Craig B.

Thanks Al. Good to know. I think I will stick to the stock tanks for know as they do allow for a little clearance to run my lighting wires.

Craig.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Other than being maybe an ounce lighter, there's no benefit at all to having the kevlar tanks in there. The plastic tanks we offer for that bird slide right in, and they're VERY tough. In my experience with crashes (which I have a healthy amount of), the plastic tanks have always fared better than the kevlar ones.

My solution to the screw/blind nut problem was to drill the small holes (just big enough for my ball-driver to fit into) behind the rear nose-gear door. Also, I use socket-head sheet metal screws without blind nuts. I know, I know, the jet is going to burst into flames immediately on coming out of the car without machined screws and blind nuts but........

1. In the event of a catastrophic landing, I would much rather have the screws pull out than the gear plate;
2. There is no vibration to speak of (which is the main cause of the blind-nut cardinal rule of model-building) to loosen the screws;
3. The sheet metal/wood screw is going to burrow into its hole with much less likelihood of cross threading without having to have the screw and driver perfectly lined up (which is very difficult at the field);
4. The likelihood of accidentally pushing the blind-nut up and out of the gear mount (which is a 'pack it up and go home' moment) is reduced to zero;
5. The modification I do to reduce the spread of the struts (an 1/8" shim on the outer gear rail) practically makes it impossible to use a machined screw and blind nut AND;
6. While I've experienced screws backing out of blind nuts or mysteriously disappearing even though they're loctited, I've NEVER had a wood screw back out of the hardwood gear mounts.

I know there are some traditionalists out there shaking their heads and thinking, "No way--you never do that! You always use blind nuts!", but I tend to do what works time and time again. I'll post more pics later....

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

How about some photos of everyones inside set ups...

J.David

Hello! Pleased, where can I get replacement tires in hard ruber for the wheels of the F-15 Yellow?
The tires that came whit the plane are to much soft and broken in the first stopped.
Thanks
David Mazuecos

clguru

My Feedback: (5)

Charles has to come up with some better material for the tires!!
That is the only consistent complaint that I hear about this kit.

I have about five flights on my tires and they are pretty burned out.

Other than that I have nothing but praise for the Yellow F 15!!!!!!

Dan

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

Thanks

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Here's a couple of pics of the one I'm working on now....



I've painted the insides with BVM heatshield, then shot a little bit of black over it...

Shaun Evans

This is what the scale drop tank looks like under there....

Shaun Evans

This is the forward tray area with the valves and stuff positioned how I wanted them. Still a little tidying up to do before handing it over to my customer...

Shaun Evans

I took the scale centerline tank, cut it up and built it into a wet tank for smoke or extra fuel. It holds 33 ounces.

Shaun Evans

This is the tray that holds the canopy servo (underneath) and the receiver on top. Everything will get painted up before I hand it over...

Shaun Evans

This is the scale centerline pylon. It's designed to have the release mechanism installed inside of it, but since this one is connected to a wet tank, I decided to attatch the release directly to the fuselage and then bolt the non-weight-bearing pylon around it. Note the metal appointments...

Shaun Evans

This one is kind of blurry, but this is where I decided to install the fill-valves and guages.

grbaker

My Feedback: (29)

Shaun,

Do you stock the centerline tank and pylon? Also where's a good source for the cockpit kit.

You recommend going with the UP retract and door valves? I've always used standard retract valves with a sequencer in the past.

I'm finally fixin' to get back to work on mine.

reznor

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Shaun,

Mine is getting very close to completion. I am just fitting the batteries in the final position along with setting the CG. In a previous post you were discussing CG. Recommended is 7 1/4" back from the LE at the wing root. I believe I have seen people mention it go as far back as 7 3/4". I was thinking of starting at 7 1/2". What have you and others found to be optimal.

Mine is weighing in at 29.5 lbs all up with the centerline tank installed (no aux tank like yours which is pretty cool). Is that in the ballpark? Seems on the heavy side. The manual says 18 -20 lb which I don't see as being possible with the cockpit, paint, etc. I do have a Titan in there, which may have added a bit.

I appreciate any answers you can give me.

Ill try and get some more images posted up of my install when I get a moment. Motorcycle racing season starts in 2 weeks and I've been working on jets instead of bikes so I've gotten myself pretty busy all of a sudden.

Bill B.

Shaun Evans

Bill,

Try it at 7.5" and see how you like it. The test is whether or not you can hold the nose off when you touch down. This airplane is very tolerant of a wide CG range. 30 pounds does seem heavy. What all do you have in there? The good news is that it'll fly great at that weight and much more.

Gary,

We do stock the tanks and pylons. It's about $120 a pop for a tank/pylon setup. That includes the release mechanism which can either be remotely controlled or manually (like mine). I do like the Ultra Precision products. Once they're set up, they're pretty much a fire-and-forget affair. I'm glad you're gonna get back to work on yours!

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

Here are some assembly photos from my build. This is the front tray (removed from the fuse) with the Ultra Precision valves (UP2 & UP4) for the gear and the doors, the main battery and the steering servo.

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

Another one...this is the inside of the front fuse showing where all the airlines come together. I used a quick disconnect on every line so I can easily remove the front tray. No leaks!

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

Another one...just under the main canopy hatch showing my air fill lines and switch. The fill valves pull out for easy access at the field.

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

These are of the main compartment for the turbine, this one shows the airlines running from the gear and doors mounted to the floor and the UAT position. A Jet Central Super Eagle will power her (30 pounds thrust). I will have the Turbine installed by next weekend.

reznor

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Shaun,

Thanks for the CG info. I set it at 7.5".

There's nothing unusual in there. I did use a Power Box, Duralite Li Ion (RX)/Li Mag (ECU) and added the scale cockpit. I used some heavy-duty wiring when I built the servo leads; it’s the same stuff I use in my 35% aerobatic planes. Maybe that added to the weight. I am not too worried about it. I'm sure it's going to fly fine. Others must get close to that weight or over it with some of the scale functions, lights, etc. I see added.

I am not sure if I asked or not but do you have some tips for mounting the wing pylons, tanks and missiles?

Thanks for the help. It’s almost done!

Bill B.

reznor

My Feedback: (4)

Where do you get the brackets that are holding your air lines to the bottom of the fuse?

Thanks,

Bill B.

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

Dreamworks. I looked on their site but did not see them, just give Todd a call.

CFII1974

My Feedback: (5)

Lets not forget about the best part of a good set up.. the pay off.

Dave

Mr DJ

Bill

Your setup for the canopy is excellent—I will copy it to the T. But first, I see that you have a switch and three charging jacks behind the pilot tub—what are they for—please? If this is the main power switch, how do you open the canopy if the power is off—or do you leave it open once done flying?

Also, if you don’t mind, please tell me what you have and where you have it for all the plumbing inside the whole bird. I’ve had mind since Jan 07 and I’ve don’t nothing to it—trying to see as many setups as I can before digging in to it.

Components I’ve bought:

- Powerbox w/switch
- Three 4000mah lipos – 2 for powerbox and 1 for ECU
- Tamjets smoke system
- Nexus turbine
- 2 JR 8711s for elevators
- 6 JR 8611s for other
- 5 JR micros for retracts, canopy, bomb drops, brakes, other
- UAT
- Heat shielding cloth and paint
- Whip antenna
- More – can’t think of what else but more for sure

I’ve a ton of questions for you, but I’ll wait until we’ve established a rapport—if one is necessary for you to spill your guts…

But one last quick one—did you build a shield out of ply or balsa for the elevator servos to protect them for the heat of the pipe?

Many thanks…

Mr DJ