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Skymaster F-14 Jolly Roger

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Skymaster F-14 Jolly Roger

Old 01-23-2021, 11:30 AM
  #26  
Skunkwrks
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Great job getting everything programmed, I like the slats and flaps and didn't realize the wing spoiler acts like ailerons along with the elevators.
Very realistic, what size turbine/s are you using for her. Nice work
Old 01-23-2021, 02:46 PM
  #27  
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Twin Swiwin 190’s
CB 400 + Cortex Pro
Old 01-23-2021, 02:54 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Skunkwrks View Post
Great job getting everything programmed, I like the slats and flaps and didn't realize the wing spoiler acts like ailerons along with the elevators.
Very realistic, what size turbine/s are you using for her. Nice work
Yes theyíre roll spoilers and Iíve made a mix to simulate DLC (direct lift control)....so my slider to the midpoint detent will give me just speed brakes, and then a proportional mixing of both spoilers extending upwards as I move the slider towards full. Should make for some pretty cool approaches once Iíve got some flights under my belt 🙂
Old 01-23-2021, 05:28 PM
  #29  
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When I've watched TopGun I noticed this when they did the barrel-roll you can see the spoiler come up and the elevator also act like an aileron for turning.
Those 190 Swiwin's will have good power to weight ratio.
Never seen a 400 completely filled up , I'm using a 210 on my Viper and the socket outlets get eating up quickly!
Old 01-23-2021, 05:34 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Skunkwrks View Post
When I've watched TopGun I noticed this when they did the barrel-roll you can see the spoiler come up and the elevator also act like an aileron for turning.
Those 190 Swiwin's will have good power to weight ratio.
Never seen a 400 completely filled up , I'm using a 210 on my Viper and the socket outlets get eating up quickly!
Ya itís insane how a jet like this can chew through the output slots. I bought a PB Royal and great piece of kit. But the UDI 16 protocol with Jeti limited us to 16 channels. Itís was a real pain trying to work around that. So I decided to just bite the bullet and get the CB 400. 24 channels and 24 slots. And can you believe we still needed an external sequencer to give even more slots.....lol 😂
Old 01-23-2021, 05:47 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by flyloose View Post
Ya itís insane how a jet like this can chew through the output slots. I bought a PB Royal and great piece of kit. But the UDI 16 protocol with Jeti limited us to 16 channels. Itís was a real pain trying to work around that. So I decided to just bite the bullet and get the CB 400. 24 channels and 24 slots. And can you believe we still needed an external sequencer to give even more slots.....lol 😂
I believe you could add receiver in Exbus for even more servo, I'm guessing if a guy uses air retracts then you would need a separate servo for each brake and on for steering.

I'm using a GS200 electron control so it does a lot of the extra works the transmitter plus ABS brake setup for keeping the plane straight and turning with the help of brake to pivot the plane.

Like the air brake between the verticals, it will help to stabilize and slow down the landing speed.

Old 01-23-2021, 05:54 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by flyloose View Post
Ya itís insane how a jet like this can chew through the output slots. I bought a PB Royal and great piece of kit. But the UDI 16 protocol with Jeti limited us to 16 channels. Itís was a real pain trying to work around that. So I decided to just bite the bullet and get the CB 400. 24 channels and 24 slots. And can you believe we still needed an external sequencer to give even more slots.....lol 😂
I believe you could add receiver in Exbus for even more servo, I'm guessing if a guy uses air retracts then you would need a separate servo for each brake and on for steering.

I'm using a GS200 electron control so it does a lot of the extra works the transmitter plus ABS brake setup for keeping the plane straight and turning with the help of brake to pivot the plane.

Like the air brake between the verticals, it will help to stabilize and slow down the landing speed.


Old 01-23-2021, 08:59 PM
  #33  
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Default Pitot/AOA/TAT Probes

Some little added details that add to the jet: scale probes from the Little Jet Company in the UK (Alex)...
These are magnetic and can be removed for transport if required...





Old 01-24-2021, 05:03 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by flyloose View Post
Here’s a short video a friend took as he worked on mine....originally we were going to do the rudder linkages external....but I was happy that he was able to do them internal. A few more weeks before she’s all done ✅


https://youtu.be/ASo2zpIL5Ls
Originally Posted by Skunkwrks View Post
I believe you could add receiver in Exbus for even more servo, I'm guessing if a guy uses air retracts then you would need a separate servo for each brake and on for steering.

I'm using a GS200 electron control so it does a lot of the extra works the transmitter plus ABS brake setup for keeping the plane straight and turning with the help of brake to pivot the plane.

Like the air brake between the verticals, it will help to stabilize and slow down the landing speed.
Approach speed won’t be affected by airbrake amigo, but the additional drag will require you to keep your throttle spooled up slightly. If you have to wave off the approach, the engine response time will be shortened. Think P70 versus literally any engine currently manufactured.

Keep plugging away it’s gonna look awesome zipping past.
Old 01-25-2021, 03:46 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by yeahbaby View Post
Approach speed wonít be affected by airbrake amigo, but the additional drag will require you to keep your throttle spooled up slightly. If you have to wave off the approach, the engine response time will be shortened. Think P70 versus literally any engine currently manufactured.

Keep plugging away itís gonna look awesome zipping past.
Thanks Buck
Old 02-23-2021, 03:57 AM
  #36  
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Work continues... after lots of effort and i guess 12-15 hours of work, i nailed the rudders. I had to cut out the hinges and locate them in the right position to get the right movement.

This concludes the moving panels (wings, elevators, rudders are all working now.

Next - the cockpit. In order to place the powerbox, Receivers, UATs, etc. I need to see the clearance, therefore I want to complete the cockpit. As Fenderbin mentioned, it's a shame that a $300 cockpit has to be totally redone.
The Dremel became my best friend in the last few days :-(

Now tell me - how this rear cockpit should go in to this fuselage without butchering it?




Old 02-23-2021, 07:42 AM
  #37  
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Worst part of the build for me was the cockpit, I think i ended up with 8 separate pieces with various mounts to with screws. Was horrible and the cost of that cockpit for the quality you get is BS
Old 02-26-2021, 10:18 AM
  #38  
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You only need 2 tools to install a SM cockpit....a chainsaw and an axe. Im building a T33 and have spent hours on repairing ****ty engineering. Never again!

Last edited by tp777fo; 02-26-2021 at 10:59 AM.
Old 02-26-2021, 11:59 AM
  #39  
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Here's a vid of mine and how the builder setup the cockpits for removal....

Old 07-03-2021, 01:33 AM
  #40  
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Back to work after a while. Preparing the fuel system, and I have a question re the fuel lines order.

The original design suggests connecting the UATs L+R to the Front, and the Front to the Mains L+R. I see two issues here:
1. While refueling, first one to be full is the front, and then fuel flows to both mains.
Assuming it will never be exactly the same flow rate, as the first one of the mains gets full, and fuel gets out from the vent, the other one will never get full.
2. While engines are running, fuel flows from the mains to the front.
Again, assuming it will never be exactly the same flow rate, as the first one of the mains gets empty, it is easier to sip air so remainder fuel in the other main will become unusable.

This is my understanding, correct me if I'm wrong.

I thought about changing the lines as in the second chart, connecting the UATs to the Mains, and then to the front.
That way:

1. While refueling, both mains will get full before the fuel will go to the front, and only after the front is full, the overflow will go to the vents.
2. While engines are running, the front tank will get empty first, and then each engine can use all the fuel in the mains.

WDYT?



Old 07-03-2021, 02:32 AM
  #41  
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I think your understanding regarding sipping air and unuseable fuel is incorrect. My buddy had 200 flights on his configured that way and had no issues. I decided to go against the SM recommended method and have your second option .....my reasoning for that was two fold. First off by having both side tanks draw from the forward tank first, itís burning fuel towards the ideal CG POINT for landing (not a huge consideration but anyway)....Secondly, it allows one to see how much fuel is remaining after a flight as the forward tank is not visible....

fueling.....I still havenít flown mine as my paved runway is still not available to use....but for fueling the sequence is: fill the first side tank....then fill the other and keep going till it over flows, which occurs after the forward tank is full. Thatís how we set it up but there are even more exotic variations one can go with. Good luck
Old 07-20-2021, 05:56 AM
  #42  
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Don't over think it, I have the first picture setup and never had a saddle tank empty before the other. I made sure each line and clunk lines are cut to the same length for equal pressures
The main reason for not using the second setup is the lack of a true clunk movement in the saddle tanks which could lead to a possible clunk out of fuel condition. The CG shift is not an issue, all the gear goes forward when up and shifts aft when lowered for landing. Just my two cents, I have had my F-14 since 2016 and not issues in this department. The only issues I have had actually happened this past week at KY Jets, the gyro I finally added almost cost me the jet( user error) Then when I taxied in the wings would not sweep back, I have the old controller version and I guess it burned up. I had already bought the new versions that plug in like a normal servo just had not installed them yet, it requires rebalance since I get to dump the 3 cell 11.1V ion battery in the nose.

Last edited by FenderBean; 07-20-2021 at 06:02 AM.
Old 07-20-2021, 06:08 AM
  #43  
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Thank you Keith, I will go with the original, and finally will attach the nose section to the main fuselage.
Old 07-20-2021, 06:35 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by drorso View Post
Thank you Keith, I will go with the original, and finally will attach the nose section to the main fuselage.
No wrong answer really I I have seen people do the three tanks in series and parallel without issue. The above is just the logic I used and it keeps pump pressures down as low as possible.
Old 07-20-2021, 06:42 AM
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I did the same in other jets like the Panther, connecting the three tanks in series. It works great. The F-14 is my first twin turbines jet, so not sure. I think option 2 is good, but the lines becomes too long.

As my expert friend Lior said, they (SM) should have provided the front tank divided to 2 separate tanks, thus each turbine gets it's own fuel system.

Oh well, we'll go with what we have....
Old 07-20-2021, 07:11 AM
  #46  
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just make sure all of the lines for the two rear tanks are the same length, inside and out to hopefully have them draw down at the same rate.
Old 07-20-2021, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by patf View Post
just make sure all of the lines for the two rear tanks are the same length, inside and out to hopefully have them draw down at the same rate.
Will do. I hate the idea of getting back there once it is all assembled. No access at all to all these fuel lines. Maybe even doing a full cycle of fueling and draining before final assembly.
Old 07-22-2021, 09:52 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by drorso View Post
I did the same in other jets like the Panther, connecting the three tanks in series. It works great. The F-14 is my first twin turbines jet, so not sure. I think option 2 is good, but the lines becomes too long.

As my expert friend Lior said, they (SM) should have provided the front tank divided to 2 separate tanks, thus each turbine gets it's own fuel system.

Oh well, we'll go with what we have....
In mine I cut the front tank in two and created a baffle which effectively splits the tank in 2 parts, to keep the clunks away from each other. The two areas do communicate and fuel flows between the two at a somewhat slow rate, to keep the levels balanced as much as possible
Worked well so far, but haven't had the chance to put many flights on it yet unfortunately
Old 07-22-2021, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mauryr View Post
In mine I cut the front tank in two and created a baffle which effectively splits the tank in 2 parts, to keep the clunks away from each other. The two areas do communicate and fuel flows between the two at a somewhat slow rate, to keep the levels balanced as much as possible
Worked well so far, but haven't had the chance to put many flights on it yet unfortunately
Can you provide more details and possibly pictures how to cut it and create the baffle?
Old 07-22-2021, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by drorso View Post
Can you provide more details and possibly pictures how to cut it and create the baffle?
Unfortunately I don't seem to have any pictures of my own work. I got my inspiration from the work of Richard Muller, who posted pics of a similar setup here on RCU. His was an F18 maybe, can't really remember.
Anyways, the process is simple:
1) cut the tank parallel to the direction of the clunk lines, in the very middle
2) laminate on one side with glass fiber and a little bit of carbon reinforcement (I used a few cross strands of carbon tow
3) cut a few 5mm or so holes in the 4 corners of the newly laminated baffle in order for fuel to easily transfer during all flight attitudes, but slow enough to not empty right away during a knife edge pass
4) reattach the other half with a nice bead of hysol, to be covered right away with a band of fiberglass before the hysol sets
5) laminate on the band of fiberglass to reinforce it a little
6) pressure test 1 bar under water to check for leaks and repair any problem area by scuffing and applying a little hysol

At this point you need to install the 2 clunks and check movement is unhindered and clunks don't get stuck in the holes you made (they should never even reach them)

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