john agnew

Rory

Did exactly the same thing with my Ram 500 when making up an extension lead to the ECU battery. Luckily the repair only came to $80 plus postage to the US.

John

rorywquin

Good to know I am not alone !!

Have you flown with the new intakes -- weather down here has been dire this week!

john agnew

Rory

Went out to fly today but decided against it as there was a 20mph crosswind which was not apparent when I left home for the field.

Forecast is not brilliant for next week either. Living in some place like San Diego obviously has it's compensations!

Best of luck with your maiden flight, look forward to hearing of your success.

John

Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

John,

I have a question about the Cap screws that lock the inner and outer wing panels to the booms. Is the inside of the locking mechanism in the booms tapered so that when you lock it it actually pulls the wing sections into the booms? The instructions leave a little to be desired in this regard.

Thanks

Bob Michaud

john agnew

Bob

The short answer is no. There is no taper , as you can probably see the bolt head goes through a hole in the locking jack slightly larger than the bolt head. Below that there is a slot which is smaller than the bolt head, when you tighten the screws this pulls up the slot and this holds the bolt head securely. What you need to do is experimant with the distance the bolt head protrudes from the wing root and have this set so that the bolt head just engages in the slot. Doing this keeps the wing on as tightly as possible. You just need a bit of patience to set it up.

Rcguy was ready to pull his hair out until I gave him some psychiatric counciling on the subject

I must admit I found it a bit awkward at first but now it's adjusted I take my model to the field in one piece apart from the wing outer panels and only have to connect up two servo leads and the four screws, I can be ready to fly in 5 minutes.

I now think it's one of the best wing retaining systems i've come across.

John

HenryRG

Let me support John. It works well.

What I found - is that you can get a quick adjustment. Attach the boom to EITHER the outer or inner wing panel in turn, with deliberately long wing bolt screws crews. Press both parts together.

Tighten the locking screws on top, until the keyhole slider comes up and locks and then back off a bit - say half a turn. Then go to the side and tighten the long bolt screws. They too will lock. Remember to put a touch of Locktite on the long srew bolt before you insert it and leave to harden.

Eventually when you have done all four interfaces, she clamps up solid everytime on just the 4 top screws.

john agnew

Henry

Where have you been hiding? Long time no hear from. How is progress on the Hawk?

John

Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

John,

You have re-inforced what I originally thought about the systems function.

Henry,

That is exactly the way I adjusted mine during the test fit. It seemed to work fine. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing anything before I added Loctite to the screws ( was contemplating using CA but changed my mind).

Thank you both for the help. This thread has been extremely helpful to me. This is my first Turbine.

Best Regards

Bob

sky warrior

Hi
I cut a lollipop stick to the required width an used this as a gauge to set the inside head of the screw. I was virtually spot on for all of the screws when assembled. I then tightened IN the screw 1/4 turn which meant the head was caught but a tight fit thus pulling the wing up solid. After about 5 assemblies it goes together tight and easy.
However make sure you have modified the ply plate by increasing its height by 3mmm as recommended by Alan in his mod. notes last week.

HenryRG

John

You do not say whether you mean the PJP Hawk or the AMD Hawk.

PJP
Piers and I put in a lot or work with the wet&dry this weekend. The fuselage is now black all over. It needs a final rub down then the tranfers, then the laquer. Any advice on the best car lacquer will be gratefully received.
AMD
Piers has been working on the cockpit. He had used his Microsoft pilot training program to produce a small photo of exactly the right size to fit the dashboard. It looks very good and is of course ex\ctly correct.

We are aiming for the Classic Jet rally for both models.

RC-GUY

Has that snow gone yet? I am realy looking forward to hearing how you get on.

john agnew

Henry

I meant the AMD as I have just got mine, it already has the dashboards in the completed canopy, good to hear you are near completion.

Would love to see some shots of the PJP when complete.

I use Ford clear laquer from Halfords but I haven't used it for a complete fuselage. I does polish quite well with T cut or similiar.

John

rcguy!

My Feedback: (69)

HenryRG,

Snow is gone! Hit 70 degrees F yesterday. Weekend forecast says sunny and upper 50's with a 5-9MPH from the NNE. "Oh Yeah!"

I Have 2pc 3,000MAH RCU batts and 2 pcs 2850MAH RX packs. Going to burn alot of Kerosene and not wait for batteries to charge!

Forgot to mention that my nosegear setup uses a 2 1/2" wheel instead of a 2 1/4" one and retracts fully into the pod without raking the strut forward. This should help with daily take-offs and landings from a grass strip. The Kavan brake installs easily too! No air to leak and the RCATS E switch makes setup a snap.

Dave Rigotti

john agnew

Dave

Looking forward to hearing the good news! You will love this model it is so easy and good to fly.

John

rcguy!

My Feedback: (69)

John,
I'll keep you posted.

Need any more screen?

Dave Rigotti

HenryRG

RC-Guy

Thanks for the tip on the front wheel. Piers is trying to persuade me to do the same thing. Our model is very nose down as a result of not putting the main U/c legs as far in board as possible. Thanks to the big holes I cut in the bearers for the springs in the legs, I can not really move them in board, without changing the whole bearer. Changing the wheel size, is possibly the way forward.

John

Thanks for the tip on the Ford Laquer. I will try it.

Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

Hi Dave,

Glad to hear you're almost ready to go!

When you mounted the main gear retracts did you put them inboard so you wouldn't have to reliec one of the gear mount blocks in the wing to clear the coil on the wire strut?

I haven't drilled the mount blocks yet.

Thanks
Bob

digitech

My Feedback: (10)

Here is finaly a flight video of the Boomerang intro
thos who dont like rage against the machine turn down your volume
the rest step it up
quality coul;dbe better but then for a 50 usd part it is still ok

it is bettter to download it first
http://duned.nl/thermiek/filmpjes/boomdone.wmv

SJN

Thats a very cool video Sandor!!

rcguy!

My Feedback: (69)

Meesh,
I mounted the mains @3/16" from the inner most position. Look back thru the posts and you'll see the filler blocks I installed on BOTH sides of the retracts. Bend the axle to center the wheel. A small amount of the mount needs to be cleared for the coil. This makes for an already narrow wheel thread even more narrow, but this is what is required to get the model to sit level. I'm not sure where Alan has his with his setup. This took some considerable planning to get right as you don't have many tries at it. I used blind nuts and bolts, my buddiy is trying 20mm long wood screws.

The nosegear mounts @3/8" from floor and is off center to allow for the Kavan brake. Route out the nose well forward to the noseblock and bend the strut for the axle. Using 2 1/2" wheels on the mains AND the nose, the model sits level. Again, look at my previous posts. Block in the nose well cutout and fabricate a new hatch and you're in business. BTW...GET the updated nose strut..it won't need altering to clear the retract frame. Unscrew the steering rod and re-install from the opposite side.

Hope this helps!

Dave Rigotti

DocYates

My Feedback: (102)

Cool Sandor. It looked very smooth in the air, with not much buffetting at all. Looked like very minimal pitch change with the gear down. It did not appear to slow up too much, but the image could be deceiving since it is faced backward.
Tommy

Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

Hi Dave,

I'll check back to see the pics of the install. I was thinking of using blind nuts too. I don't have a lot of faith in wood screws in high stress applications.

Did Alan send you a strut?

Thanks
Bob

rcguy!

My Feedback: (69)

YUP...sorta..Patricia sends them from Dallas. She requires sending the one back first. My buddy did the swap out this week via Fedex overnight. He wants to fly this weekend and didn't want the delay. I think Alan (Patricia) will be including the interference free strut in all kits shortly? Correct me if I'm wrong.

Dave Rigotti

Tony abw60

Well its completed, hopefully to be flown in the coming week.
14lbs 4ozs,
185mm CG.
Wren MW 54 MK3
No lead in the nose just a couple of 2400 mah batts for radio and fuel pump.
Looking forward to flying it, but must fly something else first to get me back on the sticks not flown much this last 12 months.
Tony

rcguy!

My Feedback: (69)

Nice numbers! Good luck on the maiden! Keep us posted!

Any pictures on the equipement install for us to look at?

Dave Rigotti

Shok

My Feedback: (28)

Sorry I caught this thread at the end, but are the kits in Dallas someone mentioned?
Is it a place that I can run by and pickup?