BJ64

Cool

I can probably spin something like that up out of Ali on the lathe - but I don't quite get what you mean by "the point of it is not in the middle of the spinner nut".

I can see it's offset, but what are you aligning it in reference to if not the starter/Turbine mating axis?

BJ

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

You want the point of the tool in the middle of the spinner nut, as you can see in the picture it is not aligned in this one, and so the bullet starter housing needs to be pulled/shimmed to get it to line up.

rorrock

BJ,
I think he was showing that as an example of how it shows when things are not aligned.. It also makes it easier to get it centered..

Rob

Xwingnut

My Feedback: (24)

Those wishing to try this use caution and read Xairflyer's words carefully. It was mentioned the wires were just touched to blip the starter. There's a reason for this. Most come with a 2S LiPo and fully charged it is at 8.4V. A direct connection any longer than a second or two will guarantee a burned out starter motor (you'll also be spinning dry bearings). Then you'll be back to experiancing the old air start ways till you get a new starter motor. BTW, they do air start easily. One or two quick shots of air and off it goes.

Regards,
Xwing

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Xwingnut, good you mentioned that as I would just use an old 6v battery not the actually battery used for the ECU and can see how some would think I meant the ECU battery.

BJ64

Okies - thanks for that.

So the object of the game is to get the tip of the insert perfectly in the centre of the spinner nut, yah?

I got a bit confused with the pic - I thought at first that this is the way it might end up looking when other things were 'aligned'. But I get it now - I work the bullet-starters legs until i get the pin-point of the 'tool' dead centre on the main-shaft's nut.

And re the battery? Already learnt that lesson whumping the 2S LiPo onto the fuel pump - didn't read it right. LiPo is 7.4V - MAX fuel pump is 7.2V. Overspin and seize that idler gear inside the fuel-pump and you'll know what I mean...

The 4.8 1500mAh 'quad cell' NiMH battery that comes with a JR DSX9 is a nice battery to test-run things with IMHO, including Servo's etc.

BJ

PS - Has anyone tried Diesel in these things? Or a mix of hardware-store Kero and Diesel? Jet-A1 is darn hard to get these days down here, and I'll need to find an alternate fuel/mix that will still deliver comparable BTU...

Swift427

BJ64,

Oh, how we'd love to fly this jet. Can you imagine trucking on down the road with this baby in tow?

HD clip of The CIRRUS VISION SF50 Mock-up being assembled for the presentation at KSMO on 2/04/10
http://www.typhoon.biz/?page_id=74

BJ64

Not exactly "RC" is it?... LoL

BJ

Kometfreak

Diesel is burnable, the main problem is the sulfur content. Make you have low sulfur content or it will erode and corrode the NGV and twheel. Diesel is used in many stationary turbines for power generation, where they start and run them for months nonstop. A funny note, at the airport many folk use Jet-A in their diesel ground equipment and trucks. Problem is that Jet-A does not have the lubricating properties of diesel and they eat up their FI pumps.

PS: look here for heat content. http://www.experimentalaircraft.info...n-fuel-jet.php

BJ64

Thanks for the info Komet.

I think our Diesel down here in Oz has a fairly low sulphur content. I'll check it out and see if I can get some fuel specs from the Oil Refineries here in Melbourne. Sounds like Diesel packs a bit more punch than Kero and even Jet fuel too (5% more energy??).

I'd be interested to find out if a blend of Kero/Diesel would be any good. Bulk Kero hasn't been around for years, so it runs at about $4/litre. Diesel is around $1.50/litre. The only way I can buy Jet-A1 is via a 200lt drum at $400 which works out to $2 a litre. At the end of the day, the actual price of the fuel isn't all that important- I'm not going to ruin a couple of thousand dollars worth of Turbine to save 20 lousy dollars on fuel (although I do find $4 a litre for home Kero a bit steep LoL). It's more the availabilty - and the future of that availabilty. And the Jet-A1 is a bit suss when it comes to safety, so I've been reading.

'Tysons Fuel' own both the Moorabbin Airport and Essendon Airport fuel franchises near me, and they have stopped selling *anything* unless the nozzle of the bowser goes directly into an Aircraft's fuel tank. And I doubt that our major domestic & internataional 'Tullamarine' Airport would sell anything to the public. So I'm constantly on the hunt for a clean, reliable and efficient economical alternative to Jet-A1...

BJ

PS - I need me one of those Cirrus things to get me to work in the mornings...

BJ64

Maaaate...if I had one of these babies, it sure as hell wouldn't be 'in tow' - more likely I'd be busy blitzing the motorists on the freeways with low-level passes, flipping them the occasional 'bird' and letting them choke on my exhaust stack as I climb-out and head back up into the peace and quite of the Wild Blue Yonder... LMAO

Why?.... because I CAN... *suffer in ya jocks*... [:-]

BJ

rorrock

BJ..

Call around some of the jet engine workshops at the smaller airfields.. They drain Avtur and normally have to dump it afterwards..
Some of them may be willing to swap a few gallons for a six pack ..

Rob

BJ64

Ta Rob.

I've got a mate at the local airport doing just that - but it's a bit slow at the moment re tank-flushes etc.

I think I'll end up going for a 44 of the stuff and be done with it. The initial outlay of 400 bucks will dent the Visa card somewhat LoL. But it's not as if it's going to go off - and I'm sure there'd be a few 'locals' not too far away from where I live that would kill for a 20lt drum of it for 40 bucks (I'm assuming they're stuggling to get their hands on any as well). Either way, 200ltrs should last me a while. Then again, the 'twins' drink that stuff like it's going out of fashion - 4ltrs lets me 'play' for about 5 mins... [&:]

BJ

rorrock

Yeh they can be thirsty little buggers...

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

One advantage living in a colder climate everyone has oil fired central heating so kerosene is plentiful !

SJN

Has anyone found the perfect solution for a restrictor for the lube line ?

After replacing my turbine wheel which threw a blade, I also replaced the lube line to the bearings, as the original one was leaking at the solder joint.

After the first test run, I could see fuel/oil in the snow on the ground under the turbine exhaust.
The whole exhaust and turbine wheel where wet from fuel and oil after shutdown. Also, the engine went through the tank quite fast.
It was also poping quite alot during startup.

I only ran the engine up to 75.000 during this test, just to see if all was running well.

Blowing through the lube line almost feels like there is as much flow as on all the injectors together.

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

The restrictor that comes from jetjoe seems to work well It looks like the end of a syringe, and one could be made from a hypodermic needle

SJN

Thanks for the tip.


Meanwhile, I got creative and crimped a brass tube a little, to reduce the flow.
Ill test it and see how it goes.


Here are some pictures of the leaking lube line.
The new one looks exactly the same, but it must be a little larger diameter than the original one i had.
I did not see the difference when i installed the new one....only leak checked it before installing it.

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Your turbine is an older model or is it the JJ1200 ? my fuel lube line is inside the starter housing and linked to the fuel feed with a T piece, in this link there is a restrictor

SJN

Mine is an older JJ-1400. It has the 1200 front cover....but 1400 internals.

I accidently folded the lube line when installing the front cover, and it destroyed my bearings the run after that.
After the bearing replacement, I made a hole for each line, so they dont bend under the cover.

In the pictures above, the fuel line for the injectors is on the other side of the turbine. I have a Y connector in the fuselage where the lube line and injector line meet.

JKEpps

My Feedback: (1)

Wowzers on that broken turbine blade! Did you notice it from visual inspection, vibration, noise? Sorry if a dumb question. WOnder what caused it.

-Jorden

SJN

It happened inflight.
It kept runing, but it sure made a strange noise at low rpm

There was a fault in the blade when i bought it.

I took pictures of it before the failure, and comparing before and after, you can actualy see the fault lines in the blade

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Yes that cover is not as deep and not as much room for the pipework.

That blade failure is the sort of thing that caused JetJoe all the problems in the past, that turbine wheel should never have left the factory.

It dos'nt take much to make a turbine blade fail, I remember watching a program on a airliner crash, and the cause was put down to a impurity in the metal the size of a grain of sand in one of the turbine blades !

JKEpps

My Feedback: (1)

Oh yeah! You can see both the vertical and horizontal fault lines in the blade. Wowzers!

-Jorden

Kometfreak

I think I would have not attempted to run that engine with a cracked blade. You are lucky it did not take out somebody during start, taxiout and takeoff.