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s/m 1/6 f16 in my hot little hands!

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Old 01-06-2019, 02:04 PM
  #1951  
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Default Fuel / smoke tanks.

hi guys looking for bit of info on what people are doing,
‘I am putting my 16 back together and thinking of plumbing smoke by using top tank.
my system at moment draws from top tank fed by bottom 2 in parallel. / works fine.
Am thinking of running top tank as smoke.
Bottom 2 tanks fuel. , First question how big are they?
question 2 run them parallel to the trap or run in series.
i have had trouble running tanks parallel before in other planes and don’t think you would notice side inbalance when 1 tank still full and other empty, has anyone done it this way?
Old 01-06-2019, 02:46 PM
  #1952  
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Hi - I am not exactly sure of the amount in the two bottom tanks, but I usually fly 7 minutes with a BF220 turbine, and always have a little fuel left in the left bottom tank. I have run tanks in series in all of my 3 SM 1/6 F-.16s, and never had a problem with side imbalance.
If you are unsure about the fuel amount, why not use one of the bottom tanks for oil, the top tank is bigger than the bottom tanks.
Tor
Old 01-06-2019, 04:07 PM
  #1953  
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Probably depends on which motor you are using. I fly mine with a P200 and use all three for fuel. I can fly for 9 minutes, but usually land by 8 min with 1/2 to 3/4 upper tank remaining. I had Gary Mueler make me two small smoke tanks that fit into the wing root area in the fuse, It is a Thunderbird scheme so I had to have smoke. I also have my fuel system in a series like Tor's and have never had an issue with side imbalance. Good luck
Old 01-06-2019, 08:31 PM
  #1954  
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Default Fuel smoke etc

Thanks guys esp Tor brilliant option that’s what I will do , one side for smoke will be fine.
i to have thunderbird scheme so it deserves smoke, only have a jetcat 160 so don’t need full fuel anyway.
was a bit nervous running 2 tanks in parallel as have had problems with that in past. And is how this was plumbed when I got it.
i am busy at moment creating plug in dorsal fins with 3 - 4 3mm electric plugs as ripped one out, BTW don’t fly it with 1 it is not nice. But as you guys know to fix is a major pain as you have to haul everything out.
also my front section was a bit loose / crushed wood at joiners.
and Undercarage needs a bit of tlc as one side been sticking.
Also changing radio from jr with Powerbox expander and 3e to a Jeti setup with Jeti assist gyro.
Old 01-07-2019, 12:43 AM
  #1955  
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Just a fun fact: My first F-16 1/6 had a 160 size turbine. I had all three tanks full and had been in the air for approx 8 minutes preparing to land when a fullsize glider declared an emergency, claiming he was 2-3 minutes out. I was told to fly away from the runway area and go into a holding pattern. The glider only came in for landing after 5 minutes, and was quickly moved from the runway - by the time I was allowed to turn on final I had been in the air for 15 1/2 minutes, and as I taxied in from the runway, I only had fuel in my 200 ml hopper tank! 30 seconds more and I would have had a flameout and probably not enough speed to save the plane!
Old 05-03-2019, 06:07 AM
  #1956  
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Default G3

Has anyone ordered a new g3 yet? I would like to know what changes have been made considering the skymaster website has zero information...

Also I am considering ordering one with the LE flaps, is this.a proven and safe system now or am I asking for trouble?
thanks
Old 05-03-2019, 06:24 AM
  #1957  
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Default 1/6 scale gen 3.

I have a gen 3. It is ready for it's maiden flight just waiting for the weather and my work schedule to cooperate.
the 1/6 is not available with the leading edge flaps even though there are pics on the site.
I also have a thread on the issues I had with this model. There were other issues I had that are not mentioned is my thread.
depending on which engine you want to use and if you want to use a bypass, there is another modification you'll need to know about.
pm me if you want more information.
Old 08-26-2020, 06:08 PM
  #1958  
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Default Tailpipe length

Originally Posted by icepilot
We had 2 sets that were sent here with the short pipes - that is wrong, and I believe you would melt or burn the tail cone with that setup.
I asked for (and got) 2 new, longer pipes that end only very close to the end of the cone.
Does anyone know the correct length for the tailpipe. I just purchased a new pipe from Skymaster for my K210 and it does not look long enough.

I have the turbine mounted all the way back to the former and it is as far back as it will go on the engine mounts. With a 25 mm distance from turbine to pipe the rear of pipe ends about 4” inches from the tear of the tailcone on the jet.

I know this can’t be correct. If anyone knows the actual length of the pipe (without the bell mouth) I would appreciate the help. The f16 is a G2 version.

Thanks, Gary
Old 08-26-2020, 06:48 PM
  #1959  
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Default Pipe length

I have the gen 3 and had the same and many more issues. I also had an issue with the bypass size as it would not fit between the engine rails. I modified the engine rails and used a BVM Ultra Bandit bypass that does not use a bell mouth. By doing this my pipe was now only short by 2 inches instead of 4 with the bell mouth. I lengthened the pipe the remaining 2 inches between the bypass and where the bell mouth was.
Old 08-28-2020, 05:51 PM
  #1960  
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fantastic model!
Old 10-28-2020, 05:47 PM
  #1961  
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I recently acquired a G1 in really good shape. Was planning on using a 160 Rhino, but now having second thoughts. Is 160 really enough? Not looking for unlimited verticals, Im happy doing inertial flying....but do need ro takeoff in 350-400ft. I will not use the top tank, and will be keeping it as light as possible.

Thanks!
David
Old 10-29-2020, 04:32 AM
  #1962  
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C'mon David you know yourself and F-16s better than that! A modern 200 weighs the same as an older 160 and is typically more efficient!
Old 10-29-2020, 05:37 AM
  #1963  
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Originally Posted by patf
C'mon David you know yourself and F-16s better than that! A modern 200 weighs the same as an older 160 and is typically more efficient!
I'm also a minimalist, and do have a strong Rhino 160 already. I would also prefer nothnot having to carry that giant top tank, which you would certainly have to with larger engine.

Like comparing an old F-16A with a modern block F-16. Modern has more umph........but the lighter A will draw circles around it. 😊
Old 02-08-2022, 03:29 AM
  #1964  
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Can the stabs on this be removed for transport. I am picking up a used one and I am trying to plan for bringing it home.
Old 02-08-2022, 05:35 PM
  #1965  
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The vertical stabs are NOT easily removed, the pivot clamp is accessed through the rear tunnel, and to get at it the pipe has to be removed, which means the turbine,center hoop, and bypass also have to be removed. Also you would need some kind of reference marks to re-align the stabs as the pivot shaft and blocks are smooth and not splined, so without reference marks your positions would be off. In a word, no it is not feasible to remove the horizontal stabs for transport, the new LARGER scale has direct drive controls and is designed to have the stabs removable, but on this 1/6 that’s not the case. I have built a stand to transport mine that cradles it, and keeps it in a position that the stabs can not hit. Another note on this model, when you transport it, make sure you support the nose , don’t let it hang un-supported,the one I have now is over 5 years old, and last year I noticed where the fuse halves bolt together there was some movement, the wood former had actually started splitting and causing that movement, I believe that was from transporting it all these years without supporting the nose, and the model bouncing in the trailer stressing that mount because it was unsupported, all the batteries and some weight are in the nose on mine. Just a helpful hint,,
Old 10-09-2022, 02:52 PM
  #1966  
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Cheers!
Desert Fox 1
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Old 10-10-2022, 02:11 AM
  #1967  
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Originally Posted by raron455
The vertical stabs are NOT easily removed, the pivot clamp is accessed through the rear tunnel, and to get at it the pipe has to be removed, which means the turbine,center hoop, and bypass also have to be removed. Also you would need some kind of reference marks to re-align the stabs as the pivot shaft and blocks are smooth and not splined, so without reference marks your positions would be off. In a word, no it is not feasible to remove the horizontal stabs for transport, the new LARGER scale has direct drive controls and is designed to have the stabs removable, but on this 1/6 that’s not the case. I have built a stand to transport mine that cradles it, and keeps it in a position that the stabs can not hit. Another note on this model, when you transport it, make sure you support the nose , don’t let it hang un-supported,the one I have now is over 5 years old, and last year I noticed where the fuse halves bolt together there was some movement, the wood former had actually started splitting and causing that movement, I believe that was from transporting it all these years without supporting the nose, and the model bouncing in the trailer stressing that mount because it was unsupported, all the batteries and some weight are in the nose on mine. Just a helpful hint,,
Sorry I meant Horizontal stabs, the vertical is easily removed with one clamp bolt.
Old 10-15-2022, 03:53 PM
  #1968  
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Cheers!
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Old 01-08-2023, 06:40 AM
  #1969  
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Helping out a friend on his F16. We cannot find any info on where the center position would be for the elevons. Can someone give us this info or measure theirs please?
Old 01-08-2023, 12:19 PM
  #1970  
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I have sent him the neutral if we are talking about the same guy....
Old 01-08-2023, 01:09 PM
  #1971  
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Originally Posted by MNModels
I have sent him the neutral if we are talking about the same guy....
Do you perhaps have the exact measurements?

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