Ian R

Hi

I am sure Shaun will chip in but for now my experience on my  two year old Yellow  F15 , the spring rate is fine.

Yes it worried me but as you will see they are kind of dual rate,  this makes the landings very forgiving even with a too fast landing the model does not bounce back in the air.

So unless you have something really heavy in it go with the standard set up it works

my 0.2c

Ian

dubd

Ian, are you using the foam tires? If so, are they holding up?

Ian R

Hi

no I changed them on build,

 I know Shaun says they last on his but I changed mine to Sullivan Skylites. They have lasted for two years so far

Ian

dubd

Did you replace the nose wheel too?

757Driver

My Feedback: (90)

I changed my springs to stronger coils but still dual rate. I like the idea. Also changed my gear to interairco....LOVE EM. Tires are high traction, don't flatspot and look great painted gloss white.

Ian R

hi

Did not change nose wheel still foam and seems to be wearing well, mains only changed.

still using original legs and retracts no so far issues

ian

757Driver

My Feedback: (90)

I'm also using original retracts and struts as they are very strong. I wish YA would take the time and offer this ARF with true scale rotating main gear as this would allow for a nice twin ducting and a simple center fuel tank where the turbine installs currently. I would have the turbines sit just aft of the aft gear bulkhead. This would also make the landing gear struts just a bit shorter and thats usually bennificial.

ianober

My Feedback: (12)

Ian, how did you secure the Skylites to the Yellow hubs? I am starting to assemble Dantley's F-15 and he wants the Skylites put on.

Ian R

Hi

Dremeled the inside of the skylight tire to a diameter just smaller than the hub. Degreased the hubs and applied a layer of Zaps zap a goo (think thats the name). when dry applied a small amount of thin zap around the rims on both side. just need to push the tire side wall back to get it to wick around. Never had an issue in two years

hope this helps

 Ian

ianober

My Feedback: (12)

Sounds good Ian, thanks. I will give that a shot.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

If you do that, you should reduce the amount of toe-in, as that will cause those tires to distort toward the yoke and rub.

ianober

My Feedback: (12)

I generally don't run any toe in on my jets anyways Shaun so shouldn't be an issue, but thanks for the tip.

Molnar142

My Feedback: (38)

Is there a build manual available?
Would like to know how the vertical stabs attach to the fuse at the lead edge....is there a pin or a bolt? I would also like to know how best to set up a latch mechanism for the top hatch.

Molnar142

My Feedback: (38)

Anyone?

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Are you building the ARF or the kit?

Molnar142

My Feedback: (38)

ARF version.

Thanks

Shaun Evans

Hi,

The ARF has some holes already drilled into the hard points (and corresponding plates) in the leading edge of the base of the fin. There's a titanium screw that goes up through the plate and into the leading edge base of the fin. That locates it and acts as an anti-rotaion.

bRandom

Hello I am building a Yellow F-15 (kit version that has been professionally built up to ARF status) and have a small list of construction questions so hopefully some of you are still linked to this thread haha. If you are still following this thread Shaun, hello... we spoke on the phone 5 or so months ago. I purchased this kit from Shaz on RCU. It is a beautiful kit and I am extremely pleased with it. I would call you, but I have been through a few cell phones lately and lost your contact. I figured I will probably not end up worrying too much about the automated cockpit... probably too much work to be worth the trouble really.
So here are some of my questions... and I will post some pics shortly also to give reference...
I am installing a jetcat P-140RX

1. The bypass (front opening with the curvy taper that goes around the intake openings) is substantially too small to fit around the opening, and would have to be flexed a considerable amount to fit around them. The intakes are more oval shaped and the bypass is perfectly round. Also, do I even need the bypass and what is a half bypass?

-Also wondering if the engine should be mounted a specific distance fore or aft, or if this can be adjusted for balancing purposes?

2. How do I affix the wing pylon mounts to the wings? I have been debating whether or not I even want these on the wings due to excess drag... but I guess they would be cool to have installed and then I could leave the ordinance off and still have the option to add it. The locations for the mounts are already drawn on the wings, so I wanted to figure this out before I prime and cover them up.

Well I guess I will start with those questions and see if anybody is still following this thread.

Thanks everyone! I will go take some pics now and post them...
Also if Shaun or anyone sees this and feels like chatting on the phone my # is (314)683-4564

bRandom

Here are various pics of the bypass etc.

bRandom

Also the instructions say to add plywood pieces to the turbine mount rail to bring the mounting height up to level with the ply mounting rails of the bypass pieces themselves. The plywood pieces supplied with the kit by the builder are the thickness of the 2 bypass mounting rails after they have been sandwiched together. This raises the turbine substantially above the center point of vertical center of the pipe bell opening and the intake center. Maybe the plywood pieces should only be the thickness of the bottom half of the bypass mounting plywood... I cut the notches in the turbine mount bracket to clear the fuselage plywood former as pictured in the next post, but this is with the supplied thick plywood mounting bracket "lifts" which as I said raise the turbine above center.

Eagle Driver

Hi Guys,

anyone out there have a NIB F-15 Arf for sale ?

Offers are welcome ... [email protected]

bri6672

My Feedback: (6)

The bypass is far from necessary for a 140, I have a k140 in mine and it has plenty of vertical and speed. As far as turbine location I would base that on your pipe, get the pipe in the fuselage and line it up then set the turbine on the rails and adjust it for the proper pipe gap and you should be good!

Shaun Evans

Hi,

You definitely want your engine centered in the pipe bell mouth. I don't remember building the rails up, though, on mine. Either way, adjust the engine or pipe until you've got it centered. You'll want the pipe to be inset into the tail cones an inch or so, and then leave about 3/4" from the exhaust cone on the engine to the front of the bell mouth.

I seem to recall that your wings already have hard-points for the pylons. Can you snap a pic? And yes, you'll LOVE those on there. They look so cool.

bRandom

Thank you guys bri and Shaun sooo much for your responses! I cant wait to get this thing going! It will be a lot easier not having to use the bypass. I will snap a bunch of photos tonight!

Shaun Evans

Hi,

OK, maybe there aren't hard-points there already. In that case, it's pretty easy. You can drill some holes and epoxy in some 1/2" dowels. Make sure they go all the way through the foam and against the top skin and flush with the bottom skin. That's what I did for my kit-built ones. It takes only a few minutes per wing and you'll have good, solid hard-points.