and axial travel to sand it. Having to deal with a sicky wing tube at the field is a real PITA
But I have had wing tube fit problems with other planes. I use a 1/4" rod with a 2" slit in the end and sandpaper in the slit. Using a drill motor, I work the sandpaper in and out of the wing. Usually, it only takes a couple passes to knock out the glue or wood that is casing the interference with the wing tube. I did have one set of wings that I had to sand on the wing tube also. But that wing tube came with an oversized OD. I typically hate to sand on the wing tube because they are so thin. But this one was thick, so it got sanded too.
Also, sometimes some silicone spray on the wing tube helps a lot. If I sand on the tube, I use very fine sandpaper (i.e. 400 wet) and axial travel to sand it. Having to deal with a sicky wing tube at the field is a real PITA
03-07-2023, 03:50 PM
#622
My Feedback: (13)
I actually got it fixed today. My wing tube hole measured at 1-3/16 inch. I went to the local hardware store and picked up a 1-1/8 inch wooden dowel and some 120 grit sandpaper which had the adhesive on the back. Wrapping the sandpaper around dowel, this gave a good but not too tight fit inside the tube hole. After a few passes of sanding a little and then testing, things fit nicely now. I did keep it a little snug just to be on the safe side but all in all the can easily get everything on and off without any struggle.
Lamont
Lamont
03-23-2023, 04:05 PM
#623
Got 3 flights on mine between yesterday and today. Using Dave’s CG advice it’s spot on. Thanks Dave. The ailerons throws in the book seemed to be a bit to quick for my liking even with a high expo number, so I cut them back to about 2/3 of what the factory recommendation. The electron gear work great and when the plane lands it sticks to the ground. My 2 cents
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03-25-2023, 05:33 PM
#624
My Feedback: (28)
https://www.towerhobbies.com/product...oz/DUB424.html