luge_racer

While I was out flying my T-one, before the second flight I did my normal ground check and noticed one of my elevators wasn't working (glad it didn't fail on the first flight) . After a little investigating it seemed like maybe the connector wasn't fully seated so I secured it with a connector lock. I did another preflight and everything seemed okay; but after taxiing out I did another quick check and the elevator had stopped working again.

I brought her in and did a more thorough check and it appears the connector itself is no longer reliable.

So I'm looking at upgrading connectors on both elevator servos, and maybe the rudder; but I'm wondering what, if any, upgraded connectors people are using in their jets to replace the stock servo connectors. I thought about Deans Micro-Plugs, but figure there might be something better. FWIW: I prefer to solder over crimp.

TIA

AEROSHELDON

My Feedback: (99)

I suppose you could solder the one4one that Powerbox sells? Have you seen that one? Here is one side on my Mephisto I am building

sc0tt

My Feedback: (61)

Those little yellow connectors are Amass MR30 (available almost everywhere, ebay, amazon, etc) and perfect for removable horiz and vert stabs.
If you don't want to solder yourself then you could buy pre-wired versions from Powerbox as mentioned above. Digitech also sells them in pre-made leads.
https://powerbox-americas.com/collec...remium-one4one

https://www.digitech-aerosports.nl/p...-servo-lead-jr

luge_racer

Those little yellow connectors look great and they are a good price on Amazon. Thanks guys.

Gorm73

Please make sure you get the original that only connects "one way" and not the copy that can be reversed.
(I would have added pictures but it seems that I am not allowed)

JackD

My Feedback: (4)

My 2c: For servo leads, I will take crimping over soldering any day. reason is that when you solder, the end of the solder creates a stress point, where cables can break to fatigue. Crimping is way more flexible and durable. It is tedious, but the result is a much more durable joint (again, just my pov)

wfield0455

My Feedback: (7)

While I completely agree with you as a general statement, in the case of these connectors, if you use heat shrink and install the provided covers then any such issues should be able to be completely mitigated unless you apply way too much heat during soldering and wick solder up the leads to an excessive amount. Of course if there was a crimped alternative then I'd probably select those instead but there really isn't a reason that using these connectors should be any sort of problem.

Bob_B

My Feedback: (11)

In full scale aviation they only use crimping, never solder! For exactly the reason JackD stated!

Basspilot

Do yourself a favor and get a good crimper some powerbox servo leads and never look back. I wire everyone of my jets servos and lighting systems with Powerbox Maxi wire and connectors.

olnico

If you guys like to crimp your connectors, it might be worth having a look at our Ultimate Servo Connectors, that come in 3, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16 and 20 pin plugs.
These are gold plated, certified for 5000 cycles of connection/ disconnection. Sustains 15A continuous @ 8V and 20A burst.

Best of all, the price-for-pin ratio is very good.

https://www.ultimate-jets.net/produc...ervo-connector

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

You can also get these connector from Digi-Key.....

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

while I prefer to crimp all my connectors in my Rc planes full scale Bob has soldered stuff all over the place. Engine connectors light wiring behind the instrument panel all over. But most of it is crimped connectors.

for RC simply get power box stuff and be done.