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Juniaer K45TP Tucano from Brazil?

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Juniaer K45TP Tucano from Brazil?

Old 11-22-2020, 12:30 PM
  #51  
Didier
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Originally Posted by didiwatt View Post
Biella 20 x 14 is the one recommended and works fine for me.
Junier recommends JC 20 x 14 which you can order from Aircraft International. It is wood and much lighter and lets the motor rev up higher with better performance in my opinion but I like them both.
After talking to Dirk at KT about the gearbox lube tube not fitting, we decided to use clear fuel line which works great. With the carbon fiber engine mount, it is easy to route the plastic tubing away from the hot exhaust parts.
I have really good experience with Ramoser varioprop om my TopRC Zero (Saito 90R3). Much better efficiency compared to the Biela. I am leaning to the Ramoser option. Otherwise the Biela 20x14 (turbo) will be the one to go for.
The JC are,as far as I know, not available in Europe. Also they are really expensive for a wooden prop. Same price as the Ramoser 😬

Thanks for the tip about the plastic tubing to the GB. Did you “shield” it somehow?
Old 11-22-2020, 12:42 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by didiwatt View Post
Didier,
I also used Electrons. I also using Electron legs.
The mains with trailing ling are ok but I don't like the trailing link nose gear. Does not look right.
Are you using Electron nose gear? If so, does the Juniaer nose strut work on it? You did not post any pictures of your nose gear set up.
Paul
Hello Paul.

I am gonna use the original nose strut with a electron retract. I opted for the 8mm (biggest available) connecting pin. The strut pin requires a 10 mm. I still need a 10-8mm metal bushing. Easy to get and adjust but did not have time for it. I already installed the nose retract an steering servo






Last edited by Didier; 11-22-2020 at 01:08 PM.
Old 11-22-2020, 12:50 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by ravill View Post
Keep those pics coming!!

I love the surface detail!

Where to get again? Let me search the thread....
One the most beautiful surface finish I have ever seen. As cream on the ice, all decals already applied on the surface. And clear coat on top of it! If I buy, for example, a CARF model, I still have to buy an expensive decal set!
Old 11-22-2020, 12:52 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by DUCMOZ View Post
For those that want to build the 50CC version and use Electric motor, please be aware that the motors that are listed in manual fit but no other motor like hacker or the Espirit Elite would not fit. I learned this in the hard way by purchasing an expensive Elite motor and many different shaft extender etc. and none worked as the upper part of the cowl would not fit if installed.

behzad
Really good info!
As somebody I know wants to go for the electric set-up.
Old 11-22-2020, 01:30 PM
  #55  
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Motor install and location for rudder servo if you use the scale cockpit.
Old 11-28-2020, 06:39 AM
  #56  
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Old 11-28-2020, 10:49 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Neil Guildford View Post
Looks awesome.
Did you already weighed the Tucano?
We like the same planes. I have a Toprc Zero as well 😉
Old 11-28-2020, 12:11 PM
  #58  
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I haven’t weighed it yet, I have just a few more things to do first.
Any idea how far out the exhaust pipes need to project?
The Zero is a great plane, albeit a little slow with a saito 84.
Old 11-28-2020, 01:30 PM
  #59  
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I have to trim my exhaust but I guess around what you see in the picture.

Off topic: My zero was slow with a Biela 22x12 but is “fast” now with a Romoser with a pitch around 14,5”



Old 11-29-2020, 11:18 AM
  #60  
Neil Guildford
 
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Pipes and spinner cut.

I went slightly longer on the exhaust pipes to try and avoid heat build up on the wing and canopy. I’ve also directed both of them very slightly up.


Old 11-29-2020, 02:04 PM
  #61  
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Looks awesome! 😃
I guess I have got the same spinner as you.
I am working on the nosegear doors but that is
not the easiest part of the build. What kind of material are you gonna use
as thermal barrier inside the upper engine cowling?
Old 11-29-2020, 10:37 PM
  #62  
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I’ve applied 2 coats of BVM heat shield paint to the whole area....hope it’s enough!
Old 11-30-2020, 10:12 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Neil Guildford View Post
I’ve applied 2 coats of BVM heat shield paint to the whole area....hope it’s enough!
Neil, I was thinking about this thermal barrier. The first picture is 1mm thickness. The second picture is 3mm thickness. Any experience with this kind of barrier?



Old 11-30-2020, 11:35 PM
  #64  
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I’ve not tried these before. You need to make sure it doesn’t stop the turbine and gearbox from cooling.
Old 12-01-2020, 05:24 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Neil Guildford View Post
I’ve not tried these before. You need to make sure it doesn’t stop the turbine and gearbox from cooling.
You mean “by accident” blocking the cooling?
As this is my first turboprop, I guess the opening around the exhaust pipes is you cooling air exit.
Old 12-01-2020, 05:43 AM
  #66  
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The area around the gearbox and exhaust will get very hot! and it is after shutdown that the cowl will reach its hottest. Likewise, the cooler the turbine, the longer it will last.
My approach is to allow the maximum clearance and airflow around the turbine and gearbox whilst protecting the cowl with heat reflecting paint.
It can sometimes be necessary to cut slots in the cowl to increase cooling but I am going to wait until after I've run it up before making that decision. In summer, it can help if you cool the cowl with a small electric blower.
Old 12-01-2020, 05:49 AM
  #67  
Didier
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Originally Posted by Neil Guildford View Post

I’ve purchased the Biela 5 blade 20x10, which cutting the spinner for is going to be challenging! I can’t see that there is enough clearance for a 22inch, especially since I plan to fly from grass.
Is there any reason you went for this prop?
Pitch of 10” seems a bit on the low side?
Old 12-01-2020, 05:54 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Neil Guildford View Post
The area around the gearbox and exhaust will get very hot! and it is after shutdown that the cowl will reach its hottest. Likewise, the cooler the turbine, the longer it will last.
My approach is to allow the maximum clearance and airflow around the turbine and gearbox whilst protecting the cowl with heat reflecting paint.
It can sometimes be necessary to cut slots in the cowl to increase cooling but I am going to wait until after I've run it up before making that decision. In summer, it can help if you cool the cowl with a small electric blower.
Thanks for the explanation.
Then I will searching for the BVM Stuff.
I already bought an air matrass compressor on battery. 😂




Old 12-01-2020, 06:16 AM
  #69  
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My mistake, it is a 20 x 12 5B

I use the dewalt compact blower, but yours looks much better.
Old 12-01-2020, 07:38 PM
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The birds are looking great! I am working on a 50cc version as well. Love seeing other ideas!
Old 12-02-2020, 06:35 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Jworden84 View Post
The birds are looking great! I am working on a 50cc version as well. Love seeing other ideas!
Nice. Feel free to post pictures! 👍
Old 12-04-2020, 02:07 AM
  #72  
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My landing gear and doors set-up


Old 12-04-2020, 02:29 AM
  #73  
Neil Guildford
 
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Great job!

I wasn’t able to fit the steering mechanism inside the cowl like you have.
Old 12-04-2020, 02:49 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Neil Guildford View Post
Great job!

I wasn’t able to fit the steering mechanism inside the cowl like you have.
Thanks. I’ve heard that the original gear has the steering mechanism out of the cowling. With electron it was on the limit.
Old 12-04-2020, 09:54 AM
  #75  
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Does the new gear come with Electron ? mine is not with that.

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