gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

Nice work! If I would have known you where going to be so detailed I would not have bothered making a build thread lol.

not sure what happed on your rudder servo mounts. Mine on the prototype and this new one lined up great.

FenderBean

I think they forgot it and realized it afterwards, Jeff agreed with me about that after seeing it today. He stopped by on the to his house that’s about to be built. We are going to be neighbors, just about 2 miles down the road from me.
sorry about the twin builds I thought about today but I use your build to make sure I’m doing mine correct plus I have the twin and you’re doing the single. So a thread for each

FenderBean

Anyone have the the issue with the rudder drive T end on the rudder being too small for the groove on the servo T joint? I have one that has about a 1/4 of play, the other has what I would consider normal play. If so how they heck did or would you fix this?

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

It been nearly three weeks since I worked on my F-22, but If I remember correctly, my left rudder has that much free movement. Thought about a piece of brass tubing on each side of the ball as a possible solution, but definitely open for other suggestions.

FenderBean

Measured mine today, left is 2.97mm and the right is 3.07mm. Both servo adapters measured 3.07, the slop and gear slop was more than I would fly. I added hysol to the T ends on the rudder side, the brass tube idea would require cutting or grinding the servo adapters and they are steel. I spent all day on the rudder giving up a few times and took my anger out on online first person shooter players LOL I manage to get mine together with and the hysol helped, I may add a small amount of toe in on the rudders to add drag to help prevent flutter. I had to lift my servos a TON 1/4 ply blocks and still had to add 1/8 carbon rectangles to get the correct height, I also added a thick washer to the outboard edge of the servo for the angle. I used my trusty hobbico amp meter while move the rudder when attached to check for binding.
You will need to open up the top area to get the servos in, I put the rudders on an traced with a pencil so I didnt cut past what the rudders will cover.

Two M166TS power plants ready to install when I can figure out how

Blocks to lift rudder servos

Blocks glued in

Steel adapter

Be sure to trace the rudder outline so u dont cut past what is covered by the rudder itself

Done, any only a slight headache

Bottom covers

cycross

So I had the same bugbears, the odd rudder servo mount angle and there was some play for the left rudder due to whatever fit issue there was.
I tried visualising the spatial gap with some blue tack or foam tape, and then attempted to fill the gap with kneaded metal epoxy. Didn't work, it won't stick.
Short of a bendy scope, I couldn't make out what's exactly causing this free play.
I minimised whatever free play now there was by making sure the servo wasn't able to rock sideways along the height axis, which helped some.

FenderBean

I know exactly the issues, the left T is 2.97mm and the right is 3.07mm which matches the servo drive unit at 3.07mm
From what David said about his and now you it would appear to be a manufacture issue

Auburn02

My Feedback: (1)

Maybe the left and right fin/rudder assemblies come out of different factories. Just like Twix.

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

After you talked about it I checked mine and the left has a little more play like yours. Will try and figure out a solution. I send a message to the factory on it also so they can try and change what they are doing.

FenderBean

you would think they would have one file to manufacture both ends but they could have two with some slight measurement issue. Thanks for the help

sysiek

My Feedback: (176)

This building forum looks like a competition between two of you guys, this is actually fun to watch, good job guys, I have that I’m going see them both flying in Kentucky

FenderBean

Not competing, but without anything to go by it helps.

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

between the two of us no build manual should be needed lol. Glad another good builder is putting it all on and he does videos.

got the other wing done yesterday. Time to move up onto other parts. Not sure if I’m going to use the new fuel tanks or just install my old ones. Nothing wrong with them.

sysiek

My Feedback: (176)

This f-22 it’s definitely on my list but for now I need to clean my hangar from other jets to make a room for this one

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

Chris,

Did you install heat shielding in the engine and pipe areas? Also is a 100 psi too much pressure for the nose and main struts.

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

no heat shielding needed in the back. Only thing I did do was take a spare piece of Fibreglass I had and stuck that under the turbine. Just to protect the airlines

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

100 psi is perfect for the gear

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

I placed three (3) layers of aluminum tape in the gap to reduce rudder movement. This solution seems to eliminate the excessive movement of the rudder.

simple solution to rudder

cycross

Nice! I think this is a good idea, especially if it is real metal tape and won't compress too much due to the pin force on it. I'll try this out. Thanks!

FenderBean

very little work today, I had a full day of other things getting in the way. I did switch gears a bit this evening and did the canopy open and close actuator. I simply removed the two tabs on the cross beam they installed for what I guess would have been an air cylinder, my kit was missing this but I planned to use my own setup. I added a 30 mm stroke Actuonix Linear servo, I have been using and selling these for a few years now. They are plug n play and work just like a regular servo and can be adjusted like servo via the radio. I went with the 210:1 gear ratio(18 lbs) since its a much higher torque but since it lifts real easy and not very heavy I may just use the 100:1 or even the 50:1. Lower ratio is faster but has less torque but the canopy has no force on the actuator once down a locked. The hinge needs a few mm removed from the rear part of the frame to allow for full extension, the amount open is very scale from the pictures I could find.
Sorry for the vertical picks, the jet was worked on while standing in the corner.
Oh and I will be removing the front air cylinder they glued to the canopy frame for a lock. I am going to use a 20mm stroke Linear actuator which very small, about the size of a micro servo.

Metal mount bracket, supplied with the actuator

Installed on cross beam

Actuonix 30mm Linear Actuator






BAM! on less valve and air leak to worry about!

FenderBean

Well today was another slow day the canopy install was a rough one, its hard to get the proper alignment to make the rear section clear while making the front align. When the installed bulkhead is off a hair it makes it much harder, but I got and in the pictures you will see two washers on the right side I used align the canopy. The linear servo works great and I am uploading a video going over the work so far.
I removed the stock air cylinder lock and will be using a second Actuonix 30mm stroke actuator for the lock but mine will be mounted to the nose instead of the canopy.
I have been putting off the motor install just going to be a lot of trial and error so I skipped on to some easier things.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gx2o...ature=youtu.be


This is the factory lock, I removed it and will add another Linear servo

Removed a small amount of material for clearance



PAIN in the but I spent all afternoon on four screws!

Closed

Open

All the required items for the nose steering

Completed, the factory had the light bracket on backwards scissors go aft by the way

FenderBean

Managed to get the motors installed, while not super hard but it takes some thought and based on your motor will be trial and error. I suggest watching the video explaining my method and if you have any questions let me know. Trying to explain what I did would take more than I would like to type.
Nose wheel is in as well, pretty simple I had to dremel some areas for clearance but nothing that shows when doors are closed.
I also made a small mount for the canopy lock actuator and its currently curing and once dry I will hysol the brass tube guides in the nose and canopy. Then the fun begins, the equipment and fuel system install!
Video is uploading on my youtube channel







Going to be different for each turbine, wider are the bottom


Johhny Five alive!!!!


Actuonix 30mm stroke actuator

cycross

Keith, this might be covered in your video but if it is not, is there a reason to mount the two JetsMunt engines in this orientation (opposite data cables instead of same side)? magnetic rpm interference concerns if any due to close engine proximity?

FenderBean

Cycross thats exactly the reason! mine need adjusting just a hair but they are close to where they need to be. Its in the video

FenderBean

Worked on the fuel tanks tonight, I went ahead and plugged the stock hole on the main tank. With a twin you need two pick ups, I would not feel comfortable using a T and I have no idea where to get one large enough.. The two saddles will be the main tanks and the center tank will feed in the saddle tanks. I was looking for a place to add the two vents which are for the taxi tank as well, still havent found a good spot yet, but once the tanks are done its one to the equipment, the fun stuff!!! The canopy lock is in I just need to glue in the brass tube on the canopy side for the pin. Cheers