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Jp electric landing gear????

Old 11-18-2019, 08:57 AM
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furloughed ual
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Default Jp electric landing gear????

Anyone have experience with the JP electric landing gear? I am only interested in the electric actuator and controller operation and reliability/issues you may or may not have had. Looking at retrofitting some pneumatic gear cylinders with the JP actuators. I believe they are the cylinders in the T1 Models T3?
Thanks!
Old 11-18-2019, 09:08 AM
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swk550
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I have the Pilot branded version in my Predator and the JP Hobby branded version in my Sebart Avanti xs. Love them. Never a problem. The JP Hobby V2 controller in the Avanti has been flawless.
Old 11-18-2019, 09:30 AM
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Bob_B
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I have four sets of the JP Gear and all have been flawless in operation.
Old 11-18-2019, 11:06 AM
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Dansy
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I’m changing my JP gear from my T-1 and a Turbo Prop with electron as well the air mechanic of my SMPC21 to electron (keeping the air brakes), my jets except for the mini t-1 which so far has been flawless mine you the brakes are not great.

I have replaced parts on the T-1 gear and TP and I needed more part now, also cost me a shaft on the TP, when the gear decided not to come down......didn’t damage anything but the prop and motor shaft......but that was expensive enough to rethink these retract.....
Old 11-18-2019, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dansy View Post
Iím changing my JP gear from my T-1 and a Turbo Prop with electron as well the air mechanic of my SMPC21 to electron (keeping the air brakes), my jets except for the mini t-1 which so far has been flawless mine you the brakes are not great.

I have replaced parts on the T-1 gear and TP and I needed more part now, also cost me a shaft on the TP, when the gear decided not to come down......didnít damage anything but the prop and motor shaft......but that was expensive enough to rethink these retract.....
Dansy, what parts were replaced? Did the electric actuator/ram fail or other retract parts malfunction
Old 11-18-2019, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by furloughed ual View Post
Dansy, what parts were replaced? Did the electric actuator/ram fail or other retract parts malfunction
In between 4 sets of JP, I had one brake that suddenly lockup after about 40 flights or so....tire required....2 actuators motors and the last one...also cost me a biela 24x12 turbo prop and $500 of motor to fix the K45TP, 2 trunnions that the bearing fall of once I took it out...on both side got 2 trunnions to replaced them, but it seem that one of those motor is on the way out....with that and the TP I told myself enough of this and order 3 set of Electronís

The only JP left is in the mini T-1, but I might change them as well before something happen the brakes are terrible like the other ones.....I havenít decided yet will do a good inspection this winter....

I know some really like them good for them, Iím done with thing that breaks sometimes (once is once too many)!
Old 11-18-2019, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Dansy View Post


In between 4 sets of JP, I had one brake that suddenly lockup after about 40 flights or so....tire required....2 actuators motors and the last one...also cost me a biela 24x12 turbo prop and $500 of motor to fix the K45TP, 2 trunnions that the bearing fall of once I took it out...on both side got 2 trunnions to replaced them, but it seem that one of those motor is on the way out....with that and the TP I told myself enough of this and order 3 set of Electronís

The only JP left is in the mini T-1, but I might change them as well before something happen the brakes are terrible like the other ones.....I havenít decided yet will do a good inspection this winter....

I know some really like them good for them, Iím done with thing that breaks sometimes (once is once too many)!
Thanks,,,,
Old 11-18-2019, 06:07 PM
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My T-1's OEM electric gear works great. Just toss the JP controller and put in an LGC 15. Eliminate the permanent magnets in the hubs and properly set the wheel's axial tolerance and they work just fine. The gear operators have been flawless. If you are flying off grass you need to keep any gear and operators clean. If you fly a lot, you need to make sure the axial tolerance does not increase, due to wear, to the point that the disk drops off the support pins. Also, keep the electro magnets clean when flying off dirt of grass. But, … my prolinks need all the same type of attention. Any electric gear needs it.

The OEM gear motors can not be run with > 7.5 VDC. The JP controller regulates voltage. Xicoy controllers do not. Need to use a separate voltage regulator with a xicoy controller or use a lower voltage battery. Higher voltages will most-likely burn out the gear motors.

There are current limiters in electric gear controllers. If you run the operator's motor to the mechanical stops w/o a controller, then the motors will most-likely and quickly burn out!
Old 11-18-2019, 06:17 PM
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When you consider the extra $695 usd plus the LG15 $175usd plus what ever I paid for the voltage regulator, plus all the parts I got in the last 2 years for these gear.........if anybody think’s that I’m happy to have to buy an Electron $$$ set to make sure my gear work properly and that now I will actually have good reliable breaking....your dreaming.....

When I got my plane (arrived early 2017) there was no option for no gear....if I would ever buy another T-1, Mini T-1 or T-3....I would just buy no gear and get the electron from the get go....the money I save on the order (no gear +extra for the electric) would pay for the electron...
Old 11-18-2019, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Len Todd View Post
My T-1's OEM electric gear works great. Just toss the JP controller and put in an LGC 15. Eliminate the permanent magnets in the hubs and properly set the wheel's axial tolerance and they work just fine. The gear operators have been flawless. If you are flying off grass you need to keep any gear and operators clean. If you fly a lot, you need to make sure the axial tolerance does not increase, due to wear, to the point that the disk drops off the support pins. Also, keep the electro magnets clean when flying off dirt of grass. But, Ö my prolinks need all the same type of attention. Any electric gear needs it.

The OEM gear motors can not be run with > 7.5 VDC. The JP controller regulates voltage. Xicoy controllers do not. Need to use a separate voltage regulator with a xicoy controller or use a lower voltage battery. Higher voltages will most-likely burn out the gear motors.

There are current limiters in electric gear controllers. If you run the operator's motor to the mechanical stops w/o a controller, then the motors will most-likely and quickly burn out!

Not using brakes, so would the JP controller be ok to run just the actuators? Excellent reply Len. Thereís knowledge behind your reply
Old 11-18-2019, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Len Todd View Post
My T-1's OEM electric gear works great. Just toss the JP controller and put in an LGC 15. Eliminate the permanent magnets in the hubs and properly set the wheel's axial tolerance and they work just fine. The gear operators have been flawless. If you are flying off grass you need to keep any gear and operators clean. If you fly a lot, you need to make sure the axial tolerance does not increase, due to wear, to the point that the disk drops off the support pins. Also, keep the electro magnets clean when flying off dirt of grass. But, Ö my prolinks need all the same type of attention. Any electric gear needs it.

The OEM gear motors can not be run with > 7.5 VDC. The JP controller regulates voltage. Xicoy controllers do not. Need to use a separate voltage regulator with a xicoy controller or use a lower voltage battery. Higher voltages will most-likely burn out the gear motors.

There are current limiters in electric gear controllers. If you run the operator's motor to the mechanical stops w/o a controller, then the motors will most-likely and quickly burn out!
Originally Posted by Dansy View Post
When you consider the extra $695 usd plus the LG15 $175usd plus what ever I paid for the voltage regulator, plus all the parts I got in the last 2 years for these gear.........if anybody thinkís that Iím happy to have to buy an Electron $$$ set to make sure my gear work properly and that now I will actually have good reliable breaking....your dreaming.....

When I got my plane (arrived early 2017) there was no option for no gear....if I would ever buy another T-1, Mini T-1 or T-3....I would just buy no gear and get the electron from the get go....the money I save on the order (no gear +extra for the electric) would pay for the electron...

Unfortunately the Electron motor canít be retrofitted to the retract units I have. The build of the actuator attachment is the problem. Iíd love to use Electron, but itís not an option.
Old 11-18-2019, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by furloughed ual View Post
Unfortunately the Electron motor canít be retrofitted to the retract units I have. The build of the actuator attachment is the problem. Iíd love to use Electron, but itís not an option.
ĎIím not trying to sell electron to anybody.....just saying my experience, and not sponsor flier...Iím far from being the only saying what I say about the JP retracts....
Old 11-18-2019, 06:47 PM
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I agree that the current option to buy gearless and ordering electrons is also a good way to go. You can get the GS 200/LGC 15 from the get go. Also, as I understand it, the Electron gear motors are able to handle 2S LiPo voltages directly, just like the Prolink gear. Although, the Electrons are rated at 8.0 VDC.

But that was not the initial question. As I understand it, they were asking about how well the JP gear worked. Electron gear is the same basic design. The GS 200 makes the brakes work well. But, any gear has to be setup and maintained properly to consistently work well, even with a GS 200/LGC15. Also, hard landings will mess up any gear. Sometimes the operators' trunnion channels even have to dressed up and/or lubed to continue reliable operation. Operating any gear motors w/o a controller is a risky proposition.
Old 11-18-2019, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Len Todd View Post
I agree that the current option to buy gearless and ordering electrons is also a good way to go. You can get the GS 200/LGC 15 from the get go. Also, as I understand it, the Electron gear motors are able to handle 2S LiPo voltages directly, just like the Prolink gear. Although, the Electrons are rated at 8.0 VDC.

But that was not the initial question. As I understand it, they were asking about how well the JP gear worked. Electron gear is the same basic design. The GS 200 makes the brakes work well. But, any gear has to be setup and maintained properly to consistently work well, even with a GS 200/LGC15. Also, hard landings will mess up any gear. Sometimes the operators' trunnion channels even have to dressed up and/or lubed to continue reliable operation. Operating any gear motors w/o a controller is a risky proposition.
I had a long paragraph.....but I think Iím just wasting my time.....I got the electron coming....I have Pro-link as well and other electron and none of those ever give any problems....with the cheapest controller.....and the brake worked....
Old 11-18-2019, 07:36 PM
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My brakes in the Prolink never worked correctly until I added the LGC 15. The disks in the electric brakes get magnetized unevenly. I think this happens an all electric brakes. This causes the initial skid when the brakes are applied because one side engages the electromagnet sooner than the other. My Ultra-flash was too light to handle the initial skids. Once I put in the LGC 15, the brake dance was totally gone, even on the light weight UF! The T-1's OEM gear has another issue. There are permanent magnets in the hub to retract the disk. It takes so much electromagnetic force to get the disks off the permanent magnets that once the disk is free, it snaps over to the electro magnet and locks up. Add to that, the varying degree of residual magnetism in the disks themselves, and you initially get unevenly locked up brakes. Let off on the brakes a little bit and then they worked fine. I took out the permanent magnets. Then the LGC 15 fixes the residual effects caused by the varying degree of residual magnetism in the disks. It also has ABS and true proportional braking. Also it allows the force applied to each brake to be individually adjusted. And then there is the Gyro operated braking and steering. All I do now on both of the jets with E brakes is shove the slider all the way up and both planes come to a short, complete and fully controlled stop! This shortened my landing rollout by well over 100'.
Old 11-19-2019, 06:51 AM
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Electron 50s with no extra steering and base controller cost less than the JP 200 sets and have more options related to them

The JP 120, 150, 200 actuators sell separate along with the controller if you want to convert retracts that are pneumatic.
Old 11-19-2019, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by erh7771 View Post
Electron 50s with no extra steering and base controller cost less than the JP 200 sets and have more options related to them

The JP 120, 150, 200 actuators sell separate along with the controller if you want to convert retracts that are pneumatic.
ĎThatís what Iím doing on my SM PC21 3xe50 keeping just the brake on air....
Old 11-20-2019, 09:34 AM
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My way of fixing the JP retracts LOL


Last edited by Dansy; 11-20-2019 at 09:37 AM.
Old 11-20-2019, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Dansy View Post
My way of fixing the JP retracts LOL

Really interested to know what you think and how they work out for you. I havenít placed my order for them for my T-1 yet. I was also wondering if the electron wheels/brakes would fit on the JP gear legs/axles, if you have some time and wouldnít mind doing some measuring and see what you think about that idea for the Mini.
Old 11-20-2019, 10:19 AM
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Had a quick look the wheel are slightly different sizes....JP 3 ľ versus 80mm (3 5/32”) the axles are also different size JP 7mm it seem can’t take that axles without some serious works....versus 6mm. Leg pretty much the same size....
Old 11-21-2019, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Len Todd View Post
My T-1's OEM electric gear works great. Just toss the JP controller and put in an LGC 15. Eliminate the permanent magnets in the hubs and properly set the wheel's axial tolerance and they work just fine. The gear operators have been flawless. If you are flying off grass you need to keep any gear and operators clean. If you fly a lot, you need to make sure the axial tolerance does not increase, due to wear, to the point that the disk drops off the support pins. Also, keep the electro magnets clean when flying off dirt of grass. But, Ö my prolinks need all the same type of attention. Any electric gear needs it.

The OEM gear motors can not be run with > 7.5 VDC. The JP controller regulates voltage. Xicoy controllers do not. Need to use a separate voltage regulator with a xicoy controller or use a lower voltage battery. Higher voltages will most-likely burn out the gear motors.

There are current limiters in electric gear controllers. If you run the operator's motor to the mechanical stops w/o a controller, then the motors will most-likely and quickly burn out!
Len, what settings did you use in the LGC for the JP retracts? I have not seen these published anywhere...
I got an Ultra Flash EVO that came with the JP's. I'm okay with the apparent gear quality (for now) but definitely want to make the change to the brakes (remove the permanent magnet) and swap out the controller.
Old 11-21-2019, 01:44 PM
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These are not shining endorsements for JP gear....
Old 11-21-2019, 04:45 PM
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Not sure if it helps anyone but i has been my experience that the HSD retract are almost identical to the Jp hobby. The HSD brake controller is only 12 bucks. I use it on a spare channel so that each main gear has it's own brake controller and then can be tuned to match. I also program a logical switch so that the brakes pulse like ABS to minimize flat spots.
Tone
Old 11-21-2019, 05:01 PM
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If you have a spare channel this is an economical option anyway.
Tone
Old 11-22-2019, 03:56 AM
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My particular motor settings on my T-1's LGC 15 are currently:

Nose = .7 Amps
Mains = .7 Amps
Max Time = 10
Unload T = .15

I started out at .5 amps on the bench and worked my way up a couple tenths to make sure they go up when flying. So, … I figure my settings are about as low as they can go. It should be noted that I have the Castle voltage regulator set at 7.0 VDC. This runs the gear a little slower than 7.5. I was playing around with this setting this past summer to slow the gear down a bit. But, I am going to set it back to 7.5 again because at 7.0, occasionally a main does not go all the way up. The operator probably needs a bit of cleaning too. I have not taken it apart since the folks a Joe Nall decided to cut the wet grass while we were flying. The whole underside of the plane was a mess after that. Lesson learned!

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