Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > RC Jets
Reload this Page >

BVM T-33 Build

Notices
RC Jets Discuss RC jets in this forum plus rc turbines and ducted fan power systems

BVM T-33 Build

Old 04-25-2021, 03:48 AM
  #1  
Jetpilot24
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Niles, OH
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 13 Posts
Default BVM T-33 Build

So i picked up the turbine version BVM T33. I started on it a little while ago and decided to show the progress. I am to the point of getting ready to spray primer. I have a little bit of spot fill on the fuse and some small detail work. It builds pretty straight forward with very few issues. The servo mounts and all bulk heads have been installed. I have been using West systems 610 epoxy. This stuff is great as it doesn't run. It does take 24 hours to fully set. The intakes, bypass and tail pipe are all in. I have had the gear in it but removed them to get ready for paint. The tail pipe and bypass will come out for paint as well. Here are some pics of the build.

Joe









Last edited by Jetpilot24; 04-25-2021 at 07:36 AM. Reason: spelling
Old 04-25-2021, 04:49 AM
  #2  
Vincent
My Feedback: (61)
 
Vincent's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Arizona / Colorado
Posts: 4,911
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

I have been buying this stuff on Amazon for years now its very similar to 610. I use the fast cure.

https://www.totalboat.com/product/thixo/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3_Kny7aZ8AIVxBrnCh3_7wQdEAAYASA AEgKF__D_BwE

https://www.totalboat.com/product/thixo-fast/
​​​​​​​

Last edited by Vincent; 04-25-2021 at 04:53 AM.
Old 04-25-2021, 05:12 AM
  #3  
Jetpilot24
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Niles, OH
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

I have bought the 610 on Ebay, but I found a local Marina that stocks it. 24.99 for a tube.


Joe
Old 04-25-2021, 05:58 AM
  #4  
gawlevi
My Feedback: (19)
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Leetonia,Ohio OH
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default Bvm t-33

It's coming along very nicely Joe.
it's refreshing to see actual build threads in the age of the ARF
Old 04-25-2021, 11:40 AM
  #5  
Jetpilot24
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Niles, OH
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

Thanks Garret,

I made a little more progress today. The scale inlets are in and just need to finish up gluing the tip tanks to the mounts.
Power is going to be my trusty propane start K-80.

Joe



The following users liked this post:
michaeldo (05-26-2021)
Old 04-25-2021, 02:19 PM
  #6  
DAN AVILLA
My Feedback: (12)
 
DAN AVILLA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Prescott, AZ CA
Posts: 729
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Looks like a fun project. I built 2 P80s. I remember that people were filling in the under camber below the intakes on the bottom on the T33. With my P80 it enjoyed full flaps speed brake out and crow on landing


The following users liked this post:
michaeldo (05-26-2021)
Old 04-25-2021, 02:31 PM
  #7  
DAN AVILLA
My Feedback: (12)
 
DAN AVILLA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Prescott, AZ CA
Posts: 729
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Another mod is done to the side nose cover. They blow off. Some guys have a rubber band that attaches to the inside. I used a BVM pin latch. Dan
Old 04-25-2021, 03:34 PM
  #8  
Jetpilot24
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Niles, OH
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

Dan that is a nice paint scheme. I plane on doing theN109X with the red strip.

can you elaborate more on filling in the under camber? I know that some people were putting stall strips on the leading edge of the wing near the root to force the center to stall first.

As far as the side nose cover it has the blocks to lock it in then on the aft end is a BVM slide latch pin. I will get pictures later and post.

Joe

Old 04-25-2021, 03:52 PM
  #9  
DAN AVILLA
My Feedback: (12)
 
DAN AVILLA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Prescott, AZ CA
Posts: 729
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Joe that's a nice color scheme . Easy to see. The area in front of the speed brakes on the older kits had a under camber . It effected landing in a bad way. People would fill it with the lightest product you can get. Balsa then glass would be the lightest. I did the hatch the way you stated. It only came off once. If you use about 10 MM of crow stall will not be a problem. When I was doing my first flights even with crow, flaps speed brakes the plane would get pitchy on landing. CG was right. I finally put 4 OZ lead in the nose and problem was solved. This is a plane that you never! let off the elevator on landing. Good Luck Dan
Old 04-25-2021, 04:03 PM
  #10  
Jetpilot24
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Niles, OH
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

I will check the bottom of the fuse. This kit is about 5 years old.

Joe
Old 04-26-2021, 12:25 AM
  #11  
Springbok Flyer
 
Springbok Flyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,389
Received 16 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by DAN AVILLA View Post
...... the plane would get pitchy on landing. I finally put 4 OZ lead in the nose and problem was solved. This is a plane that you never! let off the elevator on landing. Good Luck Dan
Totally agree with Dan. I flew one with an AMT Mercury HP and it was great, especially once I had added some more nose weight.

Enjoy,

JanR
Old 04-26-2021, 02:56 AM
  #12  
Jetpilot24
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Niles, OH
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Springbok Flyer View Post
Totally agree with Dan. I flew one with an AMT Mercury HP and it was great, especially once I had added some more nose weight.

Enjoy,

JanR
Sounds as like the CG is a little to the tail heavy side. I will take this into consideration when I balance mine. I am still a ways away from that.

Joe
Old 04-26-2021, 11:56 AM
  #13  
Ruizmilton
My Feedback: (29)
 
Ruizmilton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Carolina, PUERTO RICO (USA)
Posts: 770
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Joe:

just one suggestion, do not use that red filler, remove from everywhere you used it, you can use acetone to remove it. The reason? It never cures, when you do your final painting, because of the solvents, it’s going to get soft and will show through the finish and ruin it. What you need to use is the blue 2 part glazing putty (same brand) it cures in minutes and is very easy to sand.

You’ll thank me later
Old 04-26-2021, 01:33 PM
  #14  
DAN AVILLA
My Feedback: (12)
 
DAN AVILLA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Prescott, AZ CA
Posts: 729
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Joe one thing I noticed from your pictures you did not put button head screws through the nose gear door hinges . Glue will not hold up and it will allow you to repair them if the nose wheel does not come down. Dan
Old 04-26-2021, 05:05 PM
  #15  
Jetpilot24
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Niles, OH
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Ruizmilton View Post
Joe:

just one suggestion, do not use that red filler, remove from everywhere you used it, you can use acetone to remove it. The reason? It never cures, when you do your final painting, because of the solvents, it’s going to get soft and will show through the finish and ruin it. What you need to use is the blue 2 part glazing putty (same brand) it cures in minutes and is very easy to sand.

You’ll thank me later
Thank you for the suggestion. That is spot filler putty. I have used it for years on many a models. The steps I use it in are to fill the imperfections in the seam first. After I sand it down, I then will be putting a coat of primer on the entire jet. After that I will use the spot filler again. Then those small area's get a shot of primer again. I don't paint directly over the spot fill. I do have the Chromo lite body filler that I use on deeper scratches.
Joe
Old 04-26-2021, 05:07 PM
  #16  
Jetpilot24
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Niles, OH
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by DAN AVILLA View Post
Joe one thing I noticed from your pictures you did not put button head screws through the nose gear door hinges . Glue will not hold up and it will allow you to repair them if the nose wheel does not come down. Dan
Dan

Yes there will be button head screws there. That is one of the small details I need to finish before I spray primer
Joe
Old 04-26-2021, 10:34 PM
  #17  
David Gladwin
 
David Gladwin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: CookhamBerkshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 3,687
Received 42 Likes on 30 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Jetpilot24 View Post
I will check the bottom of the fuse. This kit is about 5 years old.

Joe
I can see from your photos that the “cusp” or droop of the leading edge of the inboard wing section has been removed on your model.

My T33 was flown with JPX 260 and was quite heavy. As did several other fliers we tried hard to eliminate its tendency to flick easily at the stall, which also meant careful handling was required for landing.

We tried root spoilers, crow, ailerons both moving up as elevator was applied. Things improved but the only real fix was removal if the cusp, so for you the problem is solved.

That fix was too late for mine, it spun off a lowish speed wing over, too low to recover.

You should not have that problem so good luck with yours !
Old 04-27-2021, 04:52 AM
  #18  
Saillfish
My Feedback: (17)
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 272
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I am currently flying one and love it. Takes off very scale. Flies great but landing can be a bit tricky sometimes but for the most part isn't bad. Just keep the speed up and she is no issue.. I am flying with a K85 and actually added weight to my tail . Give it max elevator throw. I don't care what the manual calls for. Keep the expo around 15 also on the elevator. I did add 1/4 ply to the top of the main gear mounts and fiberglassed them on the inside. If you zoom in you can see the cloth. I'd do this. The mount is weak. With this mod I have had a few hard landings and no issues since.




The following users liked this post:
Auburn02 (04-27-2021)
Old 04-27-2021, 05:50 AM
  #19  
Saillfish
My Feedback: (17)
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 272
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Another thing. I have hit a dip in the runway at rotation speed and also hit a little hard on landing and the tip tanks broke off. I went in and put 2 - 1/4 inch dowels into the wing foam core about 2.5 inches and into the tank with hysol. Problem solved. Easy for you to do before paint. Sucks to do after they break off.
Old 04-27-2021, 04:09 PM
  #20  
Jetpilot24
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Niles, OH
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

I Thank everyone for all of the input on the T33. Some really good advise on this particular Jet. After looking at mine a little more in depth. I believe this one to be the latest and greatest kit for the turbine version. It does not seem to have the undercamber on the fuselage. Also the wing tank mounts are aluminum tubes into the wing with carbon fiber rod. This structure gets glued into the wing tank then is held in place by a single screw through the wing into the carbon fiber rod. The front hatch does have the latch on it as well. A little bit of fill at the wing roots and I am close to primer.

I also started the cockpit and hatch cover.

I looked at the plans and the CG is 3.5 inches behind the leading edge at the root where the wing meets the Fuselage








.
Old 04-27-2021, 05:03 PM
  #21  
Saillfish
My Feedback: (17)
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 272
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

That is awsome on the wing tank mounts. Also your front hatch is the same as mine with the blocks, etc. It will come off in flight. I don't know how it does. But it does. I actually put 3 socket head servo screws in mine with wood blocks glued in the fuse. Pain to remove screws to open.
More of a pain to buy a new door and paint. Maybe put a piece of clear tape on front, idk. You can see the screws in the picture.
Old 04-27-2021, 05:11 PM
  #22  
Saillfish
My Feedback: (17)
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 272
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

What are these. Never seen them before?
Old 04-27-2021, 05:27 PM
  #23  
gawlevi
My Feedback: (19)
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Leetonia,Ohio OH
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Very nice Joe. Can't wait to see it finished
Old 04-27-2021, 05:28 PM
  #24  
Saillfish
My Feedback: (17)
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 272
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

https://youtu.be/94DZ5DjAVqY

Last edited by Saillfish; 04-27-2021 at 05:36 PM.
Old 04-27-2021, 05:37 PM
  #25  
Saillfish
My Feedback: (17)
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 272
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

https://youtu.be/yHq_gNn9n-4

Last edited by Saillfish; 04-27-2021 at 06:38 PM.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.