Reaction 54 Jet Kit
#2651

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Today, at E-Jets of the West my 83% scale (64"ws) EDF Reaction recorded a radar speed of 135mph. Not bad for a 4.5" fan pulling 62 amps on 12s, 5000.
#2652

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Laurel, MD
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I am currently building a Reaction 54 and really appreciate all the information that this thread has provided. I really feel that my chances for success are greatly increased having read it.
A couple of questions and clarifications:
I would like to use the Prolink trailing links because of their additional function and they look awesome (nothing against the Robart wired setup). I see that most guys have used the small links for the nose and main. The Dreamworks web site shows two sizes of small links for the nose and mains. The nose has 3/16ths and 1/4th. The mains are 7/16ths and 1/2. Can someone tell me which ones are the most appropriate size?
I am assuming that the wheel well location and dimensions have to be adjusted because of axel length etc. Is this true or is there something else that I should be looking out for?
I have already ordered my Kevlar fuel tank from Gary. I am on using my 9503 JR transmitter and the 9000 receiver. I not sure what I want to do for a receiver power supply...thinking about the A123 batteries. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks
Don S.
A couple of questions and clarifications:
I would like to use the Prolink trailing links because of their additional function and they look awesome (nothing against the Robart wired setup). I see that most guys have used the small links for the nose and main. The Dreamworks web site shows two sizes of small links for the nose and mains. The nose has 3/16ths and 1/4th. The mains are 7/16ths and 1/2. Can someone tell me which ones are the most appropriate size?
I am assuming that the wheel well location and dimensions have to be adjusted because of axel length etc. Is this true or is there something else that I should be looking out for?
I have already ordered my Kevlar fuel tank from Gary. I am on using my 9503 JR transmitter and the 9000 receiver. I not sure what I want to do for a receiver power supply...thinking about the A123 batteries. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks
Don S.
#2653

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ORIGINAL: JustFlyIt
I am currently building a Reaction 54 and really appreciate all the information that this thread has provided. I really feel that my chances for success are greatly increased having read it.
A couple of questions and clarifications:
I would like to use the Prolink trailing links because of their additional function and they look awesome (nothing against the Robart wired setup). I see that most guys have used the small links for the nose and main. The Dreamworks web site shows two sizes of small links for the nose and mains. The nose has 3/16ths and 1/4th. The mains are 7/16ths and 1/2. Can someone tell me which ones are the most appropriate size?
I am assuming that the wheel well location and dimensions have to be adjusted because of axel length etc. Is this true or is there something else that I should be looking out for?
I have already ordered my Kevlar fuel tank from Gary. I am on using my 9503 JR transmitter and the 9000 receiver. I not sure what I want to do for a receiver power supply...thinking about the A123 batteries. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks
Don S.
I am currently building a Reaction 54 and really appreciate all the information that this thread has provided. I really feel that my chances for success are greatly increased having read it.
A couple of questions and clarifications:
I would like to use the Prolink trailing links because of their additional function and they look awesome (nothing against the Robart wired setup). I see that most guys have used the small links for the nose and main. The Dreamworks web site shows two sizes of small links for the nose and mains. The nose has 3/16ths and 1/4th. The mains are 7/16ths and 1/2. Can someone tell me which ones are the most appropriate size?
I am assuming that the wheel well location and dimensions have to be adjusted because of axel length etc. Is this true or is there something else that I should be looking out for?
I have already ordered my Kevlar fuel tank from Gary. I am on using my 9503 JR transmitter and the 9000 receiver. I not sure what I want to do for a receiver power supply...thinking about the A123 batteries. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks
Don S.
Go with 2pcs 2 cell A123 packs EACH thru its own switch harness and then directly into your 9 channel RX. No need for regulators what so ever. Works for me for 3 years in anything from a KingCat to my 115% size 'Over Reaction".
Dave Rigotti
#2654

Join Date: Feb 2007
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Dave,
Thanks for the A123 advice. Is there a perferred vender and what mAh should I look for (yes, this is my first round with A123s).
I am putting my Wren 75 in my Reaction and I am really pumped for it. Soon I am going to start collecting fuel and field equipment. This is a whole new world for my from my warbirds....awesome.
Don
Thanks for the A123 advice. Is there a perferred vender and what mAh should I look for (yes, this is my first round with A123s).
I am putting my Wren 75 in my Reaction and I am really pumped for it. Soon I am going to start collecting fuel and field equipment. This is a whole new world for my from my warbirds....awesome.
Don
#2655
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There are only 2 sizes, about 1100 and about 2200 mAh. I imagine that you want the larger ones. (they are pretty light, and R54 usually want some nose weight anyway).
Make sure you get the brand name A123 cells. There are some clone cells out there of unknown quality. Once you have the real cells, any good vendor should be fine.
Bob
Make sure you get the brand name A123 cells. There are some clone cells out there of unknown quality. Once you have the real cells, any good vendor should be fine.
Bob
#2657

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JustFlyIt,
I used the DW trailing links in my Reaction. Got almost 400 problem free flights off of grass and then sold it. The guy who bought it is still having the same problem free experience!
On mine I used the small 7/16" mains which required the wheel wells to be extended about 1" and offset to the rear by .25". In the nose I used the small 7/16" gear which just dropped in. You will need more clearance in the nose above the wheel when it is retracted.
Jim
I used the DW trailing links in my Reaction. Got almost 400 problem free flights off of grass and then sold it. The guy who bought it is still having the same problem free experience!
On mine I used the small 7/16" mains which required the wheel wells to be extended about 1" and offset to the rear by .25". In the nose I used the small 7/16" gear which just dropped in. You will need more clearance in the nose above the wheel when it is retracted.
Jim
#2658

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Laurel, MD
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Bob and Paul,
Thanks for the info on the A123. I will go the larger size and get those ordered. I didn't want to go Lipo or NiMh. I am also glad to hear that the two switch setup into the receive will be good enough. I wasn't against going with a power system with regulators but don't have a clue about them. Glad the issue goes away.
Jim,
I don't see the 7/16" nose gear on the DW site. I see the 3/16" nose gear. Is that what you used?
Thanks
Don S
Thanks for the info on the A123. I will go the larger size and get those ordered. I didn't want to go Lipo or NiMh. I am also glad to hear that the two switch setup into the receive will be good enough. I wasn't against going with a power system with regulators but don't have a clue about them. Glad the issue goes away.
Jim,
I don't see the 7/16" nose gear on the DW site. I see the 3/16" nose gear. Is that what you used?
Thanks
Don S
#2659
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Sounds like you have your power system all sorted out. I am almost done with my airframe. I am using the Fremeco Wolverine switch. It has redundency built into the switch. I am using 2 2200mah nicads.
http://www.airwildpilotshop.com/More...product&id=702
http://www.airwildpilotshop.com/More...product&id=702
#2661

Join Date: Feb 2007
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Jim,
Good deal...I see the quarter inch strut on the DW web site. I think that I will use the Intairco (spelling) brakes and wheels and brakes. That should hook me up. Now to put all the parts together!
Don
Good deal...I see the quarter inch strut on the DW web site. I think that I will use the Intairco (spelling) brakes and wheels and brakes. That should hook me up. Now to put all the parts together!
Don
#2663

Join Date: Feb 2007
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Ok, I am almost set except for servos. Bruce's FAQ suggests HS-5625MG and HS-5645MG. I have looked through the thread and saw some info. Does anyone have anything current to add for servo suggestions? I am not afraid to send money for safety but I don't want to throw it away either.
I don't have a problem with Bruce's suggestion...just want to know about options.
Don
I don't have a problem with Bruce's suggestion...just want to know about options.
Don
#2664
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I'm using HS 5985's and HS 5645's. However I did have a 5645 on one of the flaps go south on me after about flight #30. Both of these were swapped out for HS 5485HB's and so far no issues and the airplane doesn't seem to notice the slightly less torque on the flap but then again I bleed the speed WAY off before putting them out.
MV
By the way, I have Hitec servo's in most of my airplanes even though I fly Futaba. The single flap failure has been the only real failure I've seen and has not influenced my choice to use HS equipment.
MV
By the way, I have Hitec servo's in most of my airplanes even though I fly Futaba. The single flap failure has been the only real failure I've seen and has not influenced my choice to use HS equipment.
#2665
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Guys, I just spent four days with Bruce at his Rogue Valley shop at the end of January, what a gracious host, and one fine designer builder. I also got to see the little gnomes he employs to pack his boxes.. lol, he does everything himself and says that's what the "E" in BTE is for.. Engineering the box.
He's currently buried in UAV projects but once he's done, maybe we can talk him into something new and fun.. Just maybe.. Ok, I'll stop because I've not grown fond of duct tape over the mouth. "waves at Bruce" We might just see an article on Bruce in a future issue of JPO magazine, Just maybe.
While this is a Reaction thread, I don't think he would mind if I shared with you a picture of the inspiration for the Reaction 54....
Enjoy!
He's currently buried in UAV projects but once he's done, maybe we can talk him into something new and fun.. Just maybe.. Ok, I'll stop because I've not grown fond of duct tape over the mouth. "waves at Bruce" We might just see an article on Bruce in a future issue of JPO magazine, Just maybe.
While this is a Reaction thread, I don't think he would mind if I shared with you a picture of the inspiration for the Reaction 54....
Enjoy!
#2666

Join Date: Feb 2007
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Guys,
I spoke with Todd at Dreamworks and he told me that the 3/16's inch wire off of the Robart retracts will not work with the Prolinks (1/4" nose, 7/16" mains). I get the impression from these pages that most of you that used the Prolinks mounted them on the Robart retracts from Bruce. What am I missing?
Thanks
Don S.
I spoke with Todd at Dreamworks and he told me that the 3/16's inch wire off of the Robart retracts will not work with the Prolinks (1/4" nose, 7/16" mains). I get the impression from these pages that most of you that used the Prolinks mounted them on the Robart retracts from Bruce. What am I missing?
Thanks
Don S.
#2667

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I always love a chance to demonstrate my ignorance. The Robart retract uses a trunion bushing for the 3/16"s wire. Without the bushing it the size is 7/16", what I need for the Prolink small mains.
I am slow but usually I catch on.
Don S.
I am slow but usually I catch on.
Don S.
#2668

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Well the 3 piece wing works fine, Jim got the maiden flight in this morning with a Kingtech K80 for power.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ijWMze-VEE[/youtube]
Jeff
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ijWMze-VEE[/youtube]
Jeff
#2670

Something I always wanted to experiment with are spoilers on the R54. I finally got around to it with airframe #3. The spoiler well is centered above the bottom wing hatch just aft of the top spar. It is nine inches long and one inch in width. A small servo in the hatch area will actuate the spoiler. My hope is to be able to point the nose down at a spot on the runway and land without ballooning. I want to use flaps and spoilers together to create sufficient drag to make landings very predictable. The spoiler is taped in the photo..but it will be hinged after the wing is covered.