new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
03-23-2005, 04:38 PM
#251
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RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
John
What about removing a section at the rear of the side intake ducts so that the suction is at the rear as well. I have not installed mine yet and considered turning them over so that the opening faces backward but they wouldn't fit that way. Is there a possibility of a venturi effect at speed if they face backward ?? It would be easy enough to modify the fuz to face the intakes toward the rear.
What about removing a section at the rear of the side intake ducts so that the suction is at the rear as well. I have not installed mine yet and considered turning them over so that the opening faces backward but they wouldn't fit that way. Is there a possibility of a venturi effect at speed if they face backward ?? It would be easy enough to modify the fuz to face the intakes toward the rear.
03-24-2005, 02:54 AM
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RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
Rory
I am thinking of doing something as you suggest, or making a couple of larger scoops to face rearwards and fit over the existing ones.
I am going to make up wire mesh screen to be fixed over the air inlets on the inside of the fuz. that should stop any larger pieces of debris.
I am planning a trip to our runway next week with a big brush, it's only 80 x 6 yards!
John
I am thinking of doing something as you suggest, or making a couple of larger scoops to face rearwards and fit over the existing ones.
I am going to make up wire mesh screen to be fixed over the air inlets on the inside of the fuz. that should stop any larger pieces of debris.
I am planning a trip to our runway next week with a big brush, it's only 80 x 6 yards!
John
03-24-2005, 03:46 AM
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RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
Sandor..
...in your third picture do your wheels fit into the wheel wells completely....or stick out below the underside of the wing when retracted.?.
...in your third picture do your wheels fit into the wheel wells completely....or stick out below the underside of the wing when retracted.?.
03-24-2005, 03:56 AM
#256
RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
ORIGINAL: Treadstone21
Sandor..
...in your third picture do your wheels fit into the wheel wells completely....or stick out below the underside of the wing when retracted.?.
Sandor..
...in your third picture do your wheels fit into the wheel wells completely....or stick out below the underside of the wing when retracted.?.
these stick out indeed , since it is no fast jet it does not matter
and like now they give me a wider load
03-24-2005, 05:10 AM
#257
RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
ORIGINAL: rcguy!
Sandor,
Sorry to hear of your trouble. Good "save". Looks like the MLG struts bent pretty bad. I would think this is what should happen as opposed to tearing out the structure. Thanks for posting the pictures!
Dave Rigotti
Sandor,
Sorry to hear of your trouble. Good "save". Looks like the MLG struts bent pretty bad. I would think this is what should happen as opposed to tearing out the structure. Thanks for posting the pictures!
Dave Rigotti
structure was fine
the damage to the floor was caused from draging the gear underneath it
no real damage
i will fly it again today with the cg to 190
toulk one 5 cell package out of the nose and put the 4400 lipo in front
and test our new 80N Turbine (same size as the "old" one)
on the flight yesterday i used 200 mah on the turbine basicly i could fly it the whole weekend before a recharge
03-24-2005, 11:34 AM
#258
RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
ok
flew it again today
finaly got it down in one piece and gear still ok
what a difference with the gears in gras you wont even see the plane move while taxing
cg is now set at 190 MM Leading edge and flew even better
so i will leave it at this
the flame out yesterday was caused due to wrong fuel used
i "borrowed" parafine from a friend i thought it would behave the same as petroleum
but it doesnt rpm pickup is slow , sloggy , and again almost to a point where it would flame out on me
with this setup i can fly it allready at 25% throttle
flying time today was 12 minutes and still had about 650CC in the tank
flew it again today
finaly got it down in one piece and gear still ok
what a difference with the gears in gras you wont even see the plane move while taxing
cg is now set at 190 MM Leading edge and flew even better
so i will leave it at this
the flame out yesterday was caused due to wrong fuel used
i "borrowed" parafine from a friend i thought it would behave the same as petroleum
but it doesnt rpm pickup is slow , sloggy , and again almost to a point where it would flame out on me
with this setup i can fly it allready at 25% throttle
flying time today was 12 minutes and still had about 650CC in the tank
03-24-2005, 06:37 PM
#260
RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
Hey Gang,
Has anybody gotten the steering mechanism to work. I mean with the kit supplied servo mount and steering arm?
MY problem is that as the gear retracts, the pushrod contacts the steering arm and cocks the strut. Seems to me that the only way this setup will work is to lay the servo on the floor to get the servo wheel MUCH lower. I've attached pictures to show what I mean.
AM I MISSING SOMETHING? Help!
Dave Rigotti
Has anybody gotten the steering mechanism to work. I mean with the kit supplied servo mount and steering arm?
MY problem is that as the gear retracts, the pushrod contacts the steering arm and cocks the strut. Seems to me that the only way this setup will work is to lay the servo on the floor to get the servo wheel MUCH lower. I've attached pictures to show what I mean.
AM I MISSING SOMETHING? Help!
Dave Rigotti
03-24-2005, 09:56 PM
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RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
Dave
You do not seem to have noticed my contribution. (Post 243)
However my problem was even worse in that my conventional servo would not not even screw down into the slot properly, without cutting a recess in both the wall and the roof. I notice you have not yet fitted your servo screws either. However as you say, when you retract the U/c, you then jam up on the steering arm.
I considered raising the U/c mount away from the floor/roof, but that would involve the wheel sticking out in flight and in my case drilling more holes in the firewall.
After stripping out the little box, I considered laying the standard servo (like yours) on its side forward of the retract. However you need to build two little hardwood pillars or chop up a servo tray which then have/has to be screwed to floor ( or fixed in some removable way) to enable you to service or adjust the servo from time to time. You are also quite pushed for space, because as you move the servo forward it starts to interfere with the retracted wheel. When you think the landing loads on that steering servo may be quite sharp, I felt that such screws, would inevitably be torn out.
If you mount it straight, then you either have the interference problem, which you have already sussed or you cut a hole in the floor and have a servo protruding into the battery bay. I felt both of those consequences were bad news.
I felt using a low profile servo (the Supertec 136 is normally a retract servo and actually has more torque than the HS625) was quite a neat solution. The bearers actually strengthen the nose area and there is no jamming when the U/c is retracted. It has worked faultlessly on the first 15 flights or so. On one occasion, I inadvertently pulled up the flap on landing and dropped on the ground from about 3 ft, totally bending the front U/c leg. The steering mechansim survived unaffected. This solution is therefore not only neat but robust.
You do not seem to have noticed my contribution. (Post 243)
However my problem was even worse in that my conventional servo would not not even screw down into the slot properly, without cutting a recess in both the wall and the roof. I notice you have not yet fitted your servo screws either. However as you say, when you retract the U/c, you then jam up on the steering arm.
I considered raising the U/c mount away from the floor/roof, but that would involve the wheel sticking out in flight and in my case drilling more holes in the firewall.
After stripping out the little box, I considered laying the standard servo (like yours) on its side forward of the retract. However you need to build two little hardwood pillars or chop up a servo tray which then have/has to be screwed to floor ( or fixed in some removable way) to enable you to service or adjust the servo from time to time. You are also quite pushed for space, because as you move the servo forward it starts to interfere with the retracted wheel. When you think the landing loads on that steering servo may be quite sharp, I felt that such screws, would inevitably be torn out.
If you mount it straight, then you either have the interference problem, which you have already sussed or you cut a hole in the floor and have a servo protruding into the battery bay. I felt both of those consequences were bad news.
I felt using a low profile servo (the Supertec 136 is normally a retract servo and actually has more torque than the HS625) was quite a neat solution. The bearers actually strengthen the nose area and there is no jamming when the U/c is retracted. It has worked faultlessly on the first 15 flights or so. On one occasion, I inadvertently pulled up the flap on landing and dropped on the ground from about 3 ft, totally bending the front U/c leg. The steering mechansim survived unaffected. This solution is therefore not only neat but robust.
03-24-2005, 10:20 PM
#262
RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
HenryRG,
Yes I saw it. I don't have a low profile servo and don't intend to buy one as the 625 was purchased for this purpose as it fit the servo mount perfectly. I did cut a hole in the balsa floor and ran 2 light ply stringers to mount the servo to. The steering is working fine NOW. The servo body that protrudes into the battery area will still allow the ECU 6 cell pack to slide all the way to the nose. I have a feeling I'm going to need to do that!
I just can't for the life of me see how Alan has his steering working? I mean why have it in the production kit if it didn't work in the prototypes? There are alot of mysteries with this airplane and I can't help to think some of us are performing R&D work. The kit has been available for a month now and been flying since early December. We STILL don't have any pictures of the prototype airplane and any from Alan's production kits. These are laser cut and any errors such as the mislocated boom holes can be corrected immediately when assemblying a production run prototype. Five minutes on the CAD station and 5 more post processing the CNC file and you have it!
I can say without a doubt, Alan has responed to all of my emails in a timely manner. The misbent replacement nose gear strut showed up Monday. The busted wheel well liners showed up on Wednesday, in less than 10 days from England. He's doing a good job with support. He'll need to.
Dave Rigotti
Yes I saw it. I don't have a low profile servo and don't intend to buy one as the 625 was purchased for this purpose as it fit the servo mount perfectly. I did cut a hole in the balsa floor and ran 2 light ply stringers to mount the servo to. The steering is working fine NOW. The servo body that protrudes into the battery area will still allow the ECU 6 cell pack to slide all the way to the nose. I have a feeling I'm going to need to do that!
I just can't for the life of me see how Alan has his steering working? I mean why have it in the production kit if it didn't work in the prototypes? There are alot of mysteries with this airplane and I can't help to think some of us are performing R&D work. The kit has been available for a month now and been flying since early December. We STILL don't have any pictures of the prototype airplane and any from Alan's production kits. These are laser cut and any errors such as the mislocated boom holes can be corrected immediately when assemblying a production run prototype. Five minutes on the CAD station and 5 more post processing the CNC file and you have it!
I can say without a doubt, Alan has responed to all of my emails in a timely manner. The misbent replacement nose gear strut showed up Monday. The busted wheel well liners showed up on Wednesday, in less than 10 days from England. He's doing a good job with support. He'll need to.
Dave Rigotti
03-24-2005, 10:48 PM
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RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
Dave
I saw Alan's model at the AGM of the Jet Modellers Association, and in fairness he had built it, in the way described in the kit.
However he had used a long servo arm, which brought the rod both low and near the U/c mount. Of course when it is on a stand you do not get to see it retracted. I could not see what servo he was using, but the long arm implies very high torque, with rather a small body to fit in his servo box. My Supertec 06 just would not go in at all.
I think these little problems are inevitable with a small 1 man designer. The plus side is of course the originality and performance of the model. I find it very relaxing and enjoyable to fly. On some models, I find I need a 20 minute break and a cup of tea to recover my brain from the stress. Even my 30 year old son finds the little Savex L39 pretty stressful, it gets away from you so fast. This model does not. It has a unique character which you would never get from a model designed by a committee.
Anyway what is the point of RC-Universe, if we did not have a few interesting threads to chew on?
I saw Alan's model at the AGM of the Jet Modellers Association, and in fairness he had built it, in the way described in the kit.
However he had used a long servo arm, which brought the rod both low and near the U/c mount. Of course when it is on a stand you do not get to see it retracted. I could not see what servo he was using, but the long arm implies very high torque, with rather a small body to fit in his servo box. My Supertec 06 just would not go in at all.
I think these little problems are inevitable with a small 1 man designer. The plus side is of course the originality and performance of the model. I find it very relaxing and enjoyable to fly. On some models, I find I need a 20 minute break and a cup of tea to recover my brain from the stress. Even my 30 year old son finds the little Savex L39 pretty stressful, it gets away from you so fast. This model does not. It has a unique character which you would never get from a model designed by a committee.
Anyway what is the point of RC-Universe, if we did not have a few interesting threads to chew on?
03-24-2005, 11:27 PM
#264
RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
ORIGINAL: HenryRG
Dave
I saw Alan's model at the AGM of the Jet Modellers Association, and in fairness he had built it, in the way described in the kit.
However he had used a long servo arm, which brought the rod both low and near the U/c mount. Of course when it is on a stand you do not get to see it retracted. I could not see what servo he was using, but the long arm implies very high torque, with rather a small body to fit in his servo box. My Supertec 06 just would not go in at all.
I think these little problems are inevitable with a small 1 man designer. The plus side is of course the originality and performance of the model. I find it very relaxing and enjoyable to fly. On some models, I find I need a 20 minute break and a cup of tea to recover my brain from the stress. Even my 30 year old son finds the little Savex L39 pretty stressful, it gets away from you so fast. This model does not. It has a unique character which you would never get from a model designed by a committee.
Anyway what is the point of RC-Universe, if we did not have a few interesting threads to chew on?
Dave
I saw Alan's model at the AGM of the Jet Modellers Association, and in fairness he had built it, in the way described in the kit.
However he had used a long servo arm, which brought the rod both low and near the U/c mount. Of course when it is on a stand you do not get to see it retracted. I could not see what servo he was using, but the long arm implies very high torque, with rather a small body to fit in his servo box. My Supertec 06 just would not go in at all.
I think these little problems are inevitable with a small 1 man designer. The plus side is of course the originality and performance of the model. I find it very relaxing and enjoyable to fly. On some models, I find I need a 20 minute break and a cup of tea to recover my brain from the stress. Even my 30 year old son finds the little Savex L39 pretty stressful, it gets away from you so fast. This model does not. It has a unique character which you would never get from a model designed by a committee.
Anyway what is the point of RC-Universe, if we did not have a few interesting threads to chew on?
I didn't see anything in the instructions about a long arm. Wouldn't this make the steering sensitive? I believe you the model is relaxing to fly, I've seen the video. Yes, there are always small problems to deal with and Alan has supported my communications very well. The purchase price is not cheap by todays ARF standards. The problems I've had with misaligned holes in the booms have wasted alot on my time trying to figure out what I was doing wrong. An email to Alan cleared up the situation right off....He knew about it. The nose gear coil hitting the frame is another example. I'm the only one this has happen to? A spacer is required on the firewall to clear the coil...I'm the first to discover this? Grinding clearance in a $200 set of retracts is not my idea of a good value.
Lets see what Alan comes out with on the document he is working on..a errata sheet so to speak. I'm sure he is busy building one to clear up these issues.
Dave Rigotti
03-25-2005, 03:18 AM
#267
RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
ORIGINAL: rcguy!
Hey Gang,
Has anybody gotten the steering mechanism to work. I mean with the kit supplied servo mount and steering arm?
MY problem is that as the gear retracts, the pushrod contacts the steering arm and cocks the strut. Seems to me that the only way this setup will work is to lay the servo on the floor to get the servo wheel MUCH lower. I've attached pictures to show what I mean.
AM I MISSING SOMETHING? Help!
Dave Rigotti
Hey Gang,
Has anybody gotten the steering mechanism to work. I mean with the kit supplied servo mount and steering arm?
MY problem is that as the gear retracts, the pushrod contacts the steering arm and cocks the strut. Seems to me that the only way this setup will work is to lay the servo on the floor to get the servo wheel MUCH lower. I've attached pictures to show what I mean.
AM I MISSING SOMETHING? Help!
Dave Rigotti
but i see we have a lot different....
03-25-2005, 03:21 AM
#268
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RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
Hi All
Well I have had all the problems that you guys have had and find it pretty annoying considering the price of this kit.
I've fitted the recommended retracts and had problems with nose leg, wheel wells supplied to small for wheels in the kit, having to have shortened undercarriage due to the maximum length allowed by the nose leg,I find little things like this tend to make me think that not much thought has gone into this plane regarding the undercarriage set up.
And excessive weight having to be put in the nose for balance
RCGUY :- I put a dogleg in my pushrod for the steering and seems ok (plane not finished yet only servo's fitted all round at the moment, and undercarriage fitted)
I'm sorry to have to say this but I do not think at £399.99 it is good value for money.
Tony
Well I have had all the problems that you guys have had and find it pretty annoying considering the price of this kit.
I've fitted the recommended retracts and had problems with nose leg, wheel wells supplied to small for wheels in the kit, having to have shortened undercarriage due to the maximum length allowed by the nose leg,I find little things like this tend to make me think that not much thought has gone into this plane regarding the undercarriage set up.
And excessive weight having to be put in the nose for balance
RCGUY :- I put a dogleg in my pushrod for the steering and seems ok (plane not finished yet only servo's fitted all round at the moment, and undercarriage fitted)
I'm sorry to have to say this but I do not think at £399.99 it is good value for money.
Tony
03-25-2005, 03:39 AM
#269
RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
ORIGINAL: HenryRG
Dave
I saw Alan's model at the AGM of the Jet Modellers Association, and in fairness he had built it, in the way described in the kit.
However he had used a long servo arm, which brought the rod both low and near the U/c mount. Of course when it is on a stand you do not get to see it retracted. I could not see what servo he was using, but the long arm implies very high torque, with rather a small body to fit in his servo box. My Supertec 06 just would not go in at all.
I think these little problems are inevitable with a small 1 man designer. The plus side is of course the originality and performance of the model. I find it very relaxing and enjoyable to fly. On some models, I find I need a 20 minute break and a cup of tea to recover my brain from the stress. Even my 30 year old son finds the little Savex L39 pretty stressful, it gets away from you so fast. This model does not. It has a unique character which you would never get from a model designed by a committee.
Anyway what is the point of RC-Universe, if we did not have a few interesting threads to chew on?
Dave
I saw Alan's model at the AGM of the Jet Modellers Association, and in fairness he had built it, in the way described in the kit.
However he had used a long servo arm, which brought the rod both low and near the U/c mount. Of course when it is on a stand you do not get to see it retracted. I could not see what servo he was using, but the long arm implies very high torque, with rather a small body to fit in his servo box. My Supertec 06 just would not go in at all.
I think these little problems are inevitable with a small 1 man designer. The plus side is of course the originality and performance of the model. I find it very relaxing and enjoyable to fly. On some models, I find I need a 20 minute break and a cup of tea to recover my brain from the stress. Even my 30 year old son finds the little Savex L39 pretty stressful, it gets away from you so fast. This model does not. It has a unique character which you would never get from a model designed by a committee.
Anyway what is the point of RC-Universe, if we did not have a few interesting threads to chew on?
i also had some small isue,s but i fixed them according my way
indeed alan left some stuff out of the manual because he thinks it is normal that a builder knows these things
and let us be honnest anyone who fly,s a jet schould have no problems in building this kit.
the things i did not like about this kit was:
the glue they used , and the way they glued it
yes that was all
i glued my mid wing section onto the fuselage anyway
i re glued all spars and joints again
the dowels for the wings? and boom? i used a carbon rod that stays in the fuselage
the boom goes over and then the wing , much better
because i leave my booms on the plane i take just the wings of for transport
maybe it would better if i would have seen a picture of the locking device so i would understand better how it works
before bending a screw
but then that is my opinion
the manual was well writen and almost idiot free , but then some dont even read it...
i am flying it again today
here is my list i used that i bought extra:
control horns double for ball links:
Graupner 3649 total 6 packages 12 euro,s
aluminium ball links M3 to M2 2x 4 euro,s
Tank 2 liters 10 euro,s
Servo,s:
1 x 5191 for steering (metal gears) 30 euro,s
rest: 6 x DS5491 Digital power ordernumber:5165 ECO Metal:Graupner (40 Euro,s a piece)
Oleoset 125 euro,s (can NOT be fully retracted yet )but absolute ok for grass and rough landings
Gear: i used a Spring air 310a but redrilled the holes to 6MM i guess spring air will make another one with 6mm pickups
also i painted the back with BVM,s Heatschield
03-25-2005, 04:57 AM
#270
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RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
Hi Sandor
As much as I respect your comments, I would think that most of who have got this model have a lot of experiance in building.
My point was that if the recommended retracts are Springair 101HD's then surely these should fit right out of the box if they had been fitted to a production kit, If they didn't then some explaintory notes would have been exceptable. Even the holes for the fitting of the nose retracts don't line up, fortunatly I have access to a right angled drill, not a very easy job otherwise.
ARF or otherwise unless people make comments about them then they will never improve the product especially as this is not a cheap kit.
People's exceptance of quaility varies from one person to another, also exceptance of one's own workmanship vary from one person to the next.
But as I understand it the model flies exceedingly well so I will reserve my final judgement until I have flown mine.
Tony
As much as I respect your comments, I would think that most of who have got this model have a lot of experiance in building.
My point was that if the recommended retracts are Springair 101HD's then surely these should fit right out of the box if they had been fitted to a production kit, If they didn't then some explaintory notes would have been exceptable. Even the holes for the fitting of the nose retracts don't line up, fortunatly I have access to a right angled drill, not a very easy job otherwise.
ARF or otherwise unless people make comments about them then they will never improve the product especially as this is not a cheap kit.
People's exceptance of quaility varies from one person to another, also exceptance of one's own workmanship vary from one person to the next.
But as I understand it the model flies exceedingly well so I will reserve my final judgement until I have flown mine.
Tony
03-25-2005, 05:23 AM
#271
RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
ORIGINAL: Tony abw60
Hi Sandor
As much as I respect your comments, I would think that most of who have got this model have a lot of experiance in building.
My point was that if the recommended retracts are Springair 101HD's then surely these should fit right out of the box if they had been fitted to a production kit, If they didn't then some explaintory notes would have been exceptable. Even the holes for the fitting of the nose retracts don't line up, fortunatly I have access to a right angled drill, not a very easy job otherwise.
ARF or otherwise unless people make comments about them then they will never improve the product especially as this is not a cheap kit.
People's exceptance of quaility varies from one person to another, also exceptance of one's own workmanship vary from one person to the next.
But as I understand it the model flies exceedingly well so I will reserve my final judgement until I have flown mine.
Tony
Hi Sandor
As much as I respect your comments, I would think that most of who have got this model have a lot of experiance in building.
My point was that if the recommended retracts are Springair 101HD's then surely these should fit right out of the box if they had been fitted to a production kit, If they didn't then some explaintory notes would have been exceptable. Even the holes for the fitting of the nose retracts don't line up, fortunatly I have access to a right angled drill, not a very easy job otherwise.
ARF or otherwise unless people make comments about them then they will never improve the product especially as this is not a cheap kit.
People's exceptance of quaility varies from one person to another, also exceptance of one's own workmanship vary from one person to the next.
But as I understand it the model flies exceedingly well so I will reserve my final judgement until I have flown mine.
Tony
so if there is allready a difference in these, then it is no suprise that the holes also dont line up.
i also had a savex albatros where they made it for the spring air 300 series and guess what , hte left side fitted the right side did not
i measured the spring air , and they where not exactly the same , i did not blame savex
as for flying it , it is to easy to fly it no bad behaviour nothing
03-25-2005, 06:07 AM
#272
RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
ORIGINAL: rorywquin
Dave
What was the problem with the booms ?
Dave
What was the problem with the booms ?
Maybe I have a bad kit????
Dave Rigotti
03-25-2005, 06:34 AM
#273
RE: new Arf Boomerang 14lb thrust
ORIGINAL: Tony abw60
Hi Sandor
As much as I respect your comments, I would think that most of who have got this model have a lot of experiance in building.
My point was that if the recommended retracts are Springair 101HD's then surely these should fit right out of the box if they had been fitted to a production kit, If they didn't then some explaintory notes would have been exceptable. Even the holes for the fitting of the nose retracts don't line up, fortunatly I have access to a right angled drill, not a very easy job otherwise.
ARF or otherwise unless people make comments about them then they will never improve the product especially as this is not a cheap kit.
People's exceptance of quaility varies from one person to another, also exceptance of one's own workmanship vary from one person to the next.
But as I understand it the model flies exceedingly well so I will reserve my final judgement until I have flown mine.
Tony
Hi Sandor
As much as I respect your comments, I would think that most of who have got this model have a lot of experiance in building.
My point was that if the recommended retracts are Springair 101HD's then surely these should fit right out of the box if they had been fitted to a production kit, If they didn't then some explaintory notes would have been exceptable. Even the holes for the fitting of the nose retracts don't line up, fortunatly I have access to a right angled drill, not a very easy job otherwise.
ARF or otherwise unless people make comments about them then they will never improve the product especially as this is not a cheap kit.
People's exceptance of quaility varies from one person to another, also exceptance of one's own workmanship vary from one person to the next.
But as I understand it the model flies exceedingly well so I will reserve my final judgement until I have flown mine.
Tony
I agree with you completely. I've built and flown R/C since the late 60's so I'm no novice. I would think that since this IS a "jet" model, all things would (must) be correct. All the surprise annoyances could have been buffered with a more informative manual and a "errata" sheet. I don't find it acceptable to put a dogleg in any pushrod on any model. If it is required, then tell us. The control horns are another area needing improvement. The holes, in my kit anyway, are about 50% bigger than the DuBro clevis pin. DUH! I doubt that Ali is flying a "box stock" kit with these horns in the video.....Of course, I may be wrong.
The bummer here is that Alan has a great concept and I'm betting $1500 of my money (less turbine) it flies great and will continue to do so. LAST thing Alan AND I need is a structural failure in flight! So far the "assembly" has left a bad taste in my mouth. I do realize it is an ARF and things would be different if I built it from a kit. Like the glue joints Sandor mentions for one. For $700USD, Should I have to go over all the glue joints? I did have 2 servo mounts break away from the structure when screwing the servo in. YES, I predrilled the holes at 1/16"!
The nose ballast required has got me baffled too. Has anyone gotten theirs to balance at 180mm with only 4ozs in the nose? I've taken GREAT pains to reduce the "aft" weight as much as possible. I've used mini servos that saved 1oz EACH and my elevator servo is @ 1/4oz lighter than many in the same torque range. (Can you imiagine worrying about saving 1/4oz in a turbine model!) I even went with carbon pushrods to save another 1/4oz.
One more time...Alan's support has been very good. Some of the problems I have were of no suprise at all and some were "new" ones.
Lets give Alan some time to respond with a errata sheet and some decent instructions. Unfortunately for some of us, it will be to little to late.
Dave Rigotti
