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Updated T-ONE Models 1/8.5 F-16 Build

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Updated T-ONE Models 1/8.5 F-16 Build

Old 07-31-2020, 03:10 PM
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aehaas
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Default Updated T-ONE Models 1/8.5 F-16 Build



I purchased the T-ONE MODELS 1/8.5 F-16 some months back and just received it, $1,980.00. I ordered the following upgrades:

Installed lighting kit $190.00
Installed gear/doors and 3 servos $160.00
Wing tip missile set painted $65.00
I ordered the ACCUTORQ 110SG micro premium HV servos at Dirk’s suggestion for all surfaces.
Source: https://pacificrcjets.com/collection...19489290289248
I saw one recently at our club and thought it would be very convenient as it can fit into my Lincoln Navigator fully assembled. It has electric gear, brakes, gear doors and flies well. Another personal goal was to make it lighter and better balanced. Here is an older thread but there have been some updates since then that I will go over as I build the model: The new T1 models F16 build thread

Unpacking the model revealed a well padded and packaged carton. I was impressed with the initial fit and finish and I like the paint job. It is an orange peel. I like it. I have the KingTech K-70G4 in hand already. People have used the K-85 but it seems just too much and heavier unnecessarily. The K-70 will give me a 1:1 power to weight ratio. Clearly a 60N turbine would work if you are not a power nut as so many of us...

I had some correspondence with Dirk at Pacific RC before ordering the model:

“Our Demo F-16 weighs in at 17.29lbs RTF with a K-85, full UAT and 1/4 tank of fuel using Spektrum gear.”

Do the lights and gear controller require a separate 7.4V lipo? I see that others have done it this way. I usually run a 3s LiFe engine battery and two 2s LiFe receiver batteries. It would be nice if the light and gear controller will run off one of the 2s LiFe batteries. Your demo model weighs in at 17.3 lbs - does it have the lights and an extra LiPo battery included there? “The F-16 comes with the Xicoy LG15 controller and the T-One light controller can handle up to a 3S LIFE battery.”

Are the electric brakes proportional? If not, is there a way, a different controller you recommend, to accomplish this? I like to land with the brakes on about half way then go to full braking after I fully touch down. “The LG15 Xicoy controller has proportional braking and has gyro assisted braking and steering and is fully adjustable.”

Is the kevlar fuel cell a single central tank or two side cells? “1 single kevlar fuel tank.”

The K70G2 is 5 oz. less weight than the K85G2. It also burns less fuel. What are your thoughts about using either engine? Maybe I should give you a call on this? “The K70 is plenty of power for the F-16 but most guys want over powered jets. You will find your self flying mostly at half throttle with a K85. If you fly off grass you may want to stay with the K85, if you fly off pavement the 70 is more than enough power.”

Can the lights be put on a separate channel and do the landing gear lights only come on with the gear is down? “Yes, the lights can be put on a switch and the landing light only comes on when the gear are down.”

We had some initial problems: The lighting kit was not installed as ordered nor were the parts included, no lights nor controller. The gear door servos were not installed nor were the servos/hardware included. There was no cockpit. I was told there were some new people at the factory and with the virus maybe things were a little messed up. Dirk offered to have another model made over the next three weeks as a rush job. ‘Not sure I want a rush job. Plus it would be another week for shipping. Then there are the inevitable delays from the Virus and the like. I feared the delays would result in the model being very delayed and the flying season over here before I could test fly the new F-16. (the fall and winter are dry here and the field is often closed for turbine engines because of high fire indexes). Dirk said that the lights are factory installed after the model is complete. I figured that I could do it myself when he sends me the parts, same for the gear door servos - should be easy enough.

So I started the build. I'll get some pictures out when I can.

AEHaas

Old 07-31-2020, 03:35 PM
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Since I had plenty of flight surface servos I used one for the main gear doors. I underline the word ONE. I connected both doors to a single servo arm. Note it is exactly in line with both connecting rods. This makes them evenly move the doors. I adjusted the length of the arms to evenly close the doors. If they are off by a millimeter or two with the doors open you would not see the difference. Note that I have not yet fastened all the nuts/screws as I am done for the night - I’ll finish it up tomorrow.

AEHaas



Old 07-31-2020, 04:35 PM
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Reminds me of my Yellow Aircraft F-16C kit. What a pain in the rear to get the gear doors to function correctly. Dynamax fan with an OS 91. It was a cool jet! One day I will get one again. The Pacific jet looks very similar to the YA.
Old 08-06-2020, 03:28 AM
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gunradd
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If you need anything feel free to reach out to me. Its a good flying bird.
Old 08-09-2020, 07:24 AM
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Thanks for the assistant offer.

I finished the main gear doors and moved into the front gear compartment. The nose gear door was straightforward. The landing gear all seem to be very robust and nearly scale looking. I am pleased with the hardware.

Next was the steering servo. At this point I realized that all the major servo openings are non standard. They are around 15mm by 35mm. A standard servo will not fit nor will a micro or mini. You must use the servos that T-ONE sells, the 220SG servos for the steering and all flight surfaces. I had to order these servos. They seem very strong and lightweight for the size. They should servo me well. For the time being I put an original JR 3711 HV servo into the steering mount. It was a little undersized for the opening but I made it work.

Four wood screws hold the nose gear mechanism onto the wood frame members. It is very easy to get the unit out for servicing if needed, good feature.

AEHaas




Old 08-09-2020, 11:27 AM
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I was able to move the K-70G4 turbine back several inches allowing me to place the back of the fuel cell at the CG point. This will make for better balance as fuel is consumed. The engine mounting wooden rails had to be cut out some as the fuel cell would otherwise sit too high. The engine hatch could not be seated in place over it. The whole fuel cell now sits lower. This is also better balance for the plane as it would be less top heavy.

The space in front of the fuel cell allows for the mounting of my AR12310T Spektrum receiver as well as the engine ECU. There is room for the Spektrum AS3000 AS3X Flight Stabilization Module. It weighs in at 3 gm. In front of those are the air trap and fuel pump.





I eliminated the forward floor of the canopy compartment. The rear floor will be for batteries. Most have mounted their air trap and pump on this floor but mine are even behind this area.




The light and gear controllers will be behind the CG in the wing root part of the fuselage. Everything is designed for ease of access and repair and adjustments. It does not seem this way yet but follow along and you will see the light.

I am also trying to make the model as light as possible by shortening all wires. A clue is to see what I did on my T-38: The Skymaster Northrop T-38 Talon Project of 2019

AEHaas
Old 08-10-2020, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by aehaas View Post
I was able to move the K-70G4 turbine back several inches allowing me to place the back of the fuel cell at the CG point. This will make for better balance as fuel is consumed. The engine mounting wooden rails had to be cut out some as the fuel cell would otherwise sit too high. The engine hatch could not be seated in place over it. The whole fuel cell now sits lower. This is also better balance for the plane as it would be less top heavy.

The space in front of the fuel cell allows for the mounting of my AR12310T Spektrum receiver as well as the engine ECU. There is room for the Spektrum AS3000 AS3X Flight Stabilization Module. It weighs in at 3 gm. In front of those are the air trap and fuel pump.





I eliminated the forward floor of the canopy compartment. The rear floor will be for batteries. Most have mounted their air trap and pump on this floor but mine are even behind this area.




The light and gear controllers will be behind the CG in the wing root part of the fuselage. Everything is designed for ease of access and repair and adjustments. It does not seem this way yet but follow along and you will see the light.

I am also trying to make the model as light as possible by shortening all wires. A clue is to see what I did on my T-38: The Skymaster Northrop T-38 Talon Project of 2019

AEHaas
Good instalation mods. How did you bolt the K-70 to the mounting rails as the engine mount is very difficult to get to as it is inside the rear fusellage.

Thanks
Old 08-10-2020, 12:22 PM
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aehaas
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"Good instalation mods. How did you bolt the K-70 to the mounting rails as the engine mount is very difficult to get to as it is inside the rear fusellage."

I have not figured out how to make the screw holes yet but I will. Several ideas are being considered.
Old 08-10-2020, 01:50 PM
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Nice work! This plane comes out nose heavy so it’s nice to see how you moved it all back. Should make for a good flyer.
Old 08-11-2020, 12:20 PM
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Here is the Xicoy gear/brake controller mounted just behind the CG in the left wing root. I made a tray such that the controller can slide out after the single screw at the engine mount board is removed:



Note that it is easy to remove the screw, slide the controller out and access all connections and the display. Once all is tuned up then slide it back into position and the single screw secures it solid. I similarly mounted the air trap and the engine fuel pump. They both slide into the side and then a single screw secures each one in place. I always like things to be as easy as possible to service.



No wasting of popsicle sticks.

Next I will show you a new tool for drilling in tight spaces. You are going to love this one !

AEHaas
Old 08-11-2020, 03:18 PM
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aehaas
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Here is a picture showing some of the #60 drill bit holes I made in the underside to allow for spilled fuel to drain. You can drill some of them at hidden locations but others are dependent on where there are formers and high spots. The holes must be at the lowest spots to be useful. I do this on all my models to help with spilled fuel and misstarts.



I installed the Accutorq 220SG mini HV servos into the vertical fin and for the elevators. They are the correct size and installation was uncomplicated.

Here is my new tool, a right angled dental drill:



I practiced on some hardwood drilling at a relatively slow speed so as not to heat up the drill bit. The motor has excellent torque. The unit uses Contra Angle bits that have a specific termination for securing onto the tool. The bits are 2.3mm but can have all sorts of terminations from burs to drills. You can get different bit lengths as well. Here is where I ordered the unit and bits:

Amazon Amazon

https://www.iqimplantsusa.com/produc...nal-irrigation

Less expensive bits can be purchased from overseas but who knows how long it would take to obtain them???

I also ordered some of these but again, who knows when they will arrive:
Amazon Amazon

I am going to also order some mandrels to hold sanding disks and cutting wheels. It is basically as my Dremel tool with the right angle attachment but can fit into far smaller spaces. This tool is a game changer...

AEHaas

Last edited by aehaas; 08-11-2020 at 03:25 PM.
Old 08-11-2020, 04:54 PM
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AEhaas, wouldn’t happen to have a link on the right angle dentist tool?
Old 08-11-2020, 04:59 PM
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aehaas
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Amazon Amazon
Amazon Amazon
https://www.iqimplantsusa.com/produc...nal-irrigation

Less expensive bits can be purchased from overseas but who knows how long it would take to obtain them???

I also ordered some of these but again, who knows when they will arrive:
Amazon Amazon
Amazon Amazon
I am going to also order some mandrels to hold sanding disks and cutting wheels. It is basically as my Dremel tool with the right angle attachment but can fit into far smaller spaces. This tool is a game changer...
Old 08-12-2020, 02:43 AM
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Dansy
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Originally Posted by aehaas View Post
Amazon Amazon
https://www.iqimplantsusa.com/produc...nal-irrigation

Less expensive bits can be purchased from overseas but who knows how long it would take to obtain them???

I also ordered some of these but again, who knows when they will arrive:
Amazon Amazon
I am going to also order some mandrels to hold sanding disks and cutting wheels. It is basically as my Dremel tool with the right angle attachment but can fit into far smaller spaces. This tool is a game changer...
Thank you...I will get this....
Old 08-14-2020, 01:57 PM
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aehaas
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Quality metal servo arms are provided as well as a ball end that protrudes out of the fuselage to actuate the ailerons. I have not seen this before but there is no servo nor horns needed on the wing itself. Note that the servo arm needs to be cut short to fit the space and the ball needs to be located at the inner most position.



Below is a view from the back of the fuselage. I put a carbon fiber tube down the right side to act as a conduit for the servo wires coming from the tail surfaces. The tail servos are exposed to heat from the tail pipe so I covered them with aluminum foil. The leads are all covered with foil as well until they enter the carbon fiber tube. You can see the fuselage mounted aileron servos.





AEHaas
Old 08-18-2020, 02:20 PM
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They finally sent the “light kit”. Conclusion: If you want the lights on your plane you MUST order them installed as you cannot install them afterwards in my opinion.

You can install the nose gear landing and afterburner light. But the others are just button lights, no way to tell what color they are. Note: you cannot just put a small voltage on a diode, you will instantly burn them out. You must have current limiting as provided by light controllers. In the provided “kit” there are LED modules but they have flanges. There is no way to tell what is negative and what connection is positive. The button lights cannot just fit in a hole - it must be much bigger to fit the flanges. Then you need wiring. They provide a ball of wire but no connectors. You are on your own. Can you make servo extensions? Most people cannot and I will admit it is Very Difficult to do correctly.








AEHaas

Old 08-18-2020, 02:34 PM
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Connections for the gear motors and brakes.

The wires had two connector terminations. The Xicoy controller needs a regular servo wire connector with the negative and positive wires on the outermost positions, no wire in the middle hole. For me easy enough as I can make servo connectors. For many, a very difficult task to do correctly. Do not attempt this, get help from an expert. Also, as my Xicoy controller was mounted adjacent to the main gear the wires were cut very short and new, normal, servo connectors were installed. There are no instructions to help you but Dirk of Pacific RC was very informative to let me know what actually had to be done. You need his help with this model if you want to do most of the work yourself.





AEHaas
Old 08-22-2020, 04:05 AM
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I will put up more pictures of the finished installations later but this AM I put the model on the Xicoy scale. The air trap is full and there is about 5 percent fuel in the main fuel cell. The model is balanced at 160mm as specified. The batteries are all up front away from the engine, cool and easy to get to. I still have to make the Velcro mounts and appropriate connectors. My goal in this build was to have the model more balanced with the fuel distribution, to shed some weight and to make access easy to all components.




Dirk’s demo model weighed in at 17.3 lbs. Another model on the old thread was at 16.3 lbs. Mine weighs in at 15.2 lbs. I am using the KingTech K-70 G4 that I believe puts out 15.5 lbs of thrust. As the light kit was delivered late and the installations seem questionable I did not install it. That saved some weight. Lights on a smaller model have less impact to the observer so I will probably not miss them. The K-85 would have added another 5 oz. and the light kit a few more. But I still would have gotten under 16 lbs. My feeling is that this K-70 on my lighter plane will go about as fast as the heavier plane with the K-85.





I ended up using some newly acquired modeling tools on this build. I will go over them later.

AEHaas
Old 08-22-2020, 11:35 AM
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Further update from this afternoon. We programmed the turbine ECU and primed the engine. The K-70 G4 started right up and ran twice. We checked for proper failsafe operation. It was particularly rewarding as it was around 89 F with 100 percent humidity in a light drizzle. I flew my BVM Bandit once in a sudden black-out downpour thunderstorm so it was ideal flying conditions for me. There is a possible hurricane that may come right over my house on the west coast of Florida next week. It would be a good day for a test flight.

Another plus - and I bought this model because I could put it into my Lincoln Navigator fully assembled. This way I could take it out, fuel it up, plug in the batteries and go fly. What's easier than that. No assembly, no wires to hook up, no cradle, no air pump.




The model measures 47" across from one missile fin to the other.

A E Haas
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Old 08-24-2020, 05:36 AM
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Nice lightweight build! For battery access, does the nose cone come off on this plane or is the cockpit/canopy an easily removable hatch?

Originally Posted by aehaas View Post
Connections for the gear motors and brakes.

The wires had two connector terminations. The Xicoy controller needs a regular servo wire connector with the negative and positive wires on the outermost positions, no wire in the middle hole. For me easy enough as I can make servo connectors. For many, a very difficult task to do correctly. Do not attempt this, get help from an expert.
I'm comfortable making connectors as well so that's not a problem, but I'm curious do those 2 connector ends use the same pins as the standard 3 connector ends we're all familiar with? If so you could have just released the pins from the 2-pin ends and popped them into standard ends.
Old 08-24-2020, 08:32 AM
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That’s all I did. I released the pins and stuck them into the other ones. Took about 1 entire minute lol.

the nose cone is removable but nothing goes up their since it needs the CG back. The canopy also is removable along with engines hatch.
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Old 08-24-2020, 12:55 PM
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Some details:
I take the bottom label off batteries, sand the battery with 320 sand paper then stick on the Velcro. It lasts longer, sticks better.



The 2 LiFe 2S 2100 receiver batteries and the 1 LiFe 3S 2100 turbine battery are in the canopy section. Velcro holds them in place and straps keep them from falling off the mounting planks. They can all be moved back and forth as needed as I fly and trim the plane. The 3S battery is for the turbine ECU and a separate connector goes to the Xicoy gear controller to operate the gear. The balance leads are long and tucked into the nose cone. All connector ends are different so they can not be mis-connected.



The red and green side scoop lights up front were clear. I painted them with Sharpie markers from the inside then added a reflective surface as a backing. This will make them seem to glow in the sunlight. I did not install the light kit.

AEHaas




Old 08-24-2020, 01:36 PM
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The engine compartment:



Left front is the ECU, I added a 3 inch servo extension just sitting there so I can connect the ECU Ground Support Screen. The receiver on-off switch is located at the edge of this compartment.


Right front is the back of the Spektrum 12 channel receiver with the servo leads fully exposed and easy to get to.


Lower left is the Xicoy gear controller near the engine starter motor. The fuel cutoff valve is here as well.


The leads from the gear and brakes are only about 12 inches long at most as I cut short the otherwise ? 3 foot long wires. That is why I had to put on new connectors. Another weight saver was the use of PowerBox cables. The insulation is paper thin while the wire gauge is thicker. They are much lighter than the usual extensions. Also, I saved maybe 20 feet of servo wire length in mounting the receiver just in front of the fuel cell instead of in the nose as most would do. I always like to mount receivers as far back as possible and practical. There is less current loss too with the shorter wires. The wires are the exact length with minimal slack. All servo wires were made from scratch to length as needed, no more no less. On top of the fuel cell is the fuel filler line. I would guess the majority of weight savings on this plane was from the proper length and use of servo wires. Test it for yourself. Take 20 feet of that thick twisted, heavy insulation servo wire and weight it. You will be shocked.

AEHaas
Old 08-24-2020, 02:21 PM
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gunradd
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Yes I love power box wire! Best servo wire. Your placement of components has been perfect. I also like you have a K70. The 85 is just to much. Keep going! You will be done soon.
Old 08-24-2020, 04:02 PM
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The receiver on-off switch and fuel cutoff valve are in the engine compartment. It is the only lid that needs to be removed between flights at the field. At the end of the day I have to open the canopy compartment to disconnect the batteries and later to charge them in place at home. I also have an operating pitot tube up front. There is a G-force module as well in this plane.




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