Updated T-ONE Models 1/8.5 F-16 Build
#26
Thread Starter
So we did a range test and taxi test. The taxi test was particularly important as the electric brakes needed a curve to give me a gradation/proportional braking. I had to experiment with that some.
The K-70 G4 behaved well despite the high humidity and temperature. Sometimes turbine engines hack and cough under these conditions. The tires are solid rubber and the rolling resistance is very low so the plane will move right along with just idle thrust. Your brakes better be working. The instructions say the engine will idle lower as it gets some time on it.
People at the field liked the looks if that counts.
The wind picked up. It was a cross wind. While braking the jet wobbled a little side to side because of this wind. As the undercarriage is so narrow you risk a tip over. In general the F-16 performs very well in a cross wind. My previous 1:6 BVM was a solid performer in very bad cross winds but often tipped over while turning back from the end of the runway on landings. A rocket fin would come off and I would have to do the "walk of shame" to get it as it would not right itself. We are waiting for better conditions for the test fight, likely next week some time.
The ECU battery used 600 mA for the two starts and runs. The two receiver batteries about 200 mA each. The batteries are 2,100 mA rated so I could safely do 4 flights before a charge.
AEHaas
The K-70 G4 behaved well despite the high humidity and temperature. Sometimes turbine engines hack and cough under these conditions. The tires are solid rubber and the rolling resistance is very low so the plane will move right along with just idle thrust. Your brakes better be working. The instructions say the engine will idle lower as it gets some time on it.
People at the field liked the looks if that counts.
The wind picked up. It was a cross wind. While braking the jet wobbled a little side to side because of this wind. As the undercarriage is so narrow you risk a tip over. In general the F-16 performs very well in a cross wind. My previous 1:6 BVM was a solid performer in very bad cross winds but often tipped over while turning back from the end of the runway on landings. A rocket fin would come off and I would have to do the "walk of shame" to get it as it would not right itself. We are waiting for better conditions for the test fight, likely next week some time.
The ECU battery used 600 mA for the two starts and runs. The two receiver batteries about 200 mA each. The batteries are 2,100 mA rated so I could safely do 4 flights before a charge.
AEHaas
#27
Thread Starter
A little tool talk.
I used hex head sheet metal screws to hold the engine to the plywood rails for mounting. #8 I think. I always use wood or sheet metal screws as otherwise you would have to get a nut and bolt in there and that is harder to do. As you recall I bought an angled dental drill for $150 so I could drill the pilot holes in the confined space back in the fuselage. I needed a small 1/4” drive ratchet with low profile socket to sink the sheet metal screws. A “normal” 1/4 ratchet and socket would not fit and the ratchet made it nearly impossible to get the screw started. It would turn in some then turn out as the ratched resistance to release in the opposite direction was too high. Solution, the Roller Ratchet.
https://omegatec.com/rr40s-sp-revers...r-ratchet.aspx
You can get this small handled version of a 1/4 drive ratchet but more important is that the reverse resistance is about zero and the lock is toothless. There is around zero degrees of movement needed to lock from the back direction so you can get full function with the smallest throw. Small spindles with other tool ends are available but expensive. However, if you need this function it cannot be bettered.
https://omegatec.com/rrqc-hx3-16-rol...t-spindle.aspx
Below is a Craftman 8mm standard socket flanked by a Snap-On and Wera “short” standard socket. The Roller Ratchet is below these. Note that it has the 1/4” drive spindle but this can be removed and other tool tips that are very short can replace this. Flat, shortened ratchets cannot do nearly as well in the tightest as spaces.
AEHaas
I used hex head sheet metal screws to hold the engine to the plywood rails for mounting. #8 I think. I always use wood or sheet metal screws as otherwise you would have to get a nut and bolt in there and that is harder to do. As you recall I bought an angled dental drill for $150 so I could drill the pilot holes in the confined space back in the fuselage. I needed a small 1/4” drive ratchet with low profile socket to sink the sheet metal screws. A “normal” 1/4 ratchet and socket would not fit and the ratchet made it nearly impossible to get the screw started. It would turn in some then turn out as the ratched resistance to release in the opposite direction was too high. Solution, the Roller Ratchet.
https://omegatec.com/rr40s-sp-revers...r-ratchet.aspx
You can get this small handled version of a 1/4 drive ratchet but more important is that the reverse resistance is about zero and the lock is toothless. There is around zero degrees of movement needed to lock from the back direction so you can get full function with the smallest throw. Small spindles with other tool ends are available but expensive. However, if you need this function it cannot be bettered.
https://omegatec.com/rrqc-hx3-16-rol...t-spindle.aspx
Below is a Craftman 8mm standard socket flanked by a Snap-On and Wera “short” standard socket. The Roller Ratchet is below these. Note that it has the 1/4” drive spindle but this can be removed and other tool tips that are very short can replace this. Flat, shortened ratchets cannot do nearly as well in the tightest as spaces.
AEHaas
#29
Thread Starter
'Maiden flight was this AM. It went fairly well, but as always a few things showed up. A screw on the nose gear door servo arm prevented it from closing when hitting the frame of the nose gear. I made a slight modification when I got home. But why do these things not show up the other dozen times I opened and closed the door on the work bench???
I only needed a few clicks of left aileron and some up elevator for level flight. The gyro test was OK then I turned it off. I trimmed the take off laps with the gear down. Again just a few clicks here and there. I did not take the time to trim the landing flaps (actually flaperons) fully as I felt I should land. Everybody was telling me I was flying the whole time way too fast so I decided to land sooner rather than later. I needed a good amount of up elevator as the plane wanted to tilt down with full flaps. Before I attempted to land though I made sure I had good aileron control as flaperons can sometimes mess up flight control.
The landing was fine but not text book pretty. One issue was the plane leaned from side to side after touch down. I even managed to knock off a rocket fin - no big deal. But the side to side motion needs to be lessened. I had the same problem with the BVM L-39 and it was improved greatly by using stiffer springs in the landing gear. I was planning on putting in stiffer springs in this plane anyway. The plane, like so many F-16s, squats on the main gear and gives the plane a nose up position when sitting on the ground. The plane should be flat, not have a positive angle of attack.
After trimming fully I will try some aerobatics on the next flight or two. So far so good and I am liking the plane very much.
AEHaas
I only needed a few clicks of left aileron and some up elevator for level flight. The gyro test was OK then I turned it off. I trimmed the take off laps with the gear down. Again just a few clicks here and there. I did not take the time to trim the landing flaps (actually flaperons) fully as I felt I should land. Everybody was telling me I was flying the whole time way too fast so I decided to land sooner rather than later. I needed a good amount of up elevator as the plane wanted to tilt down with full flaps. Before I attempted to land though I made sure I had good aileron control as flaperons can sometimes mess up flight control.
The landing was fine but not text book pretty. One issue was the plane leaned from side to side after touch down. I even managed to knock off a rocket fin - no big deal. But the side to side motion needs to be lessened. I had the same problem with the BVM L-39 and it was improved greatly by using stiffer springs in the landing gear. I was planning on putting in stiffer springs in this plane anyway. The plane, like so many F-16s, squats on the main gear and gives the plane a nose up position when sitting on the ground. The plane should be flat, not have a positive angle of attack.
After trimming fully I will try some aerobatics on the next flight or two. So far so good and I am liking the plane very much.
AEHaas
#33
Thread Starter
'Handles nice and easy to land. I especially like that I can just put it in the truck fully assembled and ready to fly. The only thing that I did as a modification was to increase the strength of the springs in the main gear. For one I do not like the tail to be lower than the front. It is not supposed to be that way. Also, after touching down, landing, the plane can wobble side to side if you are not perfectly straight the whole time you are stopping. I have had this issue on other narrow gear planes as well. The fix is stiffer springs.
AEHaas
AEHaas
#34
Join Date: Dec 2014
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'Handles nice and easy to land. I especially like that I can just put it in the truck fully assembled and ready to fly. The only thing that I did as a modification was to increase the strength of the springs in the main gear. For one I do not like the tail to be lower than the front. It is not supposed to be that way. Also, after touching down, landing, the plane can wobble side to side if you are not perfectly straight the whole time you are stopping. I have had this issue on other narrow gear planes as well. The fix is stiffer springs.
AEHaas
AEHaas
Did you buy springs online? Or something from local hardware store?
#36
My Feedback: (57)
I think I used these cut to fit at the exact length so there was no compression (or maybe slight) when the gear was unloaded:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#37
Great thread AEHaas! I am planning to buy a PNP version and trying to choose between Thunderbird or Dutch Solo scheme. Any issues with visibility/orientation with Dutch color scheme?
#39
My Feedback: (41)
I cannot believe anyone would buy one of these models. I had one which my builder crashed on the Maiden flight so I never got to fly it. He suggested I get another one which I thought might be an excellent idea.
Dirk had other ideas; he wants me, and I'm guessing others, to pay 100% upfront with no defined delivery date, for a new model. Sorry but I'm not going there; Thomas at Tomahawk taught me the error of my ways about paying for a model, not yet built, overseas so you have none of the USA CC protections on fraudulent charges and you are basically screwed. Maybe the model shows up, maybe it doesn't. WHEN does it show up?
I talked to Dirk about my concerns, offering to give him a deposit. He declined, I told him having been taught a lesson by Thomas at Tomahawk, I would not pay 100% in advance. His reply "I've never screwed anyone in my life, especially friends" To which I replied "you may know that, but I don't".
My builder thinks that T-One needs a new USA distributor, I'm inclined to agree.....
Dirk had other ideas; he wants me, and I'm guessing others, to pay 100% upfront with no defined delivery date, for a new model. Sorry but I'm not going there; Thomas at Tomahawk taught me the error of my ways about paying for a model, not yet built, overseas so you have none of the USA CC protections on fraudulent charges and you are basically screwed. Maybe the model shows up, maybe it doesn't. WHEN does it show up?
I talked to Dirk about my concerns, offering to give him a deposit. He declined, I told him having been taught a lesson by Thomas at Tomahawk, I would not pay 100% in advance. His reply "I've never screwed anyone in my life, especially friends" To which I replied "you may know that, but I don't".
My builder thinks that T-One needs a new USA distributor, I'm inclined to agree.....
Last edited by Zeeb; 06-13-2021 at 04:43 PM.
#41
Lets get the facts straight. You called and asked how long it would take to get a T-1, I told you it would take only "3-4 weeks" as you asked for a basic scheme. I gave you a time frame for shipping. You also said you wanted to give a deposit and the final payment "when it is delivered", that is not happening. You said you got screwed out of $5500.00 from Tomahawk guys, sorry for your loss. but I am not Tomahawk. I have 5,418 other customer orders that were not screwed over, NOT ONE! I am one guy running this company and don't have time to chase payments when an order is only going to take a few weeks to fill. If you ordered a Skymaster that takes 6 months +/- to build, I would take a deposit, when it is something that ships right away or within a few weeks, I don't take deposits. This is a free Country and I can run my business the way I like as well as you can spend your money how and where you like. I find it sad that a grown man has to go on-line to cry about it when he doesn't get his way. Sheesh...
Last edited by flejter1; 06-13-2021 at 06:46 PM.
#42
My Feedback: (5)
I support of Dirk -
I have purchased two T-1 planes from Dirk and in both cases paid 100% upfront and received everything in the timeframe and condition Dirk promised. Additionally have purchased 4 Kingtech turbines and numerous parts, oil, etc from him. I have also purchased planes from Skymaster, and suffered through delays and lesser quality than T-1. Everyone is free to buy whatever they want and from whoever they want. But I would not hesitate to buy another jet from Dirk knowing that it requires 100% upfront payment. Dirk and Barry are not Walmart. They can't be expected to have the funds to cover the costs of all the planes they order and then run the risk of someone saying "I changed my mind".
Jim
I have purchased two T-1 planes from Dirk and in both cases paid 100% upfront and received everything in the timeframe and condition Dirk promised. Additionally have purchased 4 Kingtech turbines and numerous parts, oil, etc from him. I have also purchased planes from Skymaster, and suffered through delays and lesser quality than T-1. Everyone is free to buy whatever they want and from whoever they want. But I would not hesitate to buy another jet from Dirk knowing that it requires 100% upfront payment. Dirk and Barry are not Walmart. They can't be expected to have the funds to cover the costs of all the planes they order and then run the risk of someone saying "I changed my mind".
Jim
#43
My Feedback: (9)
Zeeb back when T1 had a long waiting list people would want refunds because of the wait and Dirk refunded no questions asked. Really not sure why you are on here crying like this? If you don't want to buy a plane from Dirk you can always go buy one from some one else its a free country.
#48
Thread Starter
#49
Frank
#50
T-One Models F-16 12s EDF conversion from turbine
I just finished converting a T-one F-16 from turbine to EDF and she rocks. I had seen some folks mentioning doing the conversion but no videos out there. Well here's one. Enjoy!