Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > RC Jets
Reload this Page >

CARF REBEL 2m

Notices
RC Jets Discuss RC jets in this forum plus rc turbines and ducted fan power systems

CARF REBEL 2m

Old 06-21-2020, 06:27 PM
  #126  
bodywerks
My Feedback: (4)
 
bodywerks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Elgin, AZ
Posts: 3,729
Received 36 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

Looking at it again, it might not be airex, but it is a clean, stout structure


The following users liked this post:
paulhat (06-22-2020)
Old 06-26-2020, 05:04 PM
  #127  
cmjets
 
cmjets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Pontevedra, SPAIN
Posts: 1,671
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Hello, now in CMJETS, the new 3L kero + 1L smoke tank for Carf and Pirotti planes.




The following users liked this post:
bodywerks (06-27-2020)
Old 06-26-2020, 05:10 PM
  #128  
Agrav8ed
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 196
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

So I decided to try a Rebel. It is still being shipped but the tank and thrust tube showed up today. I noticed that the bell of the thrust tube is carbon but could not see a mounting flange in the box. Could anyone tell me how the thrust tube is mounted?
Thanks,
Tone
Old 06-26-2020, 05:20 PM
  #129  
Dansy
My Feedback: (53)
 
Dansy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Prescott, Ont.
Posts: 1,907
Received 23 Likes on 21 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Agrav8ed View Post
So I decided to try a Rebel. It is still being shipped but the tank and thrust tube showed up today. I noticed that the bell of the thrust tube is carbon but could not see a mounting flange in the box. Could anyone tell me how the thrust tube is mounted?
Thanks,
Tone
there should be one little hole....in the Carbon/pipe (just finished a Rebel Pro build)

in the box you will have a rib made of carbon and foam with a little piece of ply and a screw (I have replaced that and the screw for a hex servo screw)....that will need to be glued on the top of the aft fuselage....pipe mount to that....now I’m guessing all this but it is the way the pipe mount into the Pro and Max version....as well as the mephisto
Old 06-27-2020, 01:30 AM
  #130  
bodywerks
My Feedback: (4)
 
bodywerks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Elgin, AZ
Posts: 3,729
Received 36 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Dansy View Post
there should be one little hole....in the Carbon/pipe (just finished a Rebel Pro build)

in the box you will have a rib made of carbon and foam with a little piece of ply and a screw (I have replaced that and the screw for a hex servo screw)....that will need to be glued on the top of the aft fuselage....pipe mount to that....now Im guessing all this but it is the way the pipe mount into the Pro and Max version....as well as the mephisto
I believe it is the same as the HOT moreso than the Pro or Max, where the former aft of the turbine mounts has a round cutout that matches the diameter of the bell opening. Once you get the turbine perfectly centered in the fuselage (Use points of the fuselage inner skin to determine center, NOT the plywood parts they glue in, as they have proven twice for me to NOT be perfectly, equally installed - the fuselage mold was made by CNC whereas the plywood was installed by man .) you will have a little wiggle room to shim around the pipe bell as needed to get it centered. I used three screws equally spaced (same for the shims) and drilled through the carbon bell, shims and into the plywood former and used self-tapping screws to hold it in place.
I'll look at my classic in the a.m. to verify.
Old 06-27-2020, 01:34 AM
  #131  
bodywerks
My Feedback: (4)
 
bodywerks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Elgin, AZ
Posts: 3,729
Received 36 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Agrav8ed View Post
So I decided to try a Rebel. It is still being shipped but the tank and thrust tube showed up today. I noticed that the bell of the thrust tube is carbon but could not see a mounting flange in the box. Could anyone tell me how the thrust tube is mounted?
Thanks,
Tone
DUH!!! I just made a long post about installing the pipe and forgot I posted a pic of my Rebel classic just a few posts above(post # 126). Look at the bottom pic to the left. They drilled right through the bell and into a couple plywood blocks. Simple.
I know you're a swiwin guy. What are you putting in yours? a 140 would probably be perfect. Mine's getting a 170
Old 06-27-2020, 05:13 PM
  #132  
Agrav8ed
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 196
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bodywerks View Post
DUH!!! I just made a long post about installing the pipe and forgot I posted a pic of my Rebel classic just a few posts above(post # 126). Look at the bottom pic to the left. They drilled right through the bell and into a couple plywood blocks. Simple.
I know you're a swiwin guy. What are you putting in yours? a 140 would probably be perfect. Mine's getting a 170
Thanks for the info. This is the first jet ai have seen that does not use some type of metal flange or bracket to mount the thrust tube. Thanks for the info, the manual does not state anything about mounting it.
You called it. I am putting a swiwin 140 in mine. Miami assuming that it will be enough. The Rebel should be here next week. I also ordered Electron retracts as I am not a big fan of the JP's uneven braking.
Tone
Old 06-28-2020, 01:14 AM
  #133  
bodywerks
My Feedback: (4)
 
bodywerks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Elgin, AZ
Posts: 3,729
Received 36 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

Tell me about it on the JP brakes. I upgrade all my controllers to xicoy and I still get uneven braking, but the gyro-controlled brakes at least keep it from skidding sideways. I just finished an Ultra flash. One brake locks up almost completely and the other one hardly locks up at all. Had to drop 'the good one' down to 80% power and have brake gyro gain set at 75%.
Old 06-28-2020, 07:30 AM
  #134  
Dave Wilshere
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 11,333
Likes: 0
Received 68 Likes on 62 Posts
Default

Have you checked the shim spacers in the wheels?
Old 06-28-2020, 10:53 AM
  #135  
Dave Wilshere
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 11,333
Likes: 0
Received 68 Likes on 62 Posts
Default

First of two 2M Classics for my local club. P-130Rx JetCat (150+N) PB Core and a Mercury SRS


Old 06-29-2020, 12:28 AM
  #136  
bodywerks
My Feedback: (4)
 
bodywerks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Elgin, AZ
Posts: 3,729
Received 36 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere View Post
Have you checked the shim spacers in the wheels?
Referring to me? No. They are brand new and were pre-installed by the CARF factory. what should I look for? more shims in one than the other?
Old 06-29-2020, 09:08 AM
  #137  
Dave Wilshere
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 11,333
Likes: 0
Received 68 Likes on 62 Posts
Default

Yep 🙂
The almost certainly come from JP assembled. I noticed on my Joker different shims, the washers are really thin. The side that is weak you can take some out of the wheel and place under the C clip.
If you check the wheel float now de powered are both wheels the same?
I always dismantle pre assembled units to grease check etc.

Dave
Old 06-29-2020, 10:42 AM
  #138  
Bob_B
My Feedback: (11)
 
Bob_B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Bluegrass State of Mind
Posts: 4,207
Received 15 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

So the uneven braking is a shim issue on JP units? Interesting
I recently removed the little magnets that pull the disk back and now noticed the one wheel drags.
Good Info.
Old 06-29-2020, 12:17 PM
  #139  
Dave Wilshere
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 11,333
Likes: 0
Received 68 Likes on 62 Posts
Default

Bob

It’s how I sorted my and customers Joker brakes.
The following users liked this post:
bodywerks (06-30-2020)
Old 06-29-2020, 01:21 PM
  #140  
Agrav8ed
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 196
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Are you guys using the header tank that came with the jet? Is this supposed to take the place of a UAT? What's the purpose?
thanks,
Tone
Old 06-29-2020, 01:57 PM
  #141  
cmjets
 
cmjets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Pontevedra, SPAIN
Posts: 1,671
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

But .... the kit include UAT ? I think not.
you need it always.
Old 06-29-2020, 09:00 PM
  #142  
Dave Wilshere
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 11,333
Likes: 0
Received 68 Likes on 62 Posts
Default

CARF always supply parts to make your own bubble trap. It works perfectly if you can be bothered to make it up. 99% would use an after market UAT my favourite is the MAP Canada unit suitable for your size of turbine.

Dave
The following users liked this post:
bodywerks (06-30-2020)
Old 06-29-2020, 10:11 PM
  #143  
cmjets
 
cmjets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Pontevedra, SPAIN
Posts: 1,671
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

3L kero + 1L smoke tank installed.
thanks to Melvin Damen for the pictures.





The following users liked this post:
bodywerks (06-30-2020)
Old 06-30-2020, 10:36 AM
  #144  
bodywerks
My Feedback: (4)
 
bodywerks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Elgin, AZ
Posts: 3,729
Received 36 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere View Post
Yep 🙂
The almost certainly come from JP assembled. I noticed on my Joker different shims, the washers are really thin. The side that is weak you can take some out of the wheel and place under the C clip.
If you check the wheel float now de powered are both wheels the same?
I always dismantle pre assembled units to grease check etc.

Dave
thank you. Do you grease the drum? Bvm/Park-o lube?
Old 06-30-2020, 10:40 AM
  #145  
bodywerks
My Feedback: (4)
 
bodywerks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Elgin, AZ
Posts: 3,729
Received 36 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Agrav8ed View Post
Are you guys using the header tank that came with the jet? Is this supposed to take the place of a UAT? What's the purpose?
thanks,
Tone
It is a 100% effective and very good UAT. But I usually use intairco. If you use it, pull the foam off the pick up clunk and make sure all the holes look like enough to feed a 140. But they probably are.
Old 06-30-2020, 11:19 AM
  #146  
Dave Wilshere
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 11,333
Likes: 0
Received 68 Likes on 62 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bodywerks View Post
thank you. Do you grease the drum? Bvm/Park-o lube?
I gave mine the lightest wipe of silicon grease, just to reduce the chance of pick up.
The following users liked this post:
bodywerks (06-30-2020)
Old 07-03-2020, 06:00 AM
  #147  
Agrav8ed
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 196
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

I have a few questions since this is my first Rebel.
1. The clevis they use appears to have a 3mm clevis pin. I was under the impression that aluminum pin on an aluminum would build up slop. Is everyone using this clevis's or are they upgrading to ball links?
2. What length servo arms are being used on the elevators?
3. Does this jet tend to require nose weight? I noticed from the pics that many pilots are placing the batteries right in the nose.
4. Besides fuel proofing the wood, are there any other tips or tricks I should keep an eye out for?
5. I could not find the threaded link for the elevators. Is this an oversight or something we are supposed to provide?
Thanks,
Tone

Last edited by Agrav8ed; 07-03-2020 at 06:16 AM.
Old 07-03-2020, 06:32 AM
  #148  
skymaster68
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (4)
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 361
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Agrav8ed View Post
I have a few questions since this is my first Rebel.
1. The clevis they use appears to have a 3mm clevis pin. I was under the impression that aluminum pin on an aluminum would build up slop. Is everyone using this clevis's or are they upgrading to ball links?
2. What length servo arms are being used on the elevators?
3. Does this jet tend to require nose weight? I noticed from the pics that many pilots are placing the batteries right in the nose.
4. Besides fuel proofing the wood, are there any other tips or tricks I should keep an eye out for?
5. I could not find the threaded link for the elevators. Is this an oversight or something we are supposed to provide?
Thanks,
Tone
Hey, I used the CARF hardware that came with mine, never had a problem with them in any of my carf planes, if you install the bateries up front you shouldn't need any extra lead, i placed a 2100 liffe bat on the nose and 02 2600 LIion by the nose LG... for elevators and ailerons I used 1'' arms all around and 1.5 on rudder....

Last edited by skymaster68; 07-03-2020 at 09:58 AM.
Old 07-03-2020, 07:02 AM
  #149  
bodywerks
My Feedback: (4)
 
bodywerks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Elgin, AZ
Posts: 3,729
Received 36 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Agrav8ed View Post
I have a few questions since this is my first Rebel.
1. The clevis they use appears to have a 3mm clevis pin. I was under the impression that aluminum pin on an aluminum would build up slop. Is everyone using this clevis's or are they upgrading to ball links?
2. What length servo arms are being used on the elevators?
3. Does this jet tend to require nose weight? I noticed from the pics that many pilots are placing the batteries right in the nose.
4. Besides fuel proofing the wood, are there any other tips or tricks I should keep an eye out for?
5. I could not find the threaded link for the elevators. Is this an oversight or something we are supposed to provide?
Thanks,
Tone
I used the stock hardware on my hot, but am going to use aluminum arms on the classic and switch out clevis that you mention for dubro hd 4-40 ball links.
Build is straight forward and cg should be easily achieved. On my hot, I'm back of the wing tube with full uat and a little under 1/4 tank of fuel. I recommend the same for the 2M.
Carf should have provided 3mm threaded rod for all control surfaces, with the tail hardware being in its own bag.
I can't say for sure what length arms are needed for flaps but 1.5" sounds excessively long. You should use max resolution of servo throw, and with full landing flaps set, the servo arm should be such that it and the pushrod form a straight line to the flap connection point. I would think max asrm length would be 1", and you could possibly get away with 3/4".
Old 07-03-2020, 08:38 AM
  #150  
Dave Wilshere
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Watford, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 11,333
Likes: 0
Received 68 Likes on 62 Posts
Default

You just lightly grease the pins and they won’t wear and metal metal is not a worry these days-plus the grease dampens that chance

20mm is about right on elevator

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.