Superscale smoking aim-9 sidewinder "smokewinder"
10-20-2021, 12:36 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Superscale smoking aim-9 sidewinder "smokewinder"
Hi huys,
Did a testrun and wanted to show the 1/6 Sidewinder with electric smoker unit. It will get new launcher and find its place on a 1/6 skymaster F16.
cheers
Hank
Sorry i have no idea how to implement videos on the phone....
Did a testrun and wanted to show the 1/6 Sidewinder with electric smoker unit. It will get new launcher and find its place on a 1/6 skymaster F16.
cheers
Hank
Sorry i have no idea how to implement videos on the phone....
10-20-2021, 02:12 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Yes its the smoke el duo system. Tank and pump in the fuselage, and one evaporator per missile, L and R wingtip each.
The missiles are made of a special high temp material to cope with the hot tubes and not burn up.
The missiles are made of a special high temp material to cope with the hot tubes and not burn up.
10-20-2021, 02:48 PM
#5
10-21-2021, 01:35 AM
#6
Good luck with Smoke EL stuff. Be careful not to run the burners "dry", the units will be destroyed in a heartbeat. We had high hopes for this stuff, but they turned out to be not suitable for daily use, especially when the units are mounted in a removable wing / missile whatsoever....
I would rather use smoke cartridges with electric ignition instead of this quite overpriced system. In Germany, where it is manufactured you rarely see any of the smoke EL stuff in use.
I would rather use smoke cartridges with electric ignition instead of this quite overpriced system. In Germany, where it is manufactured you rarely see any of the smoke EL stuff in use.
The following users liked this post:
Halcyon66 (10-21-2021)
10-21-2021, 03:14 AM
#7
Thread Starter
Yes, the Smoke EL stuff is pricey, but i consider it quite good also. It can be turned on and off at any time, while a cartrige burns off uncontrolled and cannot interrupt. The smoke output is also fairly realistic compared to the Smokewinders installed at airshow birds. Operational cost is also a lot lower than smoke cartriges, so if you intend to smoke a lot then it will pay off over time.
Source: armedconflicts.com website
There is an explicid warning not to run the system dry, and at each power-up a primer sequence is mandatory that ensures immediate oil supply before even heating up the elements. Follow the instructions and install a tank with enough volume if you intend to smoke longer, and then you will be fine. Its like everything else in the world: if you dont follow the instructions you wont be happy with what you get.
Mounting inside the missile has no disadvantages so far. Ive noticed a little less energy consumption because the heat is contained better. You do need highly heat resistant materials, but with what is used there are no issues.
The only thing i am not totally happy with is the 6S or higher power requirement. In EDF it is easily provided, but in turbine jets i usually go for 2s or 3s. We will try to connect the 3s gear battery with the 3s ECU battery in a series loop for 6S power extraction without adding weight....
Ive also made a set in 1/11.5 scale for my Freewing/Lanxiang F-4. They are too small to smoke though....1/6 and up in the Sidewinder body. I will start working on a Sparrow and AMRAAM, they will be large enough in diameter to provide smoke at around 1/7 scale and up.
Source: armedconflicts.com website
There is an explicid warning not to run the system dry, and at each power-up a primer sequence is mandatory that ensures immediate oil supply before even heating up the elements. Follow the instructions and install a tank with enough volume if you intend to smoke longer, and then you will be fine. Its like everything else in the world: if you dont follow the instructions you wont be happy with what you get.
Mounting inside the missile has no disadvantages so far. Ive noticed a little less energy consumption because the heat is contained better. You do need highly heat resistant materials, but with what is used there are no issues.
The only thing i am not totally happy with is the 6S or higher power requirement. In EDF it is easily provided, but in turbine jets i usually go for 2s or 3s. We will try to connect the 3s gear battery with the 3s ECU battery in a series loop for 6S power extraction without adding weight....
Ive also made a set in 1/11.5 scale for my Freewing/Lanxiang F-4. They are too small to smoke though....1/6 and up in the Sidewinder body. I will start working on a Sparrow and AMRAAM, they will be large enough in diameter to provide smoke at around 1/7 scale and up.
10-21-2021, 09:01 AM
#8
If you connect 2x 3S batteries in series
you can get 6S but it will mess up common ground for those systems because there will be 12V difference between negative leads which are otherwise all connected to same ground on RX(Gear and ECU servo leads to RX)
Maybe not if there are some optoisolators but do check first
you can get 6S but it will mess up common ground for those systems because there will be 12V difference between negative leads which are otherwise all connected to same ground on RX(Gear and ECU servo leads to RX)
Maybe not if there are some optoisolators but do check first
10-21-2021, 02:33 PM
#10
Will you please out line the start sequence here, in simple english?
I have two of these systems and every time I try to use it, it needs a space shuttle takeoff checklist start sequence.
Let me elaborate.
1. Turn on system with switch in off position
2. Turn on switch to prime position
3. Wait to see a trail of oil
4. Turn switch to middle position
5. Turn switch back to prime position to use
6. If you mess up the sequence, start at the bottom again.
Is that it?
Not to mention, that you have to adjust the valves and servo travel to get the pump output right. Oh and you have to remember to disassemble and clean every 10 time or so you use it. I had to clean one of my tubes after just a couple of tries and I couldn't figure out why it wasn't smoking, so I took it apart and saw it was clogged!!
Not to say, I don't want it to work, I really do, I paid $3k for the system, it just seems a bit tedious and am wondering if someone has a simple setup and let it work kind of trick?
I have two of these systems and every time I try to use it, it needs a space shuttle takeoff checklist start sequence.
Let me elaborate.
1. Turn on system with switch in off position
2. Turn on switch to prime position
3. Wait to see a trail of oil
4. Turn switch to middle position
5. Turn switch back to prime position to use
6. If you mess up the sequence, start at the bottom again.
Is that it?
Not to mention, that you have to adjust the valves and servo travel to get the pump output right. Oh and you have to remember to disassemble and clean every 10 time or so you use it. I had to clean one of my tubes after just a couple of tries and I couldn't figure out why it wasn't smoking, so I took it apart and saw it was clogged!!
Not to say, I don't want it to work, I really do, I paid $3k for the system, it just seems a bit tedious and am wondering if someone has a simple setup and let it work kind of trick?
10-21-2021, 03:57 PM
#11
Thread Starter
Hi Ravill,
Please differentiate between one-time-setup and prior-use-priming.
One-time-setup:
1.) you need a 3 position switch on the TX. Pos 1: OFF at -100% travel. Pos2: ARMED at 0%. Pos3: ON at +10%-+90%. Use a value depending on single/dual use and tubing length. Usually 40-60% will be fine. I use 55% with 1m/3ft of tubing and a single unit. It is not that critical, rather use a few % more as it will increase system pressure. Going higher will add to the time that the system is gasing out after shutting off, so if you are pulling long trails after shutoff you want to decrease a bit.
2.) Give full smoke with valve almost fully shut. Open up the valve slowly, until smoke quantity does not increase. Shortly after the system will start spitting tiny droplets out the smoke exhaust. Turn back down to the point where smoke stopped increasing and theres no droplets. It takes a few tries and 15 minutes of tweaking.....
This you never have to do again, unless changing system parameters.
Priming for each power-up:
1.) Ensure 3 position switch is off, then power up TX, RX and Smoke power. System does an analysis run, LED does some wild multi color blinks,, 5-10s. Stay calm.
2.) Switch via ARM to ON. Heating element stays cold while pump starts pumping. Remain in ON until smoke oil flows out of smokers.
3.) When oil is coming, switch via ARM to OFF. LED turns green.
_______PRIMING COMPLETE __________
4.) Switch to "ARM". LED turns red. Heating element is heated up to 800 degrees centigrade, about 30s. When finished -> LED goes green, system is ready and is maintained in preheated state.
Every time you go to "ON" the heater goes to full power and pump is started, smoke starts (this is why you dont want to run dry, the oil cools the heater and prevents it from burning out). Back to "ARM" turns off the pump and sets the heater to maintain temp.
Going to OFF takes the power off the heater and makes the system cool. If you go back to ARM you need to wait for the heating cycle again.
Sounds complicated, but its 1 switch, so once youve done it a few times its actually not that bad...
All OFF -> power on -> Switch to ON -> maintain till oil flows -> Switch to OFF -> Switch to ARM -> Smoke ready after 30s heating.
not more complicated than starting a turbine.....
Not perfectly happy but it is a good and reliable system. If you need to clean after a few trials then you are letting too much oil in....close the valve another tad.
Current price for the dual is around $800. Not sure where you paid the $3k.....
Please differentiate between one-time-setup and prior-use-priming.
One-time-setup:
1.) you need a 3 position switch on the TX. Pos 1: OFF at -100% travel. Pos2: ARMED at 0%. Pos3: ON at +10%-+90%. Use a value depending on single/dual use and tubing length. Usually 40-60% will be fine. I use 55% with 1m/3ft of tubing and a single unit. It is not that critical, rather use a few % more as it will increase system pressure. Going higher will add to the time that the system is gasing out after shutting off, so if you are pulling long trails after shutoff you want to decrease a bit.
2.) Give full smoke with valve almost fully shut. Open up the valve slowly, until smoke quantity does not increase. Shortly after the system will start spitting tiny droplets out the smoke exhaust. Turn back down to the point where smoke stopped increasing and theres no droplets. It takes a few tries and 15 minutes of tweaking.....
This you never have to do again, unless changing system parameters.
Priming for each power-up:
1.) Ensure 3 position switch is off, then power up TX, RX and Smoke power. System does an analysis run, LED does some wild multi color blinks,, 5-10s. Stay calm.
2.) Switch via ARM to ON. Heating element stays cold while pump starts pumping. Remain in ON until smoke oil flows out of smokers.
3.) When oil is coming, switch via ARM to OFF. LED turns green.
_______PRIMING COMPLETE __________
4.) Switch to "ARM". LED turns red. Heating element is heated up to 800 degrees centigrade, about 30s. When finished -> LED goes green, system is ready and is maintained in preheated state.
Every time you go to "ON" the heater goes to full power and pump is started, smoke starts (this is why you dont want to run dry, the oil cools the heater and prevents it from burning out). Back to "ARM" turns off the pump and sets the heater to maintain temp.
Going to OFF takes the power off the heater and makes the system cool. If you go back to ARM you need to wait for the heating cycle again.
Sounds complicated, but its 1 switch, so once youve done it a few times its actually not that bad...
All OFF -> power on -> Switch to ON -> maintain till oil flows -> Switch to OFF -> Switch to ARM -> Smoke ready after 30s heating.
not more complicated than starting a turbine.....
Not perfectly happy but it is a good and reliable system. If you need to clean after a few trials then you are letting too much oil in....close the valve another tad.
Current price for the dual is around $800. Not sure where you paid the $3k.....
