Square Nozzle

My Feedback: (1)

I think I said it before. This is similar to when I bought my Harley Sportster. Once you take the first bite, the money doesn't stop flowing.

I looked at the fuel station sites and yes I can build one. "We have the technology", but as you said I want it now. I don't want to chase around for supplies and take the time away from building the R54. Sooooooooo I just ordered a lowboy from Dreamworks for $.01 shy of $200. Plus shipping of course. Should have it next week.

Square Nozzle

My Feedback: (1)

R54 builders, I'm at the stage where I want to install the servo extensions in the wing and plan out what I will use to connect to the receiver. What length extensions did you find you needed to get from the aileron and flap servos to the wing root and what length 'Y' is appropriate to get from the wing root to the receiver assuming Hitec 5625 and 5645 servos and the receiver in the plan location? My estimates say 24" in the wing and 24" 'Y's. I'll be using a JR 6102 transmitter with a JR R790 PCM receiver so I have to 'Y' the wing servos to save channels for the gear and flaps.

TommyWatson

My Feedback: (1)

Just lay out the servos on the wing and useing a piece of string follow the path on top of the wing to measure the length. Make sure you have long enough extensions. You dont want them tight in the tubes.
I used longer extensions and shorter "Y"'s. If you use a long "Y" it is hard to get it all connected. Make the extensions long enough to just reach the hole in the wing. Then connect the "Y" and tuck the connectors back into the holes.

I tied all of my in wing connectors with dental floss. You don't want one to come loose.

Regards

TommyWatson

My Feedback: (1)

My "Y"s stop just outside of the wing (about 6"). then I used two straight extensions to connect to the radio. I use those little yellow clips to secure.

You need to be able to undo them to get the wing off.

Regards

BruceTharpe

My Feedback: (1)

Here's what I used on my latest R54:

AILERONS
24" extensions from aileron servos to wing openings (2)
24" extensions from Rx to wing opening (2) - no Y
If you have to use a Y, use a 12" version to ease assembly at the field.
Leave excess extension loosely bundled in the wing hatch area.

FLAPS
18" extensions from flap servos to Y connector (2)
12" Y connector (1)
24" extension from Rx to Y connector (1)
I used a Hitec Servo Programmer to reverse one of the flap servos. On my original
R54, I used a plug-in servo reverser on one servo. Both ways work fine.

ELEVATOR
6" extension from Rx to servo (1)

RUDDER
6" extension from Rx to servo (1)

STEERING
No extension needed, but I used a 4" Y connector to connect this servo and
my receiver battery to channel 8 in my 8-channel Rx.

RETRACT
No extension needed.

Notes:

Rx and servos are all positioned as shown on the R54 plans.

All extensions, Y connectors, and heavy-duty switches purchased from Cermark.
Cermark offers different color connectors, which helps avoid mistakes when
hooking up the flap and aileron connections at the field.

Other builders prefer to run their aileron and flap connections forward, into the
area under the front hatch, so they can visually check them before each flight.
Good idea! But will require different extensions than listed above.

Square Nozzle

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Tom and Bruce. I had the lengths pretty well figured correctly but I overlooked what Tom said about the hookup at the wing/fuselage connection and then getting that to the receiver. Extensions from the receiver to the wing saddle area wasn't considered. Now I know. I will use carpet thread to tie the connections so they don't come apart. Thanks Again.

Wing panels are joined - starting on the fuselage.

Sonicwings

Hi All,

Everyone has been very quiet on here lately ?????

Couple questions come to mind someone mite be able to answer please,
I have a set of BVM retracts, current alloy purple jobs, and Bandit oleo legs, main wheels of 2/5.8 with brakes--- all new in the draw--- these were bought as i was looking to build a Bobcat XL, But didnt find a NIB kit to buy--- now would these be usable / suitable to build into a 54 ?????? any problems or tips greatly appriciated----

Sent Bruce a couple emails, costed getting a kit down to my end of the world--- very pleasently supprised to find shipping comes out at $89 USD for postal airmail---- plan on ordering in the next couple months after i finish my Rookie 11 im currently building----

Eddie P,
Hows your finishing progress going ????? any updates and pics ???
all the best Jay.

Eddie P

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Jay, the paint is all on the R54, even clear coat and weathering The clear coat covered up the decal lines and brought it all "together". I used "Warbirdcolors" polyurethane paint, water based, and some of the color splashes were Testors Acylic. The clear coat and base coats of the polyurethane were fuel proof, and the paint has proved to be high pigment, covering well, and pretty light weight too.

I've been busy with life events, reunions, and other fun stuff. No time to shoot pics and post but I'll do so, as soon as I can.

bmullica

Sorry if this question has been asked before but I'm new to this forum. I'm sold on the Reaction 54 but I don't think I have the skills to fly one yet. Any suggestions on other planes that are good "stepping stones" up to the R54? I think I'm looking for something with rudder, flaps, tricycle gear...pretty high performance. Electric power preferred.

Thanks.

Redline7000

My Feedback: (2)

Although, they don't have landing gear or rudders, pylon racers, hotliners or F5B sailplanes are about as high performance as you can go in electric powered models. Other than these, you can try Jepe's EDF ( http://www.jepe.org ) models like his Pyranha or F16 , but once again these have no landing gear or rudder.

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

A good question might be , have you flown anything so far and if so, what type of planes?

Marty

bmullica

In the past I have flown a number of different combat slope sailplanes (foamies). I now have an electric Unicorn wing and a Muliplex FunJet w/JGF 450TH motor.

bmullica

I'm thinkin' the Great Planes [link=http://www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/gpma0450.html]Patriot XL[/link] might do the trick. What do you guys think?

BruceTharpe

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Bill, I think the Patriot XL is often recommended as a stepping stone to turbines, so it's probably a good choice.

This probably sounds self-serving, but I think my Delta Vortex is a decent choice, especially if powered at the top end (.91 2-stroke). Not sure what e-power to recommend though.

There have been threads in the past on RCU on this topic, and there's a forum on extreme speed prop planes that might give you some ideas too.

Many pilots who fly the R54 say it reminds them of the high-speed pattern ships they used to fly...

TommyWatson

My Feedback: (1)

I agree with Bruce, an overpowered, heavy, Bridi Super KAOS or UFO with retracts is just about right. Gives experience with retracts, and a fast "goes where you point it" type of model. And it is built of the same materials, and you have to build it, so thats more experience.
The only thing missing is the throttle delay but you can simulate that with the TX, and flaps.

speedbrake

Dave,
I have two R54s. One with Bruce's fuel setup and the other with the exact setup shown in your picture. I have a 72 oz. tank with rear clunk pickup. Fortunately, I haven't experienced the problem you had with either jet. I"m curious as to why the UAT would drain before the main tank. Could it have been a pinched line not allowing fuel from the main tank to flow...or the clunk line stuck in a up position during flight? Glad you have it fixed but I'd sure like to know what caused it.

Keith

rcguy!

My Feedback: (69)

I'll assume Dave is Dave Rigotti?

The main tank clunk would uncover and suck air into the UAT. I did a lot of take offs and landings during that time. When I switched to the rear facing clunk the problem went away. Trust me...the problem went awya immediately.

Dave

speedbrake

Thanks Dave,
I experienced three consecutive flame outs when I began flying my R54. You mentioned your fuel problems to me then but never explained why it happened. I was curioius to see if you figured it out.

I just experienced a rash of propane problems which I can't explain. The propane system wouldn't take a full charge...so had to inject propane externally during the start sequence. The start sequence would hang up at about 17,000 RPM until more propane was injected. I took the system a part but didn't find anything...such as a plugged or bent line. I did find a lot of fluid in the on-board canister. Once the canister was drained, I was able to apply a full charge of propane once again. Why the residual gas in the canister wasn't being used during a start sequence is a mistery to me.

Keith

Eddie P

My Feedback: (4)

Re' - propane problems.

What about a propane solenoid not working properly due to failure/fod, or a clogged filter upstream of the solenoid...

speedbrake

The propane system is now working normally. Before I drained the canister the system wouldn't accept a full charge of propane. It would still start and run but required a squirt of propane during the start sequence. The red solenoid light always came on. It acted like the canister was always full...but wouldn't provide enough propane to complete the start sequence. Not sure about a filter in the propane system.

Cheers

speedbrake

I flew my second R54 for the first time today. I said I would report on how the tips worked out. It flies a little different that the standard Reaction. First of all, it flies a wee bit faster. I think the amount of wing area I removed when adding the winglets has increased the the wing loading....it is also heavier because of the struts, wheels, brakes, and larger fuel tank. It doesn't seem to float on landing as does my number one Reaction. I landed without flaps on the first flight and it didn't float down the runway...but rather it came in a little hotter but settled quickly. On the second flight I used about 45 degrees of flaps and it again landed a bit hotter but settled quickly with no tendency to float. So....I think the reduction in wing area has made a big difference on how it lands. However, the biggest surprise I got was from the struts. The standard wire gear is very stiff. The struts cushion the landings amazingly well. Even takeoffs are smoother. If you haven't thought about adding struts I recommend you think about it....it makes a huge difference. I added Trim brakes and they work very well. It is nice to have the braking authority...although they aren't used all that much it is still nice to have brakes that really stop the jet. The attached pictures show how much of the tips I removed. The area removed seems to be just enough to change the landing characteristics. The only down side of the tips is the need to remain careful not to damage them while handling, storing, and transporting the wing. If I were to do it again, I would probably make the winglets larger. I just passed eighty flights on my first Reaction and still enjoy flying it. The second one will make it that much more fun.

Cheers

Eddie P

My Feedback: (4)

Pretty cool observations. I first flew mine with wire struts too. Worked fine.

Then I went to spring/oleo type struts. Aside from not transferring so much jarring motion to the airframe (I fly off paved surfaces only), the model taxis, takes off and lands much better because there is no flex and wobbling from wire landing gear struts. The braking action on the main gear brakes is far better too with no shaking or rattling like before. While the wire landing gear works OK enough, Robart or similar struts are a very good, modest price investment that pay dividends from the get go IMHO. Especially when operating from paved surfaces. Maybe it would be harder to tell on grass.

speedbrake

Actually, it is more noticable on grass because the surface isn't as smooth. I fly off of grass and the difference is amazing!!

speedbrake

...forgot the pictures

speedbrake

More pics....